Bray's One Month Mead

[NeverDie]

I’ve not tried the Omega yeast yet. Which one was better?

I think the sensory effect is more alike than different, though in that regard Voss is considered the weakest. So, for that reason, I think it boils down to Hothead or Hornindal. At least to me, Hothead seems the most fragrant. Also, Hothead seems less finicky to me, but Hornindal seems to work OK *if* you aerate it a lot in a starter first. Hornindal flocculates the best, and that's worth something.

So, those are the trade-offs, which maybe sheds some light on the decision. At the moment I think I like Hothead the best. None of them are bad though, and I wouldn't say there's a whole lot that separates them.

Hope that helps!

 

[loveofrose]

I used to not add sorbate and sulfite. Now I do.
Why? Better control over ABV and sweetness, and better longevity. My "living" meads that were never stabilized start to taste old after a year or so. Trust me when I say, the best meads in the world are dosed with sorbate and sulfite at some point before they are bottled.

Sulfites will scavenge oxygen from your mead, so it helps then stay fresher longer, or protects them from oxygen in the fermenter if you are bulk aging. It can also discourage infection as well from Acetobacter or other nasties. And when used in the proper amount, you won't be tasting them. We're talking 1/4 tsp in 5 gallons, IIRC.

Google "Sorbate and sulfite" and read some of the science behind it.

I’ve never said to much about stabilizing, so I guess I should. Nothing wrong with stabilizing. Sulfite allergy is a myth. No one complains about white wine and they have far more natural and added sulfites than red wine. It is far more likely to have an allergy to some ester the yeast produce or a side product of the grape skins.

Stabilizing does tend to improve freshness if there is poor sanitation or oxygen is introduced through corks, leaky air locks and other sources. It’s an insurance policy. It also makes a mead age differently. This can be good or bad depending on the mead and term of aging.

With impeccable practices, you don’t have to sulfite. Some of the best meads in the world do not have sulfites. For example, Ken Schramm vehemently refuses to use sulfites and is the father of American mead making. His meads are consistently the best, but this is because his technique is impeccable.

For mead makers starting out, its not a bad thing to consider. Over the years, I’ve honed my technique to make it completely unnecessary for me. Your mileage may vary. That being said: If I was running a Meadery, you bet I would sulfite to protect my product.

 

[NeverDie]

I’ve not tried the Omega yeast yet. Which one was better?

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/hothead-quick-and-easy-sweet-mead-cyser-2-weeks.662340/

 

[LittleRiver]

Bray thank you for all the information you have provided! I received my nutrients and 1388 in the mail today, and I'm starting my first BOMM. You are to be commended on your dedication, patience, and helpfulness in this thread (I read the whole thing).

... Nothing wrong with stabilizing. Sulfite allergy is a myth. No one complains about white wine and they have far more natural and added sulfites than red wine...

There's certainly a mixture of information out there regarding that subject, so it's understandable that anyone could be confused about it. Sulfite allergy and sensitivity are not myths. There are published medical studies that show that they are real, and I can add my own experience to that reality.

I don't know the exact amount I can tolerate (because sulfites are found in many places), but when I get a sufficient dose I have an immediate reaction. It's not a high dose either. One beer or glass of wine with sulfites will give me immediate joint pain, it happens well before I finish the glass.

... It is far more likely to have an allergy to some ester the yeast produce or a side product of the grape skins....

My sulfite sensitivity has nothing to do with esters or grape skins.

I can drink a home brew without sulfites and not get the reaction. I can drink a home brew with sulfites and get the reaction. I've done that test. It's definitely the sulfite.

 

[loveofrose]

Perhaps this is my doctor side kicking in, but what you describe is not an allergy. An allergy is a systemic immune response resulting in hives and possible life threatening shortness of breath. An allergy would become worse each time until one could no longer be exposed without life threatening issues. While not impossible, this type of allergy would be extremely rare and would making eating in general a very tricky affair. That is why I specifically stated allergy is a myth.

Sensitivity is a better term for what you describe. Non-life threatening, but not fun either. I’ve seen this countless times and I know it does exist. It’s a bit harder to pin down the exact reason for this.

