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Well... today's brewing kinda went a little sideways on my b20 (original) unit.
I am on my third brew using the auto-in water for the brewing water.
Set up machine, calibrated, started it up.
All went fine, until the water had pumped over the mashing.
Mashing started, and then the water failed to stop filling for the sparge water.
Thankfully I caught it in time- and here is how I think I have saved the brew:
-I fully drained the boil side
-I drained the mash side and saved it
-I re-started the brew, and used manual water
-I just used the mash drain for the initial water
-I will manually add the sparge water.

Hopefully i can save this brew!

I know this was an issue in the past, but as i recall it was all either software or calibration (not doing it) related. Any other thoughts?

Thanks all!

Thanks @macgyuver for the reminder.
I am happy to report- rest of the brew day went great. Hit my O.G. spot on, so not a loss that i can see.
Also, on the subsiquent quick clean, and full clean runs- no issues with overfill.

Iirc, i *may* have been trying to log back onto the ap and/or has it just time out... so... i guess the moral for me is- keep an eye out for the auto water in cycle and dont fuss with the app around that time too.
 
Im curious about the software too. Since this is the B20, l dont know whether its impotant to update the firmware too. I think someone managed to update the firmware on their B20 using commands through a terminal, so Id suggest trying that out first.
 
I did the manual SD card update on my ebay unit (copied from my 'factory-updated' B20), then flashed the microcontroller firmware to get things working correctly (post of page 57). The only issue i have noticed now is that during a full clean, right after it transfers the cleaning water to the mash tank, it always stops and says 'no water in the boil tank.' This is odd because there shouldn't be at that point and i don't think my other system does that. All i have to do is hit OK (i think the warning tells me to put the correct amount in even though i have the auto water inlet on) and it continues the clean normally.

Regarding the microcontroller flashing, my B20 has 3 possible files on the SD card. There are labelled:
Control.ino.brewie1.hex -> This one made my machine work fine
Control.ino.brewie2.hex -> This one booted fine, but nothing would work (no control over valves, or pumps, mash heater was able to turn on at least once though)
Control.ino.mega.hex -> this one worked seemingly fine at first, but then didn't actuate the cooling inlet valve on a test brew, also didn't actuate any valves on startup like usual, also didn't open the valves after hitting the side power button and hitting 'yes i want to shut down' like i've come to expect of the newer software version

Apparently my hardware likes the brewie1 file so thats where i ended up.

In other notes, in the ebay system i've been playing with the bags. I found if i go with alot tighter grind than i'm used to and stack the bags on top of each other i get the best efficiency - even better than my arborfab basket.

All in all, both of mine have been flawless (aside from the above cleaning 'issue') for quite some time now, which is great, but also means i'm here less posting about it. With a 9 month old baby crawling around, this system is the reason i'm still able to brew, albeit less hands on than i've ever been used to. About to put a magic hat 'feast of fools' clone in the secondary with some raspberries tonight. I like it and more importantly, so does the wife....

Recipe for anyone interested:

9.25 lbs. (4.2 kg) Crisp 2-row pale malt
0.5 lbs. (0.23 kg) CaraPils malt (15 °L)
1.66 lbs. (0. 75 kg) crystal malt (70 °L)
0.26 lbs. (0.12 kg) chocolate malt
1.0 lb. (0.45 kg) roasted barley
1.0 fl. oz. (3 .5 mL) blackstrap molasses
5.0 lbs. (2.3 kg) fresh raspberries
(secondary)

8 AAU Warrior hops (60 mins)
(0.5 oz./14 g of 16% alpha acids)

Wyeast 1187 (Ringwood Ale) yeast

0. 75 cups corn sugar (for priming)

Step by Step
Mash at 156 oF (69 °C). Boil wort for
90 minutes adding all hops after 30 minutes.
Add molasses with 15 minutes left
in boil. Ferment at 70 °F (21 °C) for 7
days. Add raspberries in secondary.
 
