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The IAC (idle air control) motor on the throttle body has been a problem on all Dodge and Jeep trucks, it gets coked up and sticks, I don't think that is your problem because it is only active at Idle and you had a problem while driving. Again what engine is it? If it's a 4.7 it could just be a bad coil on cyl #2 since it has a coil per cylinder, if it's a 3.9, 5.2 or a 5.9 it is most likely the crank sensor.

Was the check engine light on at all? You did say that someone at some point "reset" the computer so there must have been a code of some sort in there even if it was a pending code (does not turn the light on till the next fault).

When you were driving it and it was running like crap was it all the time or did it smooth out somewhat at a idle? If the dealer took the heads off I would think they were looking for a mechanical fault like a burnt valve, bad guide or a ring issue but as I said before that is not a problem that will fix itself and run good sometimes and not others it will run like crap all the time. And yes I agree with you if they are taking the heads off they better give you a concrete answer as to what is wrong and why you need a rebuild.


When it would run bad it was bad. I mean when it was driving bad it was idling bad even in park. But then a few hours later running as smooth as could be. Acts up in the early morning hours then fine in the afternoon once it warms up..or so it would appear.
 
You checked for any vaccum leaks? This is what I would do. I am no mechanic by any means just running down in my mind what I would do. First check vaccum leaks. Second clean throttle body and I AC. Third change o2 sensors if no help after then change coils and plugs. The factory plugs are "good" to 100k miles according to dodge
 
Ok so I read the whole thread, can you tell me what engine it is, auto? 4x4? And what you are describing doesnt sound like a "low compression" problem if so it would do it all the time. Has anyone done a fuel pressure test? It could also be a bad wire with a small crack in it and under the right conditions causing a miss. It could be a bad injector. I am a mechanic and have a 96 Ram with 230k on it so Iv been down this road with some of what you are describing but more info on the vehicle will help.

4.7 auto 2WD


I guess if I knew how to check all the stuff everyone is suggesting I would not have taken it right to a shop. I can afford to pay (reasonably) to have my truck fixed and don't really have the time to fool around with it. I am not a motor head and in my younger days when I did fool around it usually took me a lot longer and was fustrating mainly because I was trying to fix my sole means of transportation just like now. Because I work nights and the wife days I can take her car to work.

I rebuit the top half of a Ford 351 in my 20's (well, took heads to be redone) and it took a month because I was doing it from a Chiltons manual, by myself, and trying to do it after work before it got dark (outside) and on weekends. It was a learning experience but not a good idea in the end.

I guess I wanted opinions if I was getting ripped off as I think so and apparently I am.
 
I had a 2006 Durango 4.7 2wd it did exactly as you says your truck does I fixed the problem so I thought I did.new iac new coils new injectors the works. It fixed it for um maybe 2 months now I don't drive it anywhere where there is stop and go traffic. I took it to McDonald's a week ago and it died twice on me in line ran like **** rpms shot way up trying to keep it from dying then dead. Started right up though going and stopping frequently kills it everytime. Even sitting at a red light the rpms will go up and down acting like it wants to die then shoot up to save it. Never dies though unless like I say. Stopping and going frequently
 
I had a 2006 Durango 4.7 2wd it did exactly as you says your truck does I fixed the problem so I thought I did.new iac new coils new injectors the works. It fixed it for um maybe 2 months now I don't drive it anywhere where there is stop and go traffic. I took it to McDonald's a week ago and it died twice on me in line ran like **** rpms shot way up trying to keep it from dying then dead. Started right up though going and stopping frequently kills it everytime. Even sitting at a red light the rpms will go up and down acting like it wants to die then shoot up to save it. Never dies though unless like I say. Stopping and going frequently


Exact description of my problem just doesn't happen all the time. Word of advice.....don't take it to the dealership!!
 
I sent an email to Dodge explaining my dissatisfaction with the serviced I received there and sent the copy of the email I sent to the owner, besides it is pretty accurate why I am complaining. $1200 to get my truck back in the same shape is was when I dropped it off?? I also told them if I am not contacted I will probably be contacting an attorney.
 
Wife's Durango acted like that and it was the Crank position. Didn't fail completely at the time, just flagged that it misread a few times.

It's a sensor located lower right side on block. Access through right wheelhouse. Remove splash shield.

Mine was rusted solid. I had to grind it out with a dremel once I had tore it up enough with various other things. Small cost part. Big hassle to replace.

