BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

[The Pol]

I just bought one of those from Ohio-Ed on the forums here and I hooked it up and it's awesome. It's 17 feet long and very well made. I went this route since Square D Homeline series 30 amp GFCI's are $163.

OUCH! I just got a Cutler-Hammer 50A GFCI for $99 at Menards a couple weeks back, thought that was bad.

 

[LKHA]

most of the items here for my PID, SSR box now to put it together will post some pics when done

 

[whitescout]

I bought a couple of these instead...

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

 

[The Pol]

most of the items here for my PID, SSR box now to put it together will post some pics when done

Nice talking to you tonight! Cant wait to see the pics

 

[LKHA]

Nice talking to you tonight! Cant wait to see the pics

rethinking my switch choice at this time going to look for a wet application switch any ideas need two one for main power and for pump

 

[The Pol]

rethinking my switch choice at this time going to look for a wet application switch any ideas need two one for main power and for pump

You can use standard switches with those outdoor waterproof covers

If you could find a suitable toggle, you could get a rubber waterproof boot for it....

 

[LKHA]

yes looking for a wet location switch or will use second box
is what i am thinking I have seen a rotary style cover that operates a standard style switch and all will be good

 

[Yooper]

I'm not sure exactly what you're looking for, so forgive me if I'm way out in left field. But I bought Pol's rig, and what my EE friend is doing is hooking me up to a "spa box". I felt silly asking him what that was, but he explained that it's a box designed for spas. That way it's a GFI build from the box up. He told me that hot tubs and water have similar requirements to an electric rig, so a spa box and those type of services would be ideal for me.

I'm sure there must be a switch like that, but probably not cheap.

 

[LKHA]

the switches are the pump and element switches on the front cover I am going to use the one like in the pix

 

[passedpawn]

LKHA, I use a wet location cover like your suggestion. I have it on a 2-pole switch to disconnect 240 to my rig. Anyway, it works perfectly.

 

[The Pol]

LKHA, I use a wet location cover like your suggestion. I have it on a 2-pole switch to disconnect 240 to my rig. Anyway, it works perfectly.

That is a sweet little solution

 

[passedpawn]

That is a sweet little solution

FYI, all Home Depot including the switch.

 

[LKHA]

FYI, all Home Depot including the switch.

do you know do they have the double cover

 

[The Pol]

do you know do they have the double cover

Sooo, hows your panel mount coupling for the RTD?

 

[LKHA]

For all who do not know I am attempting to install a quick coupler for the RTD on my panel and the connections are I would say approx. a 22 gauge and I am working on coming up with the correct connections. I have emailed the vendor on this small snag in the project. I am working on the lay out of the panel box and will soon start the construction phase. alot of planning but it will all pay off in the end

 

[klyph]

I'm subscribing to this after seeing the Fedex thread

 

[tipicreeper]

For all who do not know I am attempting to install a quick coupler for the RTD on my panel and the connections are I would say approx. a 22 gauge and I am working on coming up with the correct connections. I have emailed the vendor on this small snag in the project. I am working on the lay out of the panel box and will soon start the construction phase. alot of planning but it will all pay off in the end

I'm sorry for chiming in here on Pol's thread. A RTD is a low voltage non-specific metal device. (unlike a Thermocouple) So, any type on quick connector will work fine, even audio type connectors. As long as it connects wire to wire.

 

[The Pol]

I'm subscribing to this after seeing the Fedex thread

Oh, I will have no new rig building going on here my friend. Sorry... this is reserved for the old design

 

[LKHA]

yes just received a email and was told can uses any wire another hurdle cleared this place is like having a genie in a bottle just ask and the answers come in and we all learn

 

[smellysell]

For the 4 wires coming into the control panel, the 2 hots and neutral go to the distribution block and the ground goes to the ground bar right?

 

[IrregularPulse]

Just used an 1 1/4 punch for my element hole and am realizing the 1 1/4 conduit must mean the conduit's ID is 1 1/4 and my hole is about 1 3/4 for where my element needs to go and I now want to throw up because I think I just ruined my brand new F'ing cooler.

 

[The Pol]

Just used an 1 1/4 punch for my element hole and am realizing the 1 1/4 conduit must mean the conduit's ID is 1 1/4 and my hole is about 1 3/4 for where my element needs to go and I now want to throw up because I think I just ruined my brand new F'ing cooler.

Yes, if you are using punches, like for electrical boxes, the PUNCH and DIE are NOT the hole size. They are different, there are typically charts that accompany the slug or punch or die sets (whatever you want to call them) to show you the hole size that corresponds with a certain punch size. They are not the same

 

[The Pol]

For the 4 wires coming into the control panel, the 2 hots and neutral go to the distribution block and the ground goes to the ground bar right?

Yes, that is how I have done it and seen others too.

 

[Hermit]

Just used an 1 1/4 punch for my element hole and am realizing the 1 1/4 conduit must mean the conduit's ID is 1 1/4 and my hole is about 1 3/4 for where my element needs to go and I now want to throw up because I think I just ruined my brand new F'ing cooler.

Ouch. Measure twice, cut once......

 

[The Pol]

Ouch. Measure twice, cut once......

Or measure thrice... I am drilling Blichmans today

 

[IrregularPulse]

Or measure thrice... I am drilling Blichmans today

Yes definitely measure thrice!!

I've source some SS 2"OD, 1"ID washers for $0.82 down the road from work. I'll have to run out and work tomorrow and pick a couple out and have the machine shop guys for them out to the correct size for me. My element will be coming with me to work tomorrow. I'll use one inside and one outside. This should handle the issue of needing something to help solidify the bottom anyway. Need to get a high temp silicone and just silicone them both on permanently. I hope there are enough thread on the element to pass through both washers and still catch the nut......

 

[Budzu]

BTW Conduit size refers to the inner diameter of the conduit that will fit in the hole, I believe. These are called "conduit" punches usually.
If you find a "chassis" or "radio chassis" punch, its size will rather indicate the exact hole size.

for example, 1/2" conduit size will give you a 7/8" hole, good for weldless setups. I'm guessing a 1 3/8" conduit punch will give a 1" hole for the elements.

 

[The Pol]

FWIW...

I was looking at getting a slug set like this to make the holes in my Blichmans... problem was that I talked to Wayne over at BargainFittings about the .90" hole that a 1/2" punch will make. He said it would be too sloppy and recommended the step drill that I already own.

FWIW

 

[Hermit]

FWIW...

I was looking at getting a slug set like this to make the holes in my Blichmans... problem was that I talked to Wayne over at BargainFittings about the .90" hole that a 1/2" punch will make. He said it would be too sloppy and recommended the step drill that I already own.

FWIW

Can't 'pull the trigger' on that drill yet as far as defiling the Blichmans?

 

[The Pol]

Can't 'pull the trigger' on that drill yet as far as defiling the Blichmans?

Oh, they are already being drilled, I have pics posted