Regarding the microcontroller flashing, my B20 has 3 possible files on the SD card. There are labelled:
Control.ino.brewie1.hex -> This one made my machine work fine
Control.ino.brewie2.hex -> This one booted fine, but nothing would work (no control over valves, or pumps, mash heater was able to turn on at least once though)
Control.ino.mega.hex -> this one worked seemingly fine at first, but then didn't actuate the cooling inlet valve on a test brew, also didn't actuate any valves on startup like usual, also didn't open the valves after hitting the side power button and hitting 'yes i want to shut down' like i've come to expect of the newer software version

I suspect that the brewie1.hex is for the B20 and the brewie2.hex is for the B+
Maybe the last one is for the very first version of the brewie?
 
So...I've already read up from page 40 so I'm fairly comfortable knowing that buying an eBay B20 would come with no support at all but I'm considering buying one anyway.

Specifically, I'm hoping that I could get a B20 up and running but just fall back on scavenging it for parts for an automated Brutus 20 system using my current BK and cooler setup (just move all the pumps and values out and wire them up to my current system--I'd do full cycle tests before drilling holes).

I'm very interested in going electric and getting more automation added over time but this could get me there very quickly and quite affordably.

I'd originally just planned on building my own with an Adriuno Mega and BruControl for mash steps and slowly expand from there (cost to implement all the sensors and valves gets pricey really quick)...but this has caught my interest due to just how much automation is incorporated in the Brewie and the extremely low cost of a failed unit.



So I've got a few questions here that may help me decide which way to go.

1) It's been a while since anybody posted about the eBay listings and I'm wondering if they've been picked over already

2) Does anybody happen to know if the sensors, pumps or valves to work with an Arduino/Wemos controller? I feel like they should as it's mostly just electrical signals but could take a lot of trial and error to get them dialed in.

3) How easily could we build recipes if Brewie's site goes down? I already have BrewSmith and I'm extremely comfortable with custom profiles so I could create Brewie recipes...but can they get added reasonably easily into the system?

4) Am I just nuts to be thinking about this?
 
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So...I've already read up from page 40 so I'm fairly comfortable knowing that buying an eBay B20 would come with no support at all but I'm considering buying one anyway.

Specifically, I'm hoping that I could get a B20 up and running but just fall back on scavenging it for parts for an automated Brutus 20 system using my current BK and cooler setup (just move all the pumps and values out and wire them up to my current system--I'd do full cycle tests before drilling holes).

I'm very interested in going electric and getting more automation added over time but this could get me there very quickly and quite affordably.

I'd originally just planned on building my own with an Adriuno Mega and BruControl for mash steps and slowly expand from there (cost to implement all the sensors and valves gets pricey really quick)...but this has caught my interest due to just how much automation is incorporated in the Brewie and the extremely low cost of a failed unit.



So I've got a few questions here that may help me decide which way to go.

1) It's been a while since anybody posted about the eBay listings and I'm wondering if they've been picked over already

2) Does anybody happen to know if the sensors, pumps or valves to work with an Arduino/Wemos controller?

3) How easily could we build recipes if Brewie's site goes down? I already have BrewSmith and I'm extremely comfortable with custom profiles so I could create Brewie recipes...but can they get added reasonably easily into the system?

4) Am I just nuts to be thinking about this?


My $0.02 worth...

#1: my guess? Yes best units went first. Only a guess.

#2: i cannot answer

#3: super duper easy. We have all the Brewie brand brewpad recipies. It takes about 3 minutes to program a recipie once you have it down. Quicker if you use the app.

#4. I think it is crazy to use the brewie inside parts for another system. Probably much better ways to do that.
They key is how simple and relatively small the brewie is- so i would say if you plan to incorporate parts into the brewie go for it.
 
2) Does anybody happen to know if the sensors, pumps or valves to work with an Arduino/Wemos controller? I feel like they should as it's mostly just electrical signals but could take a lot of trial and error to get them dialed in.


4) Am I just nuts to be thinking about this?

