Basket Options for Spike 15Gal

[mutex]

Been combing through threads all day looking for an answer to no avail. Does anybody here brew with a basket using a Spike 15 Gallon kettle?

I'm in the process of building up an EBIAB system and think I'm leaning towards a basket over a bag.

The specs of the kettle are 15.8" wide X 19.4" tall. I will have four 1.5" TC couplers centered 2" from the bottom(Main, Heating Element, Whirlpool and RTD Probe) and a 1.5" TC coupler on the lid.

I think I going for something similar to the system @trav77 built.

I have everything either ordered or spec'd out, my last missing item is the basket. I'm guessing either I'm really bad at Google or there isn't an off the shelf product, and I'm going to have to have a custom basket built. I'm just curious what others have used for dimensions.

For reference, I'll mostly be doing 5 gallon batches (high & low gravity) and the occasional 10 gal low gravity brew.

Thanks

 

[RM-MN]

Will this do what you want?

https://www.utahbiodieselsupply.com/brewingfilters.php

 

[Wagon_6]

I’m having utah biodiesel custom build a basket for my 10 gallon Spike kettle

 

[mutex]

Thanks for the replies. I talked myself into increasing the kettle size to a 20 gal (thank goodness I waited on ordering the kettle). The delta in cost is worth it to me so that I don't get frustrated with limitations in the future. That being said, I think I'm going with a basket measured at 17.25w X 17.5h with 3" legs from Utah BioDieal. I've been able to cobble together enough information from other builds that I think this will work.

 

[ttuato]

Thanks for the replies. I talked myself into increasing the kettle size to a 20 gal (thank goodness I waited on ordering the kettle). The delta in cost is worth it to me so that I don't get frustrated with limitations in the future. That being said, I think I'm going with a basket measured at 17.25w X 17.5h with 3" legs from Utah BioDieal. I've been able to cobble together enough information from other builds that I think this will work.

Before you spend the cash on a basket ($300+), I suggest you at least try a bag ($25). I was on same quest as you with 15gal spike - once I used a bag I did not see a need for the mesh basket.

 

[mutex]

To be honest, other than being on the fence with kettle size, bag vs. basket has been my biggest indecision. I finally just picked basket because cleanup appears easier. I’ve read conflicting efficiency claims between bag and basket, so I’m not sure what to believe, but the basket really does seem like it’s easier to maintain to me.

Full disclosure, I’ve never used the eBIAB method, I’m coming from a ghetto 3 vessel AG system as homemade as they come, but have been admiring the BIAB process for a few years before deciding to jump in.

I guess starting with a bag is worth the trial. I’m assuming if I started with a bag I’ll need a false bottom as well?

 

[ttuato]

If you plan to recirculate during mash then I suggest yes get one.

Best/cheapest option I found:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/biabbottom15.htm

Not recirculating - dont need false bottom.

Regarding efficiency - consider that all of these have a dramatic influence efficency in BIAB - grain crush, bag squeeze/basket press, sparge / bucket sparge —- hence the variability of reports.

Also consider cost example - since this the only thing that matters with efficiency:

12lbs two row base in typical IPA grain bill. Cost $1/lb.

12lbs @ 82% eff = 6.5% ABV
13lbs @ 75% eff = 6.5% ABV

You gotta increase efficiency 7% to save ONE DOLLAR a batch

Bag + false bottom = $70
Basket =$300

I would rather spend the extra dollar a batch and use the $230 difference on cold side stuff or kegerator.


FYI - I am not a BIAB acolyte. After about 15 batches, I switches to a psuedo two vessel systems that is bascially a full volume no sparge no squeeze batch. After mash, I drain nothing but clear wort to a bucket and stop transfer once get desired preboil volume, then dump grain and rest of wort (cloudy), clean vessel and dump wort back in for boil step. Efficiency took a hit 82>70 but I produce much better beer with longer shelf stability. Squeeze bag is no bueno and so is cloudy wort to boil (I make NEIPas mainly) - brulosophy exbeeriment is spot on my experience.

 

[wilserbrewer]

For reference, I'll mostly be doing 5 gallon batches (high & low gravity) and the occasional 10 gal low gravity brew.

Thanks

Jmo...I think you are getting ahead of yourself for mostly 5 gallon batches.

How big is your existing kettle? Perhaps electrify it simply and get your feet wet w/ e BIAB before attempting your dream system.

I’m concerned your volume outside the mash vs volume of mash is going lopsided w/ a 20 kettle and 5 gal batches...

Jmo again but I feel your building a “dream”, in my experience and opinion perhaps your overbuilding....

5 triclovers wow!

Edit, I apologize if this comes off as a “negative Nancy” post.

 

[mutex]

@ttuato & @wilserbrewer thanks for all the feedback, you're both absolutely correct, I know I'm over-engineering this thing. I really don't take offense to the comments, and I really appreciate the input from brewers much more experienced than myself. I am going to take the advice and start with a mesh bag from wilserbrewer as opposed to building a custom basket.

My AG experience up to now is a hand-me-down 5gal kettle with a couple of old coolers. I pretty much only (try to) do west coast IPAs with a few NEIPAs mixed in because that's what I enjoy drinking. I have been immersed in the interweb reading anything I can find about eBIAB for a few years before finally deciding to jump in.

