Any opinions on the EZ Boil DSPR320?

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I'm considering one for controlling a 15 gallon BIAB single kettle system with a 5500 Watt heat element.
 

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I do love the EZboil series. If you think you may use the time/schedule feature of the 320, get that. If you don't ever plan to use that exact feature, the DSPR120 is a moderately more simplified interface. To be clear, the schedule would be for delayed start up or unattended step mashing.
 
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I do love the EZboil series. If you think you may use the time/schedule feature of the 320, get that. If you don't ever plan to use that exact feature, the DSPR120 is a moderately more simplified interface. To be clear, the schedule would be for delayed start up or unattended step mashing.
Thanks! Aside from the kettle with 1/2" discharge valve opening and 1/2" temperature probe opening, the EZ Boil, the heat element, the bag, a false bottom, and a pump, what other things should consider rounding up with which to put this project into full motion? Should I consider a thermal well, or is there a means for direct temperature probe immersion? I'm initially considering a DS18B20 type temperature probe. Something like this one: Amazon.com
 
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The DSPR's will not work with DS18B20 temp sensors. You can always use those as auxiliary temp monitors with a compatible display device.

Here's the schematic for the BIAB controller I will build for myself, which uses an EZBoil controller. I will probably go with the 320.

DSPR300 1-Pump 1-Element 240V rev-2.PNG


Brew on :mug:
 
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The DSPR's will not work with DS18B20 temp sensors. You can always use those as auxiliary temp monitors with a compatible display device.

Brew on :mug:
Wow, thanks for the schematic @doug293cz!!! Is the PT-100 the type of temperature sensor I should be looking for?
 
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@doug293cz, could you provide specifics for the two contactors. Are they also Auber products? Is everything found within your schematic sourced from Auber? What are XLR connectors?
 
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Is the "Hot Pod" a decent means whereby to attach the heating element to the kettle and secure it from liquid intrusion, or is there a better means?

Hot Pod:
 

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XLR connectors (old timers call them Cannon connectors) are the type of 3 pin connector virtually every professional microphone uses. Also commonly used for balanced line level audio.

I strongly recommend Neutrik brand XLR connectors. (do not try to save a couple bucks and get something cheaper) They are robust and strain relief on cable mount connector is well designed. Depending on the diameter the cable your temp probe is, you might need to increase the diameter of the cable to get the strain relief something clamp on to it.

ETA when using an XLR best practice is use Pin #1 for the sheild
 

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Is the "Hot Pod" a decent means whereby to attach the heating element to the kettle and secure it from liquid intrusion, or is there a better means?

Hot Pod:
Hot pods are what I use. Great product!

+1 on the EZBoil. I use the 120s and love them. Wish I bought one of the 300s to use the delay start function but am using a smart outlet wall timer instead.
 

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@doug293cz, could you provide specifics for the two contactors. Are they also Auber products? Is everything found within your schematic sourced from Auber? What are XLR connectors?
Pretty much everything in my designs can be purchased from Auber, and lots of other places as well. If I provide part numbers they are usually Auber's.

The contactors have to be double pole with minimum contact ratings of 30A, and 120V coils. Auber has several options:
CN-PBC302-120V (this is a generic PN that you can search on Amazon, eBay, etc.)​

XLR connectors are commonly used on microphone cables. They usually have 3 or 4 pins, which is convenient for PT-100 RTD's which also usually have 3 wires.

1615142153248.png

Brew on :mug:
 

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Is the "Hot Pod" a decent means whereby to attach the heating element to the kettle and secure it from liquid intrusion, or is there a better means?

Hot Pod:
I recommend the Tri-Clamp mounted heating elements that have integrated L6-30 plugs on them. Let's you disconnect the cable from the kettle easily, and also pull the element out of the kettle. They can be ordered from BrewHardware or directly from China. Make sure to get one that is all SS construction.

1615142479580.png

Brew on :mug:
 

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I recommend the Tri-Clamp mounted heating elements that have integrated L6-30 plugs on them. Let's you disconnect the cable from the kettle easily, and also pull the element out of the kettle. They can be ordered from BrewHardware or directly from China. Make sure to get one that is all SS construction.


Brew on :mug:
I went with the 1.5" tri-clamp style as well. I like the easy to install and remove the heater and that you can unplug heater cable so you are not dragging the cable around with the pot.

