ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

[TeamGotOil]

I received my 10.5 on Sunday. It will, however, be a few weeks or a month till I can try it out as I am trying to acquire the stuff to finish a keeper to put the beer. Not excited to have to bottle that much... lol

 

[Knightshade]

Tested it last night, just making sure the heater worked, only took it up to 140 or so? Also tested new riptide pump, and SpinCycle whirlpool arm. That sucker was spinning for sure. Should have thrown a rubber duckie in there just for S&Gs.

 

[myndflyte]

Got my 10.5 last Friday and just tested it and the heater and pump worked great. I'm also happy that the Hydra chiller just barely fits in there and I just got the Whirly Bird arm delivered so I'm ready to give it a test drive this Friday. And I'll actually be doing the same recipe on my BIAB propane setup at the same time so it'll be interesting to compare the numbers between the two.

 

[mbg]

Got my 10.5 last Friday and just tested it and the heater and pump worked great. I'm also happy that the Hydra chiller just barely fits in there and I just got the Whirly Bird arm delivered so I'm ready to give it a test drive this Friday. And I'll actually be doing the same recipe on my BIAB propane setup at the same time so it'll be interesting to compare the numbers between the two.

I made my own Hydra a few years back for my 15 gal. Blichmann kettle and was disappointed when I found it didn't fit my Foundry so used the OEM SS chiller on my first brew. That encouraged me to modify my tri-coil to fit. Needed one extra turn on each coil. This works great - all the coils are in the wort. I also just bought a SpinCycle to try on my next brew.

You will really enjoy this setup.

 

[myndflyte]

I made my own Hydra a few years back for my 15 gal. Blichmann kettle and was disappointed when I found it didn't fit my Foundry so used the OEM SS chiller on my first brew. That encouraged me to modify my tri-coil to fit. Needed one extra turn on each coil. This works great - all the coils are in the wort. I also just bought a SpinCycle to try on my next brew.

You will really enjoy this setup.

Yeah, I was pretty happy that the Hydra fit in there because everything I saw of the Foundry showed their chiller sticking out of the wort. I'm sure they know thermodynamics better than I do but seemed like it was just wasting part of the chiller.

 

[Zeno]

I ordered the 10.5 and Stainless Fermenter on 7/2 direct from Anvil. Just arrived yesterday. I didn't have to wait to long.
I put it together in about 20 minutes. All good. Next up is a quick leak test and hopefully off and running with a Sculpin Clone this weekend.

 

[cmac62]

I got mine today. Looking forward to the shakedown.

 

[Squidmanoo7]

Just got to say I used mine Sunday and I love that thing planning on brewing again this weekend

 

[mbg]

Yeah, I was pretty happy that the Hydra fit in there because everything I saw of the Foundry showed their chiller sticking out of the wort. I'm sure they know thermodynamics better than I do but seemed like it was just wasting part of the chiller.

Guess they are trying to pull in first time all grainers with a turn key system but that chiller (and especially the hose for it) should be options.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Guess they are trying to pull in first time all grainers with a turn key system but that chiller (and especially the hose for it) should be options.

I am a first time all grainer and the under ~$500 for vessel, recirc, and chiller was no doubt appealing since I had no other pieces of equipment to start with. However, I doubt the 25' SS chiller as an option would actually reduce the price point much anyways. With that being said and after doing my own research into chillers, I have never used the SS chiller it came with because I ended to splurging for the all-in-one tricoil from CUSS brewing. Its absolutely a beast and has made the chilling part a breeze and fast!

 

[Knightshade]

have never used the SS chiller it came with because I ended to splurging for the all-in-one tricoil from CUSS brewing. Its absolutely a beast and has made the chilling part a breeze and fast!

Yeah..pretty much what I didn’t want to hear. I haven’t been too thrilled with the SS chiller that I have when using in a BK.

