BruControl: Brewery control & automation software

[BrunDog]

Just can't inline combine them. Interpreter not that smart yet...

Try this:

new string stepMessage
new time timerDuration
timerDuration = 00:45:00
stepMessage = "Boiling for "
stepMessage += timerDuration
"System Step" Value = stepMessage

 

[DonWMason]

new string stepMessage
new time timerDuration
timerDuration = 00:45:00
stepMessage = "Boiling for "
stepMessage += timerDuration
"System Step" Value = stepMessage

That worked. Thanks.

 

[MightyOz]

Setting up SMTP for GMAIL wouldn't work until I got a password for 3rd party apps setup in my GMAIL account. I seem to chase after this solution time and time again as security keeps getting tighter all the time. I had no luck using my GMAIL account password to setup the SMTP in BruControl and after chasing many free SMTP services without luck I finally found a path to get GMAIL to let me use it with SMTP in BruControl.

Under my Account settings I went to Security menu item and found a "Signing in to Google" section where there is an item called "App passwords". When I hit this I had to log in with my Google account password which takes me to a page to generate an App password. I added BruControl under the custom item in the dropdown menu and hit the "GENERATE" button where I was given a unique password for use in BruControls GMAIL SMTP credentials password field. After that my email alerts worked without issue.

I may be the only one that got my butt kicked by what should be a simple process but the next time I forget how to do it at least I can come here to get my notes! LOL!

 

[BrunDog]

NICE!! Honestly we thought we were stuck without Gmail until we added OATH (different authentication which requires a different mail system).

 

[oakbarn]

Is there any way to concatenate a string and a time? I'd like to do something like:

new string stepMessage
new time timerDuration
timerDuration = 00:45:00
stepMessage = "Boiling for " + timerDuration
"System Step" Value = stepMessage

Producing "Counting down from 00:45:00". It errors on adding the time value to the string.

You may need more steps if doing a complicated string

new string vSMsg
new string vSMsg1
new string vSMsg2
new string vSMsg3
new string vSMsg4
vSMsg1 = "Blue Pump is ON. Vorlauf set for "
vSMsg2 = "HC_Votlauft" value
vSMsg3 = " then will Auto Advance."
vSMsg4 = " "
vSMsg = vSMsg1 + vSMsg2
vSMsg = vSMsg + vSMsg3
vSMsg = vSMsg + vSMsg4
"gblS_BrewMessageText1_B1" value = vSMsg
delete vSMsg
delete vSMsg1
delete vSMsg2
delete vSMsg3
delete vSMsg4

 

[WayFrae]

Hey everyone,

I have a Brucontrol UniShield MEGA and I have a panel I have been working on with all the high voltage stuff wired up and just has the low voltage stuff to go. I recently powered it up for the first time and got the first analog output calibrated.

Then today I was working on running the outputs to the relays. I used pins 14-17 with VD powered with 24v. I got that finished so I wanted to test it in Brucontrol and set up my elements. So I powered the panel up and immediately heard a pop and powered it down. At this point I saw smoke coming out around the VD bank on the UniShield. I decided to trace all my wires to the relays to make sure I didn't mess something up. Everything looked fine to me but I wanted to see if I had voltage coming into the outputs by mistake. So I unscrewed all the wiring to the relays but left the VD wire in. So at this point, only things that were working fine before were still plugged in. I powered it up again to measure voltage on those wires and more smoke came out around VD. I powered down again, unhooked VD, powered it up and measured 24.3v. VC and VD are powered by the same source. VC seems to be working fine.

Does anyone have any ideas what I did wrong? I think I'll need to buy another UniShield but before I do, I'd like to try and figure out where I went wrong so I don't burn up another board.

 

[BrunDog]

Sorry to hear that - no worries we'll get you right. Hard to say what happened but my guess is you accidentally connected a high voltage (above 5V) to one of the P pins. Once one of the driver chips has that voltage exceeded, it will be permanently damaged, and additional power application to the bank will cause it to overheat/smoke more.

When you say VC is working ok... are you driving other devices with it (for example, relays)? It's switching correctly via BruControl? In that case, if just VD is broken, perhaps you can just use VA, VB, VC and skip VD. Otherwise, if you send it back, we can work with you to replace that driver board.

 

[WayFrae]

Okay, that sounds like what must have happened. And yeah, VC seemed to be working fine to switch relays. I will test some more and see if I can just make it work with what I have left. Is the driver board easy to replace myself? Can I just order a new driver board or would it be best to send it back to you? I actually have a pending order with you right now so maybe we could combine shipping cost to get a new relay board.

 

[BrunDog]

We test everything before shipping, so better to send it back if you want to get it repaired.

 

[oakbarn]

Trying to find a reference to ports on a GC unishield. I have a google sheet that I think is correct but I wanted to be sure before I wired it up.

