Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

[Pan_Kotsky]

You might wanna try the whirlpool arm and just toss in the hops. I migrated from a hop spider to getting an HED and whirlpool arm and was pleased with the improvement. (Less hops / more flavor)

Well, I am a bit hesitant about the whirlpool arm due to unorthodox brewing methods I use. First, I am boiling with the lid on and drop in my immersion chiller about 15 mins before the end. I have a giant 50' stainless steel chiller that would be in the way of the arm. In addition, I am afraid the arm won't fit with two 12l extensions.

 

[Willy]

Well, I am a bit hesitant about the whirlpool arm due to unorthodox brewing methods I use. First, I am boiling with the lid on and drop in my immersion chiller about 15 mins before the end. I have a giant 50' stainless steel chiller that would be in the way of the arm. In addition, I am afraid the arm won't fit with two 12l extensions.

Good points and valid concerns. I use an IC in the kettle with the whirlpool and I wondered if it would work as well. It worked fine. Phew.

The whirlpool arm could easily be modified to extend down an extra few inches if needed but I think it would be pretty easy to make a whirlpool arm that fits the collar.

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

The whirlpool arm could easily be modified to extend down an extra few inches if needed but I think it would be pretty easy to make a whirlpool arm that fits the collar

Well, I guess it will be the next upgrade as I've already spent all my beer money for the next 6 months or so and my dear wife is already mentioning a cot in a dog house.

 

[theredviper]

Just had a similar meltdown on my Gen4 last night. It's my 70th brew on it and no complaints but I have noticed the plug getting hot from time to time (on max boil of course). However last night was something else as I could definitely smell something burning. The brew completed fine but I feared the worst.

I took off the panel below and no damage to the circuit board, just a little on the heat shrink around the connectors as the other user saw above. I suspect some spilled wort (nobody's perfect!) may have been the root cause that got worse over time. I brew exclusively indoors.

However the cord was either melted or otherwise stuck in the socket so I had to get the whole thing out and will replace both.

I guess my question is like the others: any way to prevent this in the future? If somebody hardwires a solution I'd love to see the results. In the meantime I have ordered replacement parts. At least they are generic and relatively cheap.

I don't detach the cord after every use just because I don't want the wear out or loosen the contact from usage.

 

[rtstrider]

Just had a similar meltdown on my Gen4 last night. It's my 70th brew on it and no complaints but I have noticed the plug getting hot from time to time (on max boil of course). However last night was something else as I could definitely smell something burning. The brew completed fine but I feared the worst.

I took off the panel below and no damage to the circuit board, just a little on the heat shrink around the connectors as the other user saw above. I suspect some spilled wort (nobody's perfect!) may have been the root cause that got worse over time. I brew exclusively indoors.

However the cord was either melted or otherwise stuck in the socket so I had to get the whole thing out and will replace both.

I guess my question is like the others: any way to prevent this in the future? If somebody hardwires a solution I'd love to see the results. In the meantime I have ordered replacement parts. At least they are generic and relatively cheap.

I don't detach the cord after every use just because I don't want the wear out or loosen the contact from usage.

That was me! Kegland recommended I contact my vendor (morebeer) and they sent a replacement even out of warranty. May want to reach out to your vendor for a replacement.

 

[theredviper]

That was me! Kegland recommended I contact my vendor (morebeer) and they sent a replacement even out of warranty. May want to reach out to your vendor for a replacement.

A whole new unit? Feels like overkill and I've already ordered the replacement parts for ~$20. Although I see yours took more damage than mine.

 

[Barão]

I'm going to sell my BZ gen 4... I transfer to the fermenter through the tap . it clogs every time... What am I doing wrong?

 

[theredviper]

I'm going to sell my BZ gen 4... I transfer to the fermenter through the tap . it clogs every time... What am I doing wrong?

Do you use a hop spider? Rice hulls? Grain crush size?

I transfer with the recirc pump myself, never had a problem.

 

[Redhouse Brewing]

Does the false bottom fit tightly so there’s no space for trub to get by? I had this problem with my 3.1 and I bought the heavy duty false bottom and now it never clogs.

 

[Barão]

Do you use a hop spider? Rice hulls? Grain crush size?

