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Big Mouth Bubbler vs FerMonster vs Wide Mouth Carboy

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Calder

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Big Mouth Bubbler - Northern Brewer
FerMonster - MoreBeer
Wide Mouth Carboy - RiteBrew

Anyone have any comparisons of these?

Anyone have any issues with any of these?

I'm looking for a couple of new fermenters. Thinking of getting the Wide Mouths from RiteBrew. They seem to be almost identical to the FerMonster, but cheaper. Also cheaper than the Big Mouth.

I have a BigMouth. I like it, but it has developed blisters in the plastic, and am not sure how long it will be viable to use. I'm hoping I don't get any more and it is stable from here on. The blisters are just bubbles under the surface; none have broken the surface.

My Big Mouth has the threaded lid. It looks like you cannot get that top anymore. I have heard people have had problems with the 'Universal' lid with keeping it in place. The old version, which I have, supposedly has sealing issues, but mine seems fine, and I have no issue with it. I don't know if the latest BMs even have threaded openings, and it seems you cannot buy the threaded tops anymore anyway.

Comments welcome/invited. Looking for input to help me decide what would be best for me. maybe it will help other's too. Whats good and whats bad with each, and comparative reviews.
 
Just kegged the first batch from my fermonster, I'm 100% sold. Also figured out how to replace the plastic valves with a ball lock QD.
 
That carboy from rite brew looks exactly like the fermonster, and made in Canada too! I'll be ordering one for a comparison, at any rate they both beat the pants off the BMB in terms of lid sealing.
 
I have four of the 7 gallon Fermonsters and am really happy. Easy to dry hop in a bag if you choose, easy to clean, can see what's going on if you'd like.

Some things to be aware of but not necessarily negatives: 1. Having a strap wrench comes in really handy to open the lid. Do not use the strap wrench to put the lid on. 2. If you cold crash in it, the walls can start to suck in. I combat this by building a stopper with a valve on it. I change to it when I start the cold crash, and put a little CO2 in just to get the shape of the fermenter back.

I have not used the other brands you mentioned, so I have can't compare them.
However, if I needed another fermenter tomorrow, I'd buy the same.
 
I just received my fermonster last week and it arrived with a big dent where the side of the box was kicked in by UPS. Foolishly I popped it out with my hand, now it has some scars where the creases were. I filled it to the top with hot tap water like i should have in the first place to smooth it out and the pressure popped out another small dent. I hope the slight crazing where it creased won't cause any problems, I mean, PET has a really high tensile strength so it should be fine, right?
 
I have five BmB's.

If I were starting over, probably would get the Fermonster. Cheaper. THe BmB's have had issues w/ the lid sealing. I think that's resolved, and one fix for those with the problem is to turn the silicone seal upside down. Seals very well then.

But they're more expensive. I'm locked in w/ the form factor, have lifting straps and such. They're great, they work well. The Fermonster mouth is a little smaller, the BmB mouth is very easy to get all the way inside.

And I have the ones w/ the spigot. Wouldn't go back to siphoning for....well, anything.
 
I'd like to see photos of ur setup, sounds like something I'd like to try.



I don't have a pic but it takes 4 parts...

A ball lock post.

One of these....

http://www.homebrewing.org/Plug-Adapter-14-MPT-x-1932_p_4640.html

One of these....

http://www.homebrewing.org/12-MPT-X-14-FPT-Hex-Reducing-Bushing-SS304_p_4185.html

And one of these.....

http://www.homebrewing.org/Stainless-Steel-Weldless-Bulkhead-12-NPT-_p_4642.html


Put one assembly in the spigot hole with a line going to the beer out post on your keg and if you want to one in a blank lid going to the gas in post on you keg for an O2 free transfer.

It'd be nice if it was one part instead of three but as of now it's not offered. If there's enough interest I could whip some up at work.
 
Thanks for the replies. Still looking for more comments from anyone who can provide real comparisons, or good/bad features with any of these.

I think the BMB is out of the running. Doesn't qualify for the 'Flat Rate' shipping, so is another $11 to ship to me ($17 for 2, and $23 for 3), making it even more expensive. Even with the current 20% off deal they have, it still doesn't make the cut in my book. When I got the one that I currently have, I'm pretty sure it was included in the flat rate shipping, and I got it with other supplies. Also the new ones don't have the threaded cover, which my current one has.

