Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

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@BrunDog - do you have any thoughts on sizing this for 1BBL?

Target boil-off rate of about 2.15GPH. Your calculator figures ~17 GPH flow rate from the nozzle. I was thinking of using a 1.5" TC. Wondering if you have any thoughts on the narrow diameter of the tee. I.E. will there not be enough contact area between the spray and the steam to optimize the process? Or, should it be fine?

Thank you.
 
OK so i just gave my steam slayer it's first wet run. I measured 15 GPH coming out of the nozzle (2 gallons in 8 minutes). I bought the 9 GPH nozzle option.

That doesn't seem quite right. Thoughts anyone?

I'm about 70 minutes from transferring to the BK.
 
OK so i just gave my steam slayer it's first wet run. I measured 15 GPH coming out of the nozzle (2 gallons in 8 minutes). I bought the 9 GPH nozzle option.

That doesn't seem quite right. Thoughts anyone?

I'm about 70 minutes from transferring to the BK.

I got about 12 gallons and a cup or so in an hour with my 9gph nozzle. I thought about trying to buy the 6gph nozzle and see if it would help any.
 
OK so i just gave my steam slayer it's first wet run. I measured 15 GPH coming out of the nozzle (2 gallons in 8 minutes). I bought the 9 GPH nozzle option.

That doesn't seem quite right. Thoughts anyone?

I'm about 70 minutes from transferring to the BK.
Have you checked your line pressure? I believe these nozzles are rated at 40psi. Higher pressure will give a higher flow rate, I think.

I once knew a fellow who was too cheap to buy a selection of carburetor jets for his motorcycle. He would solder up the old jet and drill a new, smaller, hole. Not a reccomendation, just throwing it out there.
 
Last time I checked my house pressure was 70 psi. I probably should have bought the smaller nozzle.

I ended up using this for half the boil and had a mixed bag of results.

It is definitely capable of removing the steam, even through the smaller 1/2" orifice. My boil off rate was only 1/2 Ghr. Usually i get about 3/4 G/hr

However i bought this for the purpose of reducing the brewing odor from the steam. I will say my entire house smells worse than anything I've ever smelled from brewing odors. Even worse than pre-LODO mash smell permeating the house. My wife said she smelled it in the garage before she walked in the house. It's horrific. Almost like someone misted bong water throughout the house.

So in principle it worked but i think i need to send the hot water straight to the drain and probably even chase it down the drain with more water. Something to try for next time.
 
Last time I checked my house pressure was 70 psi. I probably should have bought the smaller nozzle.

I ended up using this for half the boil and had a mixed bag of results.

It is definitely capable of removing the steam, even through the smaller 1/2" orifice. My boil off rate was only 1/2 Ghr. Usually i get about 3/4 G/hr

However i bought this for the purpose of reducing the brewing odor from the steam. I will say my entire house smells worse than anything I've ever smelled from brewing odors. Even worse than pre-LODO mash smell permeating the house. My wife said she smelled it in the garage before she walked in the house. It's horrific. Almost like someone misted bong water throughout the house.

So in principle it worked but i think i need to send the hot water straight to the drain and probably even chase it down the drain with more water. Something to try for next time.
So, nearly double the pressure giving nearly double the flow. I wonder if the extra flow is pulling the odor out with it? On steam ships, we used a jet of steam in a gadget called an air ejector to create a vacuum in the main engine's condenser. Some thing similar might be happening here.
 
So, nearly double the pressure giving nearly double the flow. I wonder if the extra flow is pulling the odor out with it? On steam ships, we used a jet of steam in a gadget called an air ejector to create a vacuum in the main engine's condenser. Some thing similar might be happening here.

I think dumping into a bucket sitting in ambient air vs steam going up 12” into the hood and outside is why. I bet if I piped this to a drain it’d be nearly odorless.

I may have smelled old stale bong water before that wasn’t this pungent.
 
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Welp, my beautiful boil kettle is taking a trip back to Spike tomorrow for it’s new port! Sure beats the price of a new hood instillation. So glad I didn’t sell my old boil kettle because I have to get 3 beers out in under 2 months. So it will have to be garage door wide open until then.

Too bad about the smell. So what was the water like other than oder? Useable for cleaning or watering plants? Or would you not subject your plants to it either?
 