I understand that I'm taking a huge leap and that I'm not taking a logical progression. Unfortunately for me, that's my personality, and I don't say that proudly. I'm consumed by fear that after a few months I'll regret my setup limitations because of trying to save a few dollars when I was already spending stupid money. I'm committed to building an eBIAB system, but I'm certainly open to suggestion. After a lot of research, I was sold on jumping from 5 to 15, simply because of the ability to brew 10 gallons of low OG.

I would also love to have go at double IPA (my favorite style), something that I've been reluctant to brew with my current setup. I guess it was my understanding that moving from a 15 to a 20 would make it easier to pull off 5-10 gal batches of a high gravity beer. Not that it would be impossible in a 15, but easier in a 20. Please, if I misunderstood this, I'll gladly size back to a 15 and save some money if I can comfortably pull the higher OG required. 20G kettle size is something I've only recently talked myself into. I have a real concern that Wilsner is on to something with the volume outside the mash vs volume of mash with 5 gallon brews, and it's something that bothered me from the start.

Thanks again, I really do appreciate the help. I guess I'm lucky I didn't share my plans to move from fermenting in buckets to a temp control conical otherwise you'd all really think I was a jackass

 

[RM-MN]

Since you are posting in the BIAB section and posting about using BIAB I'd like to make some assumptions that may or may not be warranted.

After a lot of research, I was sold on jumping from 5 to 15, simply because of the ability to brew 10 gallons of low OG.

I would also love to have go at double IPA (my favorite style), something that I've been reluctant to brew with my current setup. I guess it was my understanding that moving from a 15 to a 20 would make it easier to pull off 5-10 gal batches of a high gravity beer. Not that it would be impossible in a 15, but easier in a 20

Why do you think you are limited to low OG 10 gallon batches in a 15 gallon kettle. The only reason to be limited that way is if you are unwilling to do a sparge and only have access to poorly milled grains. With grains that are properly milled for BIAB (you may have to get a mill and do it yourself) your efficiency can be quite high even with a fairly big beer. With higher efficiency you can work with a smaller grain bill so there is more room for the water without overflowing. Add a sparge when you pull the bag of grains and you raise the efficiency and get the volume up to where it needs to be if you aren't able to do a full volume mash.

 

[ttuato]

Great advice here - exactly why I went with 15gal kettle over 20gal.

....Why do you think you are limited to low OG 10 gallon batches in a 15 gallon kettle. The only reason to be limited that way is if you are unwilling to do a sparge and only have access to poorly milled grains. With grains that are properly milled for BIAB (you may have to get a mill and do it yourself) your efficiency can be quite high even with a fairly big beer. With higher efficiency you can work with a smaller grain bill so there is more room for the water without overflowing. Add a sparge when you pull the bag of grains and you raise the efficiency and get the volume up to where it needs to be if you aren't able to do a full volume mash.

 

[Nmnbrewer]

20 gallon spike with Utah biodiesel basket. 2 years and probably 100 sessions mostly 5 gallon batches. Can easily do a 10 gallon higher abv batch with several gallons to spare. Did a 5 gallon imperial stout with a 35 lb malt bill. Used extra mash water and extended boil. Used the whole volume practically. I have never had to sparge and I’m happy for that.

 

[Ridenour64]

I went with the 15 gallon spike kettle and a wilser bag recently. I have no regrets on that purchase. Just used it for my first time over the weekend and all went well. The bag is really durable and easy to clean. Really I just submerged it a few times in soapy water, rinsed it and hung it to dry.

I did lose temp faster than I wanted during my mash so I just raised the bag, flipped the element on, re lowered and then stirred again. - and from what I’ve read on here, that was probably unnecessary.

 

[aaron_m]

I recently went through the same thing when I built my electric biab setup a couple months ago. I went back and forth on the 15 vs 20 gallon Spike kettle as well. I do 5 and 10 gallon batches and most of my beers are in the 6%-8% abv range. When I saw that the 20 gallon kettle was only $40 more than the 15 it seemed like an obvious choice and I haven't had any issues doing 5 gallon batches in it.

I really wanted to do a basket as well but with what I had already spent on the kettle, control panel and other misc stuff, I couldn't stomach the additional cost of a nice custom basket. I went with a wilser bag and pulley and have been very happy with it. I use a pizza screen with legs added to keep the bag off of the element so I can do step mashes or maintain temp during the mash.

All in all, I'm very happy with my setup and can think of a lot of other things I'd rather spend the couple hundred dollars on instead of a custom basket for my kettle.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

20 gallon spike with Utah biodiesel basket. 2 years and probably 100 sessions mostly 5 gallon batches. Can easily do a 10 gallon higher abv batch with several gallons to spare. Did a 5 gallon imperial stout with a 35 lb malt bill. Used extra mash water and extended boil. Used the whole volume practically. I have never had to sparge and I’m happy for that. View attachment 614836

Nmnbrewer, very nice setup! I am considering 2 vessel vs BIAB, just planning right now. I am happy to see you doing 5 gallon batches in this 20gallon kettle with no issues. Seems to be very flexible with 5-10gal batches. Question...can you give some specifics on your basket dimensions? I am assuming that its ~17.3" diameter considering the kettle is 17.7"? I am also assuming that your basket has no feet and hangs from the top flush with the kettle top like the pictures I saw of your gear (in another thread). Is this correct? what is the height of your basket? trying to determine how low it actually goes and how much space there is between your element and the bottom of basket. Lastly, I saw in another thread a recirc hose you use to just drop in over the top. So you keep it this way or do you have a port into the kettle lid? Thanks!