I transfer with the recirc pump myself, never had a problem.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/thread...ussion-tips-talk.702436/page-34#post-10399679

 

[Barão]

Does the false bottom fit tightly so there’s no space for trub to get by? I had this problem with my 3.1 and I bought the heavy duty false bottom and now it never clogs.

false bottom well attached...it's even difficult to remove after using the machine

 

[Pan_Kotsky]

I'm going to sell my BZ gen 4... I transfer to the fermenter through the tap . it clogs every time... What am I doing wrong?

How is your pump plumbed? Maybe snap some pics and post here (pump, false bottom, crush size etc.)? In over a dozen of batches I never experienced clogs like that.

 

[agentbud]

How is your pump plumbed? Maybe snap some pics and post here (pump, false bottom, crush size etc.)? In over a dozen of batches I never experienced clogs like that.

Me neither. Maybe a little slow to drain through the grain basket when using flaked stuff but never a clog in the pump or tap.

 

[ntempleton]

Sorry everyone if this has been answered. I've read most of the 35 pages, but I might have missed this.

I'm curious what the max OG of a 11-12 gallon, no sparge batch in a Gen4 65L? It looks like from the information that I can find that I should be able to get in the mid 1.040s, but if anyone has direct experience, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!

 

[mashdar]

Disclaimer

Sorry everyone if this has been answered. I've read most of the 35 pages, but I might have missed this.

I'm curious what the max OG of a 11-12 gallon, no sparge batch in a Gen4 65L? It looks like from the information that I can find that I should be able to get in the mid 1.040s, but if anyone has direct experience, I would really appreciate it.

Thanks!

Disclaimer: I have the 35L. ymmv.

65L claims 41.5lbs capacity. Assuming 37lbs is a comfortable number (no evidence, just assuming the max is optimistic), 70% efficiency, 35ppg grain bill:

37*35*0.7/12 = 75.5

So I would expect the 65L to top 1.070 OG readily for a 12 gallon batch.

edit: for no sparge, if efficiency is 60%, you'd still be over 1.060

edit2: oh, is the issue vessel volume when grain competes for space? I don't have math for that. Looking around, it sounds like crush matters. Some sources say 0.36qt/lb, but I don't know if that includes the 0.125qt/lb lost water.

edit3: more reading says that's a wet volume, so, if the 67qt vessel can be filled to 60qt (?? pipe holes may wreck this), 12 gallons of pre-boil wort leaves space for 33lbs of grain, or 1.058 at 60% efficiency.

I still think 1.050 is totally reasonable.

 

[DuncB]

I reckon you'll get much lower efficiency than 70%

 

[triker]

Bad termination on that spade connector, then? A low impedance connector does not melt itself

I had to make this repair recently. It did look like bad termination. The melt pattern on the C14 connector was the same on the front and the back, so it was hard to say which side had the bad connection. With enough tugging I was able to get the cord out, but both the cord and the socket were a lost cause. When installing the new panel connector I carefully tightened up the wire disconnect terminals with pliers before pushing them onto the back tabs. One brew in, no problems. Fingers crossed.

(Trying to double-check if I had the right name for the connectors, I bumped into another of life's mysteries - why is a connector that looks like a fork called a spade connector, which then apparently relegates connectors that looks like spades to being called disconnect terminals.)

 

[erikn68]

I am thinking of getting the gen4 65 L. But I would like to know the quality of the pump. Since it has set sports to connect underneath, I don't think I can use my current pump. I currently have the stainless steel riptide.

Any comment would be nice.

 

[Willy]

I am thinking of getting the gen4 65 L. But I would like to know the quality of the pump. Since it has set sports to connect underneath, I don't think I can use my current pump. I currently have the stainless steel riptide.

Any comment would be nice.

I have the 35L - pump works great, and has not clogged with over 25 batches logged.
I do use the bottom plate add-on which did wonders as a hop catcher. Previously I used a hop spider, but no more ... Just toss them into the boil... At 10 minutes left I whirlfloc (1 tablet) and whirlpool. The HED (heat exchanger disc) is awesome and whirlpooling really helps. There's much less likelihood of clogging is you ensure more of the debris is caught before it has a chance to clog.

