BIAB Plumbing Plan - Will this work?

[Mike123]

I'm moving to BIAB (basket) and this is my plumbing plan. If you have done this and see any problems with this setup, please advise. Thanks again everyone that replies for your comments and suggestions, I have learned a lot from this forum.

 

[RM-MN]

I'm in the KISS camp, keep it stupid simple. Do your first batch (or several) without all the complications. Just a bag (5 gallon paint strainer bags work well for a 5 gallon batch, you can upgrade later if you want) in the kettle. Find out what works for you that way. You can always make things complicated later. Then when things don't work as planned you will know that it is the complications and not the process.

 

[doug293cz]

I'd also start without the RIMS or recirculation. If you decide after experience that you want RIMS, you should really use an automatic controller for the RIMS. RIMS can overheat/scorch your wort faster than you can react when trying to manually adjust the temp.

Brew on

 

[Mike123]

OK thanks I'm a KISS camper too and will definitely start without the RIMS, now that you remind me I recall reading that for RIMS, automatic heat control is a must-do. I'll probably do recirculation (minus the RIMS plumbing) because I have a small basket relative to BK volume, and I'm concerned I won't get good efficiency if I don't. All I have to do is route around the Hop Rocket. I can add some heat with the propane burner to maintain mash temperature.

I still need to make an insulating jacket for the BK. Any suggestions on material to use for an insulator? I don't have an old sleeping bag, like many suggest. I'd like to make a form fitting jacket of something, but what?

 

[RM-MN]

I've used bath towels to insulate my BK...until I found out how quickly I had full conversion and that I didn't need any insulation. Fine crush gets you fast conversion and more complete conversion than coarse crush.

 

[Mike123]

Ok thank you RM-MN! My plan is to use iodine to determine when conversion is complete, is that how you do it? And regarding a "fine crush" can you quantify that somehow? Mill roller spacing? Multiple times through the mill? Or do you have a picture of your fine crushed grain? Is there any concern about tannins, etc...…….is there a downside I need to watch out for, or just stop when conversion is done to avoid that? I appreciate the benefit of your experience.

 

[doug293cz]

Ok thank you RM-MN! My plan is to use iodine to determine when conversion is complete, is that how you do it? And regarding a "fine crush" can you quantify that somehow? Mill roller spacing? Multiple times through the mill? Or do you have a picture of your fine crushed grain? Is there any concern about tannins, etc...…….is there a downside I need to watch out for, or just stop when conversion is done to avoid that? I appreciate the benefit of your experience.

With a really fine crush, the grits will look like corn meal. Note that you may still have pieces of husks that are much larger - you need to look at the kernel pieces (grits.)

A more reliable test (than iodine) is to measure the SG of the wort in the mash. With "normal" grain bills, your SG at conversion completion should be as in the table here. For grain bills with significantly lower extract potential than a "normal" bill, you can just measure the SG every 15 minutes, and stop the mash when the SG doesn't increase from one sample to the next. A refractometer is much better for this kind of sampling than a hydrometer.

Brew on

 

[Mike123]

OK got it, corn meal. I also bought a Brix Refractometer when I bought the iodine, so I'll do both. Gee Whiz I have to say, I'm loving this more and more now that I have retired and can focus on it. Making beer is a mix of physics, chemistry, and cooking. Three of my favorite things. I tried to explain my recirculation plumbing to my wife and about halfway through she said (smiling)...…"you are such a nerd". I took that as a compliment. BTW she loves my home brews, especially the Nut Brown Ale I have made just for her several times. Thanks again for the excellent information.

 

[wilserbrewer]

If it were me, I wouldn’t bother trying to recirculate...especially w/ a relative small mash volume resulting in a thicker mash.

And again trying to manually regulate a recirc system is tricky. Ymmv

Easiest yet also very effective to do full volume mash and insulate.
Jmo

 

[RM-MN]

Ok thank you RM-MN! My plan is to use iodine to determine when conversion is complete, is that how you do it? And regarding a "fine crush" can you quantify that somehow? Mill roller spacing? Multiple times through the mill? Or do you have a picture of your fine crushed grain? Is there any concern about tannins, etc...…….is there a downside I need to watch out for, or just stop when conversion is done to avoid that? I appreciate the benefit of your experience.

I scoop out a bit of the grains when I use the iodine test. The wort should not have starch in it, the grains will until conversion is complete. Using your refractometer is another method and doing both is a good plan but be sure to stir very well before taking the refractometer reading. I've noticed quite a difference in the reading taken at the top of the mash compared to 4" (the limit of the reach of the pipette) down until stirring mixes it up. Start taking your iodine sample at 1 minute and then take one every minute until the iodine stops changing. It will be an eye opener.