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Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

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Is there a recommended mash thickness for these systems? I couldn't find anything in the documentation so was thinking about going with a 1.5qt per lb water/grist ratio.
What software are you using? I use Brewfather and I believe it's default for the v3.1.1 is 1.35 to 1. I have mine set at 1.25 and it works just fine. The ratio should likely be the same for the v4.

Your software probably has a profile for the 3.1.1 if not for the 4 and that would be a good starting point to find what works for you.
 
I'm using brewersfriend
Yeah, just looked at the robobrew profile and it doesn't have a figure in that box, it wants you to set it. I lowered mine to 1.25 because I wanted just a tad more water for the sparge. At 1.25 my mash is still soupy, I could likely go lower but it works for me so why mess with it.....
 
Is there a recommended mash thickness for these systems? I couldn't find anything in the documentation so was thinking about going with a 1.5qt per lb water/grist ratio.

Most people I've seen using the 4.0 use anywhere from 1.5-2.0.

On my 3.11 i use 2.0...I like to mash thin...if it was good enough for the early German brewers, it's good enough for me.
 
Just spotted a comment on the FB group that the U.S. 240V models could ship around end of October.
Saw that too... as someone said, I feel like a kid waiting for Christmas morning. I haven't been so excited about a new piece of brewing gear in 20 years.... then again I built my current setup nearly 22 years ago. But seriously, come on, I'm ready for my "will call road trip" to pick it up.
 
Just made my first batch using the Gen 4 yesterday. A simple SMaSH with Citra hops. The setup was simple enough but there was a severe facepalm moment right up top. Once the mash temp was reached, I put in the grains and only after 5 minutes realized that the malt pipe was sat outside in all its glory! Some transferring to other vats and retransferring later, the malt pipe was in and the grains (most of them at least) were in and mashing.

Once that was done, it seemed to be fairly smooth sailing the rest of the way through. I, again, made a bit of an unnecessary decision by cutting the 60 minute to a 30 minute boil. Not much harm done anyway (except that I harried myself a bit much in cutting those 30 minutes down and hence had to rush through sanitizing the fermenter and other stuff). In the end, it almost all worked out alright except for the OG which was 11 points below expected (1.042 vs 1.053). I am guessing the malt pipe mishap contributed to that.

Some observations:
1. The system is remarkably simple for someone who is trying an all-in-one system for the first time
2. The valve that turns the recirculation arm on and off (the blue one) turns fairly hot and so, handle with care (also wondering about longer term durability - only time will tell)
3. In spite of mashing for 5-10 minutes without a malt pipe (and the recirc arm on), the pump did not get clogged. The false bottom is indeed superb.
4. I did not mess around with the PID settings (but did turn the PID option on) and I saw some wild overshooting of the temp, and correction thereof. Kegland has a video out and David Heath has said he is going to release a video shortly. So, those are perhaps worth a watch.
5. A tremendously vigorous boil was reached when the temp showed 98 itself. I put the target temp at 100 but it never got beyond 98.5. I had the jacket on (and I live in a place where the ambient temp is 30-32c now, so that might have had an impact).
6. The profiles did not really work for me, or, at least, I did not really understand them. There is so much work to be done on the RAPT portal (and Kegland did say that they are working on the profiles and will even have a video to go with the firmware update soon - so, looking forward to that).
7. Cleaning was remarkably simple. With the new CIP rotor that is in the works, this should be even simpler.


In all, the brewday was brutally efficient and I hope that if I cut out those mistakes, it should be even more fun.
 

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Just made my first batch using the Gen 4 yesterday. A simple SMaSH with Citra hops. The setup was simple enough but there was a severe facepalm moment right up top. Once the mash temp was reached, I put in the grains and only after 5 minutes realized that the malt pipe was sat outside in all its glory! Some transferring to other vats and retransferring later, the malt pipe was in and the grains (most of them at least) were in and mashing.

Once that was done, it seemed to be fairly smooth sailing the rest of the way through. I, again, made a bit of an unnecessary decision by cutting the 60 minute to a 30 minute boil. Not much harm done anyway (except that I harried myself a bit much in cutting those 30 minutes down and hence had to rush through sanitizing the fermenter and other stuff). In the end, it almost all worked out alright except for the OG which was 11 points below expected (1.042 vs 1.053). I am guessing the malt pipe mishap contributed to that.