The Fermonster or Wide-Mouth? I plan to order from both RiteBrew and MoreBeer soon for other supplies. MoreBeer includes the Fermonster in their 'Free Shipping'. The Wide Mouth from RiteBrew if included with other supplies, would cost less than $1 for the shipping, making it the cheapest of all three.

Anyone know of any differences between the two?

That carboy from rite brew looks exactly like the fermonster, and made in Canada too! I'll be ordering one for a comparison, at any rate they both beat the pants off the BMB in terms of lid sealing.

They do look the same, and I'm pretty sure the lids are interchangeable (4 inch and requiring a #10 stopper). But, the quoted diameter and height are different at each site.

Some things to be aware of but not necessarily negatives: 1. Having a strap wrench comes in really handy to open the lid. Do not use the strap wrench to put the lid on.

My BMB has the same problem. I never thought of using a strap wrench. I just get my Daughter to hold the carboy and I turn the lid. I even have a strap wrench for my water filter less than 10 feet from where I ferment my beers.
 
That carboy from rite brew looks exactly like the fermonster, and made in Canada too! I'll be ordering one for a comparison, at any rate they both beat the pants off the BMB in terms of lid sealing.

Turn the gasket upside down, see how that works for you.

I don't have sealing issues w/ the BMB lids, but I'd read about that fix (invert the silicone seal), and it's solid.
 
Here's how to do an O2-free transfer using the plastic spigot. I have them on all my fermenters:

All you need is a little silicone tubing. I find 5/16" tubing works great.

I have the keg pressurized a bit before I open the spigot. I'll put the gas "IN" line on, flush it w/ the CO2 in the keg, then connect it on top. Then I'll connect the OUT line, blowing out the tubing and the little area inside the spigot spout. I have to connect/disconnect until pressure is just about gone, or use the PRV to clear the pressure.

I usually draw a bit of beer off into a hydrometer jar to clear the spigot of trub first.

closedloopco2.jpg
 
What's wrong with a plastic bucket fermenter? Can't see what the fermentation is doing? Lids don't seal?

If you want to see what a fermentation looks like put part of the wort into a glass jar and set it on the counter where you can watch it to your hearts content. Then dump the resulting beer because the light probably made it skunky. (note: it takes UV light to skunk beer)
Lid doesn't seal? Good, you need a way to vent the excess CO2. Can't see bubbles because it leaks around the lid? Go to the toy section of the big box store and get a bubble pipe and bottle of bubble solution and make all the bubbles you want.

A special container isn't what makes good beer and any excess money spent on one takes from the essential part of brewing, the ingredients.
 
What's wrong with a plastic bucket fermenter? Can't see what the fermentation is doing? Lids don't seal?

If you want to see what a fermentation looks like put part of the wort into a glass jar and set it on the counter where you can watch it to your hearts content. Then dump the resulting beer because the light probably made it skunky. (note: it takes UV light to skunk beer)
Lid doesn't seal? Good, you need a way to vent the excess CO2. Can't see bubbles because it leaks around the lid? Go to the toy section of the big box store and get a bubble pipe and bottle of bubble solution and make all the bubbles you want.

A special container isn't what makes good beer and any excess money spent on one takes from the essential part of brewing, the ingredients.

We're going to have to agree to disagree on this one. I wouldn't recommend a bucket under any circumstances I can imagine.

Perhaps the number one question of new brewers is "why isn't my airlock bubbling?" Of course, the cause is they're fermenting in a bucket, and the lid isn't sealing.

They are cheaper, yes. Aren't worth the lack of transparency IMO.

YMMV.
 
What's wrong with a plastic bucket fermenter?

Polyethylene buckets work fine, but they are easily scratched, and since they are opaque the scratches are hard to inspect. I know some people don't feel the need to watch their beer fermenting but to some of us it's the difference between watching a game on TV vs. listening to one on the radio. Also I would argue most PET fermenter users would otherwise be fermenting in glass, not buckets anyway, so a comparison to glass carboys would be more relevant. As for me? I chose my fermonster over a glass carboy because I live in a multi-story building and can't risk a spill from a shattered carboy, nor the potential for grievous bodily harm that broken glass presents. Buckets were never on my list, except for grain storage and cleaning tasks. :tank:
 
I just ordered the siphonless big mouth for secondary fermentation as they are easy to clean and won't need to siphon out. Plus lid issues should be eliminated since most of pressure will be gone


Got me thinking maybe I should use bottling buckets for primary for same reason, no siphoning.
 
