FlyGuy
Well-Known Member
Yep, go to the Vineyard's south store in Calgary. They are the biggest homebrew supplier in Alberta.
So I talked to the guy at my LHBS about doing an Innis and Gunn clone. He didn't have exact details but essentially he used the Cream Ale kit with some oak extract and rye whiskey to taste.
I would LOVE to hear how this turned out. I've just started these kits after getting into their wine kits about a year ago. I was quite impressed with the stock kits - damn fine beer considering the cost and effort involved. An Innis & Gunn clone would be pretty sweet.
It seems most people have great intentions on "updating in a few months" but seldom do. Seriously... Keep us posted. I'd love to hear how this turns out. I'd be all over this if turns out well.
Cheers!
I flip back and forth between AG and Brewhouse kits, depending on how much time I have to brew. Honestly, the quality of those kits is as high as at least a moderately skilled all grain brewer. Don't assume that switching to all grain will magically make your beer better.
The faults you have with your beer have nothing to do with the quality of the kit itself (although, I agree you could blame the instructions). Honestly, it is brewer experience and knowledge that determines how great a beer you can make from a kit like Brewhouse, FestaBrew, etc. The basis for great beer is there -- you just have to know what to do and what not to do (e.g., do not follow those crappy instructions).
My suggestion, get some yeast that is appropriate to the style, gain expertise with proper fermentation and packaging, and give the kits another shot. They are a great way to learn the brewing fundamentals BEFORE you make the leap to all grain.![]()
Yeah, I know, the biggest problem with my first batch was very little knowlege I had at that time, not really blaming a kit. Some of my failure was due to equipment I had at that time. I drinked some more of my pseudo-pilsner last night and I decided to damp it. I think its infected by aceto bacteria. I'm not 100% sure but alongside of fruitines I can taste some cidery/apple aroma. This is from "How to brew":
Cidery
"If it is caused by aceto bacteria, then there is nothing to be done about it. Keep the fruit flies away from the fermentor next time."
I was fermenting in 10 gal plastic fermenter with loose lid supplied with the kit and it was hot outside, I remember seeing fruit flies howering around in my closet, they probably got inside. I freaked out and transfered to glass carboy immediatly but the damage was already done. I posted question here about that type of fermentor but everybody said I should be fine. I'll never use any plastic for that matter any more. I switched to glass carboys exclusevly for all my primary/secondary needs.
Another problem was jumping into pilsner style beer right away. I didn't know difference in top vs bottom fermenting yeast at that time, so stick to the ales for first couple batches. I might do another one of these kits, may be a Honey Blond Ale or Prairie Wheat, in fact I have a pack of Wyeast 3068 sitting bored in my fridge so I might give it a shot. The biggest advantage of these kits is that they are readly available at LHBS, for me to get ingredients means I have to order them online and pay monster shipping charges or drive to Calgary to Vineyard to pick some up. These kits have consistenly good reviews on web no matter where you look, so I will give it another try next week with hacked Prairie Wheat kit![]()
I made the BH pilsner, and was quite underwhelmed when I first tried it (about 3 weeks after bottling). Too sweet and flat. After a few months, however, it was quite good. Maybe not perfect to the style (I used the kit yeast, and fermented probably around 65F) and didn't lager it, but eventually it was a very tasty beer. Unfortunately, I had already drank half of the kit.
Give your beer some time. Either it will get better, or if it's infected it will become obvious. Don't waste your homebrew by drinking it before it's time.
As for switching to all-grain - it seems to me (relative noob, I admit) that the problems you have with your beer are not from the wort, but from the fermentation. You would get the same issues brewing an AG batch if you used the same yeast and brewed at the same temperature. There are lots of valid reasons to switch to AG - but if your only brewing experience is one batch from a kit (that may or may not have picked up an infection), then maybe it is a bit too soon to worry about the extra challenges associated with AG. I should also point out that you can never expect a lager to have the nice clean taste associated with the style after only 21 days fermenting.
Finally, for anyone who is a fan of Belgian Strong Ales - I recommend the Dupe-All recipe found on the BH website. It tests your patience - far too long for fermenting and bottle-aging - but the results are awesome. I got the wrong yeast (wyeast 1338 Euro Ale instead of 1388 Belgian Ale) but it turned out fine. Pale in colour, dry in character, obvious fruity flavour and surprisingly drinkable for a beer of roughly 9% ABV.
i've found their grain is old and stale, as well as i can't stand the lme twang
I'm starting my first brew on Tuesday and its a Brew House Prairie Wheat Kit as well. I also picked up a Wyeast 3068 when I got the kit based on these boards but thats all the hacking I was going to attempt with this being my first brew experience.
