Brewie

[Hamboner]

Gusius also has a mod to add another inlet for filtered watered for the brew side of things. This way he's not using his filtered water for the cooling circuit. Its pretty well documented, but i think some of his product links are now defunct as a result of turnover on aliexpress.

If you dig into the file system on the SD card you can see how it parses all the recipes. Basically every step of the brew has a list of commands that include every valve position, pump on/off, burner on/off, and a couple of others that are probably weight sensors, set temps, etc. These steps are then all compiled below that to indicate how long each step should take and in what series of loops they should run to complete the brew. I started decoding some of it but, as with most things in life these days, i need more time. The brewie's linux system translates these and sends them to the microcontroller to actually do things (which is the part the gusius was 'sniffing'.)

More information here hacking in.


http://think.gusius.com/brewie-sniffing-the-control-board-uart/

Credit and kudos to the user. Maybe they are already a member here?

 

[Ajes]

Btw, does anyone know what the wattage is on the heating elements in the B+?
(I'm a little worried about whether the ssr's are getting enough cooling, and might want to replace them with a better brand).

 

[Hamboner]

With a kill-a-watt hooked up to mine (b20) it draws just under 1500w total when a burner is on.

 

[Ajes]

Ok, thanks.

 

[BoilerInSoCal]

I currently have the High Gravity system, but I'm considering one of the ebay units. A couple of questions for those who have ordered: (1) did you look through each of the units' descriptions, and do you think it is better to go with a specific "problem"? I see some have "N/A" for the reported problems, and some have more detail, like "mash pump"*. (2) Any idea if the "N/A" for "tanks" means it wasn't used? I see some that say "used", but I'm not sure I've seen one that says "looks new". Anyway, I'm just trying to figure out if there is a rule of thumb for selecting a unit, or if it really is a crap shoot.

Also, any idea if the some of the parts on the Taiwan website would fit the 20 (e.g., the hop cages)?

*"mash pump" seems like a really easy fix to me (and could just be a matter of cleaning/unclogging it).

 

[HarkinBanks]

With a kill-a-watt hooked up to mine (b20) it draws just under 1500w total when a burner is on.

Sounds about right for a 15amp plug. Burner is rated at 1800 watts.

 

[HarkinBanks]

I currently have the High Gravity system, but I'm considering one of the ebay units. A couple of questions for those who have ordered: (1) did you look through each of the units' descriptions, and do you think it is better to go with a specific "problem"? I see some have "N/A" for the reported problems, and some have more detail, like "mash pump"*. (2) Any idea if the "N/A" for "tanks" means it wasn't used? I see some that say "used", but I'm not sure I've seen one that says "looks new". Anyway, I'm just trying to figure out if there is a rule of thumb for selecting a unit, or if it really is a crap shoot.

Also, any idea if the some of the parts on the Taiwan website would fit the 20 (e.g., the hop cages)?

*"mash pump" seems like a really easy fix to me (and could just be a matter of cleaning/unclogging it).

I think it’s truly a crapshoot for the eBay units. I went with a listing that said the tanks looked new. Here was my listing:


This item is a customer return and has not been fully tested. For Parts Only.
Reported issue: N/A
Visually we can report the following:
Cover: Looks Used
Tanks: Looks New
Lids: N/A

Everything works on the unit I bought. I would try to buy one with “new” tanks. Mine was never used on the boil side. Looks like user error for an overflow on the mash side. But in the end you never know. I agree the mash pump one looks like maybe an easy fix. Unclog the pump or at worst replace it. They are just topsflo pumps and easily found.

There are a lot of parts that are interchangeable between b20 and b+. The false bottom and hop cages are all the same. Pumps and valves and chiller are the same. Boards and inlet valve changed.

 

[BoilerInSoCal]

I think it’s truly a crapshoot for the eBay units. I went with a listing that said the tanks looked new. Here was my listing:


This item is a customer return and has not been fully tested. For Parts Only.
Reported issue: N/A
Visually we can report the following:
Cover: Looks Used
Tanks: Looks New
Lids: N/A

Everything works on the unit I bought. I would try to buy one with “new” tanks. Mine was never used on the boil side. Looks like user error for an overflow on the mash side. But in the end you never know. I agree the mash pump one looks like maybe an easy fix. Unclog the pump or at worst replace it. They are just topsflo pumps and easily found.

