Any Sabco Brew Magic Users Out There?

[Catt22]

Catt, great feedback, thanks. I'll take that into account.

One question, whats the problem with using hot water out of the tap? I did treat it with gypsum and calcium chloride, via Palmers updated water profile calculator and BeerSmith. I'll have to look that one up.

And on my sparge, yeah I screwed that one up. I'm sure I'll dial that in on the next batch. My big concern is just hitting my efficiency consistently. If that happens to be 85+, I'll be all the happier.

I really don't remember what the downside was to using hot tap water. Just something I read on one of the forums long ago. It may not be true. Perhaps one of the water experts will help us out with that question. I have no choice as I run my brewing water through a carbon filter and you are not supposed to do that with hot water.

I agree that consistency is important, but to achieve that you have to at least somewhat standardize your basic brewing methods. That's one of the reasons that my efficiencies were all over the place. I didn't have a very consistent brewing pattern. My procedures have sort of evolved over time. Lots of time actually. Now I'm settled in around 85% most of the time and that's right where I want to be.

 

[jamcclureuk]

Here's my critique:


2. Heat your strike water in the MT. No need to transfer it from the HLT. Just fill the MT directly from the git go. This eliminates the need to compensate for the kettle thermal mass.
.

Hi there, I am a relatively new brew magic owner to. I have an extremely hard time maintaining a steady mash temp with my $ridiculously expensive yet still flawed system. It is driving me nuts.

Quick question, when you say heat strike water directly in MT, do you heat all of it, or just some of it.

I think that one of the biggest improvements that sabco could make to this system is to put the digital temperature probe in the middle of the mash tun. Why they put it in the out which is next to the siphon is beyond me.

 

[Catt22]

Hi there, I am a relatively new brew magic owner to. I have an extremely hard time maintaining a steady mash temp with my $ridiculously expensive yet still flawed system. It is driving me nuts.

Quick question, when you say heat strike water directly in MT, do you heat all of it, or just some of it.

I think that one of the biggest improvements that sabco could make to this system is to put the digital temperature probe in the middle of the mash tun. Why they put it in the out which is next to the siphon is beyond me.

Yes, heat all of the strike water in the MT before adding the grain.

IMO it's best to use a separate thermometer probe deep in the grain bed to monitor the actual grain bed temperature. You still want the controller probe at the MT outlet for somewhere along the circuit of the circulating wort as this provides a quick response for the burner control. The lag would be too great if the probe were in the grain bed. That's the way I have my system set up (RIMS, but not a Sabco).

 

[luke2080]

Yeah with it recirculating during the mash rests, along the outlet should be fine.

I haven' had a chance to brew again with the holidays and golf, but should in the next week. I plan to heat the strike water in the MT, while I'm heating up my sparge water, plus extra, in the HLT. I think I was running into some problems last time with the burner from the HLT heating up the pipe from the MT. I'll just kick them both on when there are no grains to mess with, get the HLT up to 180 or 190 ish, and just watch it so it doesn't dip below 160 or so during the full mash process (it should maintain well, with a cover and 80+ degree outdoor temp).

 

[Starderup]

It came as a big surprise that this system is not turnkey and foolproof. For six thousand bucks, I'd expect more. I have only seen one BM system at Red Brick brewery. I think they use it to try out small batches of new recipes.
I appreciate the tips and pointers on the thermometers/probes. We are building an automated 55 gallon system, and can use all the guidance we can get.

 

[luke2080]

It came as a big surprise that this system is not turnkey and foolproof. For six thousand bucks, I'd expect more. I have only seen one BM system at Red Brick brewery. I think they use it to try out small batches of new recipes.
I appreciate the tips and pointers on the thermometers/probes. We are building an automated 55 gallon system, and can use all the guidance we can get.

To be honest, it is fairly turnkey and foolproof. I had it put together in an hour after it was shipped. The big, big, value for people that buy it, is we want a professional system but are too lazy/dumb/non-handy to weld a good stand, and have welded inlets, outlets, etc. I liked my old system, but the weldless joints would have slow leaks, a pain to clean, etc. I could have probably built something if I spent $2-3k and some time. But that time would have equaled about 8 months. I can't spend 8 months learning to weld, nor do I have a space to do so.