I just ordered the siphonless big mouth for secondary fermentation as they are easy to clean and won't need to siphon out. Plus lid issues should be eliminated since most of pressure will be gone


Got me thinking maybe I should use bottling buckets for primary for same reason, no siphoning.

That's a great idea,,,,until you bump the spigot and it starts leaking or breaks off entirely. Siphons aren't that hard to work with.
 
Siphons aren't that hard to work with.

True, but a spigot is way easier.

Easier to start. Easier to stop. Easier to pull a gravity sample. Easier to prevent O2 contact. Easier to clean. You get the point.

I guess if you can't pay enough attention to not knock it off your fermenter then you should probably stick with a siphon.
 
I have two of the ported BMBs and I am eyeballing the fermonsters for future use. There is this awkward bubble pattern that is molded into the reinforcing ribs and it is a bitch to get the krausen material cleaned out of there.
 
I have two 7 gallon fermonsters, with spigots.

likes:
-wide mouth, cleaning is very easy
-super light
-spigot allows for very easy transfer to keg/secondary

dislikes:
-the top can be tough to get off post fermentation sometimes
-the small gasket, don't know a good way to dislodge it, to clean, without damaging
-Have trouble getting the stopper to stay in lid. Some mention drying the stopper first. I end up using wire to hold stopper down

IMG_2514.jpg
 
I have two of the ported BMBs and I am eyeballing the fermonsters for future use. There is this awkward bubble pattern that is molded into the reinforcing ribs and it is a bitch to get the krausen material cleaned out of there.

Wasn't expecting this. I don't have any trouble at all with it, but maybe it's what I'm doing.

When I drain that fermenter I'll take it to the sink dump the trub. Then, using the sprayer, I'll clear out what I can. Warm water works better than cold.

Then I'll put about a gallon of warm water in it and add a scoop of PBW. I mix it up, then lay the BMB on the counter. Using several sheets of paper towel (microfiber works well too), I'll swish around and because I've already dislodged virtually all the krausen from the inside, it comes off easily. I'll let it sit a few, then do it again. When that's done, I'll drain off a bowl's worth of PBW, take off the spigot and soak that in the PBW.

The I'll clean around the spigot hole inside the fermenter then dump the rest of the PBW into the sink. Using the sprayer I'll rinse, rinse, rinse.

Clean as a whistle! Takes maybe a total of 3 minutes.

The only way I can think of the Krausen being difficult to clean is if it's all dried on--and I'll clean the fermenter as quickly as I can after racking to the keg.
 
I use 15 gallon screw top fermentors. They have a silicone seal. I also have several 8.5 gallon buckets. I've used the same fermentors for 50+ batches in each. If I were doing it all over, I would have bought a few conicals. I'm moving to half barrel kegs for fermentors. I'm going to weld a 4" tri in the top.
The ones being mentioned, having never used any, I like the Fermonster. Lot of money for plastic, but holds pressure. To me that is the only drawback to a bucket. I want the option to spund. I vote Fermonster.
 
Here's how to do an O2-free transfer using the plastic spigot. I have them on all my fermenters:

All you need is a little silicone tubing. I find 5/16" tubing works great.

I have the keg pressurized a bit before I open the spigot. I'll put the gas "IN" line on, flush it w/ the CO2 in the keg, then connect it on top. Then I'll connect the OUT line, blowing out the tubing and the little area inside the spigot spout. I have to connect/disconnect until pressure is just about gone, or use the PRV to clear the pressure.

I usually draw a bit of beer off into a hydrometer jar to clear the spigot of trub first.

View attachment 414433

This is brilliant!
 
Here's how to do an O2-free transfer using the plastic spigot. I have them on all my fermenters:

All you need is a little silicone tubing. I find 5/16" tubing works great.

I have the keg pressurized a bit before I open the spigot. I'll put the gas "IN" line on, flush it w/ the CO2 in the keg, then connect it on top. Then I'll connect the OUT line, blowing out the tubing and the little area inside the spigot spout. I have to connect/disconnect until pressure is just about gone, or use the PRV to clear the pressure.

I usually draw a bit of beer off into a hydrometer jar to clear the spigot of trub first.

View attachment 414433

I've got six without spigots. I think I'd like to add them now. Any advice on that?
 
Big Mouth Bubbler - Northern Brewer
FerMonster - MoreBeer
Wide Mouth Carboy - RiteBrew

Anyone have any comparisons of these?

Anyone have any issues with any of these?