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Welp, my beautiful boil kettle is taking a trip back to Spike tomorrow for it’s new port! Sure beats the price of a new hood instillation. So glad I didn’t sell my old boil kettle because I have to get 3 beers out in under 2 months. So it will have to be garage door wide open until then.

Too bad about the smell. So what was the water like other than oder? Useable for cleaning or watering plants? Or would you not subject your plants to it either?

Glad to hear you are having SB installing the port. You will not be disappointed.

I do not collect the water as others are trying, so I have no odor issues. I run the drain hose out through a sliding glass door and into a large planter/flower bed 3'x15'. I see no ill affects to the plants.
 
Sorry stepped away for a sec.

Yes, keep in mind the sprayer rating is associated with pressure. At the end of the day, the goal is to match the VOLUME of spray water and its TEMPERATURE with the latent heat in the steam. The volume is going to be associated with your line pressure as noted above. For some reason, some homes are fed with 30 psi and others with 75. The temp is an important factor too - hence why I posted up the calculator - so you can get a fairly educated guess. If your volume is way high as a result of big line pressure, then jump down to the smaller sprayer.

I do suspect the smaller diameter tube at some point limits the amount of mixing. Once spray water hits the inner wall, it becomes lost efficiency & "wasted" water. The exit temp of your condensed liquid should be your guide. If its colder than ~175 degrees, you are likely losing efficiency and wasting water.

Regarding the 1BB question by @obeahsf... per above, at some point the tube becomes a limiter. I wish I could tell you when. The calculations assume ideal scenario, where all the steam is mixed with spray water. With a 1BB system, I would honestly upsize to something like 3 inches or bigger. You can have the tube be too small, but never really too big, unless the spray cone never reaches the wall of the tube.

Someone willing to get wet should take some pictures of the different sprayers to see how "wide" the cone gets - this might help give us more guidance. I may try to do it at some point. I bought another sprayer, but it doesnt have a pre-screen, so I needed to install one upstream to prevent junk from clogging the nozzle.

Oh, as @ancientmariner52 said... probably not a good idea to modify nozzles at all - atomization is key, and our hand tools will do these things no justice!
 
Last time I checked my house pressure was 70 psi. I probably should have bought the smaller nozzle.

I ended up using this for half the boil and had a mixed bag of results.

It is definitely capable of removing the steam, even through the smaller 1/2" orifice. My boil off rate was only 1/2 Ghr. Usually i get about 3/4 G/hr

However i bought this for the purpose of reducing the brewing odor from the steam. I will say my entire house smells worse than anything I've ever smelled from brewing odors. Even worse than pre-LODO mash smell permeating the house. My wife said she smelled it in the garage before she walked in the house. It's horrific. Almost like someone misted bong water throughout the house.

So in principle it worked but i think i need to send the hot water straight to the drain and probably even chase it down the drain with more water. Something to try for next time.

That's really odd. I brew in my garage. If I drain into a bucket, I can barely smell the boil odor. If I drain under the garage door, I can't smell anything at all. Got any pics of the configuration in action?
 
Welp, my beautiful boil kettle is taking a trip back to Spike tomorrow for it’s new port! Sure beats the price of a new hood instillation. So glad I didn’t sell my old boil kettle because I have to get 3 beers out in under 2 months. So it will have to be garage door wide open until then.

Too bad about the smell. So what was the water like other than oder? Useable for cleaning or watering plants? Or would you not subject your plants to it either?

Had a slight yellowish color to it too. For what ended up being about 8 gallons i just dumped it down the drain rather than lugging it up the stairs and outside.
 
That's really odd. I brew in my garage. If I drain into a bucket, I can barely smell the boil odor. If I drain under the garage door, I can't smell anything at all. Got any pics of the configuration in action?

No pic but it was as simple as the steam slayer on my boil kettle sitting on my stainless prep table with an old 7G bucket fermenterd on the floor catching the liquid.
 
FWIW, the diy stores sell an inexpensive pressure gauge that attaches to any garden hose threaded faucet. I checked my line pressure last night at 45 psig.

There is probably an adjustable pressure regulator just downstream of your water meter. I don't know the legality of going into your meter box, I'm on a rural system where we read our own meter every month so it's not an issue. I installed the pressure reducer when they laid the lines, so it's my property any way.

Just be aware, if you tweak your line pressure, it will change how everything else works, from how long it takes to fill a washing machine to the spray pattern in your shower. Probably best to change the spray nozzle intead.
 
