BCS 460 Tell me all about it.

[The Pol]

It would be "nice" to have a manual panel... but if I have the BCS attached to my SSRs, I will still need to go into BCS to turn everything on, my manual switches could only turn them off.

I think I can get by with the BCS for cleaning and other things like using the system for Sous Vide cooking, a manual panel would be nice again, but Id still have to go into BCS to turn all of those outputs on so that I can acutally switch them manually, right?

 

[The Pol]

Question....

I aready know the answer to this, but lets get it out here.

If I am only going to have a "virtual" panel and use the BCS and SSRs to control my elements/pumps. I really need to have dual SSR control for each 240VAC element, otherwise when my control state is OFF, I still have one hot leg to each element. If I want it TRUELY off, I need dual SSR control to each element. I can control multiple SSRs with a single output on the BCS, so... looks like I will need about (10) SSRs to control 4 elements and 2 pumps.

 

[ScubaSteve]

Yeah....you're right....I think this got covered in some other thread.....DSSR's are apparently not as expensive as some have thought. I'll probably go that route, just to save space.

 

[The Pol]

Yeah....you're right....I think this got covered in some other thread.....DSSR's are apparently not as expensive as some have thought. I'll probably go that route, just to save space.

Last I looked, I thought SSRDs were about $100 each... let me keep looking.

I already have (4) SSRs, I guess I only need (4) more... at $15 each with heat sinks...

I have the space to squeeze in (4) more...

 

[Ohio-Ed]

It would be "nice" to have a manual panel... but if I have the BCS attached to my SSRs, I will still need to go into BCS to turn everything on, my manual switches could only turn them off.

I think I can get by with the BCS for cleaning and other things like using the system for Sous Vide cooking, a manual panel would be nice again, but Id still have to go into BCS to turn all of those outputs on so that I can acutally switch them manually, right?

I am planning on switches that will allow me to disconnect the control from the BCS and fire the SSR's directly from the panel using the BCS's auxiliary 5Vdc terminal. The switches will also allow me to disconnect the ALL control voltage from the SSR's directly.

You can use dual ssr's (DSSR) or two ssr's per element. When you consider 2 SSR's AND two heat sinks, the DSSR's may be less expensive (and should be easier to wire). I am leaning toward DSSR's.

Ed

 

[The Pol]

I am planning on switches that will allow me to disconnect the control from the BCS and fire the SSR's directly from the panel using the BCS's auxiliary 5Vdc terminal. The switches will also allow me to disconnect the ALL control voltage from the SSR's directly.

You can use dual ssr's (DSSR) or two ssr's per element. When you consider 2 SSR's AND two heat sinks, the DSSR's may be less expensive (and should be easier to wire). I am leaning toward DSSR's.

Ed

40A SSRs with heatsinks can be had for about $15 each if you look (I have some for that price) Seeing as though I already have (4) I will just get (4) more for $60 total

The wiring shouldnt be much harder, just take the BCS output and daisychain to the other associated SSR, that is what ECC made it sound like I needed to do.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

40A SSRs with heatsinks can be had for about $15 each if you look (I have some for that price) Seeing as though I already have (4) I will just get (4) more for $60 total

The wiring shouldnt be much harder, just take the BCS output and daisychain to the other associated SSR, that is what ECC made it sound like I needed to do.

I agree that is all there is to it.
Where did you find SSR's & Heatsinks for $15? Link?

I was using Aubers as a comparisson... I saw DSSR's for ~$55, and would still need a heatsink.

Ed

 

[yellowcolumbia]

It would be "nice" to have a manual panel... but if I have the BCS attached to my SSRs, I will still need to go into BCS to turn everything on, my manual switches could only turn them off.

Use an on-off-on switch between the bcs and each ssr. 1st on is "auto", using the switched output of the bcs. The 2nd on is "manual" which uses the 5v constant output of the bcs. Off is off.
I'm planning on using a switch like this:http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/SearchResults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&Ntt=908-0069

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Use an on-off-on switch between the bcs and each ssr. 1st on is "auto", using the switched output of the bcs. The 2nd on is "manual" which uses the 5v constant output of the bcs. Off is off.
I'm planning on using a switch like this:http://www.alliedelec.com/Search/SearchResults.aspx?N=0&Ntk=Primary&Ntt=908-0069

Exactly what I'm planning, only a different switch.

Ed

 

[The Pol]

You guys are so tricky! I am just too lazy to do that... I am a lazy slob.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

You guys are so tricky! I am just too lazy to do that... I am a lazy slob.

Hey Lazy Slob ...