Don’t have much hope for the Anvil SS one, but I have some serious purchase exhaustion. Having just gotten into brewing and purchased a damn PicoBrew C in late December and ramping that up, to a BK/MT setup while I figured out if I wanted to stay with PB or not, then a kegerator purchase, FC build, actual fermenters vs the PB 5L and just other assorted “stuff” associated with this hobby...

I just want to brew man...I guess I’ll find out if the Anvil chiller is worth a damn tomorrow. I know I’m going to upgrade, just want to push it out a bit..

 

[ClemTiger0408]

Either supplier (wilser or brew bag) will have a custom size for the Foundry, just contact them. I ended up with the Brew Bag for two reasons. The supplier is very local to me and I like the added straps to pull the bag out of the pipe. Look at my post #625 above it's a perfect fit.

If you have a space to hang it I highly recommend purchasing the ratcheting pulley. You can also see it in my post above. Effortlessly pull the heavy malt pipe above the kettle and let it drain.

I've got two brews on my 10.5 and decided to sell my old system.

Question for you! I received my Foundry today along with the Brew Bag and I was just testing things and walking through a simulated brew day before actually brewing.

I noticed with the bag in the bag itself is think enough that the circular plate thing with holes that you use when recirculating the mash doesn’t fit in easily. I had to really push it in which actually made it bend a little for it to fit. Is this your experience? What have you been doing?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Question for you! I received my Foundry today along with the Brew Bag and I was just testing things and walking through a simulated brew day before actually brewing.

I noticed with the bag in the bag itself is think enough that the circular plate thing with holes that you use when recirculating the mash doesn’t fit in easily. I had to really push it in which actually made it bend a little for it to fit. Is this your experience? What have you been doing?

first, I have the wilser bag, not the brew bag that has the reinforcement straps. For the wilser bag, the recirculation disc is certainly a very tight fit for me, but never bent or thought it would bend at all. Im sure the thicker reinforcement straps are the main culprit here? Anyways, I am super careful when inserting and taking out the disc so it doesn't snag/tear the bag. I still might try it without the disc at all since I slowly recirculate and it still shouldn't cause channeling.

 

[Zeno]

I started my Anvil up today and noticed that my Act temp was at 212 when I plugged it in and wouldn’t let me get to mash temp. It jumped all around between 150 and finally settled in 212. Meanwhile it wasn’t warming my water to the 158 I needed for mash. The water was maybe 80 and never got hotter. Anyone else have an issue? Did I do something wrong??

 

[boyurboy]

I started my Anvil up today and noticed that my Act temp was at 212 when I plugged it in and wouldn’t let me get to mash temp. It jumped all around between 150 and finally settled in 212. Meanwhile it wasn’t warming my water to the 158 I needed for mash. The water was maybe 80 and never got hotter. Anyone else have an issue? Did I do something wrong??

I did not have that problem on my test run and cleaning today. However, there is a reset switch/button on the bottom, which maybe would help?

 

[Zeno]

I did not have that problem on my test run and cleaning today. However, there is a reset switch/button on the bottom, which maybe would help?

Thanks. Where is the reset button? Are you talking about the circuit breaker button? Thanks again

 

[boyurboy]

Thanks. Where is the reset button? Are you talking about the circuit breaker button? Thanks again

On the bottom of the unit is a metal pin that protrudes from the bottom to be used in the event a dry-fire of the element causes the system to shutdown. Based on your description, I wondered if that is what may be the issue, but looking at the manual, there would be an error code associated with that. I should have explained better in my first post.

 

[billymeter]

I'm wondering, has anyone attempted to replace the ball valve in this thing? I'm wondering if I can get one of the Blichmann Linear Flow valves to fit in there. I really like that valve on my Boilermaker G2. I'd be interested in doing this to use the Blichmann QC on the valve for the Foundry.

 

[Squidmanoo7]

I'm wondering, has anyone attempted to replace the ball valve in this thing? I'm wondering if I can get one of the Blichmann Linear Flow valves to fit in there. I really like that valve on my Boilermaker G2. I'd be interested in doing this to use the Blichmann QC on the valve for the Foundry.

