Bray's One Month Mead

[loveofrose]

Blackberries are best frozen and added in a bag. Yeast will break them down. You can pull the majority of the blackberries out around 1-2 weeks to avoid too much astringency from berry seeds/skins.

As with all melomels, expect 20-25% loss of mead with sediment (even with the bag).

 

[loveofrose]

Bray's? That's my last name! Where does it come from? Just curious. Maybe family in some sort of way.

Bray is my first name so not likely a relative. You are welcome to the mead family though!

 

[IreWay78]

Bray is my first name so not likely a relative. You are welcome to the mead family though!

Thank you!!

 

[Comfort_Zone]

I was looking through this thread and couldn't find what I was looking for. Has anyone tried using a kveik like Voss or Hornindal for making mead? You might need to go a little heavy on the nutrients but they definitely finish quickly.

 

[mustardgas]

Tried out the BOMM recipe as posted above about 30 days ago. Fermentation seemed to go well, but my brew is not clearing. Am I being too impatient or is this unusual? I made two 1 gallon batches so I could easily cold crash; but I don't want to rush it if I am just being impatient. Advise?

 

[Maylar]

My BOMM's took a month to clear too. Cold crash if you can.

 

[Miraculix]

My cbc 1 tosna finally looks like it's done fermenting. Yeast gave up at about 23%abv. That. Is. Strong. Stuff.

Will back sweeten it with some clover honey and let it settle out for a month when I'm traveling. Will be good, but a little bit too strong for my liking.... But now I know at least what NOT to do next time

 

[loveofrose]

Oak it on Medium toast American oak for a few months. It will help tame the high ABV bite. I suggest cubes or Winestix.

 

[Miraculix]

Oak it on Medium toast American oak for a few months. It will help tame the high ABV bite. I suggest cubes or Winestix.

I really really want to do this but u am only finding chips in the UK

Any idea where I could get cubes from by chance?

.... What are winestix?

 

[loveofrose]

Here you go. My Google fu is strong. A UK winestix source: http://www.home-brew-online.com/equipment-c40/winestix-american-oak-medium-plus-toast-2-pack-p3077

 

[Miraculix]

Here you go. My Google fu is strong. A UK winestix source: http://www.home-brew-online.com/equipment-c40/winestix-american-oak-medium-plus-toast-2-pack-p3077

Uhhhh, thanks. Winestix. Up until today, I did not even know that those things exist.

How many of those would you throw into 5l of mead, given the fact that you are traveling for one month afterwards and cannot check the mead in the meantime?

 

[Scientific hippie]

Use hydrometer to measure daily

You aren't kidding! I just assembled mine last night, and it's down this morning to 1.081 from 1.092 (I checked it before coffee; am I nuts or what?). I'm wearing my magnifying glass around my neck so I will remember to check it later on in the day.

One question: While assembling and shaking it, the fluid level appeared to dip; I kept adding more honey to get it back to the line. Now it's over the line. Physical chemistry is not my strong suit; did this have to do with two liquids combining? I hope I didn't do anything detrimental by adding more honey.

 

[RPh_Guy]

did this have to do with two liquids combining?

I don't think so. Foam probably.
For accurate measurements, check the bottom of the meniscus at eye level. Otherwise it can be deceiving.

More honey simply increases the sugar/gravity, so it just depends what you want. No harm done.

 

[Scientific hippie]

This was a very big increase; at least two finger breadths.
Meanwhile, I cold-crashed and sulfite and bottled my latest 3-day mead (on Day 4). It's aging in the fridge. I'll probably back sweeten it in a few days.

 

[loveofrose]

Are you using a plastic jug? You may have put a dent in it which would raise the fluid level.

 

[Dan_K]

Do you recommend adjustments to the Potassium Carbonate amount depending on OG, or if you are making a cyser or pyment? I imagine the starting Ph can very in a fairly large range. I'm assuming the set amount is for simplicity sake.

I have a batch going, OG was 1.124 with the starter and the Ph last time I checked was 3.05 which is in the low end. It's been fermenting for 11 days now but still needs to drop about 20 more points.

I also heard that Superstition adds "lime" I am assuming highly basic pickling lime to modify the pH of the must up front before they pitch the yeast.

