Belgian strong ale bottling question

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So I got a Belgian abbey ale kit from my local HB shop, I told the owner I wanted to go for a trippel. He sold me an additional 2lb of belgian candi sugar (dark), which was added last 10min of boil.
I bought some crappy red stripe 12pks ( because they were like10.99) and the little grenade bottles I thought might be good for belgian strong, and the piraat or duvel are close to 18.99 a 4 pk.
Are the Red Stripe bottles ok? Or should I be concerned with bottle burst?
I'm also thinking about pitching some more yeast to get authentic belgian style.
I used the white labs wlp575 Trappist/belgian yeast in primary fermentation but may go to a higher alcohol tolerance yeast before bottle conditioning, or just go wlp575 again.
Should I just fill less in bottles? Or get different?


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Regular bottles are fine. As long as fermentation is done carbonation will be a function of the amount of bottling sugar you use and the temperature it reached during fermentation. Are you planning on carbing them to an extreme level?
 
Im confused as to why you'd add a different yeast strain after fermentation? Ive never heard of this before but im fairly new to brewing as well. I wouldnt think a different strain after fermentation would cause that much of a flavor change but i could be wrong. I thought duvel for example was fermented with two different yeast strains in separate fermenters, then mixed into one before bottling? Anyway if your worried about having to add more yeast at bottling just to carbonate, I wouldnt unless its been aging in the carboy for over 4 or 5 months. I let mine sit for almost 5 weeks, cold crashed and bottled. After a week I already have some carbonation in the beer.
 
I was just keeping in mind the alcohol tolerance of the yeast . On the wlp575 it has medium-high , I I was considering a yeast strain that has high tolerance, and possibly for flavor purposes too. For instance gulden drakk uses a super yeast (wlp090 or similar )although I doubt my brew will be that high ( I broke hydrometer before taking o.g ).
Yes I'm thinking around 3-4months before bottling. Also I guess the re pitching of yeast helps with carbonation and develops the brew,
Ommegang and Unibroue uses these techniques.
But really, will the little RedStripe bottles be ok?


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Red strip bottles are fine as long as they're pry off. I believe a wing capper may have issue capping those. I did with a similar shaped bottle. I ended up getting a bench capper. Not sure about the yeast situation but if you say it's a technique used by commercial brewers then go for it.
 
There is no need to add more yeast at bottling. I brew a lot of Belgians and do not have an issue with the brews carbing up. I f you really feel like you do need to add some yeast use the same strain. If you use a second strain that has a higher attenuation you may risk bottles being overcarbed or even bottle bombs. For example.. Yeast #1 finishes up at 75% attenuatin. You then add yeast#2 which has a higher attenuation rate and it eats more sugars...possible problem.
 
There is no need to add more yeast at bottling. I brew a lot of Belgians and do not have an issue with the brews carbing up. I f you really feel like you do need to add some yeast use the same strain. If you use a second strain that has a higher attenuation you may risk bottles being overcarbed or even bottle bombs. For example.. Yeast #1 finishes up at 75% attenuatin. You then add yeast#2 which has a higher attenuation rate and it eats more sugars...possible problem.

never crossed my mind the potential danger of doing that, great point.
 
Seriously though. If you aren't carbing to some crazy level above style, and there isn't any Brett or other wild things to drive further carbonation, any beer bottle you can cap is fine.
 
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