You should get an error flag on that.
 
Exact description of my problem just doesn't happen all the time. Word of advice.....don't take it to the dealership!!

Yep mines doesn't do it all the time either. I talked to a buddy today and his Durango is doing it now. New I AC and cleaning throttle body will remedy it for short time but it will go back to acting up. I got rid of it cause my wife was afraid to drive it
 
When we first bought our Durango it stalled on startup. Happened right at the dealer as we were going to pick it up (used). I told the saleslady that I'd take it home and see if I could find out what was wrong, but if I didn't like what I found, I'd return it in 3 days. Didn't happen again fro about a week. It happened a few more times randomly.

Since the starter was starting to crank a little slow I changed the battery and it hasn't happened since. Apparently the low voltage supplied to the sensors made them give bogus readings, so the TPS didn't know where it was at or where it was supposed to be.

The IAC and TPS are, from my experience, a common issue on Dodge vehicles. Usually not expensive or difficult to clean or replace though.
 
The trans could def be the problem here since dodge had alot of bad solenoids goin in them. But as far as compression call them back and ask what each cylinder was.. if cyl 2 was only 5-15psi less than other cylinders then thats really not a big deal. Heck on Jeep 4.0l's i have seen it where all of the cylinders are 20psi diff from each other.
 
I was a tech at ford dealerships for about 7 years, and if that were to happen at the 2 dealerships i worked at and they gave u a guarantee, then that would have been someone's a$$! Service writer would have been fired for sure and the tech wouldn's have been paid for the work done, unless it was all on the service writer. Sorry this happened to you, it really bothers me when i see this crap. I went to UTI in Texas and had a pashion for working on cars, but working in the industry destroyed my passion because of things like this. I hate to see someone get screwed like that.
 
The trans could def be the problem here since dodge had alot of bad solenoids goin in them. But as far as compression call them back and ask what each cylinder was.. if cyl 2 was only 5-15psi less than other cylinders then thats really not a big deal. Heck on Jeep 4.0l's i have seen it where all of the cylinders are 20psi diff from each other.

This is true. I had a solenoid replaced in mine. Fixed it for a min then started acting up again. Then I did the other stuff. Mine threw a code for the solenoid then after that was fixed it never threw a code even when it started acting up again
 
It could be a fuel pressure issue as well. You should have the non-dealer mechanic pull the fuel tank, replace the filter and pump.
 
The trans could def be the problem here since dodge had alot of bad solenoids goin in them. But as far as compression call them back and ask what each cylinder was.. if cyl 2 was only 5-15psi less than other cylinders then thats really not a big deal. Heck on Jeep 4.0l's i have seen it where all of the cylinders are 20psi diff from each other.

Both shops said no, not a trans problem. It does it even in park...but I don't know the workings of a transmission if it and bog down an engine in park. I assume in park there is still a connection to the engine...forgot to neutral.
 
Well, still no word back from the owner or general manager (they are related, brothers I think) anyway I should have called them but you got to be ready to argue, These guys deal with dissatisfied customers all the time and got their routine down pat. I know I have dealt with owners of dealerships and they defend their people..not you.

But I did get to talk to a guy from Ram (Ram is a separate division from Dodge now) and it was like taking to a lawyer. He told me he represents me as a customer but also Ram as his company. He told me he is not a mechanic so he doesn't know engines or will give an opinion of a diagnosis. Say his job is to make sure service manager follows proper procedure. I asked him about the verbal guarantee I was given. He didn't seem to care about that and said if the guy denies it is his word against mine...no case. I questioned the ethics of it and he said they have no actual control of how a dealership handles that. What I said? Ram as a corporation doesn't care how this guy represents your company? He said yes they do, but his job is to make sure they follow proper procedure such as making sure they replicate a failure before doing work and get approval from customer before starting work. He also said he has no power to tell them what to do. Only suggest and try to persuade them to do good by me and keep me as a customer.

He was calling the service manager today to get his side of the story. I haven’t heard from him yet, said he will call, but from what he tells me he can do and from the story I am sure the service manager will give him I am not expecting anything.

Final bill $1200 and change. I haven't picked it up yet.
 
Just spoke to the guy from Ram who is handling my complaint. Says he was on phone with dealership for a good part of the afternoon. He now needs to speak with the dealership I bought the truck at (new). I didn't think at the time to ask why. I see no reason..unless he is tracking down my service record. But, I took it to another for that and then later did oil changes on my own and then to mom pop shops. Besides, what does that have to do with the service manager making me a verbal garantee only to not honor it?

