Blichmann burner needle valve with propane

[adamgalt]

Hi All,

I'm building a manifold for my burners to attach to my brew stand and have a question about adding valves. At present I am using propane to power the Blichmann burners and have the stock regulator to control the flow. I would like to add a needle valve to each burner, but I am having difficulties finding them in stock anywhere. I was thinking about buying the Blichmann NG conversion that includes a needle valve and new orifice ($16/a piece), and just using the original propane orifice. I may convert to natural gas in a year or two, so I'll be all set when I'm ready to go. Anyone know if this is OK to do? Are there different needle valves for propane and natural gas? Last, will a needle valve on each burner suffice, or should I also add a ball valve?

Thanks.

 

[BrewDawg33]

I'm in the process of doing the same thing and plan on ordering the Blichmann NG conversion kits and using the original propane orifices that shipped with the burners. I don't think the Blichmann needle valve in the kit is available anywhere just by itself. Needle valves will work with propane or NG.

I've decided to add a ball valve before the needle valve although not really necessary. My reasoning:

1. It's easier to visually determine if a ball valve is On/Off
2. A ball valve should do a better job of completely cutting the supply to the burner
3. Once the needle valve is set, the ball valve can be used to control On/Off to the burner rather than having to reset the needle valve every time

 

[krazydave]

I use the needle valves with NG and it's really not too bad to reset them or use them to turn it on or off. I don't use ball valves and don't feel like I'm missing much without them.
However, I have Honeywell valves on mine, so my off is by turning a switch.

Just my .02c

 

[OleBrewing]

Currently I am set up using the original hose valve and regulator that came with my blichman burner. It is connected to a flared tee. Off of the 2 remaining flares i use hose barbs. 1 goes to the blichman burner with a needle valve. The other goes to smaller bg burners spliced with a barbed tee also with needle valves. It all runs great even though it would never pass code. I figure the gas is hooked up for 2 hours at most and there is no leaks. It's low pressure so it is not like you will blow lines. Take a look at a grill with multiple burners., easy peasy. I did have to solder the orifices to a reducer but that may or may not figure in your build.