Auber Cube 2E vs BrewCommander?

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gmmoran

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I’m looking to do 5 gal batches eBIAB with 220v 5500w full mash no spare. Is there much difference in performance and/or capabilities? The Cube uses an EZBoil and has 2 x 110v plugs and is a bit cheaper. The BrewCommander has a spiffy touch screen with single 110v and needs a separate 110v outlet. Anything else I’m missing here?
 
Guess I’m not missing anything. I think I’m going with the Cube. It’s a bit cheaper and I kind of like the old school oscilloscope look. And it’s got an EZBoil.
 
price is pretty close. It does have an oldschool look. probably similar features. I liked the brew commander with touchscreen. made me want to switch to electric. haven't done so yet so I don't have experience with either. brewcommander can be programmed to turn on in future (like next morning while your're sleeping) that was a big plus for me. not sure If ezboil does that. EZ boil can reduce power as u approach boil, which is nice. no doubt both can run a nice brew session.
 
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I would go with the Auber Cube. The Cube has a 30A rated switch/breaker that will positively disconnect the power from the unit in case of an SSR failure. The BrewCommander does not have a way to disconnect full power in case of an SSR failure (other than unplugging the power cord, which has a significant arcing risk.) I cannot recommend the BrewCommander.

Brew on :mug:
 
I would go with the Auber Cube. The Cube has a 30A rated switch/breaker that will positively disconnect the power from the unit in case of an SSR failure. The BrewCommander does not have a way to disconnect full power in case of an SSR failure (other than unplugging the power cord, which has a significant arcing risk.) I cannot recommend the BrewCommander.

Brew on :mug:
I have the Brew Commander @doug293cz and really like it for my single vessel BIAB. It's my first exposure to controllers so I wanted to ask what happens if the SSR fails in the BrewCommander? How would I know?
Does an SSR failure bypass the power switch on the controller?
Not meaning to hijack the thread here!
 
I have the Brew Commander @doug293cz and really like it for my single vessel BIAB. It's my first exposure to controllers so I wanted to ask what happens if the SSR fails in the BrewCommander? How would I know?
Does an SSR failure bypass the power switch on the controller?
Not meaning to hijack the thread here!

If the SSR fails in the "allow current" state, the element will continue to heat even when the screen on the commander is not showing the red "heat" indicator. It will also continue to heat even if you switch the commander off with the front toggle switch. In other words, the screen will be black but your element will still be heating. In most cases it will be obvious. I can hear when my element is running at 100% output because it makes a low rumble noise. What you would do in that situation is to unplug either the element from the back of the commander or the L6-30 supply to the commander.

While controller designs that have positive 2-pole physical disconnects/relays/contactors are an advantage in peace of mind and objectively a better design choice, having to unplug an L6-30 in a rare failure situation is not the end of the world either.
 
If the SSR fails in the "allow current" state, the element will continue to heat even when the screen on the commander is not showing the red "heat" indicator. It will also continue to heat even if you switch the commander off with the front toggle switch. In other words, the screen will be black but your element will still be heating. In most cases it will be obvious. I can hear when my element is running at 100% output because it makes a low rumble noise. What you would do in that situation is to unplug either the element from the back of the commander or the L6-30 supply to the commander.

While controller designs that have positive 2-pole physical disconnects/relays/contactors are an advantage in peace of mind and objectively a better design choice, having to unplug an L6-30 in a rare failure situation is not the end of the world either.
Thanks! My boil coil makes no sound whatsoever when it's heating, so I'm not sure that I'd know anything was wrong with the exception of the temp probe readout! I do have an inline gfci that I could trip instead of unplugging the unit.
Thanks!
 
I am also going back and forth between these two controllers. For quite a while, I was thinking I would build my own controller, but the price and features of these are really attractive. I currently use a digiboil for my boil kettle so I would use this for my HLT. To start, I will just have a 5500w element in the HLT, but I would eventually add a HERMS coil. The Cube has the advantage of being able to operate both pumps and the full disconnect wis SSR failure as mentioned above. In the future, I could either add another cube or possibly add a switch to go between kettles (possible upgrade of boil kettle to 20g from current 9.25g). I also like the Brewcommander for its simplicity and size. Though I understand the Ezboil can be easy enough once you use it a few times.

Any advice from the wisdom in the forum? Is there yet another controller that could work?
 
I am also going back and forth between these two controllers. For quite a while, I was thinking I would build my own controller, but the price and features of these are really attractive. I currently use a digiboil for my boil kettle so I would use this for my HLT. To start, I will just have a 5500w element in the HLT, but I would eventually add a HERMS coil. The Cube has the advantage of being able to operate both pumps and the full disconnect wis SSR failure as mentioned above. In the future, I could either add another cube or possibly add a switch to go between kettles (possible upgrade of boil kettle to 20g from current 9.25g). I also like the Brewcommander for its simplicity and size. Though I understand the Ezboil can be easy enough once you use it a few times.

Any advice from the wisdom in the forum? Is there yet another controller that could work?

That cube sounds like it would work well for your system plans!

I have the BC which works well with my single vessel eBIAB. 10gal Blichmann 240v kettle w/whirlpool, BC, and Riptide pump.
 
Isn't the Brew Commander the unit where you have to estimate ramp times because the timer start isn't tied to reaching the target temp? That would be a show stopper for me.
yes. I'd rather the mash step start on set temp being reached. I don't see much value in the 'ramp time estimate' method, but It does give you a timer counting down to when your mash step will start. takes about 5 seconds to adjust the ramp time estimate if needed. if they offer a program update to change it I'll definitely re-program
 
Have they offered any program updates yet? How would a person even update it? I don't believe there is any SD card or USB.

I am thinking that the cube offers me more options for the price. Upgrading to the Cube 2S can also be an option.
 
Have they offered any program updates yet? How would a person even update it? I don't believe there is any SD card or USB.

I am thinking that the cube offers me more options for the price. Upgrading to the Cube 2S can also be an option.
One I know of. There’s an sd card slot on the inside. You have to take the cover off.
 
Isn't the Brew Commander the unit where you have to estimate ramp times because the timer start isn't tied to reaching the target temp? That would be a show stopper for me.

I've only used that feature a couple times for step mashing a Wit.

Worked fine for me. I believe the ramp default is 2 degrees a minute, so I just adjust that for my batch size. No biggie to me. My smaller batches ramp at 4 degrees/min and larger at 3.

Works for me and I like the simplicity of the unit for my system.
 
Isn't the Brew Commander the unit where you have to estimate ramp times because the timer start isn't tied to reaching the target temp? That would be a show stopper for me.

It's only an issue until you know your approximate ramp time. While various OG targets, and their variable grain amounts, will slightly affect ramp times, it's close enough. It's a number you can come up with during your first batch.
 
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