I’m sure if you have the right thread it will screw right on

 

[billymeter]

I’m sure if you have the right thread it will screw right on

If no one else has tried this, I'll give it a shot and report back.

 

[Aktormedic]

In your picture the power is “off” BTW.

I don’t want this to sound idiotic, but did you increase the power percentage?

I started my Anvil up today and noticed that my Act temp was at 212 when I plugged it in and wouldn’t let me get to mash temp. It jumped all around between 150 and finally settled in 212. Meanwhile it wasn’t warming my water to the 158 I needed for mash. The water was maybe 80 and never got hotter. Anyone else have an issue? Did I do something wrong??

 

[mbg]

Question for you! I received my Foundry today along with the Brew Bag and I was just testing things and walking through a simulated brew day before actually brewing.

I noticed with the bag in the bag itself is think enough that the circular plate thing with holes that you use when recirculating the mash doesn’t fit in easily. I had to really push it in which actually made it bend a little for it to fit. Is this your experience? What have you been doing?

I just lay the plate on top - no need to push it down.

 

[mbg]

I started my Anvil up today and noticed that my Act temp was at 212 when I plugged it in and wouldn’t let me get to mash temp. It jumped all around between 150 and finally settled in 212. Meanwhile it wasn’t warming my water to the 158 I needed for mash. The water was maybe 80 and never got hotter. Anyone else have an issue? Did I do something wrong??

Strange for sure - plus your display doesn't show a power level. Maybe turn the power switch off, unplug it, make sure you are set to the correct voltage, there is a circuit breaker somewhere on the side to check, and as mentioned the reset on the bottom.

On the FB forum I have heard it suggested to take the three screws off the bottom, remove the plate, and inspect for loose wires (loosened during shipping). Concentrate on the thermocouple.

Hope you get it running.

 

[mbg]

I'm wondering, has anyone attempted to replace the ball valve in this thing? I'm wondering if I can get one of the Blichmann Linear Flow valves to fit in there. I really like that valve on my Boilermaker G2. I'd be interested in doing this to use the Blichmann QC on the valve for the Foundry.

On the FB group a couple have purchased an Anvil Kettle Drain Valve and Dremeled and ground the collar of the valve to make it fit. $30 seems on the high side for this valve though.

 

[Knightshade]

On the FB group a couple have purchased an Anvil Kettle Drain Valve and Dremeled and ground the collar of the valve to make it fit. $30 seems on the high side for this valve though.

I've got an Anvil kettle already, but not sure I'm going to necessarily stop using it now that I'm also a Foundry owner.

Was hoping that I might be able to take the ball valve out of a mash tun cooler that I already have, complete with cam lock. Unfortunately, this was not a direct swap as I was anticipating it would be. Is this a similar type of thing? Not too thrilled w/the idea of dremeling a brand new piece of hardware.

Amazing amount of short sight not making the pieces swappable. I get the potential sales of additional hardware as a potential upsell, but I wouldn't have thought the math associated with creating an entirely new line, part #, etc., would have made this a smart business decision.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I've got an Anvil kettle already, but not sure I'm going to necessarily stop using it now that I'm also a Foundry owner.

Was hoping that I might be able to take the ball valve out of a mash tun cooler that I already have, complete with cam lock. Unfortunately, this was not a direct swap as I was anticipating it would be. Is this a similar type of thing? Not too thrilled w/the idea of dremeling a brand new piece of hardware.

Amazing amount of short sight not making the pieces swappable. I get the potential sales of additional hardware as a potential upsell, but I wouldn't have thought the math associated with creating an entirely new line, part #, etc., would have made this a smart business decision.

OK, so up front, I had no equipment prior to purchasing the anvil foundry so Im not in the same position as many who have had other pieces of equipment and other systems prior to the foundry. I totally get the idea of people wanting to use some of their older but "nicer" equipment like QD or cam locks to add to the foundry. However, I will suggest that we rethink whether or not these "improvements" to the system by using other existing equipment will really and truly improve the overall outcome - i.e. the beer OR will positively improve the time-savings which is important to many peeps. The "stock" equipment with recirculating package works quite well. Keep in mind I have the second-generation recirculation disc.