Some observations:
1. The system is remarkably simple for someone who is trying an all-in-one system for the first time
2. The valve that turns the recirculation arm on and off (the blue one) turns fairly hot and so, handle with care (also wondering about longer term durability - only time will tell)
3. In spite of mashing for 5-10 minutes without a malt pipe (and the recirc arm on), the pump did not get clogged. The false bottom is indeed superb.
4. I did not mess around with the PID settings (but did turn the PID option on) and I saw some wild overshooting of the temp, and correction thereof. Kegland has a video out and David Heath has said he is going to release a video shortly. So, those are perhaps worth a watch.
5. A tremendously vigorous boil was reached when the temp showed 98 itself. I put the target temp at 100 but it never got beyond 98.5. I had the jacket on (and I live in a place where the ambient temp is 30-32c now, so that might have had an impact).
6. The profiles did not really work for me, or, at least, I did not really understand them. There is so much work to be done on the RAPT portal (and Kegland did say that they are working on the profiles and will even have a video to go with the firmware update soon - so, looking forward to that).
7. Cleaning was remarkably simple. With the new CIP rotor that is in the works, this should be even simpler.


In all, the brewday was brutally efficient and I hope that if I cut out those mistakes, it should be even more fun.
As one that has simply dumped in my grains to my Mash Tun, I expect to make this same mistake once since I never had a malt pipe nor a bag... we learn from our pains.
The reduction of boil time probably has a big impact on your OG. With the 30-minute boil, did you adjust the hops to get the same/expected bitterness levels?

As for your observations: My only comment is about that valve. I actually missed that there was a valve there and had already thought to put a 3 piece ball valve there since I have spare parts to accommodate that currently. So maybe that's a mod/upgrade that can be looked into.
 
As one that has simply dumped in my grains to my Mash Tun, I expect to make this same mistake once since I never had a malt pipe nor a bag... we learn from our pains.
The reduction of boil time probably has a big impact on your OG. With the 30-minute boil, did you adjust the hops to get the same/expected bitterness levels?

As for your observations: My only comment is about that valve. I actually missed that there was a valve there and had already thought to put a 3 piece ball valve there since I have spare parts to accommodate that currently. So maybe that's a mod/upgrade that can be looked into.
Ha ha. Touche. I am used to dumping grains in my mash tun as well. Guess old habits die hard. And on that note, I am wondering if we can just leave the malt pipe in when the heating to mash temp is happening. In theory I do not see a problem with it but I have not really seen any videos where they do this.

Also, re. the valve, should look into a mod. At this point, it does not seem like plastic-melting-off levels of hot but still at the not-nice-to-touch level hot.
 
Sure can!
Well, that solves for human (read: my) stupidity then! The only potential issue I was thinking of was maybe some heat dissipation / retention issues in the small area between the malt pipe and the brewery's walls but perhaps I am overthinking it! Thank you, this is excellent news!
 
There could be plenty of reasons for that efficiency drop. But at least next brew you'll eliminate one potential.
I fill my all in one to my target volume. Put the malt pipe in and then the salts, recirculate and at strike temp dough in.

Check list helps a lot.

I only used to put the false bottom in my robobrew 3 after the sparge and don't have one at all in the guten.
 
Ha ha. Touche. I am used to dumping grains in my mash tun as well. Guess old habits die hard. And on that note, I am wondering if we can just leave the malt pipe in when the heating to mash temp is happening. In theory I do not see a problem with it but I have not really seen any videos where they do this.

Also, re. the valve, should look into a mod. At this point, it does not seem like plastic-melting-off levels of hot but still at the not-nice-to-touch level hot.
You not only can, but you should. That way the malt pipe is at strike temp instead of room temp and doesn't suck any heat out of your water.
 
You not only can, but you should. That way the malt pipe is at strike temp instead of room temp and doesn't suck any heat out of your water.
That makes sense! Thank you. Will do.


Have you guys here played around with the PID settings? I typically brew only 10L (2.5G) batches. Is there a setting that has worked for anyone here?
 
From my experience of " playing around " with a PID on my brew system it's tricky. If I strove for perfection I'd never get any beer made.
Fair enough but there should be some solution for the wild overshooting, no? For instance, my mash temp was set for 65 but it went to 72 and then came down.
 
@amr

I think there is a design issue that is contributing to the brewzilla gen 4 problem. Not unusual for a kegland product have to evolve rapidly under user experience.


