Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

[Willy]

I actually just did this over the weekend.

Yes, I created a profile with 2 steps:
First step (Wait):
- Step Type: Heat/Cool to target temperature
- Target Temperature: 55 degF
- Go to next step when: the step timer is finished
- Start the step timer: as soon as the step starts
- Step Duration: N hours ({time you want heating to mash to to start} - {time you will start this profile})
Second Step (Mash temp):
- Step Type: Heat/Cool to target temperature
- Target Temperature: {mash temp}
- Go to next step when: the target temperature is reached

Over the weekend I wanted heating to start at 4:30am, so I started the profile at 9:30pm the night before and set N in the first step to 7 hours

Cool. Thanks for confirming, I thought it might work like a charm.

 

[jdubdvdt]

Thank you so much! I've never actually seen the Brewzilla in action, so trying to picture the size/weight/way to lift out the malt pipe, etc. I didn't realize you were in Ocala, or else I would have bothered you to see if I can stop by sometime to see it (I'm up north now). I do much better when I see something in person vs videos and descriptions. I have a lot of miscellaneous parts for sure- and I like the idea of using the CFC too (I have a couple of March pumps laying around that I could bring into the picture if I want). Although up north, my tap water is really cold vs when I"m in Florida and it's pretty hot just coming out of the tap. I'm thinking of just doing small BIAB batches in Florida with a banjo burner and maybe an immersion chiller (of course, I have one of those laying around too), and then the Brewzilla up north.

Thank you again for all the thoughts on this.

Yoop, I brewed a few more times since I posted previously. I think there is a little bit of a faux-pas with the malt pipe on the Brewzilla Gen 4. They removed the middle set of feet and now you either need the pulley system to sparge (depending on mash thickness and bed compaction). I did a mixture of batch and fly sparging last time because the perforated sides were causing it to spray out of the kettle. This is possibly user error, it happened in two different brews and I was pretty upset over it. A pulley might be a good option for you... the middle feet on the previous model allowed you to lift it up halfway, do some sparging and then go the rest of the way. I guess there was a cease and desist order regarding the feet. I am glad I don't have the 65L because that would be a PITA.

I would recommend you consider a pulley system even at a 35L because of this. "We ain't gettin younger"

In the latest update we have updated the network libraries that are used to connect the device to wifi. We still have some older stock in circulation with older network libraries that have more connectivity bugs. So now that the firmware is updates I think you will find future updates easier.

The previous version may have had more issues with mesh networks with multiple routers/APs. Just out of interest do you have a mesh network?

A lot of the new routers and modems have a bunch of undesirable features for "dumb devices" as I call them. Sometimes you need to split the WiFi band into 2.4GHz and 5GHz bands separately and other times you have to disable features that streamline traffic such as QoS. I have had similar issues with my sous vide, digital picture frames, and cheap gadgets.

Mesh networks and whatnot sometimes are a pain too, user friendly for the average consumer, but pretty weak compared to using a true AP that is wired.

 

[Yooper]

Yoop, I brewed a few more times since I posted previously. I think there is a little bit of a faux-pas with the malt pipe on the Brewzilla Gen 4. They removed the middle set of feet and now you either need the pulley system to sparge (depending on mash thickness and bed compaction). I did a mixture of batch and fly sparging last time because the perforated sides were causing it to spray out of the kettle. This is possibly user error, it happened in two different brews and I was pretty upset over it. A pulley might be a good option for you... the middle feet on the previous model allowed you to lift it up halfway, do some sparging and then go the rest of the way. I guess there was a cease and desist order regarding the feet. I am glad I don't have the 65L because that would be a PITA.

I would recommend you consider a pulley system even at a 35L because of this. "We ain't gettin younger"

Thank you- I felt like I was crazy with everybody else telling me that the liquid couldn't come out of the sides......because it sure did, even as I was lifting it up to get on the 'feet'. It wasn't a lot, but it was enough for me to not to want to pour more liquid into it, unless I poured right now the middle and that really wasn't going to be very efficient. I was very disappointed that the easier lifting and the sparging was impacting by removing those middle feet. I probably will have to rig up a pulley, but I have an old house with a drop ceiling so it won't be all that easy. Even with only 10 pounds of grain, the first part of lifting the grainbasket up was not super easy but the last few inches were really tough as its up over my neck level when lifting the handle.