2:
Technically yes. There's about 10 valves, two pumps and two heating elements. These are being controlled by an arduino chip. However, I don't think a single wemos controller will have enough pins on it to control all that - you likely have to expand it with some 1-wire controllers.
(this is likely what is on the proprietary mcu board in the brewie - as mentioned it has an arduino chip, but there's some other stuff on there too).

4: nope! If you like tinkering (like me). In any case you will learn something about all the stuff involved, when messing with it. :)
I originally bought my brewie because I wanted to see if I could implement a controller of my own design. However the machine works so well for me, that I haven't felt like changing anything.
 
1) It's been a while since anybody posted about the eBay listings and I'm wondering if they've been picked over already

2) Does anybody happen to know if the sensors, pumps or valves to work with an Arduino/Wemos controller? I feel like they should as it's mostly just electrical signals but could take a lot of trial and error to get them dialed in.

3) How easily could we build recipes if Brewie's site goes down? I already have BrewSmith and I'm extremely comfortable with custom profiles so I could create Brewie recipes...but can they get added reasonably easily into the system?

4) Am I just nuts to be thinking about this?

1) Read any eBay listings carefully, what I have seen described here is that some of them are not complete with everything you would need.

4) It depends. You will most likely have to do a lot of tinkering to get the thing to work. If that is OK with you - try to get a complete unit. I for one saw all the problems right from the beginning and was glad that the price was way out of my range. Now, with having to re-engineer the thing to make it work.... Not for me at any price.
 
Thanks @macgyuver for the reminder.
I am happy to report- rest of the brew day went great. Hit my O.G. spot on, so not a loss that i can see.
Also, on the subsiquent quick clean, and full clean runs- no issues with overfill.

Iirc, i *may* have been trying to log back onto the ap and/or has it just time out... so... i guess the moral for me is- keep an eye out for the auto water in cycle and dont fuss with the app around that time too.

The app can get you cross wise fast, do not try and run the brew via your pad or phone, I use my pad to configure and load recipes only then make damn sure you double check the load into the machine, I had one that dropped the Sparge water and caught it in time, the app appears to link and disconnect at will, a nice size display mod on the machine is what we need or a blue tooth link as wireless tends to be very unstable and can lag
 
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Thanks to all three of you for the thoughtful replies. It's definitely helping me make a calculated decision here.

@Nate R

I definitely agree with you that the system is well designed and compact which is a huge plus for me (I have to bring everything out of a closet when I brew..but this looks nice enough that I might get away with leaving it out).

I'm mostly looking for a backup plan already in case I get a unit which just isn't salvageable (mold / contamination / no accessories) or turns out to be too expensive to repair...I've already got a 2 vessel setup with a pump so I'm almost there with a bunch of end-points to control)

@Ajes

That's VERY encouraging that it's controller is an adruino...I was looking at Arduino Mega and BruControl if I were to convert my existing brewrig!

@kh54s10

yeah...it's frustrating that the ebay listings don't include pictures considering there's so many of them and the descriptions don't say much of anything. :(

I tried messaging the seller but who knows if/when they'll get back to me.

I don't mind tinkering and already do a lot of it outside of brewing (most recent example is adding heated grips and Li-ion battery for my snowblower)
 
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Thanks to all three of you for the thoughtful replies. It's definitely helping me make a calculated decision here.

@Nate R

I definitely agree with you that the system is well designed and compact which is a huge plus for me (I have to bring everything out of a closet when I brew..but this looks nice enough that I might get away with leaving it out).

I'm mostly looking for a backup plan already in case I get a unit which just isn't salvageable (mold / contamination / no accessories) or turns out to be too expensive to repair...I've already got a 2 vessel setup with a pump so I'm almost there with a bunch of end-points to control)

@Ajes

That's VERY encouraging that it's controller is an adruino...I was looking at Arduino Mega and BruControl if I were to convert my existing brewrig!

@kh54s10

yeah...it's frustrating that the ebay listings don't include pictures considering there's so many of them and the descriptions don't say much of anything. :(

I tried messaging the seller but who knows if/when they'll get back to me.