 

[LittleRiver]

...what you describe is not an allergy. An allergy is a systemic immune response resulting in hives and possible life threatening shortness of breath....That is why I specifically stated allergy is a myth. Sensitivity is a better term for what you describe....

I specifically stated I have a sensitivity. If it caused me anaphylaxis I would have described it as an allergy.

To say sulfite allergy is a myth is to say it's a falsely held belief, i.e. that it does not really exist. That is not correct. The existence of sulfite allergy is well documented.

 

[loveofrose]

Show me the document. I would really like to know!

 

[Maylar]

Allergy vs sensitivity is, to lay people, semantics. We had a cider maker here who said that any time she had commercial wine or cider with sulfites her face broke out in a rash and felt like she had sunburn, and her hands swelled up to the point where she couldn't move her wedding band. This would happen within just a couple of minutes. Most people would call that having an allergic reaction, whether that's technically correct or not.

 

[NeverDie]

It's the vernacular. Even OTC medicine is labelled for "indoor and outdoor allergies."

I've only had one commercially produced mead, but I had some kind of reaction to it that, up until now, I would have called an allergic reaction. That's partly why I'm interested in making my own mead. At least I know what's in it, and so far, no sensitivities either.

 

[LittleRiver]

Show me the document. I would really like to know!

Google "sulfite allergy death", read some of the results, and let us know whether or not you still think it's a myth.

 

[loveofrose]

I have a different approach from most folks on being challenged. I always try to take it as a challenge to better my understanding of things and myself as a person. I think getting defensive on principal helps no one. You really needs to try to think like the opposite view and understand what they are trying to communicate.

I’ve spent a few days reading all available information about sulfites. Including scientific resources such as PubMed and Googling “Sulfite Allergy Death”. I rarely use sulfites yet have no problem with them. For those of you who have read my post against them years ago, I later discovered my problem was with a particular yeast ester, not sulfites after side by side testing.

The only recorded sulfite deaths are associated with a particular restaurant that coated potatoes in powdered sulfites and served them to folks with asthma back in 1985. Honestly, it’s not really understood how those unfortunate folks died. After emailing a few researchers, probable cause of death was due to toxic levels of dosing rather rather than allergy issues. As in most science, mole hills become mountains to secure funding.

What is clear is that sulfite sensitivity (not allergy or at least not a classical allergy response) exist and no one has a ******* clue how it happens. Absolutely doesn’t make it any less real or less a PITA. Like everything in science, not understanding it doesn’t mean non-existence. It just means we don’t know everything. As if that was a surprise.

In summary, I take it back. There is a 0.01-0.25% of the population that has a various level of sensitivity to sulfites. You guys shouldn’t drink anything because all brewed beverages have a baseline level of sulfites from yeast alcohol productions. You should also avoid dried fruit, bread, and any fruit beverage produced. It’s all sulfited. Even if you make everything yourself, you may still have issues because yeast make sulfites naturally (EC1118 makes 50 ppm during normal fermentation). I feel for you folks. It’s a hard sensitivity to get around.

 

[LittleRiver]

Thanks again Bray for all you have done for mead makers.

I consider the discussion of sulfite allergies to be sufficiently covered, so hopefully this thread can get back to discussing how to make great mead in short amounts of time.

That said, this thread will be visible in searches for many years to come, so I think it is important to have complete information available for those who come across this thread when searching for info on sulfite allergy/sensitivity.

...The only recorded sulfite deaths are associated with a particular restaurant that coated potatoes in powdered sulfites and served them to folks with asthma back in 1985....

It is true that potato related deaths have occurred, but that is not the whole story. Sulfite related deaths have occurred from ingesting potatoes, wine, and salad (at restaurants). At least one death has occurred from a home made meal of beef, noodles, and zucchini bread with raisins.

Severe reactions have been reported after ingestion of pancakes & maple syrup, wine, champagne, salad, fruit salad, and even medicines that contain sulfites.

... it’s not really understood how those unfortunate folks died. After emailing a few researchers, probable cause of death was due to toxic levels of dosing rather rather than allergy issues.