 

[Scientific hippie]

Are you using a plastic jug? You may have put a dent in it which would raise the fluid level.

Nope; I'm using glass. I had not yet added the yeast when I noticed the level dropping. Could it be the "The volume of such a mixture is slightly less than the sum of the volumes of the components." thing?

 

[RPh_Guy]

Did you heat either the water or the honey?

 

[Scientific hippie]

Did you heat either the water or the honey?

No, I don't think I did. I had to shake it a long time. Could it be due to the thing I saw on Wikipedia ?https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volume_fraction

 

[Miraculix]

No, I don't think I did. I had to shake it a long time. Could it be due to the thing I saw on Wikipedia ?https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volume_fraction

If you mean that one litre honey dissolved in three litre water does not mean that the resulting volume of combined liquid is 4 litres but actually less than 4 litres than, yes.

 

[Scientific hippie]

If you mean that one litre honey dissolved in three litre water does not mean that the resulting volume of combined liquid is 4 litres but actually less than 4 litres than, yes.

Yes, that's exactly what I mean.

 

[wkrawul2]

Have a question about brewing. I started a five gallon cherry Mead batch. I have a six gallon brewing pale. I was only able to put in two gallons of water because the honey and crushed cherries took up over three gallons of space. 15lbs of cherries, 15lbs honey.
I'm going to put in 9lbs cherries for secondary fermentation. Once I remove the mead off of the cherries can I add water to get the give gallons I am wanting without screwing up the batch?

 

[mopar440_6]

Well folks, this thread finally got me to make my first post since 2015. I've been brewing with a friend for about 4 years but finally got some of my own equipment and I've been itching to fill some of these empty carboys which led me here. First I'd like to thank Bray for all the effort. I've read all 36 pages and can't believe the wealth of information here. I've never tasted or made mead so I'm really excited about the prospect of making something that doesn't require an entire day.

I'm planning to attempt a 5g BOMM exactly to the original recipe so I've got 1388 and all the adjuncts on order. I'm also planning a 6g batch of cider so I've got 6g of local apple cider incoming. So a few questions I wasn't able to find answers to in the rest of the thread.

1: Can I use filtered tap water? (Unchlorinated well water, limestone watertable, will turn off softener, has been used successfully for many beers) I do have the ability to boil and chill prior to adding honey if necessary. I'd prefer not to have to buy spring water as its simply adding cost and we don't have any proven brands locally.

2: Orange blossom @ $89.99 or Star Thistle @ $54.99? Is the orange blossom really worth the extra $35 or can I save some money and still make a quality end product?

3: Can I bottle mead in swing top bottles? I've got several cases of 1L swing tops but only a few wine bottles and no corks.

4: Has anyone used 1388 successfully for a cider? I'd like to double down on the starter and split between the mead and the cider if possible.

 

[RPh_Guy]

I'm really excited about the prospect of making something that doesn't require an entire day.

Don't forget, you'll need to degas the mead and check specific gravity at least once a day for several days.

I think I can answer your questions.
1. You can *probably* use your water. Different localities all have different levels of minerals that contribute flavor. Alkalinity also plays a role and varies a lot. YMMV.
2. Any honey will do. The flavor of the mead comes from the honey though, so the quality and flavor of whatever you use will surely affect the final mead. I've had traditional wildflower mead, and it's definitely not bad, but I prefer something more interesting.
3. Swing tops are fine but they are prone to leaking. Make sure the gaskets are in good shape.
4. At least one person posted that he made cider with 1388 and it was good.

 

[loveofrose]

Just an update: I’ve been working on a hardcore meadmaking Guide. One that goes beyond the “here is a recipe” and into “this is how to master the craft”.

My question is “How do you want to get this information?” A book? Online website? Something else? My goal is to make it as accessible as possible. Can you folks give me an idea of what is wanted? Thanks in advanced. -Bray

 

[RPh_Guy]

That's exciting! My vote is website.
Although, direct brain transfer would be better.

 

[thepicklebrewer]

I think a website or maybe a large PDF like book would be really useful. Anything with a search function so I can go back and re-read for more information or if I've had a few too many while learning.

