brewmaster48
Active Member
- Joined
- Dec 30, 2007
- Messages
- 31
- Reaction score
- 3
Getting ready to make cider commercially, have my choices of yeast. Wondering what everyone thinks is the best out there? Loking for semi-sweet.
Yes have temp. control and what I am looking for is some opinions on a yeast that has low attenuation as to leave a some residual sugar. Plan on kegging then cold crashing to stop fermentation. I have used mostly ale, wine, champagne yeasts. My three top choices after some research is the MO2, AS2, 71B. SAFCIDER. we are not back sweeting yet. Just want to get a high quiality base to start then move from there. Thanks.No such thing as a semisweet cider yeast.
Do you have temperature control?
Attenuation is meaningless with cider, mead and wine. Unlike beer, the sugars are simple and 100% fermentable. Some yeasts will ~typically~ leave a bit of sugar, but it's not guaranteed. For instance, S-04 at 60°F will usually stop at 1.002-1.004 but at 68° it'll go well below 1.000. The TF6 that Chalky mentioned finishing at 1.010 is very unusual. We did a group buy here a few years ago of a White Labs cider yeast that was advertised as 80% attenuation, and that was BS, mine finished at 0.996 like any other yeast would.Yes have temp. control and what I am looking for is some opinions on a yeast that has low attenuation as to leave a some residual sugar.
Thank you for the response. what if you cold crash at say 1.015? that would leave some sugars? Under pitch? Just spit ballingAttenuation is meaningless with cider, mead and wine. Unlike beer, the sugars are simple and 100% fermentable. Some yeasts will ~typically~ leave a bit of sugar, but it's not guaranteed. For instance, S-04 at 60°F will usually stop at 1.002-1.004 but at 68° it'll go well below 1.000. The TF6 that Chalky mentioned finishing at 1.010 is very unusual. We did a group buy here a few years ago of a White Labs cider yeast that was advertised as 80% attenuation, and that was BS, mine finished at 0.996 like any other yeast would.
What works on a homebrew scale is to ferment dry, stabilize with sulfite & sorbate, back sweeten and force carbonate. I don't know what they do on a commercial scale.
Sure that will work, but the yeast is very likely to start back up again in the bottles. If you do this, use plastic bottles because they can contain more pressure than glass and if they do explode they don't send broken glass everywhere.Thank you for the response. what if you cold crash at say 1.015? that would leave some sugars? Under pitch? Just spit balling
I've read that cold crashing and force filtering through a .5 micron absolute filter can remove yeast and leave residual sugar, but that's a bit outside the equipment of a home brewer so I've never tried it. Under pitching does nothing but slow down the ferment a bit.Thank you for the response. what if you cold crash at say 1.015? that would leave some sugars? Under pitch? Just spit balling
I've been making hard cider for almost 20 years and have tried all kinds of apple and yeast combinations. I've also become very picky about what cider I like and what I don't like. I'm in an apple growing area but most of the apples I can get make an inferior cider. Now and then I get some decent apples and/or juice.My three top choices after some research is the MO2, AS2, 71B. SAFCIDER. we are not back sweeting yet. Just want to get a high quiality base to start then move from there. Thanks.
Won’t work. It’ll slow fermentation a lot but won’t stop it. The key is to ferment to completion, stabilize with k-meta & k-sorbate, then back sweeten. It’s predictable, repeatable and, most importantly, safe.what if you cold crash at say 1.015? that would leave some sugars?