It is true that the mechanisms aren't fully understood, which is why it's difficult to test for sulfite allergy. This paper has some good info on that. In that paper you can see that toxic dosage levels were NOT the probable cause of death in the reported cases.

... various level of sensitivity to sulfites. You guys shouldn’t drink anything because all brewed beverages have a baseline level of sulfites from yeast alcohol productions. You should also avoid dried fruit, bread, and any fruit beverage produced. It’s all sulfited....

Dosage matters.

In rare cases people who are extremely sensitive may suffer fatal reactions to even small amounts (one case is reported in the link I referenced above).

Others, like myself, only suffer symptoms when a sufficient dose has been ingested. I don't know the exact amount that causes me problems, but in general I know what to do, and what not to do. Small amounts, like 1/4 tablet campden used to treat 5gal of mash water, causes me no issues.

Dosage appears to "stack", meaning that a trigger threshold may be reached by ingesting sulfites from various sources. I try to avoid ingesting too many known sources in a day.

I know there is some naturally occurring in the beer I make, but that's the reason I make it -- so I know it has not been dosed with a preservative level of sulfite.

 

[NeverDie]

Thanks again Bray for all you have done for mead makers.

I consider the discussion of sulfite allergies to be sufficiently covered, so hopefully this thread can get back to discussing how to make great mead in short amounts of time.

That said, this thread will be visible in searches for many years to come, so I think it is important to have complete information available for those who come across this thread when searching for info on sulfite allergy/sensitivity.



It is true that potato related deaths have occurred, but that is not the whole story. Sulfite related deaths have occurred from ingesting potatoes, wine, and salad (at restaurants). At least one death has occurred from a home made meal of beef, noodles, and zucchini bread with raisins.

Severe reactions have been reported after ingestion of pancakes & maple syrup, wine, champagne, salad, fruit salad, and even medicines that contain sulfites.



It is true that the mechanisms aren't fully understood, which is why it's difficult to test for sulfite allergy. This paper has some good info on that. In that paper you can see that toxic dosage levels were NOT the probable cause of death in the reported cases.



Dosage matters.

In rare cases people who are extremely sensitive may suffer fatal reactions to even small amounts (one case is reported in the link I referenced above).

Others, like myself, only suffer symptoms when a sufficient dose has been ingested. I don't know the exact amount that causes me problems, but in general I know what to do, and what not to do. Small amounts, like 1/4 tablet campden used to treat 5gal of mash water, causes me no issues.

Dosage appears to "stack", meaning that a trigger threshold may be reached by ingesting sulfites from various sources. I try to avoid ingesting too many known sources in a day.

I know there is some naturally occurring in the beer I make, but that's the reason I make it -- so I know it has not been dosed with a preservative level of sulfite.

I wouldn't be surprised if at least some commercial vendors use higher amounts than necessary just to be absolutely sure nothing grows in their mead. It's not clear whether anyone even checks on them, so they could be running open loop.

Is it possible to see the effects on the yeast by sulfite under a microscope?

 

[Blacksmith1]

Is it possible to see the effects on the yeast by sulfite under a microscope?

Got a microscope? Run a batch with none, drop an appropriately made sulfite solution on it and see.

 

[NeverDie]

Got a microscope? Run a batch with none, drop an appropriately made sulfite solution on it and see.

No, I'm holding back until I definitely need one. At present, not sure which brand/model would be a good one to get. Seems like it might cost around $400:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AEJ9FJ4/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

 

[Blacksmith1]

Seems to me if you could find one from a kids set at a yard sale it would do the job.

 

[NeverDie]

Seems to me if you could find one from a kids set at a yard sale it would do the job.

I decided on this one: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/microscopes-for-cell-count.662590/#post-8526755

 

[loveofrose]

I think the sensory effect is more alike than different, though in that regard Voss is considered the weakest. So, for that reason, I think it boils down to Hothead or Hornindal. At least to me, Hothead seems the most fragrant. Also, Hothead seems less finicky to me, but Hornindal seems to work OK *if* you aerate it a lot in a starter first. Hornindal flocculates the best, and that's worth something.

