Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

has anyone experienced a boil over with this and if so did you take the lid off or lower the power?

 

[cbier60]

I've had no boil overs with this. I believe the pressure reduces the foaming. I have just started pressure fermenting and see the same effect with suppression of Krausen. The only "boil over" I had was when I swapped the dump bucket and forgot to turn the nozzle water back on. I didn't have a boil over because I have a lot of headroom, but I had hop matter all over the top of the kettle. Luckily, I realized my screw-up after ~10 minutes.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

great to hear, wondered about the foaming, I sometimes brew a starting boil of 22 gallons in a 25 gallon pot and always fight the foam

 

[Dockside_Brewing]

great to hear, wondered about the foaming, I sometimes brew a starting boil of 18 gallons in a 25 gallon pot and always fight the foam

I never brew without using Ferm Cap . Cheap easy insurance.

 

[BrunDog]

^^ This! Everyone should use fermcap. Would you leave your house without pants? No, in the same way you shouldn't brew without fermcap.

Seriously though... I use it for my starters... and boil 1600ml in a 2l flash on the gas stove - never a boil over. I use it in my BK - never even a worry. And it has no impact on the finished beer. Get you some! (no affiliation, trust me - I don't even know who makes it!)

 

[J-T]

I never use it anymore. Have the product, just not the need.
Plus "Water, Malt, Hops, Yeast & Fermcap S" just doesn't have the same ring.

 

[BrunDog]

Good point, but get a proper boil-over and you might reconsider.

I do wonder if the side mounted condenser would squash a legit boil-over though. Someone pls report back if they have any experience.

 

[Dockside_Brewing]

Good point, but get a proper boil-over and you might reconsider.

I do wonder if the side mounted condenser would squash a legit boil-over though. Someone pls report back if they have any experience.

Oh it will still boil over with the side condenser. With the Ferm cap its never an issue and I get a very rigorous boil.

 

[AkTom]

One of these days when I grow up... I’m going electric and indoors. I’ll be sure to incorporate this in my build. 2 questions.
1. Would a sight window (like distillers use) just steam up and be useless? It would add a little counterweight.
2. I’m assuming the is nothing in the waste water that would harmful to plants? I can’t imagine there would be. They don’t like good beer anyway.
Thanks for sharing a great piece.

 

[BrunDog]

I’ll vote yes and no.

 

[AkTom]

Thanks. My premise is... throw out a bad idea, it might inspire a good one.
Thanks again for the lack of headache figuring out my future ventilation.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

I'm kind of leaning towards a somewhat sealed lid with a hinge for adding hops and taking samples, still trying to figure out how to hinge that and not have steam leaks any idea's, this is just one example of my idea, it’s not going to be this big

 

[Bimmster]

I'd like to go electric and would definitely add this mod. Could I repurpose my Barbour International 44qt SST pot previously used to boil crawfish for this or would there be some off flavor due to seasoning?

 

[Nick Poggetti]

I'm just chiming in to say thanks to BrunDog for this awesome idea, and to Bobby for working up something for us to buy. Following as I'd love to get one once Bobby has them available. Would love to be able to brew without pointing my fan over my kettle and keeping the garage door open.

 

[ancientmariner52]

I'm kind of leaning towards a somewhat sealed lid with a hinge for adding hops and taking samples, still trying to figure out how to hinge that and not have steam leaks any idea's, this is just one example of my idea, it’s not going to be this big

View attachment 582729

Maybe something like those counter weighted flapper thingies that keep rainwater out of a tractor's exhaust? No idea what they are called or if you can get them in stainless. With sufficient weight and a silicone gasket I think it would seal well enough. You could also use it to check boil vigor or take samples.

Edit: just google exhaust rain caps. Available in 304 stainless, 2" to 6-5/8". Very spendy, though.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

I thought about cutting silicone hose and gluing it to the inside of the hinge, I really don't know what glue would work or be strong enough over time, then a tri-clamp portal will work but those can be expensive

https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp-fittings-tank-weld-ferrules-14mpw-g600.html

 

[ancientmariner52]

I thought about cutting silicone hose and gluing it to the inside of the hinge, I really don't know what glue would work or be strong enough over time, then a tri-clamp portal will work but those can be expensive

https://www.glaciertanks.com/tri-clamp-fittings-tank-weld-ferrules-14mpw-g600.html

Wish I had a pencil and a napkin, it just ain't the same on a phone. Here goes. Two pieces of sheet metal, edge to edge. On top, a piano hinge. On bottom, another strip of sheet metal, attached to one side only. As the hinge opens, the seal strip falls away, as hinge closes, gap is re-sealed. It won't be hermetic, but we're not dealing with 600 psig steam, after all. The condenser will be pulling a slight vacuum, so leakage will be in through the hinge and out with the condensate. I think.

By lubing one side, and applying silicone sealant to the other, you could form a gasket in place. No idea how it would hold up over time.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

I guess that would work thanks

 

[AkTom]

Just thinking... I know, I’m in trouble. This is my keggle, I’m boiling a porter. On propane :-( anyway, if I get another keg, cut the lid the same way, a 2” tc could go right on top. Minus the handle. With a silicone tube gasket, the cut out lid should work? This keggle could then be used for hlt.