I don't mind tinkering and already do a lot of it outside of brewing (most recent example is adding heated grips and Li-ion battery for my snowblower)


Well in that case... i say Go For It!!! I am not worried about risking your money anymore!!! :D

... but keep us updated if you do! And come here for help!!!
 
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Thanks to all three of you for the thoughtful replies. It's definitely helping me make a calculated decision here.

@Nate R

I definitely agree with you that the system is well designed and compact which is a huge plus for me (I have to bring everything out of a closet when I brew..but this looks nice enough that I might get away with leaving it out).

I'm mostly looking for a backup plan already in case I get a unit which just isn't salvageable (mold / contamination / no accessories) or turns out to be too expensive to repair...I've already got a 2 vessel setup with a pump so I'm almost there with a bunch of end-points to control)

@Ajes

That's VERY encouraging that it's controller is an adruino...I was looking at Arduino Mega and BruControl if I were to convert my existing brewrig!

@kh54s10

yeah...it's frustrating that the ebay listings don't include pictures considering there's so many of them and the descriptions don't say much of anything. :(

I tried messaging the seller but who knows if/when they'll get back to me.

I don't mind tinkering and already do a lot of it outside of brewing (most recent example is adding heated grips and Li-ion battery for my snowblower)
If you review some of my postings on the eBay units and might help you out, I have two of them and with minimal work and ordering false bottoms and hop baskets they work perfectly..
 
If you review some of my postings on the eBay units and might help you out, I have two of them and with minimal work and ordering false bottoms and hop baskets they work perfectly..

Where did you order the false bottom/ hop cages from? That 'wix' website posted on this thread earlier? I submitted an email reauest but never heard back.
 
Where did you order the false bottom/ hop cages from? That 'wix' website posted on this thread earlier? I submitted an email request but never heard back.

They are set up now to do PayPal and shipping calculates when you add to shopping cart well before you sign into PayPal, originally they had you order then email them for the total and PayPal invoice, note when you order consider cost of shipping for say one false bottom is around $40.00 where as if you ordered 2 bottoms and 6 hop cages plus brewie bags that still might be right around $40.00 shipping total, anyway you will see the total before going to PayPal
 
Well...my message to the seller has apparently been ignored.

I ended up buying a unit off ebay over the holiday weekend anyway and it should get here within the week. I'm still a little nervous that it might not come with the hop baskets and false bottom but I included a message that I needed a unit with them and to cancel my order if this can't happen.

I'll post again when it arrives and I have some time to tinker around with it. Thanks again for the help everyone!
 
Update: It arrived today and I did some poking around. Physically it looks to be in good condition but there might be a bit more broken than I was anticipating:

The white plastic just above the display is cracked but hte screen itself doesn't show any physical damage...when I hold the power button down, I can hear a bunch of clicking inside (assuming that's the pumps) but the screen doesn't turn on so it's hard to tell whether it's failing to boot or if it's the display (there's a red light I can see from the inside).

The ebay listing stated it was a bad temp switch but when I took the bottom panel off to take a look, one of the pumps (the one opposite of the plate chiller) had it's housing opened up and the valve it connects to had the plastic mounts broken off.

The two fans in the bottom were also both disconnected which leads me to believe someone had taken a look inside as well...assuming it was the repair technician.

Anyway...There seems to be a lot going on here and I was really hoping to get into the dev mode to test parts that way so I'm not quite sure what to start looking at first. If anyone is able to point me in a direction to start troubleshooting this thing I'd be really appreciative.

I'll probably start digging around in this thread for other repairs (saw someone mention an SD card replacement to fix a similar bootup issue already) as well as the facebook group and the repair guides on the other forums rather than just sit around.

Hopefully I can at least figure out what parts I need to buy before the weekend is over!
 
Update: It arrived today and I did some poking around. Physically it looks to be in good condition but there might be a bit more broken than I was anticipating:

The white plastic just above the display is cracked but hte screen itself doesn't show any physical damage...when I hold the power button down, I can hear a bunch of clicking inside (assuming that's the pumps) but the screen doesn't turn on so it's hard to tell whether it's failing to boot or if it's the display (there's a red light I can see from the inside).

