Are there any temp tolerant yeast strains out there?

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Elysium

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I am wondering if there are any good yeast strain out there for the following beers (barley wine, pale ale, porter) that can handle temperatures between 15-24ºC (59-75F) without creating offlavours?

I wanna brew minibatches and I dont want to invest in temperature control at all if I can find a way to brew really good beer at room temp.
 
How small is a mini-batch? Can't recommend a yeast to use, but you do have a few options. When your ambient temperature is in the low 60's do most of your brewing. If you have a freezer and can freeze 1 liter plastic bottles you can make a cheap fermentation chamber with a cardboard box and some scraps of insulation. Put the ice in the insulated box with your fermenter and you can easily get 10 degrees F below ambient temperature.
 
O5 can go up to 75, according to WYeast's website. I know many complain of funky flavors when you go north of 70 with it, and I try to keep it cooler myself, but I know I just did Dead Ringer with it and it peaked at about 70 and it turned out fine.
 
PacMan!

At the higher temperatures, you probably should put the fermenter in a water bath to prevent the internal temperature from rising too much.
 
Cooper's dry ale yeast is heat tolerant. I have had good luck using this at room temps about 70f for cream ales and pale ales.
 
Aren't all the English ale yeasts good in that range?

I brewed a wheat beer in the high 70's using T-58 and it turned out good, but probably not as neutral as you'd want in the styles you mentioned -- unless it was a Belgian pale ale.
 
The temperature range you gave is pretty much textbook for most dry ale yeasts - so you should be able to ferment all those beers with quite a few different yeasts. Now...do you mean the temperature regularly fluctuates that much? If that's the case, putting the fermenter in a water bath will help moderate the changes, and you can float a couple ice packs/frozen water bottles in that water bath to keep it cooler.

You didn't specify dry vs. liquid yeasts, and given you're in Spain I'm not sure how readily available liquid yeasts would be, so I'd suggest 3 standard dry yeasts - US-05, S-04, and Danstar Nottingham. All 3 will be best in the low 60s. I would in fact NOT suggest that you use S-04 if temps can't be kept below about 65 with pretty good accuracy as it gets funky IMO. US-05 is good for a few degrees higher but I'd try to keep it from going higher than 68 if you can. Nottingham has been good for a wide range of temps in my experience but be aware it will attenuate like crazy from what I've seen. If you can keep temps of 63-65 degrees though I would say any of the 3 would be fine.
 
Two options that don't match your styles but are KILLER dry yeasts from my experience as well are Danstar Belle Saison and Mangrove Jack's M27 Saison. You may not be interested in Belgian/Saison beers but they will both thrive in high temps - in fact I just recently fermented a beer with the M27 and left it go anywhere from 75-80 (maybe even a touch higher) and it tasted AWESOME when racked to secondary.
 
Two options that don't match your styles but are KILLER dry yeasts from my experience as well are Danstar Belle Saison and Mangrove Jack's M27 Saison. You may not be interested in Belgian/Saison beers but they will both thrive in high temps - in fact I just recently fermented a beer with the M27 and left it go anywhere from 75-80 (maybe even a touch higher) and it tasted AWESOME when racked to secondary.[/QUOTE

+1 my two favorite dried yeast strains!
 
I would in fact NOT suggest that you use S-04 if temps can't be kept below about 65 with pretty good accuracy as it gets funky IMO.

I think I'll need to find a place in the house that is relatively cool, but it is a small flat that I'll rent. I am still in Bcn and moving to Sabadell in Oct.

Anyways......I wont use the S-05. I am not into esthers. I'll surely go for the US-05 and wanna test the M44 (top recommended temo on the M44 is 74 F...which is promising) yeast too. I think I'll work with these 2...although I need to check the temp range of the M44. The third yeast you mentioned is unknown to me. I'll look into that too. cheers.
 
Two options that don't match your styles but are KILLER dry yeasts from my experience as well are Danstar Belle Saison and Mangrove Jack's M27 Saison. You may not be interested in Belgian/Saison beers but they will both thrive in high temps - in fact I just recently fermented a beer with the M27 and left it go anywhere from 75-80 (maybe even a touch higher) and it tasted AWESOME when racked to secondary.

I love the dryness and the tar taste of saisons. I will surely give this a go. Maybe do a split batch. Cheers.
Do you have the recipe you used?
 
I second the saison yeasts. Literally any of them are great at room temp or upwards of it. You can just pitch and let them free rise, bumping up farther if possible. YOu can also do this for just about any Belgian strain but it works particularly well with saisons. Youll end up with a great crisp summer beer in like 3 weeks grain to glass itll be drinkable
 
I second the saison yeasts. Literally any of them are great at room temp or upwards of it. You can just pitch and let them free rise, bumping up farther if possible. YOu can also do this for just about any Belgian strain but it works particularly well with saisons. Youll end up with a great crisp summer beer in like 3 weeks grain to glass itll be drinkable

Hey M00ps

3 weeks? 2 weeks in the fermentor and then forcecarbing it? I still bottlecarb. :(
 
You don't like esters, but do like Saison? I'm confused.