There are a lot of parts that are interchangeable between b20 and b+. The false bottom and hop cages are all the same. Pumps and valves and chiller are the same. Boards and inlet valve changed.

Thanks so much! I think I'm going to pull the trigger. At the very least it is something to tinker with.

Like the others, I am also curious if anyone has had any luck with the $599 B+ or the parts from that website.

 

[Ajes]

I have a question about the hop cages:
To me, the mesh on these cages seem a bit too open. I bought a hop spider once with about the same mesh size, and too much hop-gunk got out.
What are your experiences here?
I was wondering whether it would be an idea to but the hops into tea-filters inside the hop cages?

 

[HarkinBanks]

I have a question about the hop cages:
To me, the mesh on these cages seem a bit too open. I bought a hop spider once with about the same mesh size, and too much hop-gunk got out.
What are your experiences here?
I was wondering whether it would be an idea to but the hops into tea-filters inside the hop cages?

In my experience they need to be that open so as to not restrict flow during recirculation. As it is they get very gunked up by the end of the brew. Also why there are limits on the amount of hops you can put in a cage. If you don’t close the mash lid during boil, the cages will actually rise up and cause some overflow issues.

Whereas hop spiders typically just sit in a brew, they don’t have wort recirculated through them.

 

[Still Brewn]

In my experience they need to be that open so as to not restrict flow during recirculation. As it is they get very gunked up by the end of the brew. Also why there are limits on the amount of hops you can put in a cage. If you don’t close the mash lid during boil, the cages will actually rise up and cause some overflow issues.

Whereas hop spiders typically just sit in a brew, they don’t have wort recirculated through them.

Yes, they will float and wort will start to flow over the top of them, you can see this by opening the mash tun lid while wort is circulating through the hop cages. The limits are in place to keep the hop utilization efficiencies up high enough, if you put much more in your numbers won't be accurate and you will be wasting your hops. By the end of the brew with an overfilled hop cage you will have an almost solid mass of hop material making it impossible for the wort to extract any hop oils, flavor or aroma from anywhere but the outside edge of the hop cages. Try putting a full ounce in one of the cages and you will see what I am talking about. If you want more hops in your beer add tea balls to the boil. My wife got me one from Bed Bath And Beyond. I posted a picture a while back. It works pretty good it holds

about a half an ounce, good for flavoring and aroma additions.

 

[Still Brewn]

The tea balls are great for adding things like coriander and orange peel also, it keeps the small bits contained better than the hop cages.
If you are worried about toom much trub ending up in you fermenter you can always grab a fine mesh strainer and filter it out as it is being filled just remember to sanitize it before using.

 

[Still Brewn]

Make sure to get a quality one that is all stainless steel, that one is part of a set of 3 from BBB, another thing from the wife.

 

[Ajes]

Actually, I worry more about the plate chiller getting clogged up by it.

 

[deroosa]

Thanks to Rob Rowald for the google drive info, it made me confident enough to take the plunge on purchasing B20's.

I have picked up two of the ebay units, ordering the second one after the first one arrived with all of the accessories and in excellent physical condition. It also helped that ebay had a 10% bonus bucks promotion going both times.

In both cases the description stated:
This item is a customer return and has not been fully tested. For Parts Only.
Reported issue: Update Software
Visually we can report the following:
Cover: Looks Used
Tanks: N/A
Lids: N/A

An interesting item to note is the the serial numbers are sequential, almost like these were "remanufactured" units. Both came with all of the accessories, false bottom, hop cages, in what appears to be new condition since they were in what appears to be the original bags. One unit was running 2.9 the other 3.0.1. It appears that both of them have most likely been used, however very little. The second one appears to have not been used in about 14 months based upon the log files, had almost every tube had stuck together at the where the pinch valves had been closed. Both had the white silicon plugs placed per the service manual. I was also able to use the !#43373# to check if I could hear the pinch valves at least opening before I opened it up to swap out the sd card with new card with the 3.1.2 image. The menu looks identical to the developer mode in the videos. I found it in the service manual and have been using that as a guide for testing.