I wish there was an option to get the older version of the malt pipe, but I understand why. It's still annoying though!

 

[mashdar]

You might inquire with a local welding shop?

 

[jdubdvdt]

You might inquire with a local welding shop?

I am looking into it. I have a MIG, but not a TIG so I don't want to do it. TIG welding something and telling them it needs to be food grade would be pretty expensive. I would venture to say it would be alright if not. Other option I am considering is a set of feet that are riveted on. Who cares if the rivets leak, they won't be leaking once you lift the malt pipe up a few inches.

Will make sparging a lot safer. I lost a lot of efficiency when the grain bed was compacted improperly. Need to figure it out since it has happened 2 out of 3 brews on the new system. The first one I had no issues, but it was the same grain bill as the third one. Who knows.

Regarding the pulley system I think it would be pretty easy to rig together a gantry with gate hinges/sliding pins so you can break it down when not using it. I might consider that, but riveting might be the correct option.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Wait, when did they take away the middle feet???

My local retailer still shows them on their shop

 

[jdubdvdt]

Wait, when did they take away the middle feet???

My local retailer still shows them on their shop

Not sure, but it is specifically listed as not having two sets of feet on MoreBeer and a few other websites. I would definitely be interested in the two stage malt pipe if anyone has one that does BIAB.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Not sure, but it is specifically listed as not having two sets of feet on MoreBeer and a few other websites. I would definitely be interested in the two stage malt pipe if anyone has one that does BIAB.

Strange. On my suppliers site (Austrian) it specifically lists it as a feature!

Perhaps this is a US issue?

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Available on Ali express but shipping is a killer

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003943958723.html

 

[jdubdvdt]

Strange. On my suppliers site (Austrian) it specifically lists it as a feature!

Perhaps this is a US issue?

Yes, I believe it is US only. Some sort of patent, but I am not sure who they were copying. Haven't really looked into it, but it is a damn shame without it. Honestly I would say that people should not buy it until this issue is resolved.

 

[jdubdvdt]

Available on Ali express but shipping is a killer

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003943958723.html

With the two sets of feet it does not show with perforations in that one. It is definitely a faux pas with the perforations and only one set of feet.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

With the two sets of feet it does not show with perforations in that one. It is definitely a faux pas with the perforations and only one set of feet.

Whoops, looked like I linked to the gen3 version

 

[Willy]

Thank you- I felt like I was crazy with everybody else telling me that the liquid couldn't come out of the sides......because it sure did, even as I was lifting it up to get on the 'feet'. It wasn't a lot, but it was enough for me to not to want to pour more liquid into it, unless I poured right now the middle and that really wasn't going to be very efficient. I was very disappointed that the easier lifting and the sparging was impacting by removing those middle feet. I probably will have to rig up a pulley, but I have an old house with a drop ceiling so it won't be all that easy. Even with only 10 pounds of grain, the first part of lifting the grainbasket up was not super easy but the last few inches were really tough as its up over my neck level when lifting the handle.

I wish there was an option to get the older version of the malt pipe, but I understand why. It's still annoying though!

I have considered putting in 4 small 90° angle brackets to allow for sparging without the malt pipe all the way removed. Basically just weld them on or you can drill and use small screws to fix it in place.

It was supposed to have this feature but they got sued by someone. Kinda stupid... Doesn't seem to be a patent worthy idea as much as common sense.

 

[jdubdvdt]

I have considered putting in 4 small 90° angle brackets to allow for sparging without the malt pipe all the way removed. Basically just weld them on or you can drill and use small screws to fix it in place.

It was supposed to have this feature but they got sued by someone. Kinda stupid... Doesn't seem to be a patent worthy idea as much as common sense.

