Beers that age well?

[knotquiteawake]

Towards the end of this year we are spawning a new member of the household and my brewing time will be severely impacted for several months after that.

I would like to start to "Stockpile" between now and then.

I've got a 3 keg system (2 on tap and one spare keg). Which is great but I export quite a bit into growlers for parties and shindigs. So I was thinking to start putting some beers into bottles both so I've got some reserve and so I've got more variety available. The primary plan would be to make sure all 3 kegs are near full before the spawning event occurs. If thats not possible I need a backup plan.

What lighter easy drinking styles age well? I've read English Milds don't age well (Orfy's Mild Mannered Ale people mentioned is best 2-4 weeks in age and goes downhill after then) and also Dry Hopped IPAs (Like many session IPAs, the aroma dies down quickly and flavor isn't as good after a short while).

I know a lot of the heavy stuff ages well (strong Ale, Belgians, Barley Wines, etc) but I was wondering what might do well with 3-4 months in the bottle before consumption?

 

[Kent88]

Bock.

Not exactly light, depending on your definition, but a lager like that should age pretty well. You can make it on the lighter end of the spectrum, or even make it just a little too light for style.

Moderate gravity stouts should age well, too. I've aged some moderate strength sweet stouts that were good after more than a year.

I made a kettle soured berliner weisse that took about four months to get good, and by good I mean "why haven't I been brewing this constantly ever since". I haven't even brewed it once since then, what the heck is up with me? But anyways, that is a light style.

If you want to wait a while before you even package something, a proper sour might be a good investment.

And yeah, Barleywine, Belgian Strong Ales, Doppelbocks, Russian Imperial Stout, they're what I would be recommending to you if you hadn't said you wanted something on the lighter side.

 

[knotquiteawake]

Bock.

And yeah, Barleywine, Belgian Strong Ales, Doppelbocks, Russian Imperial Stout, they're what I would be recommending to you if you hadn't said you wanted something on the lighter side.

The only problem i had with those styles was as a nightly drink those don't work in 22oz bombers on a weeknight. Maybe if I can find some more 12oz bottles I'll do one batch.

I have a mini-fridge fermentation chamber which, in the winter, might be able to maintain a 40-ish degree temp. So I hadn't thought about a lager. I can brew it and then let it lager for a month or two before kegging it (or just keg it once the next keg becomes available).

 

[Home_alone1]

Saison fermented with or bottled with brett.

 

[aprichman]

Just a thought but brewing with LME/DME doesn't take very much time. I could probably knock a batch out in about 2.5 hours.

 

[Kent88]

The only problem i had with those styles was as a nightly drink those don't work in 22oz bombers on a weeknight. Maybe if I can find some more 12oz bottles I'll do one batch.

I have a mini-fridge fermentation chamber which, in the winter, might be able to maintain a 40-ish degree temp. So I hadn't thought about a lager. I can brew it and then let it lager for a month or two before kegging it (or just keg it once the next keg becomes available).

I suggested lightening it up, and I didn't realize you were committed to 22oz-ers.

There is a thread on here for warm fermented lagers, might be worth looking into if you don't want to deal with keeping things cold the whole time.

 

[bleme]

I'll second the Saison (with or without Brett)
I did a Caribou Slobber kit that took 3 months to peak.
Do low ABV Porters/Stouts count as light?

I did an extract black IPA a couple months ago - no boil, just a 180F whirlpool - that was done in an hour. That method uses a lot of hops but I had too many hops in my freezer anyway.

 

[jcav]

Stout, Milk Stout, especially Coffee Stouts or Chocolate Milk Stouts age very well and don't go down hill for at least four months. These can be very drinkable beers and not heavy at all. You can also make them heavy as well if you want.

John

 

[AzOr]

If you don’t mind lagering, I think pilsners age well for at least 6-7 months.
The flavor profile does start to change after 4 or 5 months but not in a bad way. My batches are usually 5-6%.
I don’t know about the warm fermentation method, as I usually lager the traditional method.

 

[GPP33]

I’ve read Wits age well. Really a few months isn’t that long if you have good oxygen protection measures. If you want to do a hoppy one just go over the top with hops or plan on an additional keg hop after a couple months. It probably won’t be the best hoppy beer ever but it’ll be enjoyable. I’d probably do a pale ale, Saison and wit.

 

[Boomer]

Man, rather than dumping the time and money into new bottles, tons of ingredients and time over the next several months, I’d look really hard at like a grainfather or Robobrew or something like that.

I just bought a Robobrew about 2 months ago and I can almost guarantee you I’d have time to brew a day or two after bringing a new baby home. They’re so simple and reliable that you end up with a ton of time on brew day.

