Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

[Olemissconsin]

... fill the TC fitting with a blank cap during the mash, which is the only time my volumes are anywhere that close to the top of the kettle. Once mash is complete and I've pulled the bag, I'll install the condenser assembly and crank the heat.

This is definitely how i'll do it as well if I go this route although I wish I'd seen this thread before I ordered my kettle . Have you figured out where the TC fitting will hit as far as wort level goes? I think i'm going to go do some measuring now. The only other option is figuring out a way to flatten that stupid bead roll in one section without damaging anything else.

 

[Olemissconsin]

So with 6 gallons in the kettle, water level is 9-3/8" from the bottom, which gives me 5-7/8" to the bottom of the bead. If we can keep the boil off rate to 1 gph or lower then we should be ok? I figure using the 1.5" TC set as snug to the bead as we can get will still net us about 3.5-4" of usable head space. Will most definitely get some boil over and slosh on bigger boils but maybe nothing to crazy? I never do more than a 5-gal corny keg sized batch so maybe this just might work afterall...

 

[stlbeer]

I received the Brew-Boss condenser last week. Still putting the brewery together as it required a reconfiguration after moving. The good thing is I'm now indoors and did not have to put a rather large hole in the side of a 110 year old house for a vent. I also ordered their deluxe accessory port which is nothing more than 1/2" male cam locks (1 female threaded - the other male threaded) as a port. It's going in a keggle, so I should be able to do 10 gallon batches pretty easily.

Should be brewing with it around the beginning of February.

 

[BrunDog]

So with 6 gallons in the kettle, water level is 9-3/8" from the bottom, which gives me 5-7/8" to the bottom of the bead. If we can keep the boil off rate to 1 gph or lower then we should be ok? I figure using the 1.5" TC set as snug to the bead as we can get will still net us about 3.5-4" of usable head space. Will most definitely get some boil over and slosh on bigger boils but maybe nothing to crazy? I never do more than a 5-gal corny keg sized batch so maybe this just might work afterall...

You’ll boil off way less than 1 gph.

 

[BrunDog]

I received the Brew-Boss condenser last week. Still putting the brewery together as it required a reconfiguration after moving. The good thing is I'm now indoors and did not have to put a rather large hole in the side of a 110 year old house for a vent. I also ordered their deluxe accessory port which is nothing more than 1/2" male cam locks (1 female threaded - the other male threaded) as a port. It's going in a keggle, so I should be able to do 10 gallon batches pretty easily.

Should be brewing with it around the beginning of February.

Curious to hear the performance. I have concerns the port is not big enough but they tested it so maybe it’s fine. It’s the spray area that really matters.

 

[Woodbrews]

Thanks to BrunDog for this great condenser idea. I haven't punched the hole in my Bayou Classic yet, but it will definitely have to go below the flange. One question for those who have brewed with the condenser -- because the boil off is so much less, did you adjust your starting water volumes for BIAB? Has anyone recorded the typical reduction in boil off volume (I realize there are many variables at work) when using the condenser?

 

[sasky7777]

Anyone know of a supplier for the mister that ships to Canada? Or is anyone willing to order the 1/2” nipple and mister and ship to me up here? PM me please.

 

[blksabbath]

I received the Brew-Boss condenser last week. Still putting the brewery together as it required a reconfiguration after moving. The good thing is I'm now indoors and did not have to put a rather large hole in the side of a 110 year old house for a vent. I also ordered their deluxe accessory port which is nothing more than 1/2" male cam locks (1 female threaded - the other male threaded) as a port. It's going in a keggle, so I should be able to do 10 gallon batches pretty easily.

Should be brewing with it around the beginning of February.

Let me know when your up and running.

 

[stlbeer]

Let me know when your up and running.

Soon...

 

[Woodbrews]

Assembled mine and attached it to my pot. Need to complete my brewery water hookup before I test it out. My pot now has five holes in it, 6 if you count the lid. I'm getting really good at drilling and punching holes!

 

[jdr01]

This is my version of what looks to be working for others. I went with a 2" weld flange on the cover. It is silver soldered on and seems very well attached. I had to bevel the flange because of a domed lid. That makes the T fitting plumb and not at an angle. A hole saw was used after I soldered on the fitting. A 1/4" x 6" stainless nipple fits through a 3/4" pipe barb. That will be held up by o-rings until I determine the best height for the sprayhead. Hope this all makes sense.

 

[rkhanso]

I plan on building one of these for my BIAB kettle.

My question is - since I have a 25 gallon aluminum kettle, will I want to make sure to use the 2" Tee instead of 1.5"? Or, won't it matter?

The parts for the 1.5" are a bit cheaper, especially the weldless bulkhead fitting - which I have to use since I have an aluminum kettle.

 

[jdr01]

I went with the 2" for piece of mind. I did not want to do it twice if I was not happy. However it seems like the 1.5" version works well, from what others have written.
I don't see why you could not solder a fitting to the aluminium. Do a search for soldering or brazing stainless to aluminium. Ask Bobby about this kit and if it will work. https://www.brewhardware.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=silversolder. It looks like you might already be soldering copper. I found my Mapp, Propane and Oxy Acetylene were all too hot. I found my culinary torch worked great.