As for the operation, I've brewed now without going through the full manual/CD that comes with it. But yes, many people on this site have built much better systems. Fully automated, electric - just load water, grain, push a button and go sit down until the boil is done. I would love to have bought one of those systems, if they existed at this scale. I'm very jealous of the people that have built systems like that, but I also realize some of those people (or all) are varying degrees of mechanical and electrical engineers. I saw one guys build and I'm pretty sure he said he was a rocket scientist.

I work with a couple of rocket scientists, and lots of mechanical engineers. They could build one of these in their sleep. Unfortunately my boss would be pissed if I pulled them away from slaving at work 80 hours a week to help me brew beer. And none of them live near me.

So for me, after 1 attempt, my temperature control was about 200% better, I had the best efficiency I've ever had (I don't care about that, I want to dial in the consistency) and brewed my largest batch. And allowed me to do a 4 step mash. The system has flaws...but I'm able to justify it as a purchase. I split it with a buddy. He splits the costs with me but I definitely drink way more of the finished product :rockin:

 

[Vance71975]

Hi,

Are there any active brewmagic users out there? Our club has recently acquired a system and we're have some difficulty with various aspects of the fixture. I posted one question to the sabco forum that went unanswered. A second post never got past the moderator. Seems that forum is relatively inactive or closed to new users.

Thanks

I only WISH i was a sabco user, someday, someday i shall have one!

 

[Starderup]

None of my buddies are rocket scientists, but together we have gotten about 80% of the way done with our system. It is going to be fully automated with solenoid valves, temperature control, alarms, loading and saving recipes with a web based interface - everything you could ask for in a 55 gallon system. All for just a little over a thousand bucks.

 

[luke2080]

None of my buddies are rocket scientists, but together we have gotten about 80% of the way done with our system. It is going to be fully automated with solenoid valves, temperature control, alarms, loading and saving recipes with a web based interface - everything you could ask for in a 55 gallon system. All for just a little over a thousand bucks.

Well you and your buddies have far more experience, space, and time on your hands then I do. And how in the world are you doing this for $1k? I'm guessing you got stainless sheets and are building your own kettles as well?

 

[Starderup]

2 barrels - $320, False bottom, $145, Fittings and tubing, $300, 2 March pumps, $300, Frame, $75 (+ some beer), Automation, $200.
Total is $1,320. Ok, so a little over a thousand.

 

[jamcclureuk]

2 barrels - $320, False bottom, $145, Fittings and tubing, $300, 2 March pumps, $300, Frame, $75 (+ some beer), Automation, $200.
Total is $1,320. Ok, so a little over a thousand.

I don't doubt that you think you'll get it done for $1320..... but in just about every project that I've ever done, it turns out more than I anticipate.

You're talking full automation, for $1320. I wish you all the best!

 

[Starderup]

There is one other thing I did forget. The solenoid valves. Still, it is not going to be much more, because then we can sell the ball valves and recover a little of the initial cost. I could get a copy of the receipts if you don't believe it. We have most of the stuff already in hand.

 

[luke2080]

You said 55 gallon system, right? $160 per barrel? What are these made of, wood?

Again, no real option for me as I don't know what a solenoid is, nor how to make "automation". But like I said, I'd do the same as you if I had the know how, and I'm guessing some good access to used/cheap materials. You should setup a build thread on it..... and make and sell these if you can do it this cheaply.

 

[Starderup]

314 Stainless Steel, my friend. Found them on eBay. They are 16 or 18 gauge, and weigh 62 pounds.
The thought has crossed my mind about making another system once this has finished, and seeing if I could sell it. However, the market for 55 gallon systems is probably limited.

 

[checker]

314 Stainless Steel, my friend. Found them on eBay. They are 16 or 18 gauge, and weigh 62 pounds.
The thought has crossed my mind about making another system once this has finished, and seeing if I could sell it. However, the market for 55 gallon systems is probably limited.

I'd be interested in more detail about your system. Our club has aspirations of doing something more then homebrew. I did the numbers and if my info is correct, we'd need to brew two 10 gallon batches a day, 5 days a week, 50 weeks a year to meet the minimum production level required by arizona to maintain a brewery license. That's a little intense on a brew magic. 50 gallon batches would make things more reasonable. I prefer the make option tho' as it's been a plan of mine. I've a good I/O board, labview and engineering knowledge and our club has access to a fab shop.