For example - a few weeks ago, I brewed a batch of beer, smoked two pork shoulders, built a chicken coop, and got the garden beds ready on the same afternoon. As long as you’re capable of pushing a few buttons every hour, you’re golden.

Just seems like a viable alternative to keep brewing what you like during that time.

 

[aprichman]

Man, rather than dumping the time and money into new bottles, tons of ingredients and time over the next several months, I’d look really hard at like a grainfather or Robobrew or something like that.

I just bought a Robobrew about 2 months ago and I can almost guarantee you I’d have time to brew a day or two after bringing a new baby home. They’re so simple and reliable that you end up with a ton of time on brew day.

For example - a few weeks ago, I brewed a batch of beer, smoked two pork shoulders, built a chicken coop, and got the garden beds ready on the same afternoon. As long as you’re capable of pushing a few buttons every hour, you’re golden.

Just seems like a viable alternative to keep brewing what you like during that time.

Wouldn't any BIAB setup be just as fast or faster than one of these?

 

[z-bob]

American Porter ages pretty well, in my experience. I did one in January that was 90% 2-row, 6% Black Patent, and 4% crystal 20 that turned out really nice. (I was kinda pushing the limits on black malt to see what happens)

 

[Boomer]

Wouldn't any BIAB setup be just as fast or faster than one of these?

I don’t think so. Not 100% sure, however. I know with my Robobrew I just set a temp and walk away. I don’t have to stand there making sure it doesn’t get too hot or too cold, I don’t have to watch for boilovers, etc.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Since the high-ABV route is not an option, then in general malt-led beers will last longer than copper-hopped beers which last longer than dry-hopped beers.

Aside from what's been mentioned - you need to drink British. Most British homebrewers would say that their bitters/bests peak at around 3-6 months, and commercial bottles are certainly good for a year.As with mild, you do need a bit of alcohol to support it, but that classic 4-4.5% best strength will last well and yet still feel light by US standards. Ditto with weaker stouts, strong milds etc.

Lambics and krieks etc can take months if not years to make...

And then of course going the other way, there's the British tradition of a Majority Ale, brewed for when the baby turned 21.

As for speeding up brewdays - these can all help:
Mash overnight - or just use extract
Bitter with alpha extract and not hops, gets the boil down to 20-30 minutes for DMS reduction for pale malt
No-chill

 

[Northern_Brewer]

I don’t think so. Not 100% sure, however. I know with my Robobrew I just set a temp and walk away. I don’t have to stand there making sure it doesn’t get too hot or too cold, I don’t have to watch for boilovers, etc.

The answer to boilovers is simet(h)icone - I use a piece of wind-relief tablet. Boilovers are no longer an issue.

You don't have to watch over any eBIAB setup for hot and cold - set the thermostat and away you go. Can be as simple as a bucket with a kettle element, thermowell and Inkbird. Obviously it's "nicer" with fancy kit, but $100's in your pocket are also nice.

So I don't completely abandon my eBIAB whilst it's boiling, but there's usually enough to do in the room next door that I can keep half an eye on it whilst getting on with other stuff. And with a baby there will always be other stuff to do in and around the kitchen... Stuff like overnight mashing, alpha extract and no-chill make a big difference though.

 

[Boomer]

You don't have to watch over any eBIAB setup for hot and cold - set the thermostat and away you go.

Correct. Kinda why I made the suggestion. @aprichman asked about BIAB, however.

 

[aprichman]

I BIAB with a 10 gallon vessel and a propane burner. I get the strike water up to temp and mash in, stirring once at 30 minutes. After the mash all that's left is pulling the bag and adding hops. I don't ever have problems with boiling over.

 

[Boomer]

I BIAB with a 10 gallon vessel and a propane burner. I get the strike water up to temp and mash in, stirring once at 30 minutes. After the mash all that's left is pulling the bag and adding hops. I don't ever have problems with boiling over.

Cool.

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Correct. Kinda why I made the suggestion. @aprichman asked about BIAB, however.

There's nothing about the phrase "BIAB" that implies a heat source though. In countries where people are trusted with 230V, BIAB tends to mean electric more than propane. But my impression is that many people with propane do the same as aprichman and get to mash temperature and rely on insulation to hold it. With modern malts and good insulation it's "good enough", particularly when it's a question of brewing that way or not at all.

 

[Boomer]

There's nothing about the phrase "BIAB" that implies a heat source though. In countries where people are trusted with 230V, BIAB tends to mean electric more than propane. But my impression is that many people with propane do the same as aprichman and get to mash temperature and rely on insulation to hold it. With modern malts and good insulation it's "good enough", particularly when it's a question of brewing that way or not at all.