 

[Willy]

I am thinking of getting the gen4 65 L. But I would like to know the quality of the pump. Since it has set sports to connect underneath, I don't think I can use my current pump. I currently have the stainless steel riptide.

Any comment would be nice.

Make sure you get the HED for the bottom and the whirlpool arm. Both of those accessories made a huge difference for me. I use the 35L and had no issues with clogging after getting the HED (heat exchanger disk) and the whirlpool arm.

 

[mashdar]

I am thinking of getting the gen4 65 L. But I would like to know the quality of the pump. Since it has set sports to connect underneath, I don't think I can use my current pump. I currently have the stainless steel riptide.

Any comment would be nice.

The 35L uses a 1/2" ID silicone tubing to connect everything. If you remove the spigot (and add a grommet/bushing!) you coud get at least one tube out, maybe a return in. (Second tube most likely requires punching another hole in the sheet metal.)

The integrated pump is tiny - if you're similar expecting your gpm/head vs a riptide, you'll be disappointed.

 

[stealthfixr]

Not sure if Kegland is watching this or not, but I am looking for a synopsis of software updates that the machine auto downloads.

The reason why I ask is that I went to brew two days ago, and the 65L Gen4 downloaded an update. Following this update, the way the PID worked changed and significant P value tinkering was needed to make mash step jumps. I brew every two weeks, so I know how the previous setup was working, and it was stable & effective before this update.

It would be nice to get a heads-up on updates and what they are affecting.

 

[P_Bio]

Thanks everyone for this thread. I just ordered a 110V 35L Gen 4 and while waiting for it to arrive, read through the entire 35 pages!

I'm excited to start calibrating it. Sounds like there have been some significant improvements from the original release and I do like that KegLand continues to engage and innovate.

I look forward to sharing my experience as well. Cheers!

 

[DuncB]

Thanks everyone for this thread. I just ordered a 110V 35L Gen 4 and while waiting for it to arrive, read through the entire 35 pages!

I'm excited to start calibrating it. Sounds like there have been some significant improvements from the original release and I do like that KegLand continues to engage and innovate.

I look forward to sharing my experience as well. Cheers!

15 pages here for you to read whilst you wait.

https://www.thehomebrewforum.co.uk/threads/brewzilla-gen-4-advice-and-experiences.103328/

 

[P_Bio]

Well, it arrived! And I already have a leak right out of the box. I bought my model from More Beer and I was surprised to see it came with the sight glass, which I thought was optional. When I run the pump and use the ball valve to control any flow, I get a leak out of the top of the sight glass, probably because of the back pressure. But from my understanding, I will need to control the flow using this valve all throughout the brew days, so I can't just have wort constantly leaking on me. Anyone else have this issue? It looks like a plastic compression fit for the sight glass, so maybe try and take it out and try and wrap some teflon tape on it to create better compression?

 

[mashdar]

I thought the sight glass was a gen 3-only thing. I do see references to gen 3 & 4 sight glass on the KegLand website, though. Are you sure you got a gen 4?

 

[P_Bio]

I thought the sight glass was a gen 3-only thing. I do see references to gen 3 & 4 sight glass on the KegLand website, though. Are you sure you got a gen 4?

I mean everything else about is it Gen 4. Upper controller, wifi, Bluetooth, etc. Box says Gen 4.

Edit to add: I took it apart and it's a completely dry fit. Should there be an O ring in there? I might go and try and buy one to fit. That should most likely solve the issue.

 

[IrondaleBrewing]

I thought the sight glass was a gen 3-only thing. I do see references to gen 3 & 4 sight glass on the KegLand website, though. Are you sure you got a gen 4?

Sight glass is now standard on the Gen 4.1. I recently got a 65L and it came with the sight glass and an upgraded (25W) pump.

 

[P_Bio]

Nevermind. I fixed it. I took apart the insert that was screwed into the ball valve and put some teflon tape on the threads. Looks like the leak was coming through that part. All good now, looking forward to my first brew!

 

[razzzzer]

The gen 4 I bought doesn't have the half way feet... trying to find out if there is a diy way to add them?
They don't come on the US models?
Thanks