You could do the bolt in method, but then you'd have a place where you'd leak a bit and a place where mold may grow. Rivets would leak less, but require you to have a rivet gun. Weld in is the best method, but expensive to pay someone to do it. If I had a TIG machine (and could TIG weld at all), I would do it myself and not worry about the food gradeness of it. Most welders aren't going to do a job like that for too cheap, not a simple buzz box weld.

I am considering the rivet option, but I'd still want something liquid tight so I don't get junk growing.

 

[jdubdvdt]

I have considered putting in 4 small 90° angle brackets to allow for sparging without the malt pipe all the way removed. Basically just weld them on or you can drill and use small screws to fix it in place.

It was supposed to have this feature but they got sued by someone. Kinda stupid... Doesn't seem to be a patent worthy idea as much as common sense.

First quote I got for welding 4 tabs on was $450. Almost the cost of a whole new unit. I'm tempted to just drill holes and use bolts that I'll remove after each brew.

Kind of silly.

 

[Yooper]

With the two sets of feet it does not show with perforations in that one. It is definitely a faux pas with the perforations and only one set of feet.

Yep. It leaks like a sieve. Great for recirculation I guess, but not so great for trying to sparge when all of the holes are above the only set of 'feet' and all way above the body of the Brewzilla. I'm going to try to pull the malt pipe up a bit, hold it a bit, then pull it all the way up. Then when it's done draining, move it to a bucket or cooler and 'batch sparge' that way. Definitely no longer an 'all-in-one' so I am very disapppointed. For me, the whole idea was to downsize to an all-in-one. Now I have to have two vessels, pour wort back and forth, and also have a third vessel for the sparge water.

Tell me again why I got an all-in-one that requires three vessels..... UGH. I know. Price. The others are more expensive, but since this Brewzilla is fairly chintzy anyway, now I know. It's lightweight, thin, with an anemic pump and a useless "whirlpool arm" (optional but really not functional). The additional add-on, the CIP spray ball is ok, but when you connect it to the additonal add-on, the adjustable arm, it leaks so much that it sprays your wall better than the interior of the vessel.

Overall, it's "ok" especially for those who already have a chiller and don't need the one that is included and useless. It does boil wort. It does have a PID. It's got a small footprint. That's all the good things I can say at this point.

 

[Willy]

Yep. It leaks like a sieve. Great for recirculation I guess, but not so great for trying to sparge when all of the holes are above the only set of 'feet' and all way above the body of the Brewzilla. I'm going to try to pull the malt pipe up a bit, hold it a bit, then pull it all the way up. Then when it's done draining, move it to a bucket or cooler and 'batch sparge' that way. Definitely no longer an 'all-in-one' so I am very disapppointed. For me, the whole idea was to downsize to an all-in-one. Now I have to have two vessels, pour wort back and forth, and also have a third vessel for the sparge water.

Tell me again why I got an all-in-one that requires three vessels..... UGH. I know. Price. The others are more expensive, but since this Brewzilla is fairly chintzy anyway, now I know. It's lightweight, thin, with an anemic pump and a useless "whirlpool arm" (optional but really not functional). The additional add-on, the CIP spray ball is ok, but when you connect it to the additonal add-on, the adjustable arm, it leaks so much that it sprays your wall better than the interior of the vessel.

Overall, it's "ok" especially for those who already have a chiller and don't need the one that is included and useless. It does boil wort. It does have a PID. It's got a small footprint. That's all the good things I can say at this point.

Had a similar experience and equally annoyed.
I had better luck the next few batches using a BIAB in addition to mash pipe. Tried inside and outside mash pipe. Preferred inside.

Anyway, the bag helped a lot with the side leaks. I also drained a bunch by holding it halfway (ugh) for a minute or two.

Sparge real slowly. It is doable .

 

[Yooper]

Had a similar experience and equally annoyed.
I had better luck the next few batches using a BIAB in addition to mash pipe. Tried inside and outside mash pipe. Preferred inside.