 

[Brewbuzzard]

My question is, don't you need replacement air as in a opening in the lid opposite the condenser?

 

[mongoose33]

My question is, don't you need replacement air as in a opening in the lid opposite the condenser?

No, because the generation of steam creates a positive pressure. Think of it this way: how does a steam kettle work? Water boils, and steam comes out of the small hole in the spout.

 

[Brewbuzzard]

No, because the generation of steam creates a positive pressure. Think of it this way: how does a steam kettle work? Water boils, and steam comes out of the small hole in the spout.

Yes like a pressure cooker. So is it true a closed system works better than one with an small opening to add hops? Thanks

 

[mongoose33]

Yes like a pressure cooker. So is it true a closed system works better than one with an small opening to add hops? Thanks

All we're talking about here is a place for most of the steam to exit the kettle and then go through a tube where a spray of water cools it and condenses it. It doesn't need to be perfectly sealed and you can simply lift the kettle lid to add hops if and as when.

I'm going to buy Bobby's system when he gets it in. I'm having a TC port added to the top of my kettle to which I can attach Bobby's condenser. I'm just going to use a standard lid on my kettle, and when the time comes to add hops, I'll lift the lid, add the hops, use a little water from a spray bottle to cool it back down, then put the lid back on.

I expect the vast majority of the steam will be condensed. I'll put a weight on the lid to hold it square and flat, and I expect that to limit other exits for the steam. I don't need it to be perfect, just 90 or 95 percent perfect. If I want even better sealing, I'll find some sort of gasket to stretch around the lid to seal better, but I doubt I'll need that.

 

[mongoose33]

I'm going to add this here as a possibility for anyone who wants to actually create a seal with the lid, and as an extension to what I replied to @Brewbuzzard above.

The lid to my Spike kettle has a flange that holds it from falling into the kettle. I think most lids are like this. Pic: https://spikebrewing.com/collection...s/10-gallon-brew-kettle-2-horizontal-couplers

I went looking for a large o-ring that I could stretch over the part of the lid that extends down into the kettle, found this:

https://www.grainger.com/category/o-rings/o-rings-and-o-ring-kits/hardware/ecatalog/N-mg7

If you look down the page at Dash Number 456, you'll find a silicone O-ring with a 13.475" ID. My kettle's nominal diameter is 13.7" so this would appear to be sized to stretch slightly over the ridge of the lid and seal against the kettle mouth.

I need to do a little further measuring, but I'll probably get one or two of these to test with. They would appear to fit the bill as to something that would let us seal a lid to a kettle mouth, albeit with using some sort of weight on top to hold it down.

 

[Ozarks Mountain Brewery]

this is in stock now, only for 1/4" or less wall
https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=TC15WLF&CartID=3

 

[BrunDog]

I think you will find you don’t need to make a seal with the lid. I would actually argue that it might inhibit the natural convection in case some intake air is needed for pressure balance.

 

[milldoggy]

Look up edge seals on McMaster, lots of options. Used a silicon on for my mash tun for a while.
https://www.mcmaster.com/#edge-seals/=1e3o0i4

 

[Brewbuzzard]

All we're talking about here is a place for most of the steam to exit the kettle and then go through a tube where a spray of water cools it and condenses it. It doesn't need to be perfectly sealed and you can simply lift the kettle lid to add hops if and as when.

I'm going to buy Bobby's system when he gets it in. I'm having a TC port added to the top of my kettle to which I can attach Bobby's condenser. I'm just going to use a standard lid on my kettle, and when the time comes to add hops, I'll lift the lid, add the hops, use a little water from a spray bottle to cool it back down, then put the lid back on.

I expect the vast majority of the steam will be condensed. I'll put a weight on the lid to hold it square and flat, and I expect that to limit other exits for the steam. I don't need it to be perfect, just 90 or 95 percent perfect. If I want even better sealing, I'll find some sort of gasket to stretch around the lid to seal better, but I doubt I'll need that.

Thanks for the info Mongoose. I'll check Bobby's out too. I have a lot of his parts in my brewery. Great stuff!

 

[ingchr1]

Mine is out of the lid and I don't have any steam leakage. The weight of the parts keeps its sealed. Although I don't have a hinge. I just lift the lid to check boil and add hops. I thought of a hinge and/or another port for that purpose but saw nothing out there and adding another port was just too costly for what it was accomplishing.

Link to my build: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/...11-gallon-bayou-classic-with-boilcoil.643196/

 

[cbier60]

The lid to my Spike kettle has a flange that holds it from falling into the kettle. I think most lids are like this.

I think you will find you don’t need to make a seal with the lid. I would actually argue that it might inhibit the natural convection in case some intake air is needed for pressure balance.

Mine is out of the lid and I don't have any steam leakage.

I agree with BrunDog and have the same experience as ingchr1 with mine out the side of my 20G Spike kettle. The inherent vacuum holds my Spike lid on fine.