Boil kettle condenser - no overhead ventilation needed

[enormous13]

No

View attachment 553268

Thank you for going out of your way to get that picture, I think I will shorten up the nipple like you did. I found a 1-1/8" long on McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/#4830K171), which is the shortest I could find on there. I'll add this to the list above as well in case anyone else is interested in the shorter option.

@BrunDog thanks for that reminder. So if we could find an "atomizer" spray with an angle/cone less than the current 80 degrees we'd perhaps increase our efficiency/effectiveness?

I'm sure you looked at all the various options for sprayers, but what're your thoughts on something like this? https://www.mcmaster.com/#32885k711/=1b2x7ds or https://www.mcmaster.com/#4759T14

The first is a full cone spray nozzle, the gph would come out to 12-15, but the spray angle is down to 60*, and it's about the same price as the original nozzles. The second is a "fogging nozzle" which apparently gives an even finer mist, gph is 7-12 (40/100 psi), the spray angle goes up a tad to 90*, and the price jumps to $30 for the nozzle.

EDIT: Added nozzle links

 

[ingchr1]

Thank you for going out of your way to get that picture, I think I will shorten up the nipple like you did. I found a 1-1/8" long on McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/#4830K171), which is the shortest I could find on there. I'll add this to the list above as well in case anyone else is interested in the shorter option.

They'll also be available at most any of the online shops. The nipple I used was from a weldless bulkhead.

 

[ingchr1]

If I may ask, where did you find the flex pipe. I can only find 20' lengths and it's expensive. My google fu skills must be low today.

It's a 20" Vibrant Performance Flexible Interlock Hose. I ordered it from Summit, $20. (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-84027).

 

[raysmithtx]

It's a 20" Vibrant Performance Flexible Interlock Hose. I ordered it from Summit, $20. (https://www.summitracing.com/parts/VPE-84027).

Ordered. Thank you.

 

[Hwk-I-St8]

I want to switch to electric brewing and move indoors. I'm seriously considering a Brew Boss to make this happen. I have two sources for 220:

Basement Laundry room. Pros are access to water, possibly a drain (piggy back off the washing machine drain line), vent (piggy back off of the dryer vent), easy to attach a lifting winch to the ceiling. Cons are that it's cramped an aesthetically not pleasing (near the kitty litter, lots of storage crap, etc.)

Kitchen. Pros: not much other than a much nicer environment. I can't access the water from the kitchen sink because I have a sprayer faucet. I can't really use the stove vent because it's just filtered....doesn't go outside due to vaulted ceilings. The only drain option is to drain down the sink. There's no good way to set up a winch unless I create a brew structure.

You guys are all creative. Any ideas how to make this happen in the kitchen?

 

[ancientmariner52]

Do you own this home? If so, the smart move, in my opinion, would be to upgrade the basement until it meets your needs. I've done kitchen brewing, and to my mind it's a last resort.

 

[Thedutchtouch]

you can add a tee to your water supply line right after the shut off valve under the sink, throw another shut off valve valve on one end of the the tee output, the other goes directly to the sink as normal, and presto, you have somewhere to connect a brewery line hidden under the sink, only downside is you'll have to brew with the under-sink cabinet door slightly open to snake the hose/line/whatever you connect out. easy to remove if you move, just shut off the main valve, remove the tee/valve, and re-connect the sink line as it was before.

 

[ingchr1]

@enormous13 looks like I made a mistake, what I used was not 1" as I thought. I used one of these that I had: 1/2" Hex Nipple. Length isn't listed on this one but the one I have is 1 5/8". I'd imagine they're probably a standard length give or take?

 

[enormous13]

@enormous13 looks like I made a mistake, what I used was not 1" as I thought. I used one of these that I had: 1/2" Hex Nipple. Length isn't listed on this one but the one I have is 1 5/8". I'd imagine they're probably a standard length give or take?

So it's actually longer than the 1.5" nipple, but sits the nozzle a tad higher in the tee?? Lol how'd that one work out? Thanks for giving me the heads up though.