The only "down side" is installing the tri-clamp ferral. Depends on how you go, welded, solder or weldless, etc might influence the direction you go.
 

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I went with the 1.5" tri-clamp style as well. I like the easy to install and remove the heater and that you can unplug heater cable so you are not dragging the cable around with the pot.

The only "down side" is installing the tri-clamp ferral. Depends on how you go, welded, solder or weldless, etc might influence the direction you go.
You need some kind of a kettle passthru no matter what type of element mount you use.

Brew on :mug:
 
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The 15 gallon kettle I'm looking at has 2 x 1/2" holes drilled into it. No welded fitments, just holes.
 

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The only knock I have on my EZBOIL DSPR120 is that every 8 to 10 brews or so the temps go all squirrely. I have to loosen then retighten the screws that hold the temp probe wires then its fixed. I've got 2 new controllers with EZBOIL DSPR120 that I have not used other than for test purposes as of now. I can't say if this is a problem with all EZBOIL or just a problem with one of the ones I have. I use ( Easy Timer with Dual Settings (JSL-71A) ) on my controllers for my timer where I set it the night before and wake up in the morning with strike water ready to go.
 
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Gonna need a bigger hole to put the element thru.

Brew on :mug:
10-4 @doug293cz ! Of the two extant openings, one is for a valve, and I perceive the other (the one above it) to be for the temperature probe. That leaves a need to cut a hole for the heating element. What hole size is needed for a Camco 2965 type 5,500 Watt element?
 

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10-4 @doug293cz ! Of the two extant openings, one is for a valve, and I perceive the other (the one above it) to be for the temperature probe. That leaves a need to cut a hole for the heating element. 1-1/4" for that one?
Hole size will depend on whether you decide to go with weldless feed thru port, welded, or soldered. Need to follow the recommendations for the port fitting you choose. Buy the fitting before drilling.

Brew on :mug:
 

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10-4 @doug293cz ! Of the two extant openings, one is for a valve, and I perceive the other (the one above it) to be for the temperature probe. That leaves a need to cut a hole for the heating element. What hole size is needed for a Camco 2965 type 5,500 Watt element?
I also use a 60 Amp spa panel to fuse my control panel (GFCI).
 
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I also use a 60 Amp spa panel to fuse my control panel (GFCI).
What is the fuse rating for your GFCI? My initial presumption would be 30A. Edit, I see where you have 2 heating elements.
 
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Is it the 40A SSR(s) that sit(s) directly below the heat sink in the top of the project box?
 

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Is it the 40A SSR(s) that sit(s) directly below the heat sink in the top of the project box?
Yes. The top of the box has a removable plate. The heatsink bolts to the top and the SSRs screw to it from the bottom. I used some heatsink grease to help transfer the heat. The heatsink gets warm but never hot. It is large and does a great job. I got so lucky on the cost. I was in Tanner electronics and saw it setting at the back of a shelf all dusty. The price tag said $16, woohoo! Its $100 to $120 on line. I had to drill and tap a few holes for mounting but no big deal.
 

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Also, I wish I would have purchased a bigger control box, it was hell getting everything installed and dressing the wiring. I'm not completely happy with the dressing but it's not bad. I do have strain relief for any wires that move with the door.
 
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Also, I wish I would have purchased a bigger control box, it was hell getting everything installed and dressing the wiring. I'm not completely happy with the dressing but it's not bad. I do have strain relief for any wires that move with the door.
What are the nominal dimensions of your control box?
 

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The only knock I have on my EZBOIL DSPR120 is that every 8 to 10 brews or so the temps go all squirrely. I have to loosen then retighten the screws that hold the temp probe wires then its fixed. I've got 2 new controllers with EZBOIL DSPR120 that I have not used other than for test purposes as of now. I can't say if this is a problem with all EZBOIL or just a problem with one of the ones I have. I use ( Easy Timer with Dual Settings (JSL-71A) ) on my controllers for my timer where I set it the night before and wake up in the morning with strike water ready to go.
I've had the DSPR120 in operation for about 4 years and my table top control box gets knocked around quite a bit. I've never had probe connection issues.
 

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I've had the DSPR120 in operation for about 4 years and my table top control box gets knocked around quite a bit. I've never had probe connection issues.
I have not had this problem either and my box has been in operation for about 3.5 years.
 
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