Anyway, the bag helped a lot with the side leaks. I also drained a bunch by holding it halfway (ugh) for a minute or two.

Sparge real slowly. It is doable .

I did the BIAB inside the malt pipe- really didn't help. It's sure messier than I thought it would be without the middle 'feet' in the new setup.

 

[micraftbeer]

One thing I find interesting on the BrewZilla is how people's experiences vary so greatly. There's a whole section in this thread about people getting stuck mashes, clogging the pump, and needing a brew bag. Then there's a whole group of us that haven't had that problem. We've tried comparing process notes and details, but I don't think we've figured out that variance.

Now here's a new one with sparging and wort spraying all over through the outer holes of the basket. Several people have shared their experience where they haven't had any issues, and now there's a group of folks that do. I almost want to take videos and share because I'm sure the group with wort spraying out doesn't believe those of us that sparge and don't spray wort. And those of us that have nothing close to a spray can't understand those that do.

The only thing I can think of would be compaction of the grain bed. Like crush size/quality and speed of recirc. As I'm batch sparging 1 gallon pitchers of water, I'll frequently have standing water on top of the mash plate on top of my grain. And for the malt pipe to fully drain, it needs to sit there pretty much until I'm close to boil. Which on 120v takes probably 30-40 minutes (but I've never timed it with a watch). I normally get 80+% mash efficiency, which is shocking to me with an all in one. Maybe it all has to do with the crush and compaction of the grain bed.

 

[jdubdvdt]

One thing I find interesting on the BrewZilla is how people's experiences vary so greatly. There's a whole section in this thread about people getting stuck mashes, clogging the pump, and needing a brew bag. Then there's a whole group of us that haven't had that problem. We've tried comparing process notes and details, but I don't think we've figured out that variance.

Now here's a new one with sparging and wort spraying all over through the outer holes of the basket. Several people have shared their experience where they haven't had any issues, and now there's a group of folks that do. I almost want to take videos and share because I'm sure the group with wort spraying out doesn't believe those of us that sparge and don't spray wort. And those of us that have nothing close to a spray can't understand those that do.

The only thing I can think of would be compaction of the grain bed. Like crush size/quality and speed of recirc. As I'm batch sparging 1 gallon pitchers of water, I'll frequently have standing water on top of the mash plate on top of my grain. And for the malt pipe to fully drain, it needs to sit there pretty much until I'm close to boil. Which on 120v takes probably 30-40 minutes (but I've never timed it with a watch). I normally get 80+% mash efficiency, which is shocking to me with an all in one. Maybe it all has to do with the crush and compaction of the grain bed.

I have not been crushing my grains as of recent. My LHBS owner uses a Brewzilla and I told him to mill the grains like he does for his setup at least until I figure my new system out.

The only real variable I can think of is his wife milled my grains the first time. On that brew day I did not have any issues and had the best efficiency.

When I made that same exact recipe a few weeks later I had tons of issues all likely related to grain compaction. I used the same mash thickness and schedule. The only variable I can think of is who crushed the grains.

Otherwise, all three brews I did not use the top plate and I stirred the grains during mash. I tried to keep the pump flow pretty low with the ball valve to prevent grain compaction. When I was having issues it felt like the bottom plate in the malt pipe was caked on with 2" of compacted grains and was tough to stir. When I shoved these grains around the wort flowed freely.

Just trying to narrow down what's causing the issue. I will check with the shop to see if they can remember how they crushed grains and if anything was different from my first to second brew. Doubt they will remember, but it's the only significant variable I can think of at the moment.

 

[Willy]

Brewing as I type this... Using a BIAB inside malt pipe. I tie up the bag and loop the string around the top so nothing is coming out the top. Then, lay it flat on top of the mash and the put the top plate on that.

Once every 15 min.... I will pull out the bag and "fluff" it to ensure I am getting all (or most) the sugars released. So far so good... No stray grains .