 

[rkhanso]

That silver solder kit on Bobby's website says it's not for aluminum
Works on almost all metals you'd use in your brewery, copper, stainless, brass, etc EXCEPT for aluminum. Stainless to copper" No problem.

That's why I was thinking the weldless fittings...or maybe aluminum solder type material or JB weld would work. My brother had some sort of aluminum brazing rod to fix an aluminum boat before. I think he used a propane torch - but that boat was much bigger than my kettle, and would act like a huge heat-sink. But, my kettle is 4mm thick. Probably about the same thickness as his boat.

I was wondering about the size of the Tee due to the size of my kettle being 25 gallons. I'm not sure everyone in this thread building these condensers are using 25 gallon kettles. Due to the diameter of my kettle and the plan to mostly make 10 gallon batches, would I need the larger Tee to take in the volume of steam?

 

[jdr01]

I did not see that on Bobby's website, sorry. My kettle is 20 Gallons and 20" in diameter. Still waiting on some more gaskets and a clamp before I give it a test run. Good luck with whatever you go with.

 

[augiedoggy]

I think a dual use port is too complex. Hose change outside, then you need a tc flange on the inside too onto which the whirlpool would attach.

I just bought something like your describing for plastic conicals and CIP by combineing these.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Ada...5.html?spm=a2g0s.13010208.99999999.270.bufYab

with this.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/281940472188

for the $20 or so in hardware I think its still a plausible bolt on weldless solution.

 

[acarr160]

There is this.
http://weldfabulous.com/harris-al-solder-500-aluminum-solder-kit/

 

[Woodbrews]

Hey folks - I'm looking for advice on how to seal the lid of my Bayou Classic kettle. The problem is that my hop basket keeps the lid from closing completely. I'm aware of @Dockside_Brewing's modification of his hop basket (he cut off the tabs and JB Welded a magnet to it), but I'm reluctant to cut mine up. Can anyone think of a way to seal the lid while the hop basket is hanging from the kettle rim? I've tried putting a piece of hose around the kettle which helps (see pics), but I'm searching for better ideas! Any help?

 

[ancientmariner52]

Hey folks - I'm looking for advice on how to seal the lid of my Bayou Classic kettle. The problem is that my hop basket keeps the lid from closing completely. I'm aware of @Dockside_Brewing's modification of his hop basket (he cut off the tabs and JB Welded a magnet to it), but I'm reluctant to cut mine up. Can anyone think of a way to seal the lid while the hop basket is hanging from the kettle rim? I've tried putting a piece of hose around the kettle which helps (see pics), but I'm searching for better ideas! Any help?

See that little eye bolt on your sightglass? Mount another one of the appropriate size on the inside of your kettle and hang your hop basket there.

 

[Woodbrews]

That’s brilliant. Thanks!

 

[Woodbrews]

Problem solved - thanks to @ancientmariner52 for the idea. I used the eyelet bolt for my sight glass - along with a stainless washer and nut. Only needed a small hole in the mesh of the hop basket. I may find a stainless wingnut to make it easier to attach during brews.

 

[BrunDog]

I don’t think that’s what he had in mind but that will certainly work! Yes you will need a wingnut to remove it easily enough.

 

[ancientmariner52]

Well, what I had in mind was an eyebolt mounted with the eye on the inside of the kettle, but this will work also. Glad I could be of assistance.

 

[jdr01]

I have a couple questions before I try out mine tomorrow. I want to measure my boil off rate. I tried it yesterday but only had non reinforced silicone tubing. Bad idea! The small nozzle created enough pressure that the line blew 3 times. I now have reinforced vinyl.

1. Why does the nozzle have to be as high as possible?
2. Does the nozzle create a vacuum to pull the steam out? I believe it does but double checking.

 

[BrunDog]

Keep in mind the flow is so little compared to what a house supply line can provide, therefore there is no pressure drop before the entrance to the nozzle, which means all your feed piping has to withstand full house pressure. You could add a throttling valve upstream, but I really think this is not a good idea - you want max pressure into the nozzle for atomization.

The nozzle should be high enough such as not to spray out the entrance. The idea is to have a short path for the steam to travel but that’s really not critical. What is critical is the most “volume” of space for the sprayer water and steam to interact. So if the water just sprays on the wall or bottom of the tee, it’s just wasted.

The nozzle is not there to create vacuum via a Venturi effect. The vacuum is created by steam cooling and condensing back into water - the phase change includes a massive volume reduction. So it’s a chamber created vacuum, but without steam, will not create any.

 

[jahlinux]

My hop basket could easily be mounted with a screw through the kettle wall. Not sure I want another hole in the kettle.

 

[BrunDog]

Couldn't you just rest it on the bottom of the kettle?

 

[doug293cz]

Couldn't you just rest it on the bottom of the kettle?

Having the hop basket on the bottom during the boil is not a good idea. I did it for just a few seconds once, and got some light scorching (luckily not enough to taste in the beer.) So, having it on the bottom for long periods of time is likely to result in significant scorching.

Brew on

 

[BrunDog]

Oops, I assumed it was an electric kettle. I s’pose it could be induction or gas, in which case Doug makes a valid point.

 

[jdr01]

Thanks BrunDog for the explanation. That helps. I will adjust the height as needed.