What these guys said about putting your fermenter in a water bath is a good idea. Most English strains get excessively fruity >70F. I tend to like them 66-68F. American strains tend to be cleaner at high temps, and I've used 1056/001/US-05 at 70F without issue, although I too prefer that cooler. Generally above 70F I prefer Belgian strains, but again if you don't like esters that may not be what you want. US-05 might be a good start.

As far as pros, you can't go by their fermentation temps. Greater hydrostatic pressure in a cylindroconical fermenter suppresses esters, so to get the same character as a commercial beer, all other things equal a homebrewer has to ferment it a little bit cooler to get the same yeast expression. I wouldn't use Notty at 77F personally. Although I very rarely use Notty to begin with.
 
Hey M00ps

3 weeks? 2 weeks in the fermentor and then forcecarbing it? I still bottlecarb. :(

I bottle carb about half my saisons now and they are definitely drinkable albeit a bit undercarbed 3 weeks out from brew day. They finish fast when the yeast is in the 90s for most of the fermentation.
 
I love the dryness and the tar taste of saisons. I will surely give this a go. Maybe do a split batch. Cheers.
Do you have the recipe you used?

I'll PM it to you here in a bit so as to not clutter the thread with something somewhat off topic...but just as a caveat I'll let you know ahead of time that it was a saison with wheat, rye...and fresh basil. However I've used more or less the same basic recipe with a liquid yeast + brett and no basil and it also worked well.

But yeah, saison/Belgian yeasts love higher temps so temp control isn't really an issue at all - in fact sometimes they prefer temps higher than easily achieved via room temperature.
 
Belle Saison is surprisingly light on esters even if fermented at craaaaaazy high temps. They`re there and impossible to miss but not overwhelming.

The bigger issue is the craaaaazy attentuation. That and incredibly fast fermentation make the yeast a real beast.
 
You don't like esters, but do like Saison? I'm confused.

Well, I dont dig esthers in a light beer that I wanna label as pale ale.
If I ferment it with a Saison strain and wanna drink a saison type of beer (once every now and then when in the mood), then it is a different story.
 
Belle Saison is surprisingly light on esters even if fermented at craaaaaazy high temps. They`re there and impossible to miss but not overwhelming.

The bigger issue is the craaaaazy attentuation. That and incredibly fast fermentation make the yeast a real beast.

How fast is it when from start of fermentation till you can bottle it? 2 weeks? Or even less?
 
How fast is it when from start of fermentation till you can bottle it? 2 weeks? Or even less?

Well it hits FG faster so I assume you can cut a few days off its time to bottling but not THAT much as most fermentation time normally is after hitting FG.
 
You don't bottle beer right when it hits FG you give it a few weeks to condition. Those few weeks to condition generally take up more time than the active fermentation period.

i suppose it depends on the style? if everything you can control is done properly, there's not much data out there proving that it must stay in the primary any longer than after the cleaning-up-phase is finished, which is generally about 2 days after FG is reached. for my normal process for the average beer, we're talking 14-15 days in the primary, and that can include dry-hopping and cold crashing. then there is the bottle conditioning phase, which is another 3 weeks, but it doesn't need to condition in the primary for that amount of time.

for really big beers, or things i'm just wanting to condition longer because of different adjuncts used, sure i'll leave it in the primary for 3-4 weeks, but that's not an every-batch case at all.

oh, and if i don't have enough empty bottles or an empty keg, then i'll let it sit as well.
 
i suppose it depends on the style? if everything you can control is done properly, there's not much data out there proving that it must stay in the primary any longer than after the cleaning-up-phase is finished, which is generally about 2 days after FG is reached. for my normal process for the average beer, we're talking 14-15 days in the primary, and that can include dry-hopping and cold crashing. then there is the bottle conditioning phase, which is another 3 weeks, but it doesn't need to condition in the primary for that amount of time.

for really big beers, or things i'm just wanting to condition longer because of different adjuncts used, sure i'll leave it in the primary for 3-4 weeks, but that's not an every-batch case at all.

oh, and if i don't have enough empty bottles or an empty keg, then i'll let it sit as well.

In any case on average this Danstar Belle Saison hits FG in about three days so if you don't want to give it much time to clean up you can bottle it pretty damn fast. Don't see any special need to rush, but am seeing a lot of people say on the other thread that they generally bottle it after two weeks, which is faster than a lot of beers.

On the other hand this beer can give you STRONGLY alcoholic beers very easily since it eats EVERYTHING so the fast fermentation and the more alcohol needing more conditioning can kind of cancel each other out.
 