If the dealership was willing to make good I would think they would have made an offer by now. Doesn't sound good to me.
 
I was a tech at ford dealerships for about 7 years, and if that were to happen at the 2 dealerships i worked at and they gave u a guarantee, then that would have been someone's a$$! Service writer would have been fired for sure and the tech wouldn's have been paid for the work done, unless it was all on the service writer. Sorry this happened to you, it really bothers me when i see this crap. I went to UTI in Texas and had a pashion for working on cars, but working in the industry destroyed my passion because of things like this. I hate to see someone get screwed like that.

Well, that wouldn't bother me he got fired but I think that is kind of harsh. Maybe written up, no raise and no bonus and they give me my money back would be fine for me. As for the mechanics..they do as they are told I would think.

Thanks for your concern. Bothers me too that I won't go there again for service or to purchase. Even if I got all my money back. What they are trying to do to me is wrong. Stand by your word.
 
Ok, for all you who are interested.
Ram guy called back again speaking like a lawyer, not a caring person. First said I did not provide proof of last oil check the dealer demanded. I flipped....I said this guy is lying, he never asked for that!!! He said I am sorry but I cannot more forward with this case until you prove proof. I asked what date did he say again?? (because I had one done not long ago and he said...."Oh, I am so sorry!!! I got mixed up with another case"
Oh great..so he then says based on his research the claim for the dealreship stands. I again questioned the verbal garantee and he said "Sir, that is not of my concern..etc. But they are charging you 1/2 price for labor, only 6 hrs for 12" I told him that was not good enought and he lost a customer and hung up!! Then I thought, the hourly charge is $99.XX hr and the bill was $1,200..bull. I called back an got answering machine but told him even that was wrong (got his ex).

So, I call dealership and ask to speak to owner or general manager (brothers) and got the general manager. He was very nice and understanding, pleasant change from an aragont bully know it all service manager. After a long discussion he agreed to speak to manager and techs and would test drive my truck.

He called back and made me offer.

1) split bill=$600 truck runs fine.
2) $3,500 and do whatever it takes to fix my truck 6mo garantee.
3) $2,500 for my truck trade in.

Says has a 2012 1500 for 18,000 minus my $2,500 trade.

Going there tomorrow to look at trade truck..only thing is short bed, mine is 8' and I want that and I have toolbox (dual sattle bags) and tonto cover..but that has seen it's days..plus bed liner.

I am leaning toward the new truck and trade in.

What do you think??

I think never call Ram/Dodge corporate for help..call the owner!!!
 
Hmm.... new trucks are nice...

Is that 2WD?? Still that sound like a decent price. Which motor does it have?

Yep...and full waranty.

Gotta be 2wd...you be crazy homer to think 4wd 2012 for 18,00 - trade..:D

But tool box, soft cover cost me about 2k back then...gona miss em plus the 8' bed for my big junk:D

Don't know, figure I go see tomorrow..me not like I take the truck for $6,000 I think. Got to be more stuff ready to go and some stuff I already know not right.. like power windows slow.
 
jgln said:
Ok, for all you who are interested.
Ram guy called back again speaking like a lawyer, not a caring person. First said I did not provide proof of last oil check the dealer demanded. I flipped....I said this guy is lying, he never asked for that!!! He said I am sorry but I cannot more forward with this case until you prove proof. I asked what date did he say again?? (because I had one done not long ago and he said...."Oh, I am so sorry!!! I got mixed up with another case"
Oh great..so he then says based on his research the claim for the dealreship stands. I again questioned the verbal garantee and he said "Sir, that is not of my concern..etc. But they are charging you 1/2 price for labor, only 6 hrs for 12" I told him that was not good enought and he lost a customer and hung up!! Then I thought, the hourly charge is $99.XX hr and the bill was $1,200..bull. I called back an got answering machine but told him even that was wrong (got his ex).

So, I call dealership and ask to speak to owner or general manager (brothers) and got the general manager. He was very nice and understanding, pleasant change from an aragont bully know it all service manager. After a long discussion he agreed to speak to manager and techs and would test drive my truck.

He called back and made me offer.

1) split bill=$600 truck runs fine.
2) $3,500 and do whatever it takes to fix my truck 6mo garantee.
3) $2,500 for my truck trade in.