I don't believe for a minute that you are lazy or incapable. You have an interface in mind that works for you. My vision is just a bit different.

Now, how bout givin up your source for cheap SSR's & heat sinks?
I need to order something soon. I feel the need, the need to blow sumthing up!

Ed

 

[The Pol]

Hey Lazy Slob ...

I don't believe for a minute that you are lazy or incapable. You have an interface in mind that works for you. My vision is just a bit different.

Now, how bout givin up your source for cheap SSR's & heat sinks?
I need to order something soon. I feel the need, the need to blow sumthing up!

Ed

Ebay....

China....

40A SSR and Heatsink for $16 each... I ordered (8) total

Also bought (2) 25A SSRs for the pumps ($8) each

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ebay....

China....

40A SSR and Heatsink for $16 each... I ordered (8) total

Also bought (2) 25A SSRs for the pumps ($8) each

Did they get them to you fairly quick? I've been afraid to order from the china suppliers in fear of long delays.

 

[The Pol]

Did they get them to you fairly quick? I've been afraid to order from the china suppliers in fear of long delays.

They are VERY open about the ship time...

15 working days. I have time.

Hell, it is taking me 10 working days to get SS plumbing from 120 miles away...

 

[sjlammer]

Pol,

based on my experience this weekend (to be documented) I would strongly encourage you to have some toggle switches on your rig. several times i realized that i had sucked my mash dry while sparging and had to quick flick the switch to turn the pump off. what took me half a second would have taken longer as you grab the mouse, navigate to the check box /win button, and turn the pump off, then wait to the next get post cycle to make the change....

think if you had to do that while hot wort is pouring all over the floor because a fitting slipped, or you sprung a leak, etc.

For the pump, i would choose a Dual pole single throw switch (DPST). This will allow you to use it as an HOA switch (Hand-off-Auto). to toggle on and off you switch from hand to off. to let the BCS control the pump, you place the switch in the auto position.

The same could be said for the heating element if you had an HLT... oh sh*t you just pumped it dry... now your elements are burning up.

just my two cents...

 

[The Pol]

Pol,

based on my experience this weekend (to be documented) I would strongly encourage you to have some toggle switches on your rig. several times i realized that i had sucked my mash dry while sparging and had to quick flick the switch to turn the pump off. what took me half a second would have taken longer as you grab the mouse, navigate to the check box /win button, and turn the pump off, then wait to the next get post cycle to make the change....

think if you had to do that while hot wort is pouring all over the floor because a fitting slipped, or you sprung a leak, etc.

For the pump, i would choose a Dual pole single throw switch (DPST). This will allow you to use it as an HOA switch (Hand-off-Auto). to toggle on and off you switch from hand to off. to let the BCS control the pump, you place the switch in the auto position.

The same could be said for the heating element if you had an HLT... oh sh*t you just pumped it dry... now your elements are burning up.

just my two cents...

Why do you have to quick flip a switch to turn a pump off if your mash runs dry?

I dont have an HLT

If I did have one, by the time I realize I pumped it dry, my element is toast anyway I suppose.

When I have it built, yall can tell me you told me so

 

[sjlammer]

My understanding was that march pumps couldn't run dry...

I won't say i told you so, I'm just in favor of flexibility and redundancy (to a point).

PS... i knew you weren't going to have an HLT!

 

[The Pol]

My understanding was that march pumps couldn't run dry...

I won't say i told you so, I'm just in favor of flexibility and redundancy (to a point).

PS... i knew you weren't going to have an HLT!

You been talking to Yoop?

You cant run them DRY, but that means DRY......

As long as there is even a film of water in there, they are lubricated. I can go out and run mine a week after a brew session and they are still wet enough that they run normally, even without flow.

Dry, means bone dry. They can run without flow... for hours probably, but they cannot run BONE dry.

The only area on my system where I would have an element run dry, would be the RIMS heater if I get a stuck mash. BUT, I am leaving the IN and OUT facing up so nothing can drain out... I am also placing the temp. probe close enough that the BCS should shut it down before I get to boiling dry.

This is all new to me, I am a HERMS guy!

 

[ThePig]

I ordered some lighted pushbutton switches as safeties. I'd like to have manual backups in case my access point takes a crap as my pump starts to squeal.

My setup has a natural gas fired HLT and Kettle, with the mash heat exchanger in the HLT, so I don't need to worry about elements running dry, but I do need to worry about those damn March pumps... I just burned one up after a year pushing through cheap 1/2" (really 3/8"-1/4") chinese nipples. I just moved over to 1/2" Tri's and hard copper to avoid burning another one up....

