Blichmann brewing equipment cost

[PLAYDOHMAN222]

Hey guys I worked up a list of equipment I'm going to purchase this week. I just wanted opinions on my selection. I wanted to get some good equipment for home brewing 5-10 gallon AG batches so I can work on recipes and put together some good beers.

I just wanted opinions on my selection as well as the cost I'm getting it for and if you know anywhere that may sell the equipment at a better value.

My list:

-Blichmann boil maker 15 gal brew kettle with glass sight, thermometer, quick connect, and hop blocker for $493.97

-Blichmann floor burner with 24" leg extensions for $190.00

-Blichmann thermominator for $200

-Fermenters Favorites AG starter kit with 2 10 gallon coolers and false bottom for $200


This is my plan so far let me know what you think.

Also I considered making my own hot liquor cooler and mash tun cooler with false bottom and brass ball valves. From what I see making the two would cost me about $60 for the 2 coolers $70 for the valves and $45 for false bottom for a total of about $180 with tac. So my thought process was that for $20 more I could not have to go through the hassle of building it. What do you guys think?

Thanks

Shawn

 

[Beek]

How much beer have you brewed? If it's none or very little, those Blichmann things are pretty pricey. I'm currently building my ultimate electric setup and still not using Blichmann or anything as pricey. They are nice, very nice. But it's a ton of cash to drop on some pots and burners. Just my two cents. If you want to spend your money on something like a Blichmann, go for it.

 

[paperairplane]

So you plan to heat water in boil kettle and move to HLT cooler, then gravity that to mash. Then sparge same way into boil kettle.

Maybe delete the second cooler HLT and get a cheap turkey fryer and pot so you can direct fire your HLT?

Blichman's nice - way out of my budget, but nice.

Looks like a nice setup - going to get a pump for the therminator? Not sure about gravity via plate chiller.

 

[Beek]

I have heard of people gravity feeding a plate chiller, but I think the BK valve would have to be wide open to get enough pressure, thus not cooling enough because too much is going through. A Chugger or March with a valve on the outlet is definitely best for a plate chiller.

 

[Iceman2197]

I recently added the blichmann floor burner to my set up and it was worth every penny. I was using a turkey frying burner for the last 3 years and can't believe I waited this long. It cut cuts down my brew day by quite a bit. If you don't all ready have a grain mill that's something to look into, just got my monster mill and wow, have been using a corona grinder and it has worked fine but I'm much happier with the the monster mill and it's a better crush IMO. And the crush from my LHBS sucks.

 

[kcmobrewer]

I hated my plate chiller. To each their own but it seemed like I could never get all the water out of it. Replaced with a convoluted cfc and couldn't be happier. Completely clear in 5 mins.

Pump is definitely a necessity in my opinion though. If you're gonna put that kind of money into it, do it right.

Also I have heard nightmare stories about that hop blocker. You should check out www.arborfab.com. Love my hop spider from them. Got it custom made and couldn't be happier.


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[PLAYDOHMAN222]

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm really not concerned about the cost so much. As long as I'm getting good quality that will last and produces good beer then im happy. I have been told about alternative products including a bayou banjo burner, cheaper brand chill plates like duda, and I've also been told that I could always modify a regular stainless steel pot and add everything the Blichmann has for cheaper.

As far as the kettle goes, I know I can save a good chunk of change on modifying a pot but from what I seen online they just don't look like they are of as good quality as Blichmann. I could be wrong and if anybody had an opinion I would love to hear their take on modified pots vs Blichmann.

As far as the plates go I've done some research on people's experiences with other plates and the stats they give also don't seem to compete with the therminator.

The only thing that I feel might be worth switching out would be the Blichmann burner for the bayou burner. Its the only piece of equipment that seems to be very close in quality as far as BTUs and make, but is less costly.

What do you guys think?

Also @kcmobrewer I've never heard of arborfab until now. Looks like it's pretty good stuff. If you had to rate your hop spider from 1-10, 1 being clogging up your kettle and 10 being zero hop debris what would you rate it? Also what kind of nightmares have you heard about the hop blocker?

 

[PLAYDOHMAN222]

Also as far as good quality pumps go that are easy to clean and sanitize, and last long time what would you guys recommend?

 

[kcmobrewer]

I have very little trub end up in my fermentor with a pickup tube. Maybe a 2 out of 10. 300 micron screen. I have just heard that people have to slow their pump speed down to a crawl with the hop spider and most of the time just end up losing prime. Is it really worth that big of a pain in the ass just to save a little bit of trub making it to the fermentor? Not to me, but to each their own.

I have a Blichmann burner. I can't speak on a banjo burner but I love the Blichmann. Super quiet and I get at least 6-7 brews out of a 20lb propane tank.

I can't speak on the pots as I don't have one. They look very nice though. I got my kettle from www.spikebrewing.com. I'm happy with it but honestly I have been looking at Stout tanks for a new kettle. I really like the tri clover design. The tangential inlet looks very nice as well.

For a pump I have a steel head chugger. The only thing I would get different is getting the one with the 3/4" center inlet. Otherwise zero complaints, love it. I've beat the hell out of mine with not so much as a hiccup.


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[roper4092]

I have Blichmann stuff, and while yes, it is expensive, it'll last a lifetime. Then again, I built that up over a period of 18 years. BUT...if you are in for the long haul and do not mind the initial capital investment, I have nothing but good things to say about Blichmann stuff.

I use gravity feed for the chilling part of the process through a Hop Rocket and then through the plate chiller with zero problems. You do not need a pump for this. I like using gravity for this because is is slow, methodical, and very controllable. I have never had a problem using gravity feed.

