Beersmith - remove hops from vort?

[ninj4]

Hi everyone, my first post, so bare with me

Normally i don't use hop-bags. I just filter the hops away when poring the wort into the fermenter. I'm planning on steeping for the first time, but I'm worried about the IBU-calculation:

When adding hops with the steep/whirlpool-option in Beersmith 2, there is no increase in IBU. Makes sense, I guess. But what about the later hop additions? Does beersmith take into consideration, say, the 15 min addition? Surely these hops will add more bitterness if they boil for 15 min AND steep for 20 min after flameout, compared to just the 15 min and then going straight to cooling?

Phrasing it more concise: should I remove hops from the wort before adding steeping hops?

 

[Yooper]

Hi everyone, my first post, so bare with me

Normally i don't use hop-bags. I just filter the hops away when poring the wort into the fermenter. I'm planning on steeping for the first time, but I'm worried about the IBU-calculation:

When adding hops with the steep/whirlpool-option in Beersmith 2, there is no increase in IBU. Makes sense, I guess. But what about the later hop additions? Does beersmith take into consideration, say, the 15 min addition? Surely these hops will add more bitterness if they boil for 15 min AND steep for 20 min after flameout, compared to just the 15 min and then going straight to cooling?

Phrasing it more concise: should I remove hops from the wort before adding steeping hops?

No, the hops stay in. The IBUs are still pretty close, and I've been doing it that way for many years.

 

[Oginme]

The IBU calculations in brewing software, such as BeerSmith, are just an estimate based upon models which have been developed. Unless you actually test for IBU, you really don't know how good is your process at utilization of the hop oils. So my first advice is to take the numbers with a big grain of salt.

Additionally, we assume that the AA% marked on the hops we buy is correct. With age, handling, and exposure to air, this number is a best estimate of the actual content.

That said, I leave my hops in and go by the ending taste of the finished beer to determine how I will apply hops to future brews. If you find that the bitterness is a little higher than you expected (by taste), then you can make the adjustment hop quantities to compensate and target a lower IBU to get what you think the appropriate bitterness should be.

Bottom line: Do what works for you, adjust your target numbers to match your tastes, be consistent in your process, and RDWHAHB!

 

[Calichusetts]

I agree with what has been said already. Just choose an IBU calculation on BS and stick with it. Pay attention to your IBUs from the beginning and middle in terms of bitterness. Then just pay attention to the results. Mine make no sense in commercial understanding of IBUs. They are way off but the bitterness itself is perfect for the styles I produce.

 

[iBrewR]

Matt Brynildson of Firestone Walker Brewing Company says:

The fact that there is some isomerization (about 15% in whirlpool versus 35% in the kettle) of alpha acid means that not only hop aroma and hop flavor can be achieved, but also some bittering.