BLING BLING Electric HERMS Conversion

[Stile]

I stopped into B3 this afternoon and happen to talk to a few of there guys about your E-Keggle. They seemed really interested in what you had done. Talked about the ultra low watt element... they seemed pretty suprised about that. Seems they are doing some testing themselves. Told them to goto HBT to check it out.

Lol... i forgot to mention the rough grind complaints.

 

[bakins]

I stopped into B3 this afternoon and happen to talk to a few of there guys about your E-Keggle. They seemed really interested in what you had done.

I would really love to see an electric version of one of their sculptures. I know I can build it cheaper, but I do drool over theirs... Who knows I may win the lottery one day (if I played it...).

 

[Gregredic]

I've gotten most of my parts as well. I'm waiting on my 30 amp GFCI cord and the straight thread nuts as well (I wanted to find a cheaper/local version but no luck). At this point I have to determine where I'll mount the control box and then I can figure out the orientation of everything inside. My rig is stationary in the basement so I have more options of where to mount stuff.

Question....since you have went the 30A GFCI cord, what wire did you run to the outlet which it plugs into?

 

[The Pol]

I stopped into B3 this afternoon and happen to talk to a few of there guys about your E-Keggle. They seemed really interested in what you had done. Talked about the ultra low watt element... they seemed pretty suprised about that. Seems they are doing some testing thereselves. Told them to goto HBT to check it out.

Lol... i forgot to mention the rough grind complaints.

Stile, there ya go talking me up...

Yah, you shoulda said... what is wrong with your crush yall??

In my last order in the notes section I mentioned the crush being so coarse....

 

[Stile]

Stile, there ya go talking me up...

Yah, you shoulda said... what is wrong with your crush yall??

In my last order in the notes section I mentioned the crush being so coarse....

Hey, even those who think they have it all down can learn something new now and then. You should have seen the blank stares when i talked about the Ultra Low Density element. They were so quick to toss in the scorching of the wort thing...... deer in the headlights i tell you.

 

[kal]

I went with the ultra-low density elements but everyone I know around my neck of the woods uses just low density elements (and have been doing so for years) and never any scorching. Frankly, I think it's just a myth. Maybe with high density elements but not any of the folded over low-density ones.

The ultra-low density (ripple/folded over) ones are of course a safe bet. 5500W size is perfect too for most people doing 10-20 gallons

Kal

 

[The Pol]

I hope those B3 guys watch my upcoming vids... I can school them? HA

I am in Montreal right now, be back in Indy by noon tomorrow. I will get my "Equipment" vid up tomorrow!

I can keep 7.5 gallons at a rolling boil at 60% with the 5500W element.

 

[conpewter]

Question....since you have went the 30A GFCI cord, what wire did you run to the outlet which it plugs into?

I ran 10/4 to the 4 prong dryer outlet, the GFCI cord is a 4 prong dryer type plug so it should work just fine. I actually only have like 2' of wire from the panel to where my dryer is (Gas right now, but if I ever get an electric one I'm ready now!). The 17ft of cord will come in handy to get it over to the brew rig.

 

[kal]

You need to purchase a SS 1" straight pipe thread nut from BARGAINFITTINGS.com. They are reasonable, and fast shippers. Make it finger tight and it seals like a dream!

Got my two 5500W RIPP elements from Ron's Home Hardware today (link). $17/each

Measuring the screw-in thread they seem to be 1.25" diameter, not 1" (when measuring the threads at the widest spot). I've already ordered the 1" SS locknuts from Bargain Fittings too.

Is your RIPPLE element a CAMCO #2963 Pol? It certainly looks identical to mine!

Kal

 

[The Pol]

Got my two 5500W RIPP elements from Ron's Home Hardware today (link). $17/each

Measuring the screw-in thread they seem to be 1.25" diameter, not 1" (when measuring the threads at the widest spot). I've already ordered the 1" SS locknuts from Bargain Fittings too.

Is your RIPPLE element a CAMCO #2963 Pol? It certainly looks identical to mine!

Kal

Kal, you are fine.

The RIPP element will require a 1.25" hole in the side of the keggle, or pot, as stated in my build thread. It is 1.25" in diameter... yes. The nut you purchased is correct, they are not measured like you are thinking... you did good, no worries.

 

[kal]

Thanks Pol! (One less thing I have to replace)

Kal

 

[The Pol]

SUPER POL..... to the rescue.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

I may have I missed it somewhere in this thread, but has anyone mentioned how long the RIPP 5500W elements are?

I am wondering how wide (ID) of a BK you need to run one of these elements.

Thanks.

 

[kal]

I may have I missed it somewhere in this thread, but has anyone mentioned how long the RIPP 5500W elements are?

I am wondering how wide (ID) of a BK you need to run one of these elements.

Thanks.

13.75" from element tip to the rubber washer. Your kettle will have to be at least 14" wide inside at the installation point. I have two in front of me so I just measured.

Kal

 

[The Pol]

Thanks for measuring it Kal... I am so wrapped up in making my "Equipment" video for my brew rig... I am not getting ANYTHING else done, really.

 

[cyberbackpacker]

Kal thanks for the fast response!

 

[Spine]

Kal, you are fine.

The RIPP element will require a 1.25" hole in the side of the keggle, or pot, as stated in my build thread. It is 1.25" in diameter... yes. The nut you purchased is correct, they are not measured like you are thinking... you did good, no worries.