Had a slight yellowish color to it too. For what ended up being about 8 gallons i just dumped it down the drain rather than lugging it up the stairs and outside.
Oh, good to know. Well I’m ground level so I too will have my hose going to the tree or flower bed like CodeSection.

Thanks @BrunDog for your detailed advice. Can’t wait to get my kettle back.
 
So before I purchase my condenser ... are you finding that 9gph may be too much?

Well, it may be, but maybe not. The resulting water in the bucket was 150 degrees, a slower rate of water would likely increase that. I'm not sure I care all that much, water isn't all that expensive where I am. Might be a bigger deal in other places.

I figured when I ordered that I'd rather have it using too much and having it work well, than not enough and now I need to retrofit another spray orifice.
 
Just took a quick look online, seems there are pressure reducers made for RV water supply attachment. Includes pressure gauge, connects to garden hose threads, about 30 bucks US. Might be the solution if your household pressure is pushing too much water through the spray orifice.
 
I'm only a few feet from a real drain so i'm probably going to pursue that option.
I'm sure you already know all this, but for others who read about taking this to a drain....

If you go this route, keep in mind that this thing can take essentially zero back pressure (unless you can seal up your kettle and boil under pressure). If going to a p-trap, make sure to keep the tip of the hose above the surface of the water. And make sure you don't have any pockets in the hose where the water might collect on its way to the drain.
 
I'm sure you already know all this, but for others who read about taking this to a drain....

If you go this route, keep in mind that this thing can take essentially zero back pressure (unless you can seal up your kettle and boil under pressure). If going to a p-trap, make sure to keep the tip of the hose above the surface of the water. And make sure you don't have any pockets in the hose where the water might collect on its way to the drain.

Correct. You also have to be careful about making sure it's properly vented wherever you tie it to.

For my next test i'm probably going to drop it about 2' down into my washer stand pipe.
 
What were you brewing, witches brew?

Marzen...
Barke Pils 28.75%
Barke Munich 62.00%
Melanoidan 8.00%
Acid Malt 1.25%
14.2 Plato
24 IBU from Magnum @ 60

Mash was nearly odorless as is usual, but the boil was aromatic to say the least.
 
Wife not so happy today. The entire house has permeated with the stench and it’s not going away.
Wow. I still have a vent I installed on the garage wall (my failed vent hood install). I guess installing a basic exhaust fan for odor is not a bad idea.

How long did it take for the odor to dissipate? Noticeable in the neighborhood? I have nosy neighbors...
 
Wow. I still have a vent I installed on the garage wall (my failed vent hood install). I guess installing a basic exhaust fan for odor is not a bad idea.

How long did it take for the odor to dissipate? Noticeable in the neighborhood? I have nosy neighbors...

It's been 24 hours and it still smells worse than it normally does 4 hours after knock out.

I kept my normal ventilation going the whole time. That's right above the BK though.
 
Ditto on another 20G kettle with 1.5" side-mount TC, works fantastic. A little more info is in post #689

What is the port size on the kettle side? Wondering if I could get away with an existing 1/2” fitting if I use a 1.5” tee for the actual condenser part. If anyone has tried this, would be great to hear of your experiences.
 
What is the port size on the kettle side? Wondering if I could get away with an existing 1/2” fitting if I use a 1.5” tee for the actual condenser part. If anyone has tried this, would be great to hear of your experiences.
Of the two commercially available systems, one uses a 1.5 TC steam port, the other uses a 1/2 NPT port and 1.5 TC adapter. So apparently either will work, at least for 10 gallons or so.
 
What is the port size on the kettle side? Wondering if I could get away with an existing 1/2” fitting if I use a 1.5” tee for the actual condenser part. If anyone has tried this, would be great to hear of your experiences.

13/16” for 1/2” NPT.

Used it for half hour and it seemed to work.
 
Wow. I still have a vent I installed on the garage wall (my failed vent hood install). I guess installing a basic exhaust fan for odor is not a bad idea.

How long did it take for the odor to dissipate? Noticeable in the neighborhood? I have nosy neighbors...
His results don't seem to be typical. In fact they seem rather extreme. I can't imagine why, when everyone else is saying there is LESS odor, he is experiencing more odor, the odor is more objectionable and it is sticking around longer. Seems to be something odd going on with his situation.
 
