Yes. The top of the box has a removable plate. The heatsink bolts to the top and the SSRs screw to it from the bottom. I used some heatsink grease to help transfer the heat. The heatsink gets warm but never hot. It is large and does a great job. I got so lucky on the cost. I was in Tanner electronics and saw it setting at the back of a shelf all dusty. The price tag said $16, woohoo! Its $100 to $120 on line. I had to drill and tap a few holes for mounting but no big deal.
Thank youMy hat is off to you for your excellent craftsmanship!
I have not had this problem either and my box has been in operation for about 3.5 years.
Dude that is the largest counter flow chiller I've ever seen. Nice looking system.
Brilliant!
Not for me. There is an indicator on the EZ Boil for burner firing, but not an after-the-SSR indicator. I actually communicated with Kane at Auber and he suggested putting in a burner power interruption switch after the SSR to me. I will in the near future. It'll make swapping my power cord from the HLT to BK a little easier.
In my opinion the missing capabilities are important. But, not everyone has the same criteria for what they want in a controller.
The light on the EZBoil only tells you what the EZBoil thinks it is telling the SSR to do. If the SSR has failed in the "on" mode (most common failure mode) the EZBoil firing light won't give you any indication of that. The "element firing light" in parallel with the element lets you see what the SSR is actually doing. Very handy for failure detection and diagnosis.
Yes this would work but like others have said you might want to modify it. How ever if you are not very DIY electric savvy then there will be extra expense for buying the cord and ends to plug it in and having to pay some one to put it together and install a GFCI 220 spa panel/ or breaker and outlet. Seems a little pricey and I believe it is worth learning how your controller works by building one yourself. Lots of diagrams out on the internet to get you started ( Short Circuited Brewers on Youtube has a couple basic ones if I remember correctly) and If in doubt put your idea on paper and get in contact with Auber assuming you buy the parts from them, they will revise your schematics if yours are incorrect so your setup will work properly. They have done this for me on my setup when I was trying to make sure I had the timer set up correctly. Controllers will break eventually like your solid state relay will swell up and stop working properly or a fuse could go out or controller just malfunctions like one of my DSPR120's. If you have a working knowledge you can repair and move on with your brew day if you have spare parts. There is a secondary reason I use 2 separate controllers because if one goes down I can get through my brew day using just 1 controller. I've never been a fan of pump switches in a controller anyway which forces you to have a neural wire instead of just 2 hots and a ground. I have my pumps plugged into a separate 110 volt GFCI outlet and I control the pumps with a wireless remote control that works great. There are many situations through out a brew day where it is not convenient to reach for my controller to turn pumps on or off. I have less money in my commercial 50 amp controllers ( not that you need a 16"x16"x8" box for homebrewing)than this little box your looking at and they were very simple to build or repair. EZBOIL, Timer, Contactor, 2 SSR's( I use 40 Amp), couple of fuses, a float sensor input, temp input, power in, 2 power out, a master switch to turn on the contactor, and light to show power out after SSR's.
Failures seem to be most common in the really cheap SSR's like the Foteks (many of which are counterfeit.) People have documentied the cheap generics being built with underrated components, e.g. a 10A TRIAC in a "25A Rated" SSR.
Failures seem to be most common in the really cheap SSR's like the Foteks (many of which are counterfeit.) People have documentied the cheap generics being built with underrated components, e.g. a 10A TRIAC in a "25A Rated" SSR.
Failures can be either permanent, or soft (intermittent.) Soft fails (or "latching") usually occurs when the SSR overheats and the internal TRIAC will no longer turn off. So the SSR latches in the "on" state. The SSR will then un-latch when it is allowed to cool down. Overheating and latching problems are most often due to inadequate heat sinking for the SSR.
Brew on
I have not heard reports of Auber SSR's failing. Mager SSR's (shop on eBay) are an inexpensive brand that has a good reputation.
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