 

[ingchr1]

No idea, I must have tried a 2 1/2" at first.

 

[BrunDog]

Thank you for going out of your way to get that picture, I think I will shorten up the nipple like you did. I found a 1-1/8" long on McMaster (https://www.mcmaster.com/#4830K171), which is the shortest I could find on there. I'll add this to the list above as well in case anyone else is interested in the shorter option.

@BrunDog thanks for that reminder. So if we could find an "atomizer" spray with an angle/cone less than the current 80 degrees we'd perhaps increase our efficiency/effectiveness?

I'm sure you looked at all the various options for sprayers, but what're your thoughts on something like this? https://www.mcmaster.com/#32885k711/=1b2x7ds or https://www.mcmaster.com/#4759T14

The first is a full cone spray nozzle, the gph would come out to 12-15, but the spray angle is down to 60*, and it's about the same price as the original nozzles. The second is a "fogging nozzle" which apparently gives an even finer mist, gph is 7-12 (40/100 psi), the spray angle goes up a tad to 90*, and the price jumps to $30 for the nozzle.

EDIT: Added nozzle links

The first sprayer looks good. I should probably get one to compare. I don’t think it has a filter up front, so that would need to be added unless you are certain your supply is 100% particle free (hint: it usually isn’t unless the supply went through a softener). The fogging type may also work but would have to be tested.

Theoretically the nozzle which produces the highest temp waste per same flow rate is the best one.

 

[enormous13]

The first sprayer looks good. I should probably get one to compare. I don’t think it has a filter up front, so that would need to be added unless you are certain your supply is 100% particle free (hint: it usually isn’t unless the supply went through a softener). The fogging type may also work but would have to be tested.

Theoretically the nozzle which produces the highest temp waste per same flow rate is the best one.

Now that you mention the filter (which is listed on the misters), I'm noticing it is not listed on either of those links that I gave, so I'd imagine they don't have any filters built in. Oh well, no biggie, why mess with something that works perfectly well already. Thanks BrunDog

 

[BrunDog]

Well the 60 degree unit might be better. You definitely want full cone in any event. I’ll pick one up and compare. I also selected the SS units because I don’t have any brass in the brewery, though this has no contact with the wort.

 

[RocketBrewer]

Well the 60 degree unit might be better. You definitely want full cone in any event. I’ll pick one up and compare. I also selected the SS units because I don’t have any brass in the brewery, though this has no contact with the wort.

I noticed the flow rates on this one are in GPM, which means at 40 psi you will use 12 GPH. At my 60+ psi, I would consume over 15 GPH. Still curious how it works out if you get one, maybe it's worth the extra H2O consumption.

 

[BrunDog]

I noticed the flow rates on this one are in GPM, which means at 40 psi you will use 12 GPH. At my 60+ psi, I would consume over 15 GPH. Still curious how it works out if you get one, maybe it's worth the extra H2O consumption.

Good point. I just glanced at the 20psi number. My pressure is closer to 30 (I think). Some are much higher, so you are right that it would be a lot higher volume of waste water.

 

[NeoBrew]

Good point. I just glanced at the 20psi number. My pressure is closer to 30 (I think). Some are much higher, so you are right that it would be a lot higher volume of waste water.

It seems like with the addition of a needle valve (and maybe a pressure gauge) you could regulate the pressure at the nozzle. That would allow you to find a balance between water use and discharge temp.

 

[BrunDog]

Flow control is not really the right way to regulate pressure but it may work well enough if enough adjustment range. A pressure regulator is mo betta.

 

[Tartan1]

Flow control is not really the right way to regulate pressure but it may work well enough if enough adjustment range. A pressure regulator is mo betta.