The tanks and sheetmetal in the first looked clean, I can see a line in the boil tank that makes it appear that it has been used before. The tubing looked clean, however the silicon plug on the outlet had some black film on it that easily wiped off.

The second unit maybe had a mash tank dry fire, and then water poured in it since the bottom of the tank is warped/dented upwards over the right side of the heater. I can't figure out any other way that the bottom of the tank would be dented upwards, since dropping something into the tank would have dented it the other way.

So far happy with my two purchases. I have a pending order for replacement parts. I loaded it up more parts that I will probably need for the next 20 years and to allow me to replace pretty much everything, however the shipping on a $300 parts order came up to $95, so I have hesitated and am rethinking it. The replacement heating elements and entire front control panel's are somewhat large, but $95 seems crazy for shipping.

 

[Ajes]

Yet another question - this time about cleaning.
Yesterday I ran a full clean (haven't used the machine yet, but wanted to clean thoroughly before first brew).
I've found some wasing tablets with good reviews, unscented.
However, there was a bit of a white substance left - particularly around the hop cage outflows.
It was a bit difficult to get off with warm water, but I ended up being able to get it off easily with a bit of coffee-machine descaler acid.
Since my water is relatively hard, I wonder if I should pour in just a wee bit of the descaler for the full clean, or whether that could damage something in the pump/tubing/platecooler etc???

 

[117thBrewer]

After fixing the pump on my Ebay unit I did my first brew yesterday. Went flawless except for a slight burning insulation smell from the unit. I will probably upgrade the wiring/connectors.

Mine did not come with the accessories so I made my own false bottom out of the top of one of my keggles and I used hop bags for the hops. Everything worked, no scorching, the flow was good through the bags.

 

[HarkinBanks]

Yet another question - this time about cleaning.
Yesterday I ran a full clean (haven't used the machine yet, but wanted to clean thoroughly before first brew).
I've found some wasing tablets with good reviews, unscented.
However, there was a bit of a white substance left - particularly around the hop cage outflows.
It was a bit difficult to get off with warm water, but I ended up being able to get it off easily with a bit of coffee-machine descaler acid.
Since my water is relatively hard, I wonder if I should pour in just a wee bit of the descaler for the full clean, or whether that could damage something in the pump/tubing/platecooler etc???

From the Brewie repair manual:

1. Cleaning

IMPORTANT: Only food grade chemicals (vinegar) can be used for cleaning the tanks inside. Do not use any chemicals to clean the tanks.

After switching off the machine it has to be cleared inside-out. For the interior cleaning (inside the tanks), use only water, vinegar (food grade 20% vinegar) for the water stains, or IPA for other stains.



That being said, I do use Oxyclean in my unit followed by a quick clean with just water to get rid of any residue. Mate told me a long time ago that Oxy was fine to use, similar to their tabs.

 

[Nate R]

Yet another question - this time about cleaning.
Yesterday I ran a full clean (haven't used the machine yet, but wanted to clean thoroughly before first brew).
I've found some wasing tablets with good reviews, unscented.
However, there was a bit of a white substance left - particularly around the hop cage outflows.
It was a bit difficult to get off with warm water, but I ended up being able to get it off easily with a bit of coffee-machine descaler acid.
Since my water is relatively hard, I wonder if I should pour in just a wee bit of the descaler for the full clean, or whether that could damage something in the pump/tubing/platecooler etc???

I recall that we were given the go ahead to use PBW as well from Brewie (should be buried in this thread plus i bet i have in a manual too from them).
The problem with basically all the dishwasher tabs i found was the residue.
If you add a tiny amount of PBW (i use about 1/4 teaspon only in cage 1) it works good for me.
Here is my best advice- always run a short clean or two after each brew. Always run a full.clean after yoyr brew day (somedays i do 2 back to back). Never let this thing sit overnight after a brew. If you do, run at least two full cleans through it.