I did see this video but it didn't register that this might well be the thing. Interesting. Thank you,
 
With my 240V Anvil 10.5 I definitely use different power settings for each stage.
100% heat-up, 65% Mash, 75% Mash-out, 90% heat-to-boil, 65% boil for 90mins.
Likewise when distilling (100% to 55C at head, 60% after that)
 
The Gen4 shipped yesterday! Now not too sure I'll be brewing yet this weekend. Had a failure with stepping up old Bells yeast. Ended up sacrificing a 6 pack of Bells for "science" over the weekend and am trying to culture up yeast from that. Also started WLP029 from the freezer stash this morning in hopes one of these strains takes off and is ready to brew by the weekend. Now that's miniscule depending on where Hurricane Ian ends up. We're all in wait and see mode right now as we're in FL but right outside the cone as of now.

Anywho I wrote the above yesterday. The WLP029 is showing major signs of life as of this morning. Bells not so much. Will probably end up moving the Bells yeast off the stir plate and into a jar or something to let it ferment out. Will probably just go the lazy way with this one for the time being. Guess it'll be Brulosophers Best Blonde Ale for the maiden voyage! Interesting mention of the Diversion plate. That and the insulation kit (both for the pump pipe...Whatever that's called...and the unit itself) are on the to do list as soon as they're available on Morebeer. May eventually invest in the wireless bluetooth Rapt thermometer but as of now I just want to learn the system :)
 
@amr
I watched the video again.
Is that bottom plate needed during the mash? Not having it there until boil might be the answer.
Do you mean the false bottom? I'm fairly certain it is necessary to ensure that particles that escape the malt pipe do not clog the pump. At least the videos I saw all started with putting the false bottom in first. Though you do raise an interesting point!
 
Just got through Brewzilla gen4. Is it extremely hard to clamp down the lid? My clamps seem like they sit a bit low and I'm afraid of busting the lid. Ran through a water only batch tonight to get a feel for things. The 120 volt 9.25 gallon has around a .5 gallon per hour boil off.
 
Just got through Brewzilla gen4. Is it extremely hard to clamp down the lid? My clamps seem like they sit a bit low and I'm afraid of busting the lid. Ran through a water only batch tonight to get a feel for things. The 120 volt 9.25 gallon has around a .5 gallon per hour boil off.
At what part of the process are you trying to clamp down the lid? I never once did it and it was totally fine. I think the clamps are primarily given to accommodate the boil extender attachment. In your normal brewday, just placing the lid on top is good enough, I think (on that note, the lid does fit very snug and so, that is good in itself).
 
Just got through Brewzilla gen4. Is it extremely hard to clamp down the lid? My clamps seem like they sit a bit low and I'm afraid of busting the lid. Ran through a water only batch tonight to get a feel for things. The 120 volt 9.25 gallon has around a .5 gallon per hour boil off.
The clamps are there only for using a metal lid for a still as far as I know. I have a 3.1.1 and I don't clamp my lid....
 
Can confirm that the clamps work fine with a metal lid. I used to use the metal lid from the turboboiler which was my sparge water heater and it fitted perfectly.
Regarding the bottom plate I stopped using it in my robobrew 3 and just used the trubtrapper which I dropped in after the sparge. Didn't have any problems with pump blocking that way. Only troubles with pump blocking are if you leave the recirc pipe on top of the grain bed and turn the pump off it then siphons grain back up the pipe. You soon learn.
 
At what part of the process are you trying to clamp down the lid? I never once did it and it was totally fine. I think the clamps are primarily given to accommodate the boil extender attachment. In your normal brewday, just placing the lid on top is good enough, I think (on that note, the lid does fit very snug and so, that is good in itself).
I was looking at it more for storage/transportation purposes. Meaning a way to hold the lid on when moving the unit around when empty. The pictures on morebeer show the clamps holding the glass lid down. Outside of that if it's just for the boil extender or other accessories I can definitely live with it :)
 
I just use the handles on the side when empty.
More than rigid enough without the lid on. It won't deform.
It's not that. I just thought it could be used to hold the lid on when moving the whole unit. Would hate for the lid to fall off, and bust, when I'm moving the unit across the house and such. But it's just a minor complaint if that lol If anything it's just me as the consumer not understanding the product. Can't wait until the first brew day this weekend!
 
Make two trips and carry the lid separately.
But I did notice that lid size was same as many large pans. Our recycling shop at rubbish tip had loads that size.
Metal as well, but metal ones not gasketed as the turbo boiler lid is.
 

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