Braid OR Manifold?

[sirsloop]

SS braid here... takes literally 60 seconds to make, no problems cleaning, easy on the wallet. If you somehow mangle or break one its a cheap and easy fix.

 

[miatawnt2b]

I've used both copper manifold and braid. I prefer the manifold, though it was harder (but only marginally) to build. My efficiency increased also with the manifold. I am assuming this is because it has a more even coverage of the grainbed than the braid did.

-J

 

[digunderground]

I made a copper manifold for my MLT and even though it isnt circular it works great! I have no problems cleaning it etc... and I usually get 80-85 % efficiency.. I think it cost me about $15 to make, but I also had enough pieces left to make a sparge arm..

-DIG

 

[auto]

what did you use for cuts on that copper?

 

[brewfire]

I use a false bottom and its the best thing
fits perfect and drains well

Vote 1 false bottom

 

[RodfatherX]

what did you use for cuts on that copper?

Probably either a hack saw or dremel.

 

[RodfatherX]

Might as well show my cpvc I made for my 5 gallon cooler. It was really easy and cheap to make. Made the slits with my dremel cut off wheel. And cut the cpvc with a hack saw.

 

[BigKahuna]

I made a copper manifold for my MLT and even though it isnt circular it works great! I have no problems cleaning it etc... and I usually get 80-85 % efficiency.. I think it cost me about $15 to make, but I also had enough pieces left to make a sparge arm..

-DIG

are the cuts up for the photo? Or do you use it that way?

 

[EvilTOJ]

The cuts should be down, it's most likely just for the photo.

 

[digunderground]

they are just up for the photo, I use it facing down. I used a hack saw to cut the holes, I found that the dremmel cut holed about 1/2 mm wider. I figured I could always make it wider if I wanted, so I started with the thinner holes and im glad I did, works great as is!

I bent the tube that connects it to the ball valve by heating a 12" pipe section to "glowing hot" and then stepped on it gently and pulled up. if anyone was wondering?! I couldnt find a fitting to match the angle, and I didnt want to disrupt the "proper flow" of the wort.

** sorry for the huge photo, I will size down next time.

 

[FlyGuy]

SS braids cost $3. If you build them properly, they won't crush. And you can lauter your mash in a fraction of the time for other systems. Hard to beat, if you batch sparge.

 

[Kauai_Kahuna]

Just my limited experience.
Just built my first MLT, and went with the SS braid.
I put a heat resistant tube with slits cut on the bottom inside of the braid to keep it from getting smashed, and ran that tube up to my connection. So far so good, on testing I get around 1/2 cup of water left over and I can't see any water when I remove my grains after I'm done.
I may also make a manifold out of CVCP to see if I get any better performance, just to see if works better for me, or just if it looks cooler. I'm convinced the gadgets and toys are just as enjoyable as the final product.

 

[Bobby_M]

I won't claim to be an expert on this topic as I've only used a braid and false bottom so far but I'll still give you my 2 cents.

If you're batch sparging in a cooler, I can't imagine a better medium than the braid. If you want something slightly more rigid, you can use the larger 1" diameter water heater supply braid. You can also buy the longer dishwasher supply and replace the thing every 10 batches if you're smashy bafoon with your mash paddle. The mash runs clear after a 2 quart vorlauf. I haven't used a manifold for this purpose but I find it hard to believe it performs any better and it just looks like a way to impede your stirring at the bottom of the mash (F it... I have my fireproof suit on).

Here's where the false bottoms fall..... If you are fly sparging, it can't be beat because it's easily the most distributed collection system. If you want to use a direct heat MLT, it's really the only way to keep your mash from scorching (regardless of sparge style). The only downsides I can see are cost and the fact that you need to run a thinner mash (for a slight reduction is efficiency).

I would say that manifolds do have their place, especially if you're trying to fly sparge in a rectangular cooler. The better alternative would be a full false bottom but that's quite cost prohibitive unless you get it from Jaybird.

 

[Bobby_M]

I won't claim to be an expert on this topic as I've only used a braid and false bottom so far but I'll still give you my 2 cents.

If you're batch sparging in a cooler, I can't imagine a better medium than the braid. If you want something slightly more rigid, you can use the larger 1" diameter watter heater supply braid. You can also buy the longer dishwasher supply and replace the thing every 10 batches if you're smashy bafoon with your mash paddle. The mash runs clear after a 2 quart vorlauf. I've run a braid over an inner core of soft copper that acts as a stablizer and siphon tube which is a really nice implimentation if I do say so myself.

I haven't used a manifold for this purpose but I find it hard to believe it performs any better and it just looks like a way to impede your stirring at the bottom of the mash (F it... I have my fireproof suit on).

Here's where the false bottoms fall..... If you are fly sparging, it can't be beat because it's easily the most distributed collection system. If you want to use a direct heat MLT, it's really the only way to keep your mash from scorching (regardless of sparge style). The only downsides I can see are cost and the fact that you need to run a thinner mash (for a slight reduction is efficiency).

I would say that manifolds do have their place, especially if you're trying to fly sparge in a rectangular cooler. The better alternative would be a full false bottom but that's quite cost prohibitive unless you get it from Jaybird.

 

[tdavisii]

I use a braid and it works fantastic.