I was thinking of using a pressure regulator also, the same type used in drip irrigation. Water rates in my area are outrageous and every L (GAL) saved not going down the drain makes sense. Regulators are available in various fixed pressure rates.
Something like this
https://www.ebay.ca/itm/20-PSI-Drip...hash=item3cd83954b4:m:m1Mi7zEA5wyaYsx3U8QgQxA

 

[singybrue]

So, @BrunDog put together an item list with links much earlier in this thread for his 2" version, but I was hoping to help anyone looking to put together the 1.5" TC version of this, as I'm compiling this order right now. @Dockside_Brewing linked his build somewhere along the way too using 1.5" components.

• 1.5" Weldless TC Flange - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15wlf.htm
• 1.5" TC Clamp (x3) - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15clamp.htm
• 1.5" TC Gasket (x3) - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15gk.htm
• 1.5" TC Coupling - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15f12nptdouble.htm
• 1.5" TC x 5/8" Barb - https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/tc15hb58.htm
• 1.5" TC Instrument Tee - https://www.brewershardware.com/1_5-Tri-Clover-Clamp-Instrument-Tee-TC15TEE-SL.html
• 6 Gallon Nozzle - https://www.mcmaster.com/#3178k46/=1b1mr7g
• 9 Gallon Nozzle - https://www.mcmaster.com/#3178k47/=1aftzdi
• 1/2" NPT to 1/8" NPT Reducer - https://www.mcmaster.com/#4464k523/=1afu3te
• 1/2" NPT x 1.5" Nipple - https://www.mcmaster.com/#4830k172/=1b2gr77
  • Total Cost (Pre-Shipping): $130.24

@Bobby_M , anyway you can get the rest of these parts, or at least the Tri-Clover Tee? I'd like to one stop shop as much as possible.

 

[cod3ck]

I’m way late to the party, but this is brilliant!! Thanks for the continuous ingenuity BrunDog!!!

 

[Dockside_Brewing]

Brewed again yesterday and the vent system worked flawlessly. I have two beers utilizing this system in the Keezer and both came out great. And I finally finished up my keezer!

 

[RocketBrewer]

Brown Eye'd Ale??? That can't taste good!

 

[Dockside_Brewing]

Brown Eye'd Ale??? That can't taste good!

Delicious!

 

[enormous13]

@Bobby_M , anyway you can get the rest of these parts, or at least the Tri-Clover Tee? I'd like to one stop shop as much as possible.

This would be really nice. Shipping from one vendor, one click ordering.

 

[Dockside_Brewing]

I tried to single source but in the end had to use four vendors. I think Bobby has the 1.5 bulkhead in stock now but you still need a T. Still have to use 3 vendors.

 

[BrunDog]

Agreed... @Bobby_M can put together a kit with different bulkhead, nozzle, etc. options.

 

[Woodbrews]

You guys are an inspiration - I've acquired the parts for mine . . . I'm hoping that this will eliminate the need for a vent hood in my newly reconfigured basement brewery!

 

[Olemissconsin]

If you don't mind me asking, what kettle size are you running? I think this is an amazingly good idea but i'm worried about losing usable kettle space on my 10 gallon Bayou Classic due to side placement and would prefer not to go through the lid if possible.

 

[BrunDog]

The problem with the Bayou stock pot, assuming you have that particular model, is the flange which runs around the inner perimeter at the top. That requires your hole to be lower on the side than it could be without. I use a 15 gallon pot but do 5 gal batches typically. 10 is possible, but would have to mind the height. One benefit of the condenser is the boil-off volume is way reduced, so your pre-boil volume is lower.

Another benefit of the side port... boil over protection!

 

[Woodbrews]

If you don't mind me asking, what kettle size are you running? I think this is an amazingly good idea but i'm worried about losing usable kettle space on my 10 gallon Bayou Classic due to side placement and would prefer not to go through the lid if possible.

I share that concern with my 10-gallon Bayou kettle. I'm going with side mounting, but will fill the TC fitting with a blank cap during the mash, which is the only time my volumes are anywhere that close to the top of the kettle. Once mash is complete and I've pulled the bag, I'll install the condenser assembly and crank the heat. One thing I've not yet addressed is my hop filter, which presently hangs on the side of the kettle. I may need to do the magnet trick originated by Dockside Brewing here.