So, those are the trade-offs, which maybe sheds some light on the decision. At the moment I think I like Hothead the best. None of them are bad though, and I wouldn't say there's a whole lot that separates them.

Hope that helps!

Thanks for this information. I am starting a side by side batch of Wyeast 1388, Hothead and WLP002 right now to test flavor profiles in a controlled manner. I’ll report back once I have results!

 

[Miraculix]

Thanks for this information. I am starting a side by side batch of Wyeast 1388, Hothead and WLP002 right now to test flavor profiles in a controlled manner. I’ll report back once I have results!

Looking forward to hearing results! Also on speed, temperature and maybe even alcohol tollerance?

 

[kempshark]

So, I’m sure I could find most of this info in the last 149 pages or so, but figured it may be quicker just to ask.
I like sweet (or at least semi-sweet) Mead and want to make a melomel using mixed frozen berries. If I use enough honey for an OG of @ 1.150 and therefore a FG of @ 1.030, and then rest on about 2 lbs (or more if needed) of frozen mixed berries in secondary....will this finish on the sweet side based on that FG and the fact that the yeast may be about maxed out and not ferment much/any of the sugars from the berries?....of course I can always back sweeten if necessary after the secondary on the fruit, but just wanted to get some ideas/feedback from people with experience doing this already....thanks for any advice or info...

 

[NeverDie]

So, I’m sure I could find most of this info in the last 149 pages or so, but figured it may be quicker just to ask.
I like sweet (or at least semi-sweet) Mead and want to make a melomel using mixed frozen berries. If I use enough honey for an OG of @ 1.150 and therefore a FG of @ 1.030, and then rest on about 2 lbs (or more if needed) of frozen mixed berries in secondary....will this finish on the sweet side based on that FG and the fact that the yeast may be about maxed out and not ferment much/any of the sugars from the berries?....of course I can always back sweeten if necessary after the secondary on the fruit, but just wanted to get some ideas/feedback from people with experience doing this already....thanks for any advice or info...

Here's your answer: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/brays-one-month-mead/

 

[kempshark]

Here's your answer: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/brays-one-month-mead/

Thanks, I’ve read that already....I was just trying to get a little more specific to the secondary on the fruit and keeping the FG high enough for a sweet Mead outcome....figured maybe would shoot for about 14% abv....will be first try making mead for me

 

[loveofrose]

If you want the ultimate fruit mead, make this: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/berry-bomm/

 

[Miraculix]

Thanks, I’ve read that already....I was just trying to get a little more specific to the secondary on the fruit and keeping the FG high enough for a sweet Mead outcome....figured maybe would shoot for about 14% abv....will be first try making mead for me

It actually doesn't matter too much, as long as the yeast is maxed out. You can then add more sugar or honey till it matches your personal taste.

 

[kempshark]

If you want the ultimate fruit mead, make this: https://denardbrewing.com/blog/post/berry-bomm/

Thanks, somehow I missed that one before....that should be a helpful read and asset....

 

[renrutle]

I'm on my third batch of BOMM in half as many months. During the first two I began think about how to keep track of when to make the 2/3, & 1/3 sugar break nutrient additions. I had trouble inserting and removing the hydrometer (fat fingers) and the calculations with my refractometer are suspect. I did some quick calculations on the fermentation chemistry of sugar to CO2 and ethanol and realized that the CO2 produced is about 1/2 the weight of the sugars that are fermented. I should be able to detect this weight loss with my new 5 kilogram digital scale. From other sources I noted that honey is mostly sucrose and is about 90% fermentable. This coupled with a lot of information from this thread and loveofrose I came up with the following plan.

Weigh all the ingredients and equipment at the start of fermentation.
Re-weigh the fermenter every day after de-gassing the mead.
Add additional nutrients (also weighed) at the calculated 2/3, & 1/3 sugar break weights.

Initial weights in grams.