You’ll be hard-pressed to convince me that traditional BIAB rigs are easier than fully-automated ones.

You guys feel free to continue derailing his thread, however. I was just proposing an alternate solution, not trying to start an argument about BIAB.

 

[knotquiteawake]

Since the high-ABV route is not an option, then in general malt-led beers will last longer than copper-hopped beers which last longer than dry-hopped beers.

Aside from what's been mentioned - you need to drink British. Most British homebrewers would say that their bitters/bests peak at around 3-6 months, and commercial bottles are certainly good for a year.As with mild, you do need a bit of alcohol to support it, but that classic 4-4.5% best strength will last well and yet still feel light by US standards. Ditto with weaker stouts, strong milds etc.

British Styles have been next on my list. I was thinking of brewing one next to experiment with.
I just finished kegging an American Wheat to start off the warm weather with. Are British Bitters refreshing like American Ales? Or are they more malty and toasty like browns?

Any good basic Best Bitter recipes?

 

[knotquiteawake]

Just a thought but brewing with LME/DME doesn't take very much time. I could probably knock a batch out in about 2.5 hours.

You are right. I hadn't really thought about it but a lot of tasty beers are made using extract. My first dozen beers were good.
And with a turkey fryer burner and full boil I'll be producing a better quality extract beer in less time than it first took me with a 3 gallon pot and underpowered stove.

M

 

[knotquiteawake]

If you don’t mind lagering, I think pilsners age well for at least 6-7 months.
The flavor profile does start to change after 4 or 5 months but not in a bad way. My batches are usually 5-6%.
I don’t know about the warm fermentation method, as I usually lager the traditional method.

I have a fermentation chamber i just built out. I think in the winter it might be able to maintain 45-ish degrees without too much issue.
If i can brew a lager shortly before the spawnling comes then leave it in the fermentation chamber for a couple months while i work through the other stock that might be a good option.

 

[ismellweird]

Controversial but I have an IPA technique that I've been experimenting with, where I let is sit for quite a while before letting anyone drink it. Mellows the bitterness/harshness from the hops and eventually reaches a point where even my friends who hate IPAs will drink it. My one buddy who drinks only pale ales he loves it. Can't believe he hears himself say "I like IPAs".

edit: forgot to finish

 

[EDF713]

Another option would be hard cider, if you like it. It doesn't take long to make them, since you are using apple juice rather than mashing and boiling, there is no kettle to clean up, typical juices will result in about 5% abv, and they are better after aging. Even better, if you keg you can make a sweet sparking cider by sweetening with suger, honey, or fruit juice without fear of bottle bombs. If you do bottle sweetened cider from the keg, make sure you stabilized the cider with campden and sorbate before kegging.

 

[knotquiteawake]

Another option would be hard cider, if you like it. It doesn't take long to make them, since you are using apple juice rather than mashing and boiling, there is no kettle to clean up, typical juices will result in about 5% abv, and they are better after aging. Even better, if you keg you can make a sweet sparking cider by sweetening with suger, honey, or fruit juice without fear of bottle bombs. If you do bottle sweetened cider from the keg, make sure you stabilized the cider with campden and sorbate before kegging.

Just bottled a batch of Graff cider. This one accidentally started at 1.062 and finished at 1.011... Its still sweet tasting and rocket fuel strong.

 

[cegan09]

I'd second the recommendation to look at ways to shorten brew day. Good friend of mine has a 2 year old, and that didn't dissuade him from brewing. Extract beers and he makes batches on a schedule to keep one in the keg at all times. His brew days are short and relaxing. I'm kinda jealous at times when my brew days stretch on for 5-6 hours (setup to fermenter full and all cleanup done)

 

[Northern_Brewer]

Are British Bitters refreshing like American Ales? Or are they more malty and toasty like browns?

Any good basic Best Bitter recipes?

A good British bitter has that perfect balance between bitterness, maltiness and yeast - and at ~4% are certainly sessionable.

There's plenty around but to be honest if you want to start somewhere, then I would be in the ballpark of :

90% pale malt (ideally Maris Otter or Golden Promise, but ordinary 2-row will do)
5% crystal (50-80L or thereabouts)
5% torrified wheat (optional, for head retention; flaked wheat will do)

Tweak the OG to get 4.2% ABV, depending on expected attenuation of your yeast

For a southern bitter you'd go for 0.7 BU:GU and maybe tweak the crystal up to 7-8%
For a northern bitter you want 0.8-0.9 BU:GU and optionally replace some of the malt with 5% invert sugar or Lyle's golden syrup.
As a northerner, I prefer them a bit more bitter and with a touch less crystal.
Ideally, bitter with a British hop - Admiral is our current high-alpha standard, stuff like Challenger or Northdown are more traditional, you can always use lower-alpha landraces like Goldings but only if you're using them up. Don't sweat it too much at this stage though, there's no point getting lots of specialist kinds of hops only to find that you don't like the beer, so Magnum or Nugget etc would be fine.