The ebay listing stated it was a bad temp switch but when I took the bottom panel off to take a look, one of the pumps (the one opposite of the plate chiller) had it's housing opened up and the valve it connects to had the plastic mounts broken off.

The two fans in the bottom were also both disconnected which leads me to believe someone had taken a look inside as well...assuming it was the repair technician.

Anyway...There seems to be a lot going on here and I was really hoping to get into the dev mode to test parts that way so I'm not quite sure what to start looking at first. If anyone is able to point me in a direction to start troubleshooting this thing I'd be really appreciative.

I'll probably start digging around in this thread for other repairs (saw someone mention an SD card replacement to fix a similar bootup issue already) as well as the facebook group and the repair guides on the other forums rather than just sit around.

Hopefully I can at least figure out what parts I need to buy before the weekend is over!

Fwiw, on my original B20 unit, when the SD card needed to be replaced, it would turn on, make clicks, but the screen always stayed dark.
So... for the cost of a 16gb sd card you could flash new software on it. Go to the brewie forum- i think it is all there, including software and directions.

Good luck, please keep us updated and feel free to ask for help (i.e. if you want any files or directions)
 
Thanks @Nate R

I'll definitely give the SD card a try. I've already downloaded all the repair guides and a couple image files to my PC just in case so I'm most of the way there already ;)
 
Thanks @Nate R

I'll definitely give the SD card a try. I've already downloaded all the repair guides and a couple image files to my PC just in case so I'm most of the way there already ;)

One of my eBay units did the same thing. It was the SD card. I replaced it and flashed a lower level image on it. Booted it up and everything started working properly. I let it upgrade from Brewie to the latest B20 firmware from them. I believe it was 3.0.1. This insures that all firmware for MCU and Controller gets update to that level. Now everything works as it should. I am in the process of upgrading the wires to 10ga and adding the fan mod for good measure. Once done I will flash a card with the 3.1.1 firmware which includes the dev mode.
 
I wonder if any of you guys brewed the "Black Knight" recipe from the ultimate collection?
I brewed it a few days ago, but I'm a bit surprised at the numbers I got, and wonder how it turned out for others?
 
I got the SD card rebuilt using a v3.0 image and it's working again! Thanks for the additional info about versions and firmware updates @macgyuver; I've got some 16GB cards coming (used a 64GB one I had laying around) so I'll probably flash one of those to the newest version later this week.

I was able to get into dev mode in v3.0 using recipe code !#43373# and everything appears to be functional except for the boil heater...I'm a bit surprised by that considering how the pump and valve on the mash side looked but I ran several cleaning cycles and even ran through a recipe up to the boil without any issues.

I'll start tackling the boil heater soon but I plan to do the wiring and fan upgrades as well since I'll be tearing it down anyway.

I'm feeling really good about this now that I've got it booting and was able to poke around in dev mode
 
I got the SD card rebuilt using a v3.0 image and it's working again! Thanks for the additional info about versions and firmware updates @macgyuver; I've got some 16GB cards coming (used a 64GB one I had laying around) so I'll probably flash one of those to the newest version later this week.

I was able to get into dev mode in v3.0 using recipe code !#43373# and everything appears to be functional except for the boil heater...I'm a bit surprised by that considering how the pump and valve on the mash side looked but I ran several cleaning cycles and even ran through a recipe up to the boil without any issues.

I'll start tackling the boil heater soon but I plan to do the wiring and fan upgrades as well since I'll be tearing it down anyway.

I'm feeling really good about this now that I've got it booting and was able to poke around in dev mode

Great news!! There is probably a great chance the boil heater is not working because of the wires. Which should be redone anyways. Or it may be an SSR- also a fairly easy and cheap fix. I think someone here got one at Grainger. But also all over online.
 
