Does this clean off pretty easy, like just wipe it off with a sponge or do you have to scrub at it. I get a big black spot of burnt sugars that takes an overnight pbw soak and an 1hr + of scrubbing.
Just so you know, I was told by Anvil that my order was delayed 3 weeks because of the Swirly arm attachment that I ordered. They were waiting for more Swirly arms to be manufactured. If I had just ordered the 10.5 foundry and the recirculation kit, it would have shipped in less than a week. Hope that helps!
just hot water and a green scrubber cleans it immediately
How long of a soak and scrub are you doing. A few minutes and light scrub or multiple hr soak and vigorous Scrub?
I just did my 50th brew on the 10.5gallon version today. Was nice since I hadn't brewed in almost three months. After every brew, I always do a hot PBW recirculating cleaning. It essentially recirculates for about 45minutes to an hour depending on what I have going on. After this time and draining, I use a non abrasive sponge to wipe the center ring area. No scrubbing ever required to remove the cake. I've also done a beerkeepers friend scrub two times on the bottom for annual cleaning. Never had legitimate scorching ever. I mash at 50% power (240V) and when I ramp up the temps, Im at 75% power. Boil = 85-87% power. Never any black scorching.
Replying to myself, to say that I might also look at going with the Clawhammer 20G starter set, using my propane, and upgrading to the 240v controller/coil next year! Maybe the best of both worlds...
just my 2 cents I've brewed 10 to 15 gallon batches for at least 15 years and I wouldn't even think about it without a pump, your losing efficiency and temperature control without one, but with that said its on a 3 pot herms system not a single vessel, I still wouldn't do it but good luck
Oh, I don't need those because I have a pump/chiller/hoses and such now. I use them all for 5 G batches in my 10G pot on propane. I am just wanting to upgrade to a 10gallon batch capable rig, and my current burner is trash, so I'd need to upgrade that as well if I go to a larger batch.
I just crank the clamp down about as far as it will go. I'm not worried about getting it just right. As far as I'm concerned you can't go too slow.
I have the 6.5. I use it for 3 gallon batches. And I pretty much only use it as a mash tun. I have their pump and I recirculate the wort for the whole mash. It’s usually crystal clear by the end of the mash.
I use a Wilser bag on the malt pipe of the Mash&Boil — doubt that’s any different than doing so on the Foundry. I had the bag fitted to go around the outside of the unit so no grain would go down between the malt pipe and the kettle. I have a built-in pump and a couple pieces of grain would clog it. I also started lifting the pipe 2x during the mash and efficiency went up.
If your current 120V outlets in the garage are GFCI protected, this won't work. Using two 120V circuits on opposite phases to get 240V only works if neither of the circuits is GFCI protected. Current code requires garage outlets to be GFCI.
Dang! They are indeed both GFCI protected. I knew to research having it this way, that it may not work, the combo may end up throwing them both off. I will call it confirmed. Thank you.If your current 120V outlets in the garage are GFCI protected, this won't work. Using two 120V circuits on opposite phases to get 240V only works if neither of the circuits is GFCI protected. Current code requires garage outlets to be GFCI.
Brew on
No real issue w/ grain escaping. Stuck recirculation / slow sparge have been my issues with the malt pipe. I wouldn’t mind keeping the sparge step if the bag in the malt pipe would alleviate these issues…. If not yea I’ll probably just go with the bigger one.
Thanks, might try that Wilser.. looks to be about half the price compared to the brew bag on Anvils website.