Actually I just installed a 4500w element into my Keggle tonight! In my opinion the best thing to use to punch the hole (if you can get your hand on it) is a knockout set that industrial electricians use to punch control panels for conduit openings. If you use the 1" knockout, it will make the perfect size hole because it is designed for 1" threaded conduit. I would be careful to correctly measure the thread diameter before you drill your hole because if it is too big there won't be much contact area for the gasket. I just used the gasket that came with the element and so far I am getting no leaks (keggle is sitting full overnight for test run).

Also don't forget that these elements use a 1" straight pipe thread. Most pipe threaded things you can find in home depot are of the tapered pipe thread so finding a nut for the inside can be difficult. I had to take a tapered fitting and run a 1" pipe thread tap through it to open it up a bit more so it would go further up the threads on the element.

 

[Stile]

Actually I just installed a 4500w element into my Keggle tonight! In my opinion the best thing to use to punch the hole (if you can get your hand on it) is a knockout set that industrial electricians use to punch control panels for conduit openings. If you use the 1" knockout, it will make the perfect size hole because it is designed for 1" threaded conduit. I would be careful to correctly measure the thread diameter before you drill your hole because if it is too big there won't be much contact area for the gasket. I just used the gasket that came with the element and so far I am getting no leaks (keggle is sitting full overnight for test run).

Also don't forget that these elements use a 1" straight pipe thread. Most pipe threaded things you can find in home depot are of the tapered pipe thread so finding a nut for the inside can be difficult. I had to take a tapered fitting and run a 1" pipe thread tap through it to open it up a bit more so it would go further up the threads on the element.

Slug Buster (Greenlee)??

 

[The Pol]

I just used the step drill... seemed to work fine. It seals fine...

 

[conpewter]

My step bit burned up (Harbor freight...). I was easily able to drill the holes for dip tubes, but the 1.25" holes were too much for it. I'll be picking up a hole saw tomorrow for the other keg (Finished this one up with the dremel and grinder wheel)

 

[The Pol]

I used the Harbor Freight drill... takes A LOT of juice when the hole dia. starts getting larger.

My ingredients should be home when I get there from this trip

BTW, looks like BYO picked up my rig, dont know what month, but looks like a done deal.

 

[kal]

My step bit burned up (Harbor freight...).

Did you go slow and use oil? I plan on using a step bill on a drill press. I don't want to try this by hand.

Kal

 

[The Pol]

I went slow and used oil yes!!! I also cleared the chips often as I was trying to get the "pilot" through.


I did it by hand pretty easily, a press would be great

 

[conpewter]

I used a step bit and a drill press, plenty of oil and the step bit tore itself up on the 1" step. I sat with my dremel /w grinder bit last night for about 15 minutes grinding the hole out to the right size. I had the press set at the lowest speed (280rpm).

I was planning on getting a hole saw to do the hole in my HLT today, but if you guys have had good results maybe I should just buy another pair of step bits from harbor freight (I can't find any other step bits that go to 1.25, and the smaller ones are $45 even if they did work)

The press did stick a few times while I was drilling, and the bit may have rattled around in the hole some as I was putting it back in, so it could be that I banged up the cutting edge on the bit.

 

[The Pol]

Yeah, I have the TiN coated 1.378" step drill from Harbor Freight.

 

[kal]

I question the quality of some of the stuff from Harbor Freight. It sounds a lot like a place we have up here called Princess Auto. They had the same step bit for $15 while Home Depot wants $50+ for the same size. The HD one however says what it's made out of (some expensive/strong metal - I forgot the name). The one from Princess Auto says nothing.

Kal

 

[The Pol]

Well, the quality MAY be a little suspect... but I can tell you this. It was under $15... and punched all the holes that I needed it to. The one from True Value was like nearly $60. If it will do what I need for $15, I am all over it like the UAW on a bailout!

 

[ChrisS]

Pol, or anyone else that can asner the question,

I am following this thread with the hopes of making the Herms portion of the system, but as of yet I don't think I know enough about electricity to try it.

Pol, in your OP you are talking about upgrading your service to DP 30A and how much power mashing and boiling.

I have a gfci receptacle outside in an enclosure which I belive is a 20A circuit. I have other breakers that are labeled with 15s but most if not all of the gfcis are 20s. Is 20A enough to plug in the 1500watt element, pump, johnson control and stirrer? It is a standard looking receptacle

thanks,
Chris

 

[Gregredic]

ChrisS, you should be fine running a 1500w element, pump, and controller on 20A.

 

[The Pol]

Pol, or anyone else that can asner the question,

I am following this thread with the hopes of making the Herms portion of the system, but as of yet I don't think I know enough about electricity to try it.

Pol, in your OP you are talking about upgrading your service to DP 30A and how much power mashing and boiling.

I have a gfci receptacle outside in an enclosure which I belive is a 20A circuit. I have other breakers that are labeled with 15s but most if not all of the gfcis are 20s. Is 20A enough to plug in the 1500watt element, pump, johnson control and stirrer? It is a standard looking receptacle

thanks,
Chris

Chris, as already stated, you are good to go with a 20A breaker to run the stirrer, the 1500W element and controller.

My MASH side of my control pulls about 15A with the appliances that you are looking to run. My BOIL side runs at about 23A with the 5500W ULWD element, that requires the 30A breaker and switch.