Yup. SSR from grainger was me, but they are easy to come by. Boil heater should be easy to trouble shoot. I doubt it’s the heater itself but the connections or the SSR or the fuse.
 
I tore things apart this afternoon and one of the crimp connections on the boil heater is fried (yellow end turned black--attached a picture).

I found the post @HarkinBanks made on page 32 regarding the fan mod and spades/silicon tape fix...I've noticed that some people have white cables as opposed to my black cables so I'm wondering if I should replace the original black cables with heavier gauge wiring on top of the spade/silicon tape and a fan mod?
 

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I tore things apart this afternoon and one of the crimp connections on the boil heater is fried (yellow end turned black--attached a picture).

I found the post @HarkinBanks made on page 32 regarding the fan mod and spades/silicon tape fix...I've noticed that some people have white cables as opposed to my black cables so I'm wondering if I should replace the original black cables with heavier gauge wiring on top of the spade/silicon tape and a fan mod?

Your black wires are fine. Just cut back that one that has some extra heat until you get clean wire. Tape the full ends with silicone tape and they are the same as the “upgraded” white wires. Way back when brewie took my advice and started using silicone tape instead of those terrible plastic end caps. Do the same to all of your connections on the boil heater, and the mash heater. Pain but needs to be done.
 
Hello everyone need help. I bought Brewie + on Amazon, when I turned on it turned out that firmware 3.0.2, disassembled a sd card and mounted image 3.1.1, the brewery starts up, but does not show the temperature and volume of water. I tried to update the MCU, it did not give any results. Share your MCU update experience for Brewie +.
 

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I looks like you have some other issues talking to the programmer, but once you get that sorted out, be sure that you have the correct capitalization on the hex file name when trying to flash. On my b20, the file is 'Control....', not 'control....'.

I think some other people had this programmer problem before as well. Wondering if brewioe didn't get a batch of cables that had wires flipped, or if they were putting on a build that has the lock bits set preventing programming the easy way.
 
@Hamboner: I remember you writing the command you used to flash your firmware, but that didn't work for me either.
I suspect that command works for B20, but not for the B+.
There must be a way to flash the B+ inside the terminal, but I couldn't figure out how. In the end, my attempts ended up making the mcu board unresponsive (making the Brewie completely dead) - hence the need for flashing it in another way.
 
I tore things apart this afternoon and one of the crimp connections on the boil heater is fried (yellow end turned black--attached a picture).

I found the post @HarkinBanks made on page 32 regarding the fan mod and spades/silicon tape fix...I've noticed that some people have white cables as opposed to my black cables so I'm wondering if I should replace the original black cables with heavier gauge wiring on top of the spade/silicon tape and a fan mod?

Both my B20 units from ebay had the black wires and the ends were not burnt yet but they had started turning brown from the heat. As for replacing the cables with larger gauge cables, This I would recommend you do. You are already into the machine and have tore it almost completely apart so why not? The black cables that were in my two units were 14 gauge cables. The issue is the units were designed for 240v not 120v. 14 gauge cable are all you need with the higher voltage. 120v on the other hand you are pushing your luck. 14 gauge cable at 120v is rated for 15 amps. Now to figure out what amp load the heater are using is easy. You just use Ohms Law.

Warning Math Ahead!!

Watts = Voltage x Amps
1800 = 120 x Y
1800 / 120 = Y
15 = Y

That is over the 80% load rule for wiring size, so you should upgrade to at least 12 gauge wire that is rated for 20 amps. For the money I found High Temp 10 gauge wire for the same price as 12 gauge so I bumped up to give me plenty of over head.

Another thing is to make sure all connection are tight... I cant emphasize TIGHT enough, a loose connection is more resistance and will cause more heat to build up.

The fan mod also helps with the heat build up.
 
You may be right about the voltage difference, but 14 AWG is just fine for 15A. The problem appears to be at either the connectors or connector:wire interface. Look where heat and discoloration occur.

The fan mod obviously helps but it is a bandaid for an incorrectly engineered system. It may buy you time but it’s still at the edge of failure (i.e. no legitimate safety factor is created).
 