Just do a swamp cooler put ur bucket or carboy in an ice chest you dont want to close it fill it half way with cold water rap it in a towel or put a t shirt on it into the water. It will suck water up point a fan at it and let evap keep ot cool it needs a few degress more drop a ice bottle in the water.
 
In any case on average this Danstar Belle Saison hits FG in about three days so if you don't want to give it much time to clean up you can bottle it pretty damn fast. Don't see any special need to rush, but am seeing a lot of people say on the other thread that they generally bottle it after two weeks, which is faster than a lot of beers.

On the other hand this beer can give you STRONGLY alcoholic beers very easily since it eats EVERYTHING so the fast fermentation and the more alcohol needing more conditioning can kind of cancel each other out.

i think you may misunderstand how conditioning works and how the cleaning up phase works. the cleaning up phase is the 24-48 hr period as fermentation is coming to a completion and before the yeast start to consider going dormant, and they will consume some of the by-products that they produced in the first 24-48 hrs of fermentation.

conditioning isn't a result of yeast working. it's simply the flavors in the beer melding together. alcohol doesn't condition out. it's always present. it's just that all of the flavors haven't melded together yet. it's called green beer. green beer can be sent to a secondary for conditioning or it can be packaged for conditioning (or, obviously, if you choose to, you can condition in the primary). a lot of the bigger belgian breweries leave their beer in the primary for about a week. then transfer to secondary and cold condition or lager for another 2-3 weeks. then bring back up to room temps and bottle referment for 2-3 weeks. then ship.

either way, like i said, it's fine if you want to condition your bottles in primary instead of in bottles or kegs or secondaries. i'm not telling you to stop doing that. i'm simply saying that to tell someone that the beer must sit that long in primary in order to condition isn't exactly truthful info. it's just your method, and i'm sure you produce great beers with it. But that doesn't mean that other people aren't using other methods and still making great beer.
 
i think you may misunderstand how conditioning works and how the cleaning up phase works. the cleaning up phase is the 24-48 hr period as fermentation is coming to a completion and before the yeast start to consider going dormant, and they will consume some of the by-products that they produced in the first 24-48 hrs of fermentation.

conditioning isn't a result of yeast working. it's simply the flavors in the beer melding together. alcohol doesn't condition out. it's always present. it's just that all of the flavors haven't melded together yet. it's called green beer. green beer can be sent to a secondary for conditioning or it can be packaged for conditioning (or, obviously, if you choose to, you can condition in the primary). a lot of the bigger belgian breweries leave their beer in the primary for about a week. then transfer to secondary and cold condition or lager for another 2-3 weeks. then bring back up to room temps and bottle referment for 2-3 weeks. then ship.

either way, like i said, it's fine if you want to condition your bottles in primary instead of in bottles or kegs or secondaries. i'm not telling you to stop doing that. i'm simply saying that to tell someone that the beer must sit that long in primary in order to condition isn't exactly truthful info. it's just your method, and i'm sure you produce great beers with it. But that doesn't mean that other people aren't using other methods and still making great beer.

This.

There are cleanup functions that require contact with the yeast cake, such as reduction of acetaldehyde and diacetyl produced normally during fermentation as part of the compounds that eventually become ethanol. Once the sugars are fully consumed, the yeast then go and break down/reabsorb the compounds. But this happens rapidly after fermentation, usually 24-48 hours after FG is reached as said above. Now, if you dramatically underpitch, underoxygenate, and do not properly control your fermentation temp, then more intermediaries could be present, and more time may be needed to clean them up. This "leave everything in the fermenter for three to four weeks" is something that may be a good idea for new brewers, but it is not strictly necessary when your fermentation is on point (now, some beers will take longer to ferment, lagers take long, and some yeasts like Wyeast 3724 can be notoriously slow, and my Belgians in general seem to take the longest to reach FG, which if I understand my yeast biology is to be expected). I have beers that hit FG in 2-4 days (English session ales), and are fully conditioned by day 4-5, and if I were to keg and force carb, could go fully grain to glass in less than a week. I don't keg, but I've racked to a cask at 7 days, primed 5, and gone grain to glass in 12 days before. It's usually easiest for me to deal with things on weekends, I usually package at about 2 weeks. If I have time earlier, sometimes I'll do it earlier. If I don't have time, I'll let it sit longer. I've gone upwards to 5 weeks of primary with no ill effects assuming that the temp stays cool (hold at fermentation temp, raise 2-3 degrees after FG to facilitate reduction of acetaldehyde and diacetyl, and then cool down to cellar temp is what I try and do, if not fully cold crash/lager). I've left beers in primary for ~5 weeks in the upper 70s and unstable, and gotten minor off-flavors as a result (not autolysis, more soapy, probably from lipids/fatty acids in trub or something).

Point is, mellowing of alcohol need not happen in primary. That can happen in the bottle, or keg, or if you so desire, a secondary.
 
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