Avoiding doing the same errors

[pmaster]

I'll be doing my 2nd batch this weekend. The first one didn't go so well for two main reasons:

- I stressed the yeast because the gravity of the wort for the yeast starter was way too high (used LME and didn't use the correct volume)
- I put too much water (about 2 gals too much!), and since I only realized it after the end of my boil (90min boil, with Saaz(15min) and Styrian Goldings(60mins), I had to boil 45-60min longer. I also added about 1lbs of LME I had left, which helped raise the gravity a little bit but I still missed my gravity (1.062 instead of 1.072).

The beer tastes like dirt, literally. Obviously I need to re-taste it once it'll be properly carbonated, but I doubt the overpowering taste will go away.

I want to avoid these errors on my second batch. The starter is perfect this time (started it yesterday). However I had some worries about the hops. Should I use the ones I have left (my recipe for this weekend also calls for these two), or get some new hops? Part of me is worried the taste MIGHT have been partly because of the hops, and not only because of the over-boiling and yeast starter?
What would you do in my place?

 

[JawZziff]

I'd use the hops. I think the reason you are worried it is the hops is actually because you over boiled. the longer you boil a hop the more bitter it makes your beer. this is called isomerization. so an additional 45-60 minute boil for hops such as saaz and Goldings that have both been described as earthy is possibly why your beer tastes like dirt. so go for it but make sure your volumes and boil times are correct this time.

and for that last batch, you'd be amazed what time can do. forget it in a closet for half a year and see how it tastes. those hops can mellow out some.

 

[pmaster]

Alright, I'll give it a go. I prefer not to waste anyway...

 

[IslandLizard]

As long as those hops don't smell cheesy they're probably fine. Store hops in your freezer and don't have any air in the bags, squeeze it all out.

Read up on how to brew properly with extracts. Plenty of threads to learn from here.
There's no need for 90 minute boils, and don't boil all that extract for that long. Use only half to a third for the boil, and add the rest at the end, after you've turned the flame off.

 

[pmaster]

As long as those hops don't smell cheesy they're probably fine. Store hops in your freezer and don't have any air in the bags, squeeze it all out.

Read up on how to brew properly with extracts. Plenty of threads to learn from here.
There's no need for 90 minute boils, and don't boil all that extract for that long. Use only half to a third for the boil, and add the rest at the end, after you've turned the flame off.

Yeah they are in a zip lock bag in the freezer. I was actually brewing all grain. I added the LME to try and get closer to the target OG. It was Pils grain thus the 90min boil (and was specified in the recipe).
I'll go ahead with brew #2 this Saturday, wish me luck!

 

[kh54s10]

Learn your boil off rate then collect only the wort amount you need for the boil to end up with the correct amount. Your beer should taste bitter, not like dirt. I suspect the problem is not with the boil or the hops but something else.

What did the gravity of the starter calculate using LME instead of DME. Unless it was WAY high I doubt that was the issue either.

Also the taste of a beer can change quite a bit from bottling day until it is bottle conditioned. 3 weeks at about 70 degrees. Don't give up on the first one yet.

Invest in a vacuum food bag sealer. It is well worth the investment for increasing the longevity of stored hops.

 

[m00ps]

Even given those errors, your beer shouldnt taste like dirt at any stage in the process. Maybe the off flavors are due to improper handling fo the yeast, but no one can be sure unless you post your entire process and recipe.

Either way, I stopped doing 90min boils with pilsner after the first brew with a pilsner base. DMS isnt the boogeyman that outdated info makes it out to be

 

[pmaster]

Learn your boil off rate then collect only the wort amount you need for the boil to end up with the correct amount. Your beer should taste bitter, not like dirt. I suspect the problem is not with the boil or the hops but something else.

What did the gravity of the starter calculate using LME instead of DME. Unless it was WAY high I doubt that was the issue either.

Also the taste of a beer can change quite a bit from bottling day until it is bottle conditioned. 3 weeks at about 70 degrees. Don't give up on the first one yet.

Invest in a vacuum food bag sealer. It is well worth the investment for increasing the longevity of stored hops.

For the yeast starter I made the mistake of using volume (I now have a scale) to measure the LME after finding the equivalence ratio of LME to DME. I ended up with something like 1.097 density if I recall correctly. I'll look into a vacuum sealer...could be useful for other stuff too. I'm bottling the first batch tonight to free the carboy for Saturday. I'll also properly compute my boil-off tonight.

 

[m00ps]

For the yeast starter I made the mistake of using volume (I now have a scale) to measure the LME after finding the equivalence ratio of LME to DME. I ended up with something like 1.097 density if I recall correctly. I'll look into a vacuum sealer...could be useful for other stuff too. I'm bottling the first batch tonight to free the carboy for Saturday. I'll also properly compute my boil-off tonight.

Holy crap. Thats like Russian Imperial Stout or Barleywine territory. Those poor yeast cells....

 

[pmaster]

Holy crap. Thats like Russian Imperial Stout or Barleywine territory. Those poor yeast cells....

Haha yeah I was mean to them! If I recall correctly I found that 1part dme was aroud 1.25 lme. So since I needed about 1 cup dme I used about 1.25 cup lme. I don't know what I was thinking, volume is obviously not the same as weight. I would've needed like half a cup of lme...
I've been gentler this time (used DME) for my next batch.

 

[pmaster]

I'm tasting the beer again (just bottled). Its drinkeable I guess. I mean...I'm probably gonna drink it all instead of throwing it away. So who knows, I'll sample one each month and see how it goes.

All set for brew #2 though. I have my boil-rate at around 1.15gal/h. Beersmith tells me to add 5.62gal based on my input (around 7.5lbs malt) to end with a 3 gal batch, with 90min boil Does that sound right? I guess just with the boil I'll lose 1.65gal, so that leaves me with 4 gal, minus trub, etc...close to 3.

 

[pmaster]

Just finished the second batch. It really went smooth this time! Ended up overshooting the gravity (1.073 instead of 1.069) but otherwise no problem at all. I.had a quick taste of the wort, its pretty good, i have high hopes for this batch!

One question: after I chilled the wort and was emptying my keytle in my carboy, my bazooka filter got clumped and nothing would go though...I ended up using my hands (after dipping them in sanitizer) to unplug it. Is that a big no-no? I'm guessing it's not something recommended but probably still fine?

 

[pmaster]

That yeast is explosive...the temp started at around 66-68, and even though the room is at 66, the carboy now reads 74...I'm trying to cool it down a little bit

View attachment 1457293604060.jpg

 

[JawZziff]

same pilsner recipe? what yeast did you use?

 

[pmaster]

No, this one is a Leffe clone (Revvy's recipe)

WLP530 is the yeast. Temp went down to 72 and I have less overflow now, it seems to have calmed down

 

[pmaster]

Thought I'd come back and update concerning that first batch I made. Its been about 2 months now, and the taste of the beer really improved in the bottle. I had one today and wow, its actually very nice, even my girlfriend approved!
The dirt/earthy taste is still there in the background but much less pronounced, and its actually the taste of the hops now I recognize it as I've done another batch with those two (Styrian goldings,Saaz).

All in all I guess I'm really lucky it turned out so well given what went wrong. Cheers!