 

[kladue]

I am interested in your goals for automation having built and programmed an automated 10 gallon system with unique features.

 

[Starderup]

I am interested in your goals for automation having built and programmed an automated 10 gallon system with unique features.

We want pretty much everything automation can offer.
Load/save recipes via secure http
Temperature control with probes
Pilotless ignition
Solenoid valves
Event logging

Basically, we want to be able to fill the HLT, have the system bring it up to temperature, and then start transferring to the MLT and send out an audible notification. We then add the grain, mash in, and refill the HLT with sparge water, and initiate heating that up. The system should maintain our preset mash temp(s), stepping up at specified intervals if required. The HLT should stay at our sparge temp until we are ready to draw the first runnings. Then, using probes that measure the volume of liquid in the MLT, fly sparge.

Our goal is to be able to reliably reproduce any recipe with minimal intervention.

Phase I of our system will be largely manual, but once we add the Brewtroller, valves, and probes, we pretty much want to be able to drink beer and have the system beep at us whenever it needs anything.

 

[pickles]

We want pretty much everything automation can offer.
Load/save recipes via secure http
Temperature control with probes
Pilotless ignition
Solenoid valves
Event logging

Basically, we want to be able to fill the HLT, have the system bring it up to temperature, and then start transferring to the MLT and send out an audible notification. We then add the grain, mash in, and refill the HLT with sparge water, and initiate heating that up. The system should maintain our preset mash temp(s), stepping up at specified intervals if required. The HLT should stay at our sparge temp until we are ready to draw the first runnings. Then, using probes that measure the volume of liquid in the MLT, fly sparge.

Our goal is to be able to reliably reproduce any recipe with minimal intervention.

Phase I of our system will be largely manual, but once we add the Brewtroller, valves, and probes, we pretty much want to be able to drink beer and have the system beep at us whenever it needs anything.

I have a Brewtroller based system, have built almost every piece from scratch but no automation for fluid transfer. I think you'll be hard pressed to do itfor under $2000+. Solenoids that have been proven to work well by Brewtroller users are $50 each.

 

[luke2080]

What the hell is a solenoid? I will not google such an odd term.

Either way, this thread has gone too far

I'd like to follow your automation discussion, but you may want to start a new thread. Leave this thread for those of us discussing ops practices with the Brew Magic, and not super automated awesome machines that Willy Wonka invented that I cannot build or comprehend.

Also - I think tonight is drunk night at the bar. Time for some Monk's Blood in a can. :rockin:

 

[Starderup]

Sorry for the hijack, Luke.

 

[kladue]

Here is the last shot of the control application graphics https://picasaweb.google.com/kevin.ladue/OneTouchProgramGraphics#. The only feature the software does not have at this time is web connectivity. The automatic malt system is not built yet because of lack of time home to work on it as I am currently working in Chandler Arizona and the system is in Turner Oregon.
This system will let you develop a recipe from the various ingredient screens and develop the process control set points automatically. Automatic start to dough in time is roughly 6 - 10 minutes from cold start depending on batch size, step temperatures are by wort heating with steam injection.
The Brewtroller is a good platform to start with as long as you can live with the binary process control available.

 

[luke2080]

Sorry for the hijack, Luke.

No problem. Just figured I'd keep one thread going for Brew Magic users since their own forum is a joke (not accepting new entrants)

 

[jamcclureuk]

No problem. Just figured I'd keep one thread going for Brew Magic users since their own forum is a joke (not accepting new entrants)

I was able to sign up for the Brew-Magic forum quite easily in January....

 

[luke2080]

That was January. I tried to sign up a month ago, never got my acceptance. Haven't really been to persistent as I found other information in other threads here and through the Interwebs though. Maybe I'll call them and kick them in the pants.

 

[jamcclureuk]

Well, I figured out why my brew magic isn't maintaining mash temp with the rims system.... The damn rims system isn't heating up. I have reported it to sabco. My brew magic is only 7 months old. Good thing there is a warranty.


EDIT:

I had no idea that the RIMS heat was only on when it says "Self Regulating". If your temp is more than 3 degrees below target temp and it says "Use Burner"...the Electric Heat isn't on. You can not use the electirc heat to raise the temp of your mash more than 3 degrees from current temp. Period.

