Black Mold in Must?

[Chipperjones]

Hello, I'm making mead for the first time (also first attempt at brewing in general). I bought some raw honey from a local apiary I used to work at. I mixed a campden tablet in a mug of water and disinfected everything to the best I knew how (dipping everything in it or swishing it in my bucket). I did not boil the honey as I was told thats a dumb thing to do. Now 5 days later we were going to transfer the must into a glass jug (I'm only making 1 gallon). There appears to be black mold however. I am also told that there is some red and white molds on the lid (I'm not there right now as I was called away to work for a week). Normally I would try and siphon the middle out and give see what happens, but as I'm not home and this is my first attempt, the fams decided to chuck it. Does anyone have any tips for my next attempt? Am I disinfecting wrong? Would siphoning from the middle work or just avoid it since its black mold? Should I have put a campden tablet in with my must?
I have a photo and a video, though I cannot figure out how to post the video. I'm told that the mold is a half inch to an inch deep.

 

[Chipperjones]

Its roughly a gallon of must in a two gallon bucket. I bought the kit online.

 

[RPh_Guy]

Dumping it was the right move.

Avoid mold by pitching healthy yeast.

 

[CKuhns]

Campden is probably not the best choice for sanitizing your equipment.

For sanitizing your equipment consider using Star San, Or a Bleach solution, dilute and soak just like you would for cleaning and rinse with fresh clean water. EVERYTHING that touches the must should be sanitized.

Campden if you choose to use it works for the possible wild yeasts, molds and perhaps bacteria in the Must from the raw honey after water and honey are mixed in your sanitized pail or jug. Be sure to add the tab and wait 24 hours prior to yeast pitch.

Then as RPh_Guy suggests a good healthy yeast to combat anything that might have slipped past.

 

[Chipperjones]

1. I've read mixed things about campden now? Some say its perfectly fine for sanitizing equipment as long as you use a concentrated solution (my kit from homebrew.org provided it and stated that). Also, I've read a lot of people saying absolutely no to bleach solutions. Would you disagree with either of these and why?
2. Do I add just one tab per gallon and then leave my must in the bucket for a day at room temp or what?
3. For yeast, I used a wine yeast provided by the kit (I cant remember the name of it off the top of my head). Its dry little balls, I added a teaspoon straight to my bucket of warm must. I didnt stir it because my uncle who makes wine said too much oxygen is bad.
4. I noticed that the yeast hadnt seemed to activate now when I dumped the bucket. Should I have stirred the bucket when I dumped the dry yeast in? Should I have pre-cultivated the yeast before adding it (If so, do you have suggestions on how I do that?)

 

[CKuhns]

1. Campden I think is typically designed for ensuring anything the must carries is knocked own. I'm not saying it cant be used for sanitizing but I believe there are better options available. Bleach IMO is fine as long as you follow the dilution recommendations and thoroughly rinse with clean fresh water. With that said Star San is my preferred sanitizer as it does not require a rinse as long as you dump the liquid after the soak.

2. Yep

3&4. Dry yeast if healthy works well just dumping it in but really no way to tell until it reproduces enough to show active fermentation. (Often referred to as lag) . I prefer to start dry yeast 24 hours prior to pitching. Kind of lines up with he campden 24 hour timing for the must pretty well. Just add a little go-Ferm to a small container with some of your must and the yeast, (Room temp is fine just be sure your yeast have been out of the fridge for a couple hours or you could shock them and kill a bunch) stir and cover with a piece of aluminum foil to keep the bugs out. It creates billions of yeast in 24 hours and in 30 - 45 minutes you should be able to see if the yeast are viable as you should see it fermenting and making more yeast.

As it relates to air - Air is beneficial in the early fermentation process. Your yeast are in the aerobic phase and require air to be healthy and reproduce (Down to about 1/3 sugar break). I always shake the dickens out of it after pitching yeast to incorporate air and stir it vigorously 2X's a day for the first couple of days. NOTE - Once you hit about 1/3 sugar break then due to the alcohol content your yeast go anaerobic and yes, air is not good.