Boil too Vigorous!

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yellowthunda

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I think we boiled our wort too vigorously cuz when we put it in our fermentation bucket we only had 2 gallons and had to top off with three gallons of water

Will this make my beer to watery?...or will not matter cuz sugar doesn't boil off?
 
It'll be beer, alcohol will be there, the bittering hops will be a little diluted that's all. rdwhahb
 
I think we boiled our wort too vigorously cuz when we put it in our fermentation bucket we only had 2 gallons and had to top off with three gallons of water

Will this make my beer to watery?...or will not matter cuz sugar doesn't boil off?
What type of recipe did you brew?

What was the gravity of your wort at 2 gallons? and did you measure gravity of the wort after you added 3 gallons of water?
 
thats what i regret not doing. i didnt measure the gravity post boil...it seemed to me that the beer looked too light for the style i was making which was a brown porter

Anyways im not too worried. its still gonna be beer
 
arent most worts to be heated to around 180 degrees? Are they even suppose to hit boiling point?
 
1776 said:
arent most worts to be heated to around 180 degrees? Are they even suppose to hit boiling point?

You are absolutely supposed to boil them... the alpha-acid isomerization of your hops drops exponentially as the temperature goes down.
 
You are absolutely supposed to boil them... the alpha-acid isomerization of your hops drops exponentially as the temperature goes down.

oh damn. I didn't bring my last two batches to boil at all thinking they had to stay around 180. whoops
 
oh damn. I didn't bring my last two batches to boil at all thinking they had to stay around 180. whoops

I've got to ask....where in the world did you hear about/read about keeping your wort at 180 vice boiling...curiosity has gotten the best of me.
 
Going back to the original subject of this forum; is it possible to boil too hard?

A day before this thread started I was making an extract kit in which I wondered if this was possible. I started with 2.5 gal, after adding the LME and DME I was just under 3 gal. I had a rolling boil the full 60 minutes and when it finished I was just over 2 gal. Admittedly, I had a small boil over (stupid dogs) but I didn't think I lost that much. Not worried about the final product, just interested for future batches.
 
1776 said:
oh damn. I didn't bring my last two batches to boil at all thinking they had to stay around 180. whoops

Did that before with a hefeweizen. Came out good honestly. I mean beer was made for ages without boiling. You still get beer.
 
2brew1cup said:
Did that before with a hefeweizen. Came out good honestly. I mean beer was made for ages without boiling. You still get beer.

It probably worked for your hefe since low bittering is appropriate to style.

And in the ages in which beer wasn't boiled, hops were not used. Therefore the end product isn't really beer.

The boil temp is just something you need to keep in mind. For instance, I always use more hops than necessary for my 60 minute addition since at my elevation water boils at 206.2°F
 
To the original poster:

There is no such thing as too vigorous a boil, but you will need to calibrate your equipment. For instance: my strike water is always at 15 gallons, my mash water gets adjusted depending on how much grain goes into the mashtun, but it's usually a bit thinner than normal being that the mash is constantly running between 2 pumps, a heat exchanger, the hot liquor tank, and back to the mashtun. My sparge water also differs, but I always know because I've calibrated my system that I loose 1 gallon of water per hour in steam and 1 gallon in trube. I will also loose 3 gallons out of my hot liquor tank from transferring between pumps and each vessel. That means in a brew day I loose 6-8 gallons of water. To make a 10 gallon batch I start boiling with 13 gallons of wort, and for a 20 gallon batch I boil 17 gallons of wort. I do not make 5 gallon batches unless it's a pilot brew, for the folks at more beer informed me that my system would drop down to 65% efficiency if not at least a 10 gallon batch was made. In short, get to know your system and take the time to do the math to learn what amount of water is needed each time you brew. Calibrate, calibrate, calibrate. Not only should you calibrate for liquid loss, but also for heat loss. I know my strike water will loose 7* going from the hot liquor tank through the heat exchanger, through the pump, and into the mashtun. I am also quite aware that my digital controller will keep my strike and mash water within 1* of my specified target. With this knowledge I can set my digital hot liquor tank at 180* and know that the burner will kick on before the temp drops below that of a sustainable mash temp. All of these things are crucial in brewing a consistent batch of beer time after time.

To the second question, the one about the need to boil the wort, a lot of chemical reactions take place during a 90 min boil that can't be achieved any other way. Also the most important of all reasons is O2 depletion and sanitation. In fact I don't think I've ever bought an extract kit or a beginners book that did not give specific directions to boil for 60 minutes. I think the old guy on YouTube is the only one I've seen recommend not doing a 60 min. Boil, and he at least does a 10 min to sterilize. To this day I've never seen his name published in the BJCP winnings section, so I seriously question his techniques.
 
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