 

[sanibel14]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Starderup
314 Stainless Steel, my friend. Found them on eBay. They are 16 or 18 gauge, and weigh 62 pounds.
The thought has crossed my mind about making another system once this has finished, and seeing if I could sell it. However, the market for 55 gallon systems is probably limited.
I'd be interested in more detail about your system. Our club has aspirations of doing something more then homebrew. I did the numbers and if my info is correct, we'd need to brew two 10 gallon batches a day, 5 days a week, 50 weeks a year to meet the minimum production level required by arizona to maintain a brewery license. That's a little intense on a brew magic. 50 gallon batches would make things more reasonable. I prefer the make option tho' as it's been a plan of mine. I've a good I/O board, labview and engineering knowledge and our club has access to a fab shop.

Sabco is working with Dogfish Head on a new 1 barrel system. Hang in there. The 1st few batches are a learning curve especially if you've never used a RIMS system before.

 

[tonloco]

How did you hear about a 1 barrel system? And is there a timeline for a release?

 

[freshhoarse]

+1

 

[sanibel14]

Sabco posted it a couple of months ago on their facebook page. Said they were working on a 1 barrel home brewery directly with dogfish head and it would be another RIMS system with a similar but updated control.

 

[jamcclureuk]

Here is their post:

"We got all the Brew-Magic changes implemented in 2010. Now we're working on a much larger system, targeted toward brewpubs who need a higher capacity.
January 20 at 12:17pm · Like"

 

[Bruwsomtin]

This is my version and I love it...90% efficency every time.

 

[bronzdragon]

Thanks for starting a thread. I've never had luck with the BrewMagic board. I was able to sign up a couple years ago, but it seems noone posts there on a regular basis.

Anyway, the BM has been on my radar for a few years and will finally come to fruition this year with the aid of a new house with a large garage to keep it in!

~rc~

 

[Pono503]

Just signed up so I'll apologize now if I am not following posting rules or if this has been asked already in a different thread.

I have seen where people are talking about the whirlpooling in the (HLT) sparge kettle, but does anyone whirlpool their beer before sending off to the fermenter in order to get any trud or unwanted sediment out? In talking to SABCO, they told me that there's no need with their Brew-Magic system which I highly doubt and disagree. Has anyone done this and do you care to share your method?

Thanks.

 

[GilaMinumBeer]

Just signed up so I'll apologize now if I am not following posting rules or if this has been asked already in a different thread.

I have seen where people are talking about the whirlpooling in the (HLT) sparge kettle, but does anyone whirlpool their beer before sending off to the fermenter in order to get any trud or unwanted sediment out? In talking to SABCO, they told me that there's no need with their Brew-Magic system which I highly doubt and disagree. Has anyone done this and do you care to share your method?

Thanks.

I utilize a hop grant with rice hulls to act as a Hot break and pellet filter. And I recirculate to get the boiler temp down enough for a one pass pitch temp to fermeter. I don't want any of that getting into my chiller. i know I lose some cold break this way as well but, my beers are clear.

 

[BluishHue]

Great thread all...it's nice to find some fellow Brew Magic users now that their forum is shut down. I've been having efficiency issues, and now have several things to try this weekend thanks to this post.

 

[photogscott]

So how does the Brew Magic "magically" prevent loads of hops & trub from entering my plate chiller? No whirlpool?

 

[Pono503]

I bought a trub filter from brewershardware.com and it works great. It goes between the chiller and the bk. I couldn't find any other solutions but am happy as hell with what I found.

 

[luke2080]

Great thread all...it's nice to find some fellow Brew Magic users now that their forum is shut down. I've been having efficiency issues, and now have several things to try this weekend thanks to this post.

They have a facebook group. Just need to email them for access. It sucks because its a facebook group and not a more searchable forum setup. But people are active there if you have a question.

 

[BluishHue]

They have a facebook group. Just need to email them for access. It sucks because its a facebook group and not a more searchable forum setup. But people are active there if you have a question.

Cool, thanks for the heads up. I will check it out.

 

[A4C]

Read through most of the thread and needing some advice. I am new BM user, the manual says 150% of recipe volume. Can I just calculate as I would for normal AG brewing? 1.25 qt/lb for mash and 1.5 qt/lb for sparge and run my recipe normally that way?