 

[BrunDog]

This, no?

https://brucontrol.com/wp-content/u...-Wiring-Map-Grand-Central-M4-v1.1-FW-v45E.pdf

 

[staffordj]

I need some plumbing/automation design help. My brother and I currently have a manual brew system that we are adding a RIMS tube to. The current setup is a large mash tun (40gal Rubbermaid w/ false bottom). This feeds two 15 gal BK's. In practice, we make two 10gal batches at a time and use various techniques to make two different beers from the same mash. One of the variables we use is adjusting the gravity by varying which pot the mash tun output is directed to. I would like to figure out a way to automate this. I was thinking that I could have two 2-way valves that each go to a brew kettle and I could have either one or both open to vary which kettle the wort goes to. This would require switching every few minutes at most (not sure if that is a problem for motorized valves).
Alternatively, I could have a 3-way, but then I could not discharge to both brew kettles at the same time if I just want the same gravity in each.
Also, for controlling the RIMS flowrate, are people using proportional valves?

 

[oakbarn]

RIMs = QuadZilla – BruControl

I would setup with 2 way valves (much less $$) at the outlet of each brew kettle. If it is closed, it effectivly has a hydrallic lock when you open the other one. US Solid has good ones:
https://ussolid.com/u-s-solid-motor...with-full-port-9-24-v-ac-dc-3-wire-setup.html
2 or less than one 3 way brass and this is a stainless one. I like the 3 wire so that you can leave them open between brews

 

[BrunDog]

Interesting! Several ways to skin this cat. As you mentioned, 2x 2-ways would give you the ability to direct to either or both BK’s. Shutting them both off makes sure you don’t drain the tub accidentally.

For the RIMs, you certainly need to control the flow. You can do this manually with a manual ball valve, or if you want to dynamically control the flow, you can use a proportional motorized ball valve.

If you tee these three together, that should give you wha you’re looking for.

 

[staffordj]

For those that use hard plumbed systems, how do you prevent mold growth in between brews? For my manual system, I use tubing and QD's and disassemble and store pots upside down and hang the tubing so it all dries. If you keep the system connected do you dry it somehow or sanitize it if you are not brewing for a while?

 

[RiverCityBrewer]

I recirculate saniclean and pack all the lines and hold it that way until the next brew day. To clear them I use gravity drains or gas purge.

 

[staffordj]

I am not a networking expert. I would like to understand what the "best practice" is for setting up Brucontrol for robust operation. I have wireless. Ethernet is a little more difficult, but I have a mesh wireless network, so I could move a node close enough to make an ethernet connection. The laptop is connected to wireless. I would also like to be able to remote in to check status if I am away from the brewery (just to check fermenters, not remote brewing). My system will be 2 or 3 vessel RIMS, 10gal batches. Fermenter with heater and glycol chiller. I have reviewed the info on BruControl website, but it is more of a laundry list of possible options, not a recommendation for the "best" solution. I am currently testing arduino mega connected via USB. So far it has been working on the bench well, but has not been tested with pumps, only a space heater and circuit testers.

 

[BrunDog]

I'd give the Wi-Fi a go if that's easiest to start. No doubt wired ethernet will be more robust, but possibly only incrementally so. Communications issues tend to be more related to the wiring system and EMI management more than connections. Also, if you lose occasional connectivity, it shouldn't matter much.

 

[staffordj]

So what board do you recommend?

 

[BrunDog]

I like the ESP32 Development Boards. Great mix of price, performance, expansion, etc.

 

[swimIan]

I like the ESP32 Development Boards. Great mix of price, performance, expansion, etc.

Do recommend certain ones? There are so many options on Amazon with differing amounts of pins too.

 

[BrunDog]

These are from Espressif directly:
Internal Antenna
External Antenna

 

[oakbarn]

For those that use hard plumbed systems, how do you prevent mold growth in between brews? For my manual system, I use tubing and QD's and disassemble and store pots upside down and hang the tubing so it all dries. If you keep the system connected do you dry it somehow or sanitize it if you are not brewing for a while?

We have had a hard plumbed manifod for years. We run PBW through all the manifold for at least an hour and then flush with water. We run 5 Star Sani-Clean for about 10 minutes, We again flush and then rinse with heated water, we drain everything and leave all valves in the open position. When we first started we checked the tubes regularly but never found any issues, We inspection maybe twice a year. When we started brewing we had one of those ball valves with bolts on a 10 gal Blickman BK. I decided that I should clean it. We had brewed with it over a year running many batches. It was gunky! We never had a "bad" brew but when we do inspect, I take the valves apart and clean them. Because of the cleaning we do, we have not found another gunky one.

You really need to very good about the Cold side.
Any valve on the cold side is always taken apart and boiled. We only use the easy to clean manual ball valve on the cold side. In our new manifold, there are no valves on the cold side as it is now all the inlet of the chiller and therefore "hot side".

 

[oakbarn]

So what board do you recommend?

How many widgets are you going to have now or in the future? In my mind, bigger is always better. The Mega has a lot of pins

If you compare the wiring Maps, you can see a Mega has many more:

Mega: https://brucontrol.com/wp-content/u...Wiring-Map-Arduino-MEGA-2560-v1.1-FW-v45E.pdf
ESP 32: https://brucontrol.com/wp-content/u...l-Interface-Wiring-Map-ESP32-v1.1-FW-v45E.pdf

The ESP 32 comes with Wifi. The Mega needs a shield, but if I was adding a shield, I would go Ethernet.

