American Pale Ale Bee Cave Brewery Haus Pale Ale

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Just wondering anybody's thoughts here, thinking of substituting 6row brewers malt and Hi-dri. I have a lot on hand to use up!
 
Alright, I'm planning on making this tonight, but I'm wondering if anyone has done exactly what Ed says to do here.

I typically follow my own calculations, but this just sounds too easy. If it works, I'd like to usei it. Has anyone used it with success?

Mash
Dough-in with 3.5 gallons of water. After 60 minutes, add 5 quarts of 175 degree water and begin vorlauf. My system only takes about 2 quarts before it clears up, then it's wide open to drain in the kettle. Have another 3.25 gallons of 175 degree water ready for the next batch sparge. You should then get 6.5 gallons to your kettle for the boil.
 
Alright, I'm planning on making this tonight, but I'm wondering if anyone has done exactly what Ed says to do here.

I typically follow my own calculations, but this just sounds too easy. If it works, I'd like to usei it. Has anyone used it with success?

I haven't done "exactly" like this, but there must be a hundred paths to mashing/sparging. This is one.

Typically, adding some water before the first drain lets one reduce the amount of sparge water needed when doing a single batch sparge. Depending upon your system capacity, you may need to do this to have enough room in the mash tun to do a single sparge. Some software lets you play around with different sparging volumes, stages, and mash tun sizes to see what works. People also use totally different grain to mash water ratios in batch sparging and get good results.

IMHO, use what you are familiar with and works for your system and gets you a known efficiency. Then you can adjust the grain bill to hit the target S.G.
:fro:

rich
 
Thanks. I think I'm going to stay with my single mash in/ batch sparege technique. I typically get good efficiency that way. Thanks a lot man.
 
What do you guys think about adding Northern Brewer as a dry hop addition to the keg. If it's good, how much would you add.
 
Well I just started the boil. I'm going to boil for 90 minutes because I used a bit too much sparge water. My gravity before boil was 1.035. eh. It's hard to have a perfect brew day.
 
Done. I'd say everything came out good, but I didn't hit my numbers. I sparged with way too much and therefore had a diluted wort. My OG is 1.044. Not the end of the world. I'll let you guys know how it turns out.
 
After a few extra weeks, this beer is tasting fantastic! I dry hopped with summit hop tea and cascade. Unfortunately the keg is more than half empty....
gratuitous pic:
web.jpg
 
Ease & cost efficiency of dry yeast. I'm beginning to prefer a dry yeast as of lately..

+1

Ed is the reason I almost exclusively use dry yeast now. I have found with "most" styles a clean fermenting yeast such as nottingham or s-05 is just perfect. All of the fancy yeasts are really necessary. I've even done 10 gallon batches where I'll use a dry in one fermenter and the liquid suggested for that style and I'm preferring the dry.

I typically don't even rehydrate just pour it straight in.
 
HalfPint:
1.013 fg and 1.060 og 6.2%
I used Us-05 and used the trub from this to ferment 2 consecutive IIPA's.

Man, that's good compared to me.

I just ran my numbers way wrong! I over sparged by about 2 gallons. My og was 1.045 after a 100 minute boil! I hope it will still taste good. I've never had a batch come out this poorly. I think it will still be fine. If anything, it will be an easy drinking beer that you can have a few of.
 
Hey all,

I was going to do this beer as a PM to show some friends how to brew. Unfortunately I just moved across country and I don't have a large enough kettle to do a full boil (have access to a 6 gallon kettle). Would you suggest scaling down or just adding water at the end?
 
Yes, add water at the end. Your hops utilization would be lower without the full boil, so you may need to up your hops bill by maybe 10% (I don't know the formula) or just boil them a bit longer.
 
I will do that thanks.

I was actually thinking about possibly lowering the hops a little bit. I have not tasted this beer but some of the feedback makes me think its a little on the hoppy side. Don't be me wrong, I love IPA and hoppy beers, but I am actually gonna be showing a few people how to brew beer, giving them some and the guys letting me use his turkey fryer is a BMC guy.
 
Brewed an extract version of this 2 weeks ago with the following hop schedule, turned out fantastic, my best beer to date.

I used

1 oz 11.4% Chinook at 60
1 oz 5.4% Cascade at 15
1 oz 5.4% Cascade at flameout

used S-05
 
FWIW....

I brewed 5 gallons on Halloween. Bottled on the seventh. Drank two last night (day 10). Fully carbed. Excellent head. With retention. Nice lacing on the glass. Clear enough to read newsprint through. Carb was in solution....remained in solution to the bottom of the glass. Very tasty. Didn't taste "green" at all. Tasted like a finished product. The only thing was my LHBS on had hops with a stronger alpha acid rating than Ed's recipe, so it was a tad more bitter than usual.

Everytime I brew this. I experiment to see how fast it takes from grain to glass. I've done the 3 weeks primary/3 weeks bottle condition. Then two weeks primary 1 week bottle. 1 week primary, 1 week bottle. Now 1 week primary 72 hours bottle condition. Still tastes as good, if not better than the others.

I left one bottle out on the counter to use a clearing gauge. It was probably "drinkable" at the 48 hour mark, but it appeared to be fairly clear. Last night was the 72 hour mark, and it appeared clear when I got home from work. So I randomly selected one from the case, and poured it warm. Very tasty indeed. I selected another, put it in the fridge in a special "beverage chilling" compartment. A few hours later I popped it open, and was met with the same results. If not better because of it being chilled.