 

[Still Brewn]

For the interior cleaning (inside the tanks), use only water, vinegar (food grade 20% vinegar) for the water stains, or IPA for other stains.

I've never seen 20% vinager....? I have only see 5% vinegar (5% acedic acid) or is my head up my..... and I'm over thinking this? 1 cup vinegar 4 cups water?

 

[Nate R]

I've never seen 20% vinager....? I have only see 5% vinegar (5% acedic acid) or is my head up my..... and I'm over thinking this? 1 cup vinegar 4 cups water?

Well i don't knoe about your head.. lol... but i agree- 20% vinegar seems too much. I like 5%- isn't that about what coffee pots/makers suggest?

 

[HarkinBanks]

Hah, well I assume it’s a ratio of water to vinegar. 4 parts water 1 part vinegar, but I doubt it needs to be that precise.

 

[Still Brewn]

Well i don't knoe about your head.. lol... but i agree- 20% vinegar seems too much. I like 5%- isn't that about what coffee pots/makers suggest?

Yes.... regular vinegar 5% you would use for cooking, cleaning, etc..... like I said I've never seen anything stronger and I'm old..... ish

Hah, well I assume it’s a ratio of water to vinegar. 4 parts water 1 part vinegar.

That sounds better, must be just how Hungarians word things.

And you are right, not a big deal I would assume even using at up to a 1 to 1 ratio. The important thing to the process is getting the mixture hot to boiling if possible. Takes off limescale in minutes if there is a buildup.

 

[Still Brewn]

My limescale comes off during regular cleaning at the end of the brew.

 

[HarkinBanks]

So far happy with my two purchases. I have a pending order for replacement parts. I loaded it up more parts that I will probably need for the next 20 years and to allow me to replace pretty much everything, however the shipping on a $300 parts order came up to $95, so I have hesitated and am rethinking it. The replacement heating elements and entire front control panel's are somewhat large, but $95 seems crazy for shipping.

Is that the taiwan website we have been posting? For that price, you may as well buy another ebay unit and harvest the parts as you need them.

 

[Still Brewn]

I loaded it up more parts that I will probably need for the next 20 years and to allow me to replace pretty much everything, however the shipping on a $300 parts order came up to $95, so I have hesitated and am rethinking it. The replacement heating elements and entire front control panel's are somewhat large, but $95 seems crazy for shipping.

Did you order parts for original Brewie or Brewie +? How compatible are the circuit boards between the 2. Just curious because at least one of the boards in my Brewie + say version 2.

Let us know how your purchase goes. $95 isn't really that bad considering how far it's coming. We have spent 60+ sending stuff to my son in DC from the midwest.

Did you use PayPal for the order?

 

[Still Brewn]

Never mind ..... I just looked at the spare MCU Board I have. It says V1p1 and it is orange along with all the rest of the boards I can see in B+

 

[Qunaki]

Took a couple of evenings to read-up (have been of during the summer).
Brewed a stout yesterday,and had a bad 58% effiency 1.033 (will be a 3% stout now).
Realized the Breiwe is almost gone, and I still have warranty.

Like Ajes we can't get spare parts (B20s) like you, here in Denmark/Sweden. And most of You seems to have got easy to fix machines. But ok these are B20, mine is the +
As for now I would only like two extra hop cages. But in the future, who know what will break and not be able to fix; circuit cards etc. Even if a lot of parts are of the shelves, I guess the machines will die of from them other specials.
But glad for those made a real good deal, and be able to run Brewie's for +20yrs.

 

[Qunaki]

I've never seen 20% vinager....? I have only see 5% vinegar

In Sweden our normal food-vinegar is 12% and there is one with 24% vinegar-sprit (just use half of it). Used it to remove the first/last time scorthing in Brewie (thanks for the tips).

And in Sweden a lot of normal chemicals can't be found, and a lot are also forbidden for private persons to buy. E.g H202 down to 12% now, before 30 and 17%. Pure isopropanol, can't be found.

 

[Ajes]

Just a note:
A generous soul on the facebook page just posted links (on the brewieforum.net) to a 3.1.1 and 3.1.2 image for the B+
I just tested them, and they seem to work fine.