Silver_Is_Money
Larry Sayre, Developer of 'Mash Made Easy'
I'm considering one for controlling a 15 gallon BIAB single kettle system with a 5500 Watt heat element.
I do love the EZboil series. If you think you may use the time/schedule feature of the 320, get that. If you don't ever plan to use that exact feature, the DSPR120 is a moderately more simplified interface. To be clear, the schedule would be for delayed start up or unattended step mashing.
The DSPR's will not work with DS18B20 temp sensors. You can always use those as auxiliary temp monitors with a compatible display device.
Brew on
Yes. PT-100 RTD's are what EZBoils require.Wow, thanks for the schematic @doug293cz!!! Is the PT-100 the type of temperature sensor I should be looking for?
Hot pods are what I use. Great product!Is the "Hot Pod" a decent means whereby to attach the heating element to the kettle and secure it from liquid intrusion, or is there a better means?
Hot Pod:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl3.htm
Pretty much everything in my designs can be purchased from Auber, and lots of other places as well. If I provide part numbers they are usually Auber's.@doug293cz, could you provide specifics for the two contactors. Are they also Auber products? Is everything found within your schematic sourced from Auber? What are XLR connectors?
I recommend the Tri-Clamp mounted heating elements that have integrated L6-30 plugs on them. Let's you disconnect the cable from the kettle easily, and also pull the element out of the kettle. They can be ordered from BrewHardware or directly from China. Make sure to get one that is all SS construction.Is the "Hot Pod" a decent means whereby to attach the heating element to the kettle and secure it from liquid intrusion, or is there a better means?
Hot Pod:
https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/hotpod-ewl3.htm
I recommend the Tri-Clamp mounted heating elements that have integrated L6-30 plugs on them. Let's you disconnect the cable from the kettle easily, and also pull the element out of the kettle. They can be ordered from BrewHardware or directly from China. Make sure to get one that is all SS construction.
Brew on
You need some kind of a kettle passthru no matter what type of element mount you use.I went with the 1.5" tri-clamp style as well. I like the easy to install and remove the heater and that you can unplug heater cable so you are not dragging the cable around with the pot.
The only "down side" is installing the tri-clamp ferral. Depends on how you go, welded, solder or weldless, etc might influence the direction you go.
Gonna need a bigger hole to put the element thru.The 15 gallon kettle I'm looking at has 2 x 1/2" holes drilled into it. No welded fitments, just holes.
Gonna need a bigger hole to put the element thru.
Brew on
Hole size will depend on whether you decide to go with weldless feed thru port, welded, or soldered. Need to follow the recommendations for the port fitting you choose. Buy the fitting before drilling.10-4 @doug293cz ! Of the two extant openings, one is for a valve, and I perceive the other (the one above it) to be for the temperature probe. That leaves a need to cut a hole for the heating element. 1-1/4" for that one?
I also use a 60 Amp spa panel to fuse my control panel (GFCI).10-4 @doug293cz ! Of the two extant openings, one is for a valve, and I perceive the other (the one above it) to be for the temperature probe. That leaves a need to cut a hole for the heating element. What hole size is needed for a Camco 2965 type 5,500 Watt element?
I also use a 60 Amp spa panel to fuse my control panel (GFCI).
The Auber eZboil is a great controller. I used two in my control panel. I didn't see a heatsink for the SSR in the schematic.View attachment 721548
That's because it is an electrical schematic, not a wiring/construction pictograph. It is also not a bill of materials.... I didn't see a heatsink for the SSR in the schematic.
I don't know what I was thinking, I didn't show one either.That's because it is an electrical schematic, not a wiring/construction pictograph. It is also not a bill of materials.
Brew on
Yes. The top of the box has a removable plate. The heatsink bolts to the top and the SSRs screw to it from the bottom. I used some heatsink grease to help transfer the heat. The heatsink gets warm but never hot. It is large and does a great job. I got so lucky on the cost. I was in Tanner electronics and saw it setting at the back of a shelf all dusty. The price tag said $16, woohoo! Its $100 to $120 on line. I had to drill and tap a few holes for mounting but no big deal.Is it the 40A SSR(s) that sit(s) directly below the heat sink in the top of the project box?
Also, I wish I would have purchased a bigger control box, it was hell getting everything installed and dressing the wiring. I'm not completely happy with the dressing but it's not bad. I do have strain relief for any wires that move with the door.
11.5" * 11.5" * 8.25" using the space in the door as well.View attachment 721622What are the nominal dimensions of your control box?
Thank youMy hat is off to you for your excellent craftsmanship!
The only knock I have on my EZBOIL DSPR120 is that every 8 to 10 brews or so the temps go all squirrely. I have to loosen then retighten the screws that hold the temp probe wires then its fixed. I've got 2 new controllers with EZBOIL DSPR120 that I have not used other than for test purposes as of now. I can't say if this is a problem with all EZBOIL or just a problem with one of the ones I have. I use ( Easy Timer with Dual Settings (JSL-71A) ) on my controllers for my timer where I set it the night before and wake up in the morning with strike water ready to go.
I have not had this problem either and my box has been in operation for about 3.5 years.I've had the DSPR120 in operation for about 4 years and my table top control box gets knocked around quite a bit. I've never had probe connection issues.
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