Item --------WT ---- Total
Jug ------- 1381 - 1381
Honey ------ 1630 - 3011
Water ------ 2528 - 5539
Nutrients --- 0005 - 5544 <-- I will be using this as my initial weight. I lift the airlock pior to weighing.
Airlock ----- 0038 - 5582

The yeast weight is included with the water. I didn't get a separate weight for the yeast. I think I really only need the honey weight and the final weight to make use of this process.

1630 grams (~3.6#) of honey in 1 gallon gives a SG of 1.139. (A bit more that I wanted but the HBS got a little aggressive when filling my tubs with honey.) From Dr. Denards notes, Wyeast 1388 will ferment about 120 points of this or (120/139) * 1630 = 1407 grams of the honey. At 90% fermentability this means that 1407 * 0.9 = 1266 grams of sucrose will be converted to CO2 and ethanol.

Sucrose is C12H22O11 with a molecular weight of 342.3 grams/mole
4 molecules of CO2 will be produced for each of molecule of sucrose consumed by the yeast. The molecular weight of CO2 is 44 grams per mole so 4 * 44 = 176 grams of CO2 is produced for every 342.3 grams of sucrose. 176/342.3 = 0.51

Fermenting 1266 grams of sucrose will produce 0.51 * 1226 = 651 grams of CO2.

At the 2/3 sugar break, 1/3 of the sugar has been consumed and 1/3 of the total CO2 has been produced.

1/3 * 651 = 217 grams of CO2 produced. The fermenter should weigh 217 grams less at this point.

Similarly at the 1/3 break, 2/3's of the sugar has been consumed and 2/3's of the total CO2 has been produced.

2/3 * 651 = 434 grams of CO2 produced. The fermenter should weigh 434 grams less at this point.

Caveats:
I understand that I have made a few assumptions not limited to the following.
Honey is mostly sucrose and 90% fermentable by weight.
Any monosaccharides present that are fermented will throw off my 0.51 ratio of CO2 produced. Glucose gives a ratio of 0.49.
I can remove most/all the CO2 prior to weighing. (1 volume of CO2 per gallon weighs ~7 grams)

My 6 step weighing process is as follows.

1. Turn on and tare the scale.
2. Place fermenter on scale.
3. Lift airlock.
4. Record weight.
5. Replace airlock.
6. Return fermenter to counter.

So far I find this easier than having to sanitize, insert, read, and remove my hydrometer.

Weights of fermenter for nutrient additions are:
2/3 : 5544 - 217 = 5327
1/3 : 5544 - 434 = 5110

Fermentation temp on counter is 68°F.

My data so far.

Date - Weight
02-20 - 5544
02-21 - 5523
02-22 - 5503
02-23 - out of town today
02-24 - 5416
02-25 - 5392 - getting close to first addition.
02-26 - 5368
02-27 - 5347
02-28 - 5324 - I added 3 grams of nutrients this morning.
02-28 - 5325 - After degassing and adding nutrients.
03-01 - 5296

Will update with additional weights over the next several weeks.

 

[NeverDie]

I'm on my third batch of BOMM in half as many months. During the first two I began think about how to keep track of when to make the 2/3, & 1/3 sugar break nutrient additions. I had trouble inserting and removing the hydrometer (fat fingers) and the calculations with my refractometer are suspect. I did some quick calculations on the fermentation chemistry of sugar to CO2 and ethanol and realized that the CO2 produced is about 1/2 the weight of the sugars that are fermented. I should be able to detect this weight loss with my new 5 kilogram digital scale. From other sources I noted that honey is mostly sucrose and is about 90% fermentable. This coupled with a lot of information from this thread and loveofrose I came up with the following plan.

Weigh all the ingredients and equipment at the start of fermentation.
Re-weigh the fermenter every day after de-gassing the mead.
Add additional nutrients (also weighed) at the calculated 2/3, & 1/3 sugar break weights.

Initial weights in grams.

Item --------WT ---- Total
Jug ------- 1381 - 1381
Honey ------ 1630 - 3011
Water ------ 2528 - 5539
Nutrients --- 0005 - 5544 <-- I will be using this as my initial weight. I lift the airlock pior to weighing.
Airlock ----- 0038 - 5582

The yeast weight is included with the water. I didn't get a separate weight for the yeast. I think I really only need the honey weight and the final weight to make use of this process.