I'm looking for a couple of new fermenters. Thinking of getting the Wide Mouths from RiteBrew. They seem to be almost identical to the FerMonster, but cheaper. Also cheaper than the Big Mouth.

I have a BigMouth. I like it, but it has developed blisters in the plastic, and am not sure how long it will be viable to use. I'm hoping I don't get any more and it is stable from here on. The blisters are just bubbles under the surface; none have broken the surface.

My Big Mouth has the threaded lid. It looks like you cannot get that top anymore. I have heard people have had problems with the 'Universal' lid with keeping it in place. The old version, which I have, supposedly has sealing issues, but mine seems fine, and I have no issue with it. I don't know if the latest BMs even have threaded openings, and it seems you cannot buy the threaded tops anymore anyway.

Comments welcome/invited. Looking for input to help me decide what would be best for me. maybe it will help other's too. Whats good and whats bad with each, and comparative reviews.

Hey, if your BMB dies and you go with something different, I'd buy the threaded lid from you! I kind of have my eggs in the BMB basket and I prefer my older one with the threaded lid. I have a newer one with the universal lid an a two port universal lid that I use for CO2 pressure transfers. I have had some success with putting the gasket on upside down FWIW.
 
Hey, if your BMB dies and you go with something different, I'd buy the threaded lid from you! I kind of have my eggs in the BMB basket and I prefer my older one with the threaded lid. I have a newer one with the universal lid an a two port universal lid that I use for CO2 pressure transfers. I have had some success with putting the gasket on upside down FWIW.

I've got 6 of those lids I don't need. PM me an address and I'll send you one.
 
I've got six without spigots. I think I'd like to add them now. Any advice on that?

A little bit. If I get a chance tonite, I'll take a pic showing the location and measurement. You don't want it too low as you'll draw trub into the spigot, and too high you'll leave behind beer.

The other thing is that you need to be careful drilling in the sense that when the bit goes through the plastic, you don't want it rattling around inside creating scratches and such. With one of mine, I wasn't paying enough attention, but fortunately, the scratches and such were on the outside.

I used a spade bit to drill the holes. You want one that has the little pips at the edge of the bit so as to define the edges of the hole. And of course, when you get close to it popping through the side, be careful.

At the end, I cleaned up the hole with a utility or Exacto-knife. There will likely be some flash, just clean it off. The rubber gaskets will cover anything within 1/8" of the hole.
 
I've got 6 of those lids I don't need. PM me an address and I'll send you one.

I wish I could find a way to get those lids--not the threaded ring, but that plastic lid--to seal. I have tried to do CO2 capture and suckback during crashing, and there must be a very tiny leak somewhere that lets air in during crashing.

I have the lids, I have the rings--but as most everyone knows, they don't seal well. It's why NB went to the universal lid.
 
A little bit. If I get a chance tonite, I'll take a pic showing the location and measurement. You don't want it too low as you'll draw trub into the spigot, and too high you'll leave behind beer.

The other thing is that you need to be careful drilling in the sense that when the bit goes through the plastic, you don't want it rattling around inside creating scratches and such. With one of mine, I wasn't paying enough attention, but fortunately, the scratches and such were on the outside.

I used a spade bit to drill the holes. You want one that has the little pips at the edge of the bit so as to define the edges of the hole. And of course, when you get close to it popping through the side, be careful.

At the end, I cleaned up the hole with a utility or Exacto-knife. There will likely be some flash, just clean it off. The rubber gaskets will cover anything within 1/8" of the hole.

I'm going to drill with a step bit. Safest way I think. I'll clean the hole with a deburring tool. Works well on plastic (in fact, just used it about 20 minutes ago on some :).

I want a spigot that's got a racking arm on the inside, so that when I turn the outside the arm rotates and allows me to choose where I draw the beer from. That way, I can set it to just above the trub line.

Northern Brewer still sells the one for the better bottles. It's almost perfect (though six of them is going to be $$$). I might have one here already that I can experiment with.

https://www.northernbrewer.com/better-bottle-racking-adapter


upload_2018-2-21_12-38-18.png
 
I wish I could find a way to get those lids--not the threaded ring, but that plastic lid--to seal. I have tried to do CO2 capture and suckback during crashing, and there must be a very tiny leak somewhere that lets air in during crashing.

I have the lids, I have the rings--but as most everyone knows, they don't seal well. It's why NB went to the universal lid.

Just get a sheet of silicone (like the baking kind) and cut your own?
 

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