I was a little anxious myself about whether the rotating ball valve with teflon washer would leak. It doesn't. I always fill with water the night before brewing and I test to make sure its seated properly and rotate it with the water in the kettle to ensure its good to go. "finger tight" the teflon washer and it works flawlessly. Even with the white plastic clamps over the hose - it works quite well with no issues at all. Its almost overly simplistic...but it works. I actually think the overall design with the hole in the lid for recirculating is VERY simple in design but very effective and simple.

After over 20 batches on this system - the mods that I think are worth their time/money are: 1) a wilser or brew bag in the malt pipe, 2) a better chiller that is more efficient (the stock one will work but just takes more time), and 3) I now have used the overboard spin cycle/whirlpool arm by brew hardware.com and it was a nice modification because it helps with chilling.

I personally don't think its necessary to drill into the kettle just to be able to use another fitting because the existing/stock equipment really does work well together.

The only thing that I was, and still am, leary of on this system are the legs on the malt pipe which do seem to be a bit "cheesy" IMHO but I am just careful with them.

So rather than simply trying to integrate other equipment someone already had into the system, just ask yourself the simple question of whether or not it would improve the overall end-product i.e. the beer OR perhaps be a time-saver. Time-savings DOES make sense to many people's scenarios, including mine.

Cheers.

 

[mbg]

OK, so up front, I had no equipment prior to purchasing the anvil foundry so Im not in the same position as many who have had other pieces of equipment and other systems prior to the foundry. I totally get the idea of people wanting to use some of their older but "nicer" equipment like QD or cam locks to add to the foundry. However, I will suggest that we rethink whether or not these "improvements" to the system by using other existing equipment will really and truly improve the overall outcome - i.e. the beer OR will positively improve the time-savings which is important to many peeps. The "stock" equipment with recirculating package works quite well. Keep in mind I have the second-generation recirculation disc.

I was a little anxious myself about whether the rotating ball valve with teflon washer would leak. It doesn't. I always fill with water the night before brewing and I test to make sure its seated properly and rotate it with the water in the kettle to ensure its good to go. "finger tight" the teflon washer and it works flawlessly. Even with the white plastic clamps over the hose - it works quite well with no issues at all. Its almost overly simplistic...but it works. I actually think the overall design with the hole in the lid for recirculating is VERY simple in design but very effective and simple.

After over 20 batches on this system - the mods that I think are worth their time/money are: 1) a wilser or brew bag in the malt pipe, 2) a better chiller that is more efficient (the stock one will work but just takes more time), and 3) I now have used the overboard spin cycle/whirlpool arm by brew hardware.com and it was a nice modification because it helps with chilling.

I personally don't think its necessary to drill into the kettle just to be able to use another fitting because the existing/stock equipment really does work well together.

The only thing that I was, and still am, leary of on this system are the legs on the malt pipe which do seem to be a bit "cheesy" IMHO but I am just careful with them.

So rather than simply trying to integrate other equipment someone already had into the system, just ask yourself the simple question of whether or not it would improve the overall end-product i.e. the beer OR perhaps be a time-saver. Time-savings DOES make sense to many people's scenarios, including mine.

Cheers.

@Noob_Brewer Nice summary. Hey, after 20 brews you need to drop "Noob" from your name. Only thing I disagree with is your comments about quick-disconnects. I carried cam-locks over from my previous system and love them. Especially now that I recirculate with the Anvil and purchased the Spin-Cycle. I can swap from recirc arm to S-C in seconds without making a mess. Doesn't help the taste of the brew but does help the brew day go quicker - one of the main reasons I switched to Anvil from a nice kettle-burner-tun system that I made many good beers on.