1630 grams (~3.6#) of honey in 1 gallon gives a SG of 1.139. (A bit more that I wanted but the HBS got a little aggressive when filling my tubs with honey.) From Dr. Denards notes, Wyeast 1388 will ferment about 120 points of this or (120/139) * 1630 = 1407 grams of the honey. At 90% fermentability this means that 1407 * 0.9 = 1266 grams of sucrose will be converted to CO2 and ethanol.

Sucrose is C12H22O11 with a molecular weight of 342.3 grams/mole
4 molecules of CO2 will be produced for each of molecule of sucrose consumed by the yeast. The molecular weight of CO2 is 44 grams per mole so 4 * 44 = 176 grams of CO2 is produced for every 342.3 grams of sucrose. 176/342.3 = 0.51

Fermenting 1266 grams of sucrose will produce 0.51 * 1226 = 651 grams of CO2.

At the 2/3 sugar break, 1/3 of the sugar has been consumed and 1/3 of the total CO2 has been produced.

1/3 * 651 = 217 grams of CO2 produced. The fermenter should weigh 217 grams less at this point.

Similarly at the 1/3 break, 2/3's of the sugar has been consumed and 2/3's of the total CO2 has been produced.

2/3 * 651 = 434 grams of CO2 produced. The fermenter should weigh 434 grams less at this point.

Caveats:
I understand that I have made a few assumptions not limited to the following.
Honey is mostly sucrose and 90% fermentable by weight.
Any monosaccharides present that are fermented will throw off my 0.51 ratio of CO2 produced. Glucose gives a ratio of 0.49.
I can remove most/all the CO2 prior to weighing. (1 volume of CO2 per gallon weighs ~7 grams)

My 6 step weighing process is as follows.

1. Turn on and tare the scale.
2. Place fermenter on scale.
3. Lift airlock.
4. Record weight.
5. Replace airlock.
6. Return fermenter to counter.

So far I find this easier than having to sanitize, insert, read, and remove my hydrometer.

Weights of fermenter for nutrient additions are:
2/3 : 5544 - 217 = 5327
1/3 : 5544 - 434 = 5110

Fermentation temp on counter is 68°F.

My data so far.

Date - Weight
02-20 - 5544
02-21 - 5523
02-22 - 5503
02-23 - out of town today
02-24 - 5416
02-25 - 5392 - getting close to first addition.


Will update with additional weighs over the next several weeks.

Or just buy a TILT wireless hydrometer, and then you'll know in real-time what the SG is.

 

[Miraculix]

I'm on my third batch of BOMM in half as many months. During the first two I began think about how to keep track of when to make the 2/3, & 1/3 sugar break nutrient additions. I had trouble inserting and removing the hydrometer (fat fingers) and the calculations with my refractometer are suspect. I did some quick calculations on the fermentation chemistry of sugar to CO2 and ethanol and realized that the CO2 produced is about 1/2 the weight of the sugars that are fermented. I should be able to detect this weight loss with my new 5 kilogram digital scale. From other sources I noted that honey is mostly sucrose and is about 90% fermentable. This coupled with a lot of information from this thread and loveofrose I came up with the following plan.

Weigh all the ingredients and equipment at the start of fermentation.
Re-weigh the fermenter every day after de-gassing the mead.
Add additional nutrients (also weighed) at the calculated 2/3, & 1/3 sugar break weights.

Initial weights in grams.

Item --------WT ---- Total
Jug ------- 1381 - 1381
Honey ------ 1630 - 3011
Water ------ 2528 - 5539
Nutrients --- 0005 - 5544 <-- I will be using this as my initial weight. I lift the airlock pior to weighing.
Airlock ----- 0038 - 5582

The yeast weight is included with the water. I didn't get a separate weight for the yeast. I think I really only need the honey weight and the final weight to make use of this process.