 

[Scientific hippie]

Just an update: I’ve been working on a hardcore meadmaking Guide. One that goes beyond the “here is a recipe” and into “this is how to master the craft”.

My question is “How do you want to get this information?” A book? Online website? Something else? My goal is to make it as accessible as possible. Can you folks give me an idea of what is wanted? Thanks in advanced. -Bray

I think a book would be fantastic! I usually get my books on Kindle, but recipe/food books I get in hard copy, as I don't want to spill stuff all over my Kindle. I'd certainly spring for a book; I didn't know anything about mead, and have discovered how much I like it from your recipes.

By the way, I finally found the honey mixture I like for the 3-day mead. I set out to make three gallons, but my small scale couldn't handle the big pot I was using to mix it; I wound up standing on a big scale with a pot and slowly adding honey, and I have a sneaky suspicion I used 3.5 lbs instead of 4.5 lbs. The S.G. has been stuck at 1.020 for two days now (It is now Day 6); should I give it some yeast nutrient? Should I give it the missing honey?

 

[Scientific hippie]

Well folks, this thread finally got me to make my first post since 2015. I've been brewing with a friend for about 4 years but finally got some of my own equipment and I've been itching to fill some of these empty carboys which led me here. First I'd like to thank Bray for all the effort. I've read all 36 pages and can't believe the wealth of information here. I've never tasted or made mead so I'm really excited about the prospect of making something that doesn't require an entire day.

I'm planning to attempt a 5g BOMM exactly to the original recipe so I've got 1388 and all the adjuncts on order. I'm also planning a 6g batch of cider so I've got 6g of local apple cider incoming. So a few questions I wasn't able to find answers to in the rest of the thread.

1: Can I use filtered tap water? (Unchlorinated well water, limestone watertable, will turn off softener, has been used successfully for many beers) I do have the ability to boil and chill prior to adding honey if necessary. I'd prefer not to have to buy spring water as its simply adding cost and we don't have any proven brands locally.

2: Orange blossom @ $89.99 or Star Thistle @ $54.99? Is the orange blossom really worth the extra $35 or can I save some money and still make a quality end product?

3: Can I bottle mead in swing top bottles? I've got several cases of 1L swing tops but only a few wine bottles and no corks.

4: Has anyone used 1388 successfully for a cider? I'd like to double down on the starter and split between the mead and the cider if possible.

If you haven't made mead before, why not try 1 gallon batches? That's what I have been doing. It took me a while to figure out what kind of honey we like; it tends to be a mixture of 2/3 medium amber (often generic supermarket honey) and 1/3 buckwheat honey (dark, rich, delicious, and pricey). If you prefer a very fragrant mead, you might try the different light honeys like orange blossom and clover. I have used filtered tap water with no problem (I did use spring water, although not the prescribed Ozarka, for the BOMM; I want to get the recipe right before I start improvising). I suggest trying the BOMM and the 3-day mead (made with honeybush tea; it's wonderful!) with different honeys in 1 gal batches until you find the right mix. I have used swing-top bottles successfully; of course, being a newbie, mine are relatively new so they don't leak.

I can't speak to cider yet; my efforts at Graff were not good. I have my first four gallons (one gallon made with supermarket juice and Wyeast Mead & Cider 4632, three gallons made with organic unfiltered juice and Montrachet) in bottles; they're not ready yet. I want to taste it before I get my pricey NH juice and pour it into my brand-spanking-new FastFerment and add D47, which the guy at the store recommends for a straightforward cider, the kind my husband likes.

 

[andrewmaixner]

I can't speak to cider yet; my efforts at Graff were not good. I have my first four gallons (one gallon made with supermarket juice and Wyeast Mead & Cider 4632, three gallons made with organic unfiltered juice and Montrachet) in bottles; they're not ready yet. I want to taste it before I get my pricey NH juice and pour it into my brand-spanking-new FastFerment and add D47, which the guy at the store recommends for a straightforward cider, the kind my husband likes.

Someone has a thread here where they used over a dozen different yeasts split across the same apple pressing, and found that Nottingham ale yeast consistently gave the best results. I have used it to good result many times.
Also, I've had good results with the Mangrove Jack's and Brewers Best dry cider yeasts, (actual strains not disclosed)