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

Anyone know what the two rings here are for? Lifting the filter during mash to give a stir is my guess. Strange they make no mention of it...

https://www.kegland.com.au/products...-malt-pipe-probe-hole#pdp-description-section

 

[Willy]

Not sure but I think it just makes it easier to remove, even when it is hot

 

[micraftbeer]

I also assume it's just to grab onto when removing. Whether that's too school out the grain and clean, or lift and stir the mash if that's your thing. The holes in those tabs seemed like a simple modification to snag it so you didn't have to stick your fingers down in hot wort - use some sort of stainless hook, etc.

 

[BandonBrewingCo]

I got my BrewZilla so happy days. My supplier doesn't stock the Heat Exchanger Dish so went to AliExpress to get it.

Just noticed then that virtually every spare part for the BrewZilla is listed there. That's a huge advantage imo.

My only gripe so far is not being able to import recipes/profiles from Brewfather or just any beer XML or JSON in general. It's supposedly in the works but I haven't seen much movement on their gitbucket for this issue.

But it's not a massive deal. Once you set up a profile on the Rapt portal you can clone and adjust as needed, and then send it to your BrewZilla.

Does anyone know of any reason the default plumbing doesn't go to tap and then pump instead of pump and then tap?

 

[Barão]

Brewing as I type this... Using a BIAB inside malt pipe. I tie up the bag and loop the string around the top so nothing is coming out the top. Then, lay it flat on top of the mash and the put the top plate on that.

Once every 15 min.... I will pull out the bag and "fluff" it to ensure I am getting all (or most) the sugars released. So far so good... No stray grains .

Do you do recirculation? Do you sparge?

 

[Willy]

Do you do recirculation? Do you sparge?

Yes to both. I run a slow recirculate (about 1/3-1/2 open valve) during mash and I also sparge a few gallons (170°) with the mash pipe partially removed

 

[Willy]

Thank you- I felt like I was crazy with everybody else telling me that the liquid couldn't come out of the sides......because it sure did, even as I was lifting it up to get on the 'feet'. It wasn't a lot, but it was enough for me to not to want to pour more liquid into it, unless I poured right now the middle and that really wasn't going to be very efficient. I was very disappointed that the easier lifting and the sparging was impacting by removing those middle feet. I probably will have to rig up a pulley, but I have an old house with a drop ceiling so it won't be all that easy. Even with only 10 pounds of grain, the first part of lifting the grainbasket up was not super easy but the last few inches were really tough as its up over my neck level when lifting the handle.

I wish there was an option to get the older version of the malt pipe, but I understand why. It's still annoying though!

Just finished mashing with Gen 4, no extra feet to half pull out.

I tried this and it worked today. Have to be repeatable .. but so far ... 1 for 1. Success!!!

I used a BIAB inside the malt pipe. I made a curved piece of heavy gauge wire (a circle shape) to hold the bag to the edges at the bottom of the pipe. Then I carefully cinched the top of the bag so that the string was tightened and locked under the lip of the pipe. Then I straightened it out to get as few wrinkles as possible.

All set. Hit strike temp and added grain. I did not use the top sieve plate since it is very tight and wants to rip the mash bag

Anyway... Success. No leaks out the side when pulling the mash pipe or sparging.

 

[mashdar]

Just finished mashing with Gen 4, no extra feet to half pull out.

I tried this and it worked today. Have to be repeatable .. but so far ... 1 for 1. Success!!!

I used a BIAB inside the malt pipe. I made a curved piece of heavy gauge wire (a circle shape) to hold the bag to the edges at the bottom of the pipe. Then I carefully cinched the top of the bag so that the string was tightened and locked under the lip of the pipe. Then I straightened it out to get as few wrinkles as possible.

All set. Hit strike temp and added grain. I did not use the top sieve plate since it is very tight and wants to rip the mash bag

Anyway... Success. No leaks out the side when pulling the mash pipe or sparging.

Sparge or no sparge?

 

[Willy]

Sparge or no sparge?

I sparged about 3 gal of 170°F water .... Grain bed held firm, no leaks.

I also reduced mash water to about 93% of recommended level.

Recirculation during mash? Yes