1630 grams (~3.6#) of honey in 1 gallon gives a SG of 1.139. (A bit more that I wanted but the HBS got a little aggressive when filling my tubs with honey.) From Dr. Denards notes, Wyeast 1388 will ferment about 120 points of this or (120/139) * 1630 = 1407 grams of the honey. At 90% fermentability this means that 1407 * 0.9 = 1266 grams of sucrose will be converted to CO2 and ethanol.

Sucrose is C12H22O11 with a molecular weight of 342.3 grams/mole
4 molecules of CO2 will be produced for each of molecule of sucrose consumed by the yeast. The molecular weight of CO2 is 44 grams per mole so 4 * 44 = 176 grams of CO2 is produced for every 342.3 grams of sucrose. 176/342.3 = 0.51

Fermenting 1266 grams of sucrose will produce 0.51 * 1226 = 651 grams of CO2.

At the 2/3 sugar break, 1/3 of the sugar has been consumed and 1/3 of the total CO2 has been produced.

1/3 * 651 = 217 grams of CO2 produced. The fermenter should weigh 217 grams less at this point.

Similarly at the 1/3 break, 2/3's of the sugar has been consumed and 2/3's of the total CO2 has been produced.

2/3 * 651 = 434 grams of CO2 produced. The fermenter should weigh 434 grams less at this point.

Caveats:
I understand that I have made a few assumptions not limited to the following.
Honey is mostly sucrose and 90% fermentable by weight.
Any monosaccharides present that are fermented will throw off my 0.51 ratio of CO2 produced. Glucose gives a ratio of 0.49.
I can remove most/all the CO2 prior to weighing. (1 volume of CO2 per gallon weighs ~7 grams)

My 6 step weighing process is as follows.

1. Turn on and tare the scale.
2. Place fermenter on scale.
3. Lift airlock.
4. Record weight.
5. Replace airlock.
6. Return fermenter to counter.

So far I find this easier than having to sanitize, insert, read, and remove my hydrometer.

Weights of fermenter for nutrient additions are:
2/3 : 5544 - 217 = 5327
1/3 : 5544 - 434 = 5110

Fermentation temp on counter is 68°F.

My data so far.

Date - Weight
02-20 - 5544
02-21 - 5523
02-22 - 5503
02-23 - out of town today
02-24 - 5416
02-25 - 5392 - getting close to first addition.


Will update with additional weighs over the next several weeks.

Honey is actually almost 100% fermentable. But you also have to account for the fact that honey contains water as well!

 

[renrutle]

Or just buy a TILT wireless hydrometer, and then you'll know in real-time what the SG is.

Honey is actually almost 100% fermentable. But you also have to account for the fact that honey contains water as well!

Thank you for the comments. I am still thinking through the process and any help is appreciated.

I will look into the TILT, but at $135 it may have to wait for my b-day. DM for shipping address.

I agree that the sugars in honey are 100% fermentable but 1# of honey does not contain 1# of sugar. From my research it is 75%-90% sugar. The rest is water and other unfermentable (flavor, aroma, etc.) compounds.

I think 3.6# of honey only contains between 3.6 * 0.75 = 2.7# and 3.6 * 0.90 = 3.24# of sugar.

3.6# of sugar will produce 3.6 * 0.51 = 1.84# of CO2 but 3.6# of honey will only produce (at most) 3.24 * 0.51 = 1.65# of CO2.

 

[Miraculix]

Thank you for the comments. I am still thinking through the process and any help is appreciated.

I will look into the TILT, but at $135 it may have to wait for my b-day. DM for shipping address.

I agree that the sugars in honey are 100% fermentable but 1# of honey does not contain 1# of sugar. From my research it is 75%-90% sugar. The rest is water and other unfermentable (flavor, aroma, etc.) compounds.

I think 3.6# of honey only contains between 3.6 * 0.75 = 2.7# and 3.6 * 0.90 = 3.24# of sugar.

3.6# of sugar will produce 3.6 * 0.51 = 1.84# of CO2 but 3.6# of honey will only produce (at most) 3.24 * 0.51 = 1.65# of CO2.

Ah, I see. You are accounting for the water content when descrbing the fermentability. A bit unorthodox, but certainly makes sense in this case.