I agree something odd going on. However I do have reasonable good ventilation to begin with. I was just trying to go from good to great. The waste water smelled absolutely foul (think bong water smell if you know what that’s like). I think the smell permeated from the waste water bucket because that’s what the house smells like. It’s only a lingering smell 1.5 days later.

My typical no-lid boil is a bare simmer at 45% power of 5500W with 13-14 gallons.

I did 30% with the slayer.
 
The smell issue is very odd. I have brewed 3 or 4 batches with my steam condenser and drain the condensate into my utility sink. I have no smell in the basement until I lift the lid after the boil. If I place my face near the sink, I can faintly smell dms until about 75 minutes into the boil when it disappears.
 
Would size of batch be a factor? Like if over 10 gallons the system my produce more concentrated odor vs a batch less than 10? Just speculating since I’m waiting on my kettle and condenser.
 
Now that there's been some good experience with this solution, what are people's thoughts about the size of the BK port for a 20 gallon kettle: 1.5 versus 2.0 inches? (Port and tee size, of course). Anyone with regrets for going with the smaller option? I'm ordering very soon (Spike), and want to try and ensure I get the right size. Many thanks!
 
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I agree something odd going on. However I do have reasonable good ventilation to begin with. I was just trying to go from good to great. The waste water smelled absolutely foul (think bong water smell if you know what that’s like). I think the smell permeated from the waste water bucket because that’s what the house smells like. It’s only a lingering smell 1.5 days later.

My typical no-lid boil is a bare simmer at 45% power of 5500W with 13-14 gallons.

I did 30% with the slayer.

If your normal boil is 45%, 30% may produce an aggressive boil with the condenser. My pre/post were 55% / 28% respectively. Basically half.
 
If your normal boil is 45%, 30% may produce an aggressive boil with the condenser. My pre/post were 55% / 28% respectively. Basically half.
What is the material of the waste water bucket? Maybe it is an odd-sourced bucket made from a material which is off-gassing something foul when filled with near-boiling water? Just trying to find something that might explain this unique situation...
 
Now that there's been some good experience with this solution, what are people's thoughts about the size of the BK port for a 20 gallon kettle: 1.5 versus 2.0 inches? (Port and tee size, of course). Anyone with regrets for going with the smaller option? I'm ordering very soon (Spike), and want to try and ensure I get the right size. Many thanks!

I have Spike's 20 gal BK as well and had them put in a 2" TC port. The cost is the same regardless the size. When I bought the parts from using @BrunDog 's parts list that was posted earlier in this thread, I didn't see much cost difference between the 1.5" and 2" systems.

Below you can see pricing between a 2" TC tee vs a 1.5" TC tee to only be $6. By reading this thread, others appear to have success with the 1.5" system. With that said, I chose the 2" system as I know there will be enough spray pattern, volume and wall space in the tee. For me, I didn't care about saving a few dollars on the 1.5" system nor did I want any regrets. Good luck with your decision!

https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Tee-TC20TEE.html

https://www.brewershardware.com/1_5-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Tee.html
 
I have Spike's 20 gal BK as well and had them put in a 2" TC port. The cost is the same regardless the size. When I bought the parts from using @BrunDog 's parts list that was posted earlier in this thread, I didn't see much cost difference between the 1.5" and 2" systems.

Below you can see pricing between a 2" TC tee vs a 1.5" TC tee to only be $6. By reading this thread, others appear to have success with the 1.5" system. With that said, I chose the 2" system as I know there will be enough spray pattern, volume and wall space in the tee. For me, I didn't care about saving a few dollars on the 1.5" system nor did I want any regrets. Good luck with your decision!

https://www.brewershardware.com/2-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Tee-TC20TEE.html

https://www.brewershardware.com/1_5-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Tee.html
Thanks for your perspective and convenient links! I agree, the cost delta is insignificant. I can't visualize a technical downside of going with 2", unless I am not seeing something (which does happen, which is part of the reason why I asked!).
 
Thanks for your perspective and convenient links! I agree, the cost delta is insignificant. I can't visualize a technical downside of going with 2", unless I am not seeing something (which does happen, which is part of the reason why I asked!).

I do not believe you will find a technical downside to the 2", rather, after reading @BrunDog 's posts, there appears to be a technical upside to it. The physical size of the 2" system is not an issue either. If you would like a picture of my BK with the 2" system, let me know and I will take a picture of it and upload it when I get home.
 

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