 

[BrunDog]

How would you feel about a proportional pinch valve? Either add your own tubing (normal silicone), or tri-clamp version? No cleaning ever needed, full flow, full control (2-way only obviously).

 

[swimIan]

I like this idea!

 

[staffordj]

How would you feel about a proportional pinch valve? Either add your own tubing (normal silicone), or tri-clamp version? No cleaning ever needed, full flow, full control (2-way only obviously).

Interesting, I don't think I have seen these before. The anvil foundry uses a manual one for the recirc loop. Do you have a link to one?

 

[BrunDog]

Not yet!

 

[backwoodsdistiller]

BrunDog,

Could you please explain your calibration setting for RTD's. How you obtained these numbers?
Linear Multiplier:
Linear Offset:
Resistance Temperature:

Thanks

 

[BrunDog]

Hi there. Not sure what calibration you’re referring to… but for RTDs there is only one calibration - it’s the reference resistor value. Usually it’s 430 or 400 ohms for Pt100 probes.

If you find those temperature results are inaccurate compared to a “gold standard”thermometer reading, you can add additional calibrations such as offset, multiplier, or lookup table. They are processed in order, so if you add an offset, then a multiplier, you’ll get different results than if you add a multiplier then an offset (recommended).

That said,to do it right, one should take readings along the whole range, starting with zero (ice slush bath). Record probe temp vs. gold temp all the way up to boiling. Then either enter data table entries for each, or load those values into a spreadsheetand do a regression. I think the data table is much easier, and it feels like this is an underutilized tool in BC.

 

[backwoodsdistiller]

Hi there. Not sure what calibration you’re referring to… but for RTDs there is only one calibration - it’s the reference resistor value. Usually it’s 430 or 400 ohms for Pt100 probes.

If you find those temperature results are inaccurate compared to a “gold standard”thermometer reading, you can add additional calibrations such as offset, multiplier, or lookup table. They are processed in order, so if you add an offset, then a multiplier, you’ll get different results than if you add a multiplier then an offset (recommended).

That said,to do it right, one should take readings along the whole range, starting with zero (ice slush bath). Record probe temp vs. gold temp all the way up to boiling. Then either enter data table entries for each, or load those values into a spreadsheetand do a regression. I think the data table is much easier, and it feels like this is an underutilized tool in BC.

Ok, I see the Reference Resistor on the amplifier board. So, if I need to adjust the temperature to match the gold standard temperature, do I change the Linear multiplier value? Or the Reference Resistor value. I noticed on one of your post, I seen you set the Linear Multiplier to 1.0015.

 

[BrunDog]

Don’t adjust the reference resistor value. Enter what it is. If the temp isn’t right from there, calibrate as I mentioned above. You can aggregate calibrations.

 

[oakbarn]

Wiring Scematic and other info about using a BruControl volume sensor ?

There are 3 wires
Red: VCC1
Yellow: GND
Blue: Out

Assume (for Mega)
Red: +12 vdc (can take up to 30 vdc)
Yellow:GND
Blue: Analog Pin (A0-A15) and ASSOCIATED Analog Port (100 -115) (0 to +5 vdc )

I did find the Calibration speadsheet and have downloaded it.

As an aside, has anyone tried an 90 degree Elbow between the sensor and the vessel? Since it measures pressure, I would not think it would make a difference except that you need to calibrate the way it is installed. I would pefer it vertical as it is on the end of a stand and sticks out less with an elbow.

 

[BrunDog]

Yes you have the wiring correct. However mounting that way is likely not a good idea, as liquid will be left in the Sensor when you are done, unless you take it off and clean it every time. I don’t really love that idea because the diaphragm is sensitive and disassembling to clean could run the risk of damaging it.

 

[oakbarn]

Could mount so that it drains every time. The elbow is slighty tilted where the elbow will fully drain.

This is an HLT so only water although this could be an Electric Brew Kettle if I ever turned to the dark side

It has 2 x 5500 watt Elements and a port where I could add a Steam Slayer (part of manual sight guage)

Laying out the frames for the stand!!!

 

[swimIan]

My pressure sensors are mounted on an elbow that’s turned up vertically. No issues to far. I make sure to clean and soak often though.

 

[BrunDog]

if you are going to have it upward, might as well have it fully vertical. The sensor diaphragm won’t actually get wet due to the air gap, but that should be ok. The only real issue I see with this is the sensor is going to get heat radiation from the hot vessel but it might now matter much.

 

[oakbarn]

I can add bubble wrap insulation to the HLT, I had my Mash Tun wrapped and never has issues with the wrap. I had also insualted with wrap a Chillzilla and it had 185 degree water run through it all the time. Might be good to have it vertical as the sensor wold never get wet! I can also wrap the sensor.

 

[BrunDog]

Maybe some sheet of insulation in between would do the trick... agreed. Peace of mind anyway.

 

[staffordj]

Hey BrunDog, what ever happened to the Unicon build? I checked out the videos, but it left me hanging.