A real man would just make a 50lb hopper.
WOW! this thread went to hell pretty quick....
I crushed in for Denny Conn's RYE IPA tonight.
It was nice just filling the hopper once for this 16 (ish) pound grist.
Oh... and last summer at band camp...I was crushing in some grains for a stout.....
More time to eat pretzels.....Snyder's?
BTW, I see you have the cordless drill. What happened to the old girl with the frayed cord and exposed wires?![]()
Yeah...well...one night I was crushing in for a big 11 gallon APA and about 60% of the way through...she started smoking, sputtering...sparking, and just generally dying. You know how there's nothing quite like the smell of new electronics right out of the box?
There's really nothing like the smell of old electronics (or power tools) that are dying right in front of you.
She died happy.
She died brewing.
That's the way I want to go. (Right behind my first choice of being put down by a $1,000 a night hooker).
I've saved her "remains" and I will mount her soon for posterity.
Oh... and last summer at band camp...I was crushing in some grains for a stout.....
I chew all my grain up until it feels right in my mouth and spit it out into my mash ton. Gives me a good feel for the flavor too so I can adjust with more crystal 40 on the fly if needed.
When's the next swap by the way?
I like the 15# since I do 10-gallon batches.
I can do most of my 1040(ish) beers with just one dump into the hopper.
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What gap do you have yours set at BierMuncher?
If you know me, you know my answer is "I dunno".![]()
If you know me, you know my answer is "I dunno".
It varies greatly. I reduce the gap as much as possible for wheat and rye malt (and still run it through twice).
There are more factors involved than just the gap. The diameter of the rollers, the coarseness of the knurl and the speed at which the mill is turning can all affect the crush. It only takes a few stuck mashes to make one back off some on the crush. Determining the optimum crush is something of an art. Once you get it right, it's easy to recognize a good crush and repeat it time after time.
I just crushed 11lbs of Belgian Pilsner with my brand spankin new barley crusher at factory settings. Crush looks great, alot finer than my LHBS.
Worried I will get too high of efficiency. I want to nail this beer and really dont wanna over shoot.
Nah, I've ran my grain through twice at the homebrew store and it was similar and didnt get stuck.If it was set at .039 it will be too fine using a drill... get ready for stuck sparging.... and the highest efficiency you've seen on your equipment.
Great product but mine will get some adjustment before it's used again.
If it was set at .039 it will be too fine using a drill... get ready for stuck sparging.... and the highest efficiency you've seen on your equipment.
Great product but mine will get some adjustment before it's used again.
Why does the drill speed make a difference? The gap is still the same size regardless of speed.
Makes sense. I will find out tomorrow if I've overdone it. Problem is that it is a golden strong ale that I'm brewing and i really want it to be done perfectly. I've sifted through the crushed grain and it seems the husks are pretty well in tact.You want to crush the grain, not shred it. At too high a speed it tears the husk apart to much.
I run my 18 volt cordless dril on low speed while my wife slowly pours the grain into the hopper, making sure there is always some grain in the hopper but its not full. I have been getting 80% efficiency with this method so it works for me.
You want to crush the grain, not shred it. At too high a speed it tears the husk apart to much.
I run my 18 volt cordless dril on low speed while my wife slowly pours the grain into the hopper, making sure there is always some grain in the hopper but its not full. I have been getting 80% efficiency with this method so it works for me.