Auber PID constantly firing

[reuliss]

Folks, I have a new control panel set up for my mash tun. You can see it here: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/another-wiring-diagram-request-help-much-appreciated-421520/

I'm right now in the midst of my third batch with it. First two times,it worked great. Today for some reason when I turn on the heat, the pid isn't firing the element on and off. It's simply turning it on and scotching my wort until I turn it off. Any ideas? Perhaps an incorrect setting in the pid someplace?

 

[stlbeer]

I have not read through your build thread so I'm just throwing this out there.

The SSR might have failed. If your SSR is the type that has an LED on it, see if it goes off and on. Also check your PID to make sure it is indicating it's working properly, ie. calling for heat as needed. When they fail it is usually in the closed position. If the indicator lights are working properly and the element is on, replace the SSR.

 

[The10mmKid]

You make no mention of the displayed process temperature.
Is it rising above the setpoint temp?
Is there a temperature probe problem?

Is there a chance the PID could be running in manual mode unknowingly?
Like at the factory setting of 100% output.

If the SSR is shorted, the element may heat up as soon as you power up your control. Our IT software is blocking your diagram at the moment, so I can't help much with that.

A clamp-on amp meter comes in real handy with troubleshooting elements.

'da Kid

 

[stlbeer]

Well, evidently I have read through your build as I provided a schematic to you.

Let me know how the SSR test turns out. It's pretty easy to find out it's dead.

 

[reuliss]

Well, evidently I have read through your build as I provided a schematic to you.

Let me know how the SSR test turns out. It's pretty easy to find out it's dead.

SSR checked out. I actually called auber tech support. The entire box checked out and when I tested functionality at lower temps, it worked. So, I have no idea what was going on. In response to the question above, it was blowing past my set temp. I was targeting 148. Temp in the tube went to 160 in about 5 seconds, so I'd kill the power to it. PID was not in manual mode.

This was pretty frustrating since the box worked at a lower temp. I should add that I've used the box at normal mash temps before, and it worked fine.

Anyway, I did another auto tune, so hopefully I won't run into this phenomenon again.

 

[The10mmKid]

Is the output on your Auber also SSR?

We would occasionally run into a situation where there was enough 'leakage' through the controller SSR to allow the high power SSR to stay on.

Yes, it takes near full voltage to trigger the high power SSR, but a lot less to maintain it.

Or solution was to use controllers with relay outputs . . . . or Mercury Displacement Relays on controllers with SSR outputs.
(we had plenty of each)

I think there are some drop-down resistance bridges made to address this leakage also.

As a side note, Auber makes no mention of driving an SSR with model #SYL-2372:

3.3 Control output connection
The SSR output of the controller SYL-2372 can be used to turn on a contactor or a solenoid valve.

Just giving you a possible scenario,
'da Kid

 

[The10mmKid]

At what temp are you performing Auto-Tune?

Our procedure is to enable Auto-Tune as the temp rise approaches 10degF of setpoint.

I guess I'll have to read up on the Auber controllers if I'm gonna be much help on here.

My experience is with the following controllers:
Eurotherm, Honeywell, Red Lion(hate them) and my favorite OMRON

'da Kid

 

[reuliss]

At what temp are you performing Auto-Tune?

Our procedure is to enable Auto-Tune as the temp rise approaches 10degF of setpoint.

I guess I'll have to read up on the Auber controllers if I'm gonna be much help on here.

My experience is with the following controllers:
Eurotherm, Honeywell, Red Lion(hate them) and my favorite OMRON

'da Kid

I set target temp for 155 and started auto tune at 145.

 

[Dgonza9]

I recently figured out that my PID has a default autotune offset of 10 degrees. Had to go into the menu and set the atdu offset to zero. After autotuning, my PID was dialed in.

Could be your PID isn't able to autotune because of the offset. In effect, you are trying to autotune with a set point that is the same as your starting point.

Just an idea.

 

[reuliss]

I recently figured out that my PID has a default autotune offset of 10 degrees. Had to go into the menu and set the atdu offset to zero. After autotuning, my PID was dialed in.

Could be your PID isn't able to autotune because of the offset. In effect, you are trying to autotune with a set point that is the same as your starting point.

Just an idea.

It's a great idea. I'll check that. Thanks.