 

[Brewmoor]

Hey Lazy Slob ...

I don't believe for a minute that you are lazy or incapable. You have an interface in mind that works for you. My vision is just a bit different.

Now, how bout givin up your source for cheap SSR's & heat sinks?
I need to order something soon. I feel the need, the need to blow sumthing up!

Ed

I had great experience ordering my SSR's from china. I got 4 40amp units for $9.99 each including free shipping. (I already have suitable heat sinks) I had them at my door in about 2 weeks and that was over the holidays.

Go to ebay and sort by lowest price shipped.

 

[The Pol]

I had great experience ordering my SSR's from china. I got 4 40amp units for $9.99 each including free shipping. (I already have suitable heat sinks) I had them at my door in about 2 weeks and that was over the holidays.

Go to ebay and sort by lowest price shipped.

This is what I did...

40A SSR + Heatsink for $16 with FREE shipping

Cant really beat that price

I have time, so 2 weeks (which they are open about) to ship isnt a big deal.

I will need a small cooling fan for my E-bay though, any suggestions? I think I want the fan to blow OUT, then I will have a shielded opening on th opposite end so that I can get some flow across the heat sinks.

 

[Brewmoor]

This is what I did...

40A SSR + Heatsink for $16 with FREE shipping

Cant really beat that price

I have time, so 2 weeks (which they are open about) to ship isnt a big deal.

I will need a small cooling fan for my E-bay though, any suggestions? I think I want the fan to blow OUT, then I will have a shielded opening on th opposite end so that I can get some flow across the heat sinks.

What type of power are you going to have availble? What voltage does the BCS run on. 12v DC?

If so then I would go with the largest computer fan you can fit. The larger the fan usually the quieter it is. As well as the best flow. I like to use the 120mm fans in my computers and I am using one on my stir plate.

If all you have is 120v AC then I would look for one of those mini desk fans at an office supply store and modify it to mount in your box.

 

[The Pol]

What type of power are you going to have availble? What voltage does the BCS run on. 12v DC?

If so then I would go with the largest computer fan you can fit. The larger the fan usually the quieter it is. As well as the best flow. I like to use the 120mm fans in my computers and I am using one on my stir plate.

If all you have is 120v AC then I would look for one of those mini desk fans at an office supply store and modify it to mount in your box.

Well, I will have 240VAC going in there, but running 120VAC to the pumps and such is simple off the dist. block. The BCS uses a wall wort, so I will have an outlet in he Ebay to power it.

 

[Brewmoor]

You could get something like this and remove it from the base and mount just the fan. I have one on my desk that is metal. I got it office depot. Not sure how big your wiring box will be but something like that might fit.

http://www.globalindustrial.com/p/hvac/fans/office/4-personal-two-speed-desktop-personal-fan-white?utm_source=nextag&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Office-nextag&infoParam.campaignId=WI

This is kinda cool too!

http://www.vornado.com/ProductDetail.aspx?ISC_Category=+ZIPPI#

 

[The Pol]

This looks viable... something like it.

Clean install, and comes with an AC power source.
http://www.buyextras.com/cafankivast1.html

 

[Brewmoor]

That would be the best solution. No modification needed. You might be able to make it cheaper. Find a 12v or less wall wort and connect it to 120mm computer fan. Set it up on one of the BCS outputs with a standard relay and you would be set.

 

[sjlammer]

You could go with a 120V "muffin" fan. They are more expensive than DC computer fans ($12), but it may be worth it to simplify the install

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...VAC-120MM-COOLING-FAN-SLEEVE-BEARING/-/1.html

 

[wh4tig0t]

You could go with a 120V "muffin" fan. They are more expensive than DC computer fans ($12), but it may be worth it to simplify the install

http://www.allelectronics.com/make-...VAC-120MM-COOLING-FAN-SLEEVE-BEARING/-/1.html

You can pick those up or something similar at rat shack maybe cheaper.

 

[ThePig]

McMaster also has a nice selection of rugged muffin fans, fan guards, leads and thermostats. They have AC and DC. You can get all plastic, or metal frame with plastic blades, or metal frame w/ metal blades. They're more expensive than computer grade DC muffins fans but offer way more flexible config options.

Check out the Equipment Cooling Blowers on page 628 - they work better for water resistant control box installations. While they're not completely water tight, you can install then vertically at the botton of a control box and you do not have to install outflow air vents.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#muffin-fans/=5dixve

 

[jfkriege]

All the small fan choice you will ever need.

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l1/g36/Fans.html?id=AiVpH8q5