Based on your (or anyone elses) experience, is there any deviations you would recommend I make from the kit instructions?
Also, I have a plastic fermenter as well that I got with my kit from a shop here in Edmonton. I was never all that excited about using it and your story about the fruit flies is making it worse, lol!
Thanks for the posts!
i've found their grain is old and stale, as well as i can't stand the lme twang
Make yourself a favour, go to the Save-on and buy 6 gal glass carboy for $19.99 Best money ever spent, I got 3 since I just dont like plastic. This will really help with keeping your wort from nasties.
I'm definately going to hack kit this time. First of all if you can, get a liquid yeast or quality dry yeast. I have a smack pack of 3068 in a fridge which will work nicely with Prairie Wheat kit. There is couple LBHS in Edmonton where you can get fresh liquid yeast. Second I will reduce amount of additional water down to 4 liters instead of reccomended 8. I didnt met my SG with last kit by blindly adding 8 liters to the wort. I would suggest adding less water and take gravity readings to be within style or your personal preferance. Also I think I will steep 1 lbs of wheat malt which I have laying around and may be add some orange zest.
Thanks for the tips! I didn't know save-on sold carboys, I'll have to check that out.
And where were you thinking of adding your orange zest? In the steep or somewhere else?
xoltri: that's the same place I got my wyeast smack pack. Think I'll make sure I get the basics down before I try and wash and reuse mine though.
here is my update on Brewhouse Pilsner kit, I finally sampled it today. Its been in primary for 6 days (SG 1.045, FG 1.013), then secondary for 18 days, 21 days in keg (naturaly carbed). I followed supplied instructions to the T and I wish I read this forum before I pitched yeast, oh well, it was first batch, you live - you learn.
First impression - the beer is ....FRUITY, that is first thing comes to my mind. Yeah, nowhere close to clean and crisp Pilsner. I quite sure I fermented it at way too high tempereture (up to 80F) with supplied Coopers yeast. Other than that, it does reminds me a pilsner if not for that frutines that is overwhelming and over the top of everything also I can taste. I would also say that hoppines of true pilsner should be higher than that (35 IBUs or so). But what do you expect from prehopped extract (wort). Dont get me wrong, its drinkable, but just not what I expected. These kits are good way to get your foot into homebrewing but I refuse to waste my time and equipment on something like that. I have Kolsch DME recipe with steeping grains in primary right now (which tastes a LOT better already) and partial mash kit of AHS Belgian Pale Ale both with liquid yeast and I'll never look back. Brewhouse kits are super easy to do, and I bet you can make nice beer out them with proper liquid yeast, dry hopping and good fermentation temperature conrol but I'm moving to AG with next batch. I think you pay $35 or so for kit, then buy yeast, and hops on top. I'm sure now after countless hours of reading this forum I can do much better with AG recipes. It gave me a chance to experiment and learn on my mistakes, get to know my brewing equipment and build some of my own. To all of you who want good advice, at very least, do not use yeast supplied with kit. Its plain garbage, may be its good for ales but lagers or pilsners, forget it. Hmm, I think I'm going to pour myself another glass of my pseudo-pilsnerits my first brew ever, so I better enjoy it!
Hey I'm not one of those guys, I get a lot of info off of the internet so I try my best to contribute. I'll be starting the cream ale kit tomorrow so expect a report back in about a month. I'm gonna use the 1056 American Ale yeast.
So I bottled my Innis & Gunn clone today. I used the cream ale brewhouse kit with the 1056 Wyeast American Ale yeast. I made the kit according to the directions. When it was time to bottle I racked all 6 gallons onto 750ml of Wisers whiskey and 30ml of oak extract along with the priming sugar.
Then to experiment I racked half of the beer to another bucket and added 22ml of vanilla extract to that one.
So I have about equal numbers of bottles, all with the whiskey and oak, and half with the additional vanilla. I'll wait a few weeks and report back on how it turned out.
CTS...
The yeast should be fine - I recently brewed two of their kits with the provided yeast and things seem ok.
As long as your primary is clean and newish you should be good - though I would think a glass carboy would be best for your secondary.
I transfer to a secondary once the initial wild fermentation subsides - then I leave it in the secondary for a few months.
B