Bottling procedures:

3/4 cup dextrose boiled in 2 cups water.
Ambient temp 77 degrees.
 
Heres an update on mine. It's been in the primary for 7 days now and is down to 1.011. The taste is great, but is still a little green since I added some additional EK Goldings at flame out. I'm really liking this beer and it should be a crowd pleaser on thanksgiving.

I'm planning on leaving it in the primary for 1 more week then kegging. I'll post some pics in a couple of weeks.

Thanks for the great recipe,
J
 
EdWort,

This is my first AG batch, second batch ever. I think I am on the money as far as recipe performance is concerned. My OG was 1.051 at pitch (Safale -05) and at day 4 I am at 1.011. I was a bit concerned that nothing was happening since for some reason I never saw any air lock activity. So I cracked the lid and took a reading dip with a well sanitized turkey baster to see what was going on.

Measurement shows that the yeasties have done/are doing their work. As this is my second batch, the rip cord on my bucket fermenter lid has been removed. The bucket seems firmly sealed nonetheless. Do you think that I missed the airlock show (bubbles) because the yeast is that fast, or because the CO2 is simply passed the seal of the lid. By "rip cord", I mean the peel strip on the edge of the bucket lid. Should I have not removed that?

All seems to be on schedule though for a great ale. Thanks for posting such a simple recipe. BTW, I am looking for a creamy stout recipe with a grain bill that will work in my cylindrical 5 Gal mash tun.

Any ideas either are welcome!
 
I will do that thanks.

I was actually thinking about possibly lowering the hops a little bit. I have not tasted this beer but some of the feedback makes me think its a little on the hoppy side. Don't be me wrong, I love IPA and hoppy beers, but I am actually gonna be showing a few people how to brew beer, giving them some and the guys letting me use his turkey fryer is a BMC guy.


Its not hoppy, and if your friend is a BMC guy then this is a great opportunity to show him what he is missing...
 
EdWort,

This is my first AG batch, second batch ever. I think I am on the money as far as recipe performance is concerned. My OG was 1.051 at pitch (Safale -05) and at day 4 I am at 1.011. I was a bit concerned that nothing was happening since for some reason I never saw any air lock activity. So I cracked the lid and took a reading dip with a well sanitized turkey baster to see what was going on.

Measurement shows that the yeasties have done/are doing their work. As this is my second batch, the rip cord on my bucket fermenter lid has been removed. The bucket seems firmly sealed nonetheless. Do you think that I missed the airlock show (bubbles) because the yeast is that fast, or because the CO2 is simply passed the seal of the lid. By "rip cord", I mean the peel strip on the edge of the bucket lid. Should I have not removed that?

All seems to be on schedule though for a great ale. Thanks for posting such a simple recipe. BTW, I am looking for a creamy stout recipe with a grain bill that will work in my cylindrical 5 Gal mash tun.

Any ideas either are welcome!

Ed's got a great porter recipe that I've made a few times. I actually have a batch of it kegged right now and another five gallons I'm giving away for Christmas presents. It's really kinda a mix between a stout and a porter in my opinion. Worth a brew nonetheless.

Hey, I've brewed bunches of AG's and I didn't even hit my numbers on my last brew.

Good job,
J
 
I will do that thanks.

I was actually thinking about possibly lowering the hops a little bit. I have not tasted this beer but some of the feedback makes me think its a little on the hoppy side. Don't be me wrong, I love IPA and hoppy beers, but I am actually gonna be showing a few people how to brew beer, giving them some and the guys letting me use his turkey fryer is a BMC guy.

If you look a lot of guys are brewing a slightly (or sometimes heavily) modified version of the original recipe. The one I brewed was almost exactly BM's original recipe. I had a slightly different AA level in my hops and adjusted accordingly to get the same IBUs and as close to the same flavor/aroma levels as I could.

I served the beer along side a slightly hoppier APA and everyone who liked craft beer preferred the hoppier beer and all the BMC drinkers really liked this one much more. One of the craft guys asked if this was an american lager style beer.

I would also recommend brewing with the Danstar nottingham yeast and keep it low and slow to minimize ester production, you'll end up with a very neutral ale that no one will dislike.
 
Ed's got a great porter recipe that I've made a few times. I actually have a batch of it kegged right now and another five gallons I'm giving away for Christmas presents. It's really kinda a mix between a stout and a porter in my opinion. Worth a brew nonetheless.

Hey, I've brewed bunches of AG's and I didn't even hit my numbers on my last brew.

Good job,
J

Hey half pint, can you post a link to Ed's Porter/Stout? I could not find it.
Thanks!
 
Yeah, I ferment in the 60's with most of my ales. I usually try to stay at the low end.

I kegged mine tonight after 10 days in the primary. I didn't crash cool, but this stuff was clear enough to read through. I think I should have waited a bit longer, but oh well. I think it will be good after I pour a pint of sediment in a few days.

Tastes very bitter and delicious!
 
Brewing up 8 gallons of this tonite. Modified the grain bill slightly. Mainly just rounded the amounts up to even numbers. Should help with my OG numbers. Going to use leaf hops this time for the 60 minute additions, and a small amount for dry hopping. I have found that using UK Crystal gives it a bit richer color. I dunno why.....
 
Back
Top