You may be right about the voltage difference, but 14 AWG is just fine for 15A. The problem appears to be at either the connectors or connector:wire interface. Look where heat and discoloration occur.

The fan mod obviously helps but it is a bandaid for an incorrectly engineered system. It may buy you time but it’s still at the edge of failure (i.e. no legitimate safety factor is created).


You are correct 14ga wire will run technically up to 20 amps but I always go with the 80% usage rule. I would rather be safer than sorry. To break down the true problem of the design, it is the spade push on connectors that are the issue. All electrical connections are points of resistance and resistance causes heat. If you were to change that style of connection to a bolt on connection where you can get a tighter more secure connection the heat would not build up as bad. They used the spade style of connector for ease of assembly and maintenance. I have thought about changing my connections and spot welding the cable to the terminals. This will fix the terminal melting problem at least and not generate as much heat at the connection point. Then again you run into the temp sensor having to be spot welded as well since it is also breaking the power connection. I am not sure if the sensor can handle that treatment. The fun thing is all of this is an adventure in re-engineering the Brewie and prolonging the inevitability of the units dying.
 
Another update for those who've helped me...I have a working Brewie!

The spade connector was the issue as most expected and I was able to upgrade all the connectors and do the fan mod in a few hours.

I'll probably update the software and MCU firmware as well (v3.0 to v3.1.2) but for now I'm thrilled to have all the parts functional and can't wait to get brewing on this thing!
 
I have an unopened Brewie that I’m looking to rehome. Although new, I do not know if it’s working out of the box and is one from the third batch sent out from the IndieGoGo campaign. As such, I’d like to offer it up to someone here! The catch is that I’m hoping someone in the New England area will come pick it up (I’m in Boston). Anyone?

Sorry to knock the subject a little off-course. Mods let me know if this is inappropriate and if there is a better place for me to see about offering my Brewie to the community.
 
I have an unopened Brewie that I’m looking to rehome. Although new, I do not know if it’s working out of the box and is one from the third batch sent out from the IndieGoGo campaign. As such, I’d like to offer it up to someone here! The catch is that I’m hoping someone in the New England area will come pick it up (I’m in Boston). Anyone?

Sorry to knock the subject a little off-course. Mods let me know if this is inappropriate and if there is a better place for me to see about offering my Brewie to the community.

I think this is a great spot PLUS you should add to the 'for sale' section.

For there you will need to post a price (you can add OBO if unsure) and pictures always help!
Also- B20 or newer B+ model?
 
I think this is a great spot PLUS you should add to the 'for sale' section.

For there you will need to post a price (you can add OBO if unsure) and pictures always help!
Also- B20 or newer B+ model?

It's a B20. Do you think folks would want a picture of a box? :p

Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated!
 
It's a B20. Do you think folks would want a picture of a box? :p

Thanks for the advice, it's much appreciated!

Honestly... if it is still sealed up, but a real picture of a sealed box, in your home/garage/office etc... then Yes, i do think it would help you sell it.
Also, since a lot of folks here bought a B20 used from ebay, it may be easier to update software and replace wires than a B+
 
Anybody know what firmware versions correspond to the software versions for B20 (or B20+)?

I'm currently running software v3.1.2 and firmware v7 on my B20...updating the mcu firmware using a raspberry pi looks like a pain so I'd like to avoid it if possible.

Is there a specific software version that's recommended for the B20?

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On another note...has anyone spent much time poking around the recipe files? I logged into the linux back-end on Saturday and found the recipe files. Each recipe consists of a .json and a .brewie file.

The .json is plain text and I've already written a script which converts beerxml but I haven't had time to upload any of the files yet.

I have a feeling that the .brewie file is an instruction set for the mcu (it's not plain text...but I kind of doubt it's encrypted so it's probably hexadecimal code, which could be reverse engineered as well).

...assuming the .brewie files are auto-generated or can be reproduced (hex code) I expect I'll be able to build a tool to import beerxml recipes cleanly.
 
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