Mike

 

[myndflyte]

So if you are using a bag in the malt pipe, do you do a double crush like you would for normal BIAB?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

@Noob_Brewer Nice summary. Hey, after 20 brews you need to drop "Noob" from your name. Only thing I disagree with is your comments about quick-disconnects. I carried cam-locks over from my previous system and love them. Especially now that I recirculate with the Anvil and purchased the Spin-Cycle. I can swap from recirc arm to S-C in seconds without making a mess. Doesn't help the taste of the brew but does help the brew day go quicker - one of the main reasons I switched to Anvil from a nice kettle-burner-tun system that I made many good beers on.

Mike

I agree totally in that if you have some method to help make your processes more time-saving/efficient that would be worthwhile. My comment was really only in generalities though because in this long thread and elsewhere, it seems that some people get VERY fixated on modding these all-in-one type of systems. To each his/her own of course as this is a hobby for sure. Was just pointing out that if a modification is made, think of the end goal first to determine if you think the mod is truly necessary. Improving the beer and/or time savings I think are two great reasons to do so. Brew on!

BTW: you liking your spin cycle on the foundry? I definitely do as it helps with chilling for sure but not so sure that it really helps with forming a "cone" at the bottom to keep more gunk out of the fermenter. Perhaps my position of the spin cycle is the culprit. So thats why im asking.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

So if you are using a bag in the malt pipe, do you do a double crush like you would for normal BIAB?

I single pass my grains through my cereal killer with gap set at 0.028". Have a nice/cheap harbor freight corded drill that give high torque so that I can mill slowly and I like the crush its giving.

 

[mbg]

BTW: you liking your spin cycle on the foundry? I definitely do as it helps with chilling for sure but not so sure that it really helps with forming a "cone" at the bottom to keep more gunk out of the fermenter. Perhaps my position of the spin cycle is the culprit. So thats why im asking.

I haven't used it yet in a brew - just cool water. I have a RipTide pump so the arm worked great. My previous system (15 gallon Boilermaker) I made a clone of the hydra tri-coiled chiller. It cooled WAY better if i hand stirred while chilling. That got old so I added a whirlpool arm to the kettle and was able to spend my time doing something else. Hoping the Spin-Cycle will have similar results in enhancing cooling.

 

[Aktormedic]

BTW: you liking your spin cycle on the foundry? I definitely do as it helps with chilling for sure but not so sure that it really helps with forming a "cone" at the bottom to keep more gunk out of the fermenter. Perhaps my position of the spin cycle is the culprit. So thats why im asking.

I have used the spincycle in 3 brews with the 6.5. It shortened my chill time by about 10 min. However, I also bent the hell out of the SS chiller to get more of it in the wort, which also seemed to help. Didn’t seem to do much for the trub, after bending the IC, I think it compacted even less... YMMV.

 

[Knightshade]

@Noob_Brewer Nice I carried cam-locks over from my previous system and love them. Especially now that I recirculate with the Anvil and purchased the Spin-Cycle. I can swap from recirc arm to S-C in seconds without making a mess. Doesn't help the taste of the brew but does help the brew day go quicker - one of the main reasons I switched to Anvil from a nice kettle-burner-tun system that I made many good beers on.

Mike

I added a female NPT camlock fitting to the Foundry valve with 2 layers of Teflon, then 3 layers..maybe 4? Water would seep up and leak up and over the camlock fitting. Thoughts?

 

[BrewingWithFred]

I just got my Foundry last Friday and I'm going to be doing my first brew this weekend. I'm tweaking my recipe on Brewer's Friend and I'm trying to figure out how much base malt to use to hit my target OG. What do you think is a good efficiency to use for a 1st time foundry user? I have 65% plugged in at the moment. I'm using a Wiesler Bag in the grain pipe. I have a barley crusher grain mill and can change the gap accordingly. I am thinking I will probably just use the factory setting (.039") for the 1st brew unless anyone recommends otherwise.