I'm not the biggest fan of Fuggle, but I love Goldings as kettle and dry hops. Goldings with 30-50% Bramling Cross is something like my idea of perfect though. But again, I guess it depends a bit on what you can get hold of, Goldings with some Fuggle, Styrians, Saaz or Willamette would all work, a bit of Cascade is quite common in modern interpretations, of the modern Goldings replacements 100% First Gold is probably your best bet.

Yeast - Nottingham is where most British homebrewers tend to start as it's widely available and very forgiving, but arguably is a bit too clean for a traditional beer. WLP028/1728 is a pretty safe place to start on the liquid front, but can't argue with WLP002/1968 either.

Carbonate to ~1.5vol keg or 2.0 vol bottle. Natural carbonation is preferable to force carbonation, compare champagne with Coke, but don't sweat it too much.

I've tried to give you lots of flexibility so far but serving temperature is critical - the typical pub cellar is 53-57F, I might let you go down to 48F if you're serving full pints in a warm room, but typical keg temperatures just kill the flavour.

 

[knotquiteawake]

Great info. Thanks.

A good British bitter has that perfect balance between bitterness, maltiness and yeast - and at ~4% are certainly sessionable.

There's plenty around but to be honest if you want to start somewhere, then I would be in the ballpark of :

90% pale malt (ideally Maris Otter or Golden Promise, but ordinary 2-row will do)
5% crystal (50-80L or thereabouts)
5% torrified wheat (optional, for head retention; flaked wheat will do)

Tweak the OG to get 4.2% ABV, depending on expected attenuation of your yeast

For a southern bitter you'd go for 0.7 BU:GU and maybe tweak the crystal up to 7-8%
For a northern bitter you want 0.8-0.9 BU:GU and optionally replace some of the malt with 5% invert sugar or Lyle's golden syrup.
As a northerner, I prefer them a bit more bitter and with a touch less crystal.
Ideally, bitter with a British hop - Admiral is our current high-alpha standard, stuff like Challenger or Northdown are more traditional, you can always use lower-alpha landraces like Goldings but only if you're using them up. Don't sweat it too much at this stage though, there's no point getting lots of specialist kinds of hops only to find that you don't like the beer, so Magnum or Nugget etc would be fine.

I'm not the biggest fan of Fuggle, but I love Goldings as kettle and dry hops. Goldings with 30-50% Bramling Cross is something like my idea of perfect though. But again, I guess it depends a bit on what you can get hold of, Goldings with some Fuggle, Styrians, Saaz or Willamette would all work, a bit of Cascade is quite common in modern interpretations, of the modern Goldings replacements 100% First Gold is probably your best bet.

Yeast - Nottingham is where most British homebrewers tend to start as it's widely available and very forgiving, but arguably is a bit too clean for a traditional beer. WLP028/1728 is a pretty safe place to start on the liquid front, but can't argue with WLP002/1968 either.

Carbonate to ~1.5vol keg or 2.0 vol bottle. Natural carbonation is preferable to force carbonation, compare champagne with Coke, but don't sweat it too much.

I've tried to give you lots of flexibility so far but serving temperature is critical - the typical pub cellar is 53-57F, I might let you go down to 48F if you're serving full pints in a warm room, but typical keg temperatures just kill the flavour.

 

[AzOr]

I hope this isn’t too off topic. The OP was asking for beers that age well, not techniques that shorten brew day.

However, I do have two small humans in my house, so I can speak with some experience.

What I have been doing is mashing one night, then doing my boil the nex night(or next couple of nights).
Mashing is the passive part of brewing. Just before dinner I heat water, after dinner I mash in. I do collect the wort as opposed to leaving water and grains in my cooler.

It kinda depends on climate, but I leave my unboiled wort out on my patio (covered) overnight on my burner. If it’s too hot outside, then I’ll put wort in my keezer. The next night while eating dinner I’ll turn on burner. By the time kiddos are asleep, it’s usuall near boiling. The only thing you can’t do with this method is fwh.

I’ve done this with my last dozen or so batches and nothin* weird has happened. Kinda like the Aussie style, but lazier.

 

[AzOr]

I forgot to mention that if you have a keezer or similar, you can store your unboiled wort in there for quite awhile.