I've recently started using a pump for RIMS, and while I have only used it a few time, I have the Chugger steel head as well, and it has worked perfectly.

I have the HopBlocker as well, but haven't had the courage to use it without using hop bags or a hop spider. It is good at keeping out the rest of the hop residue and the hop break while still allowing the pot to drain completely. Be aware also that the HopBlocker makes it difficult to get a good whirlpool going if you go the simple route and just use a spoon to stir the pot. It gets in the way. Big time.

Good luck with whatever you decide, and have fun!

 

[Zeppman]

If you're planning on doing 10gal batches, get a 20gal pot. Accounting for boil off and trub loss, you'll be starting your boil with 12-14gal in the BK. That's a recipe for boil overs.

 

[Dog House Brew]

There are many options out there. I use 2-25 gallon kettles and 120qt Coleman Extreme MLT. One home fabricated and one Mega Pot for HLT. I really like the tri-clad bottom. Compared to my home fabricated kettle with a 10ga bottom, the tri-clad Mega Pot kicks its butt in heating times. Blingman I never considered. I would get something tri-clamp design if I were starting over. All welded construction and made to my specs. I wouldn't want any threaded fittings. I personally would not go smaller than 25 gallon because of flexibility. Buy once! I generally do 13 gallon batches. Fills 2 kegs and one can age, one on tap. I made the DIY hopspider that is 8" in diameter. You want something that is easy to stuff hops in. Probably the best brewery purchase I've made. Batches with several oz of hops, no problem. No way I would do gravity. Money not being an issue, PUMP it. Helps push through the chiller. I made the DIY CFC. I would buy a stainless Chillzilla CFC. Chills almost as well as copper, and no issue with anything stainless. Single tier structure and you are rocking. All my opinions of course. If I were not into DIY, I would look at buying one out of the box from one of the supporting companies here. Lots of options, take some time and good luck. I like your buy once and the best.

 

[Gameface]

Thanks for all the info guys. I'm really not concerned about the cost so much. As long as I'm getting good quality that will last and produces good beer then im happy...

I'm not trying to be a jerk here but it's not the equipment that produces good beer or not.

And as far as that's concerned good beer vs average or below beer is "made" during fermentation. It's all about the yeast and temperature control. If your budget is basically unlimited or at least not very restricted then in addition to your brewing gear give some thought to a fermentation chamber and nice fermentors.

I really like the Blichmann stuff I have. I have a 15G I use as a HLT and a 20G I sue to boil 10G batches.

As someone else mentioned if you're going to be making 10g batches you're gonna really want a 20G kettle. No two ways about it. You could struggle with a 15G and get by, but why do that to yourself?

I've seen the 2 cooler set-ups for sale and I don't get it. I mean, I get it, I know how that set-up works, but I just don't get why anyone would do it that way. Much better to direct fire the HLT, IMO.

 

[TimmyWit]

+1 for budgeting for some temp control

As others have mentioned, you will want a 20G pot for the 10G batches. Keep in mind that the Blichmann thermometer is too high in a 20G kettle for a 5G batch without modification. They do offer a thermometer plug so that you can move it lower. If you want to do both 5G and 10G batches without modifying the kettle, you might consider the 20G kettle from a different manufacturer such as Spike. Of course, you could always just use a separate thermometer with the 5G batches if you go for the Blichmann.

I own a Blichmann 10G kettle and I love it. I am happy with 5G batches because I get to brew more frequently and I get more variety. But, I can't deny that it would be nice to have the flexibility to do a 10G batch.

 

[CA_Mouse]

I don't own Blichmann equipment and can't see spending that kind of money. I have an 11 gallon HLT and a 16 gallon BK Bayou Classics that serve me very well. I built my own MT from an extreme cooler and use a Chugger pump to move it around with and a CFC to chill, all total I spent less than $600.

I agree that it isn't the equipment that makes outstanding beer, it is the brewer and the process. If you want good beer, then start with proper fermentation, even plastic buckets work fine if you can control the fermentation temperature.

 

[CA_Mouse]

you will want a 20G pot for the 10G batches. Keep in mind that the Blichmann thermometer is too high in a 20G kettle for a 5G

Not to pick on the Blichmann, I just have never understood why there is a need for a thermometer on a BK... Unless you are mashing in it, for BIAB, or using it as an HLT, why would you care about the temp in the BK? it is either boiling or it isn't...

 

[Gameface]

Not to pick on the Blichmann, I just have never understood why there is a need for a thermometer on a BK... Unless you are mashing in it, for BIAB, or using it as an HLT, why would you care about the temp in the BK? it is either boiling or it isn't...

I agree that a thermometer isn't at all necessary on a BK but I do use it when I'm chilling to decide when to transfer.

 

[roper4092]

Not to pick on the Blichmann, I just have never understood why there is a need for a thermometer on a BK... Unless you are mashing in it, for BIAB, or using it as an HLT, why would you care about the temp in the BK? it is either boiling or it isn't...

I use it chiefly to let me know when I am getting close to boil and how much time I have before it starts. I also use it to monitor temp after the boil. I let it sit to let the convections stop after stirring a bit to whirlpool before trying to cool. I keep an eye on it to make sure it does not go below 160, as that is when bacteria can become an issue. I usually start the chilling process when it's about 180, based on the time it takes for all the muck to settle to the bottom. I use a HopBlocker which recommends this resting period before chilling. I actually find the thermometer on the BK pretty useful.