I'm brewing an ESB, ~12lbs grain, mash at 151F for 60 min, recirculating.
Recipie:
https://www.homebrewersassociation....ipe-of-the-week-im-not-bitter-im-thirsty-esb/
Thanks

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I added a female NPT camlock fitting to the Foundry valve with 2 layers of Teflon, then 3 layers..maybe 4? Water would seep up and leak up and over the camlock fitting. Thoughts?

Ive never used this type of fitting before so cannot say for sure. But are you sure leak is coming from the actual cam lock fitting with teflon tape and not the actual bulkhead as it passes through the kettle wall? Id make sure that bulkhead is seated properly and also make sure the teflon washer on the inside isn't over tightened if the leak is coming from there.

 

[Zeno]

I ran into issues and need the groups advice...

I had some initial temperature control issues in my first brew on Saturday. It seemed to sort itself out and I was able to complete the brew day.
I started another brew Sunday and was able to get the wort to mash at 152 degrees. After the mash, it would never get to boil. It would show 212 on the screen, but the temp just held or went down. Nothing I tried worked.

Now I have 7 gallons of wort sitting at around 100 degrees and never boiled. Anything I can do to save this? If I am able to fix the foundry today, can I start a boil of wort that is 24 hrs old? I would hate to toss it.

I plan to call Anvil today and hope for some fixes. I’ll keep everyone posted.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

I just got my Foundry last Friday and I'm going to be doing my first brew this weekend. I'm tweaking my recipe on Brewer's Friend and I'm trying to figure out how much base malt to use to hit my target OG. What do you think is a good efficiency to use for a 1st time foundry user? I have 65% plugged in at the moment. I'm using a Wiesler Bag in the grain pipe. I have a barley crusher grain mill and can change the gap accordingly. I am thinking I will probably just use the factory setting (.039") for the 1st brew unless anyone recommends otherwise.

I'm brewing an ESB, ~12lbs grain, mash at 151F for 60 min, recirculating.
Recipie:
https://www.homebrewersassociation....ipe-of-the-week-im-not-bitter-im-thirsty-esb/
Thanks

What efficiency are you referring to? I use beer smith and have my brewhouse efficiency set to 65% but my mash lauter efficiency consistently hits 75-76%ish. I also have the wilser bag, but have my gap on the mill set to 0.028 and I also do a one gallon sparge.

 

[bleme]

I ran into issues and need the groups advice...

I had some initial temperature control issues in my first brew on Saturday. It seemed to sort itself out and I was able to complete the brew day.
I started another brew Sunday and was able to get the wort to mash at 152 degrees. After the mash, it would never get to boil. It would show 212 on the screen, but the temp just held or went down. Nothing I tried worked.

Now I have 7 gallons of wort sitting at around 100 degrees and never boiled. Anything I can do to save this? If I am able to fix the foundry today, can I start a boil of wort that is 24 hrs old? I would hate to toss it.

I plan to call Anvil today and hope for some fixes. I’ll keep everyone posted.

I've had digital thermometers do this when liquid got inside the probe. This definitely sounds like you got a faulty unit.

You can boil that wort for sure - the sooner the better - but you might end up making a kettle sour as you've followed their technique almost exactly.

 

[BrewingWithFred]

What efficiency are you referring to? I use beer smith and have my brewhouse efficiency set to 65% but my mash lauter efficiency consistently hits 75-76%ish. I also have the wilser bag, but have my gap on the mill set to 0.028 and I also do a one gallon sparge.

I'm using the brewhouse efficiency with the target as ending kettle volume in Brewer's Friend. Given you're getting 65% with a .028" gap, It sounds like I'm going to want to lower my efficiency a bit if I use the default .039" gap. I don't think I have the proper measurement tools to adjust the gap.

 

[Knightshade]

Ive never used this type of fitting before so cannot say for sure. But are you sure leak is coming from the actual cam lock fitting with teflon tape and not the actual bulkhead as it passes through the kettle wall? Id make sure that bulkhead is seated properly and also make sure the teflon washer on the inside isn't over tightened if the leak is coming from there.

It is definitely coming from the camlock fitting. I removed it and put the standard nipple back on and was able to utilize it without incident.