Says has a 2012 1500 for 18,000 minus my $2,500 trade.

Going there tomorrow to look at trade truck..only thing is short bed, mine is 8' and I want that and I have toolbox (dual sattle bags) and tonto cover..but that has seen it's days..plus bed liner.

I am leaning toward the new truck and trade in.

What do you think??

I think never call Ram/Dodge corporate for help..call the owner!!!

After all this, you're going to buy a car from them?
 
After all this, you're going to buy a car from them?

Possibly...just to reduce my loss. I mean $2,500 is not a bad trade in considering the condition. It has a few other annoying cosmetic issues. I am looking at other dealers too but I am dealing with the owner now not floor salesman. I might be able to talk him into a better deal.

But from here on out only take it there for under warranty stuff, may take to another dealer even then so I don't have to look at that service manager again.
 
Well, met with the owner last Saturday morning. I first made sure my truck ran ok, it ran fine. I then looked at the truck he wanted to show me. Stripped down 6cyc with tiny bed no liner. I didn't like it. I again stated my dissatisfaction having to pay to get my truck back based on the guarantee given to me but not held and he said it was my word against the service manager (so he was denying it). He wasn't budging so I paid the $600 and got my truck back. I don't know what I will do about that.

Anyway, I looked at Chevy and Ford and they were all more expensive and I like the look of Dodge trucks and cars so I went to a couple dealerships and wound up buying a 2012 Ram 1500 5.7 Hemi 8' bed, regular cab, black. I looked for a leftover 2011 but here were only one or two and expensive. I got $2,200 trade for my truck and few thousand knocked off on top of that. There is another Dodge dealership around me I will be taking the truck to for warranty service, after that to a local shop.

I have heard horror stories from Ford and Chevy owners also so....


Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
 
You know, I was so ready to give Dodge my money again (I still have my 2000 dakota) but now I come to find you can't get them with a manual trans. WTF is the world coming to when you can't get a god damned pickup truck with a stick shift?
 
What is crazy is I drove that truck 70+ miles that day looking for a new truck and not a single hickup. RPM needle as steady as could be. Has to be something else wrong with that truck than a bad engine.
 
You know, I was so ready to give Dodge my money again (I still have my 2000 dakota) but now I come to find you can't get them with a manual trans. WTF is the world coming to when you can't get a god damned pickup truck with a stick shift?

Last I heard you can get them with a stick but you gotta buy a commercial/work truck and it's a special order and stripped down too.

A guy who used to work here was complaining about it, so he dropped a commercial tranny in his truck and modified it to accept it. The price of the stripped down work truck was not bad, but he liked his options better. The custom fit tranny was also much cheaper since it was used.

I couldn't believe all of the things he had to do to get it to mate up and fit the truck.
 
He called back and made me offer.

1) split bill=$600 truck runs fine.
2) $3,500 and do whatever it takes to fix my truck 6mo garantee.
3) $2,500 for my truck trade in.


Personally, I'd go for option 1. Why go for a new truck through a dealership that has treated you like this? Of course they are going to try to persuade you to do option 3 because that is their biggest money maker. Think of it this way, they then have your truck to sell or auction and then also get you locked into a new sale. Bite the bullet and pay the $600. I don't blame you for wanting a new truck, and I would probably be looking for one soon in your position, but don't buy another truck from them, trade it in at another dealership.


EDIT: I have heard horror stories from Ford and Chevy owners also so....

I bought a used GMC last year from a large GM dealer in the area and in less than 6 months its been in the shop 4 times for very expensive repairs--thankfully I decided to fall for their warranty package. I normally think those are a scam, but I bought the truck in the middle of the summer knowing I wouldn't get a chance to really try out the 4-wheel drive until it snowed, and the cost of repairing that alone would have been more expensive than the warranty package they were offering...its paid for itself. I've had it in twice for issues with the HVAC system where the fans in the dashboard just stopped working, or the switch to change it from vents to defrost stopped functioning. Supposedly those two repairs would have cost me $1400 without the warranty. Then I had to replace the steering shaft, a control arm, and a few other parts which without the warranty would have cost $900, and just 2 weeks ago I had to replace the water pump because we lost heat in the truck at the best time possible--going down the highway in the middle of an ice storm. That would have been a $700 repair. I have the warranty for another 2 years or 22,000 miles...I am terrified to know what its going to cost me to keep that truck after it runs out.
 
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