ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

[whovous]

My first brew from my 10.5 AF is carbing and I have some questions about changes prior to the next brew:
1) What size screw protectors should I look for?
2) Is there a way to adapt camlock fittings to the Anvil pump? Those smooth surfaces do not look inviting.
3) How much trouble is it to replace the valve with a camlock butterfly?
4) What is a good stand to get this off of the floor and make the control panel more accessible? How tall is too tall for the stand? I don't really want to have to stand on a stool to get the basket high enough to rest on the ring.

I was very unimpressed by the immersion chiller and am thinking about working my plate chiller into the game. I already have a Chugger pump with camlock fittings, but I'd ratrher use the smaller and quieter Anvil if I can get it fitted.

 

[gibby778]

to all who are using this now, Im curious to see how well this controls the mash temps. The biggest knocks I seen on the mash and boil is the +/- 5degree swings. Looking forward to seeing anyones reviews on how well the Foundry keeps mash temps too.

been using this unit for a year in my garage. summer, fall, winter brews, not problem with stablw temps with this running on 120

 

[bstacy1974]

been using this unit for a year in my garage. summer, fall, winter brews, not problem with stablw temps with this running on 120

What are your winter time garage temps? How long does it take to get to a boil at 50F room temp?

I'm looking at purchasing a Foundry because of the 240v option. But if it will work at 120v, all the better.

 

[whovous]

What size and type are the threads on the foundry spigot?

 

[greyghost]

What size and type are the threads on the foundry spigot?

1/2" Garden hose.Put a couple extra wraps pipe tape on then 1/2' NPS will work. Like camlocks.

 

[whovous]

Camlock is exactly my plan. Thanks for the tip on the tape. So these are not quite NPT threads?

 

[k-os]

Camlock is exactly my plan. Thanks for the tip on the tape. So these are not quite NPT threads?

It uses the Blichmann Quick Connect system.
http://beersmith.com/blog/2017/04/0...-quick-connect-npt-fittings-for-home-brewing/

 

[greyghost]

Camlock is exactly my plan. Thanks for the tip on the tape. So these are not quite NPT threads?

They are the same threads but NPT are tapered. Spigot threads are stright

 

[whovous]

They are the same threads but NPT are tapered. Spigot threads are stright

All I ask is that my newly ordered camlock fits.

 

[Spyderbyte07]

All I ask is that my newly ordered camlock fits.

Mine fit well. I had a very slight leak (an occasional drop) when I only used two or three wraps of Teflon tape but when I cleaned that up and used six or seven wraps it worked great.

 

[whovous]

What do all of you see as the max capacity of this setup? Any problem getting six gallons to the keg(s)? I want to fill a pair of three gallon kegs and get to about 5.5%. Will 65% efficiency get me there? Too brain-dead with this cold to do any math this morning.

 

[LokiM4]

What do all of you see as the max capacity of this setup? Any problem getting six gallons to the keg(s)? I want to fill a pair of three gallon kegs and get to about 5.5%. Will 65% efficiency get me there? Too brain-dead with this cold to do any math this morning.

How much do you loose in fermentation? What size batch would you have to brew in order to get 6 gallons out into the kegs?

Whatever the max capacity is, if less than what you need, you could in theory just top off to get to your necessary fermentation volume that yields a net of 6 gallons kegged.

if it’s capable of that volume without top off then even better.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Have done two brews on the anvil 10.5g with slow trickle recirc and a wilser bag inside the malt pipe. Considering trying ditching the malt-pipe and just using the bag to sit on the bottom without recirc. Provided I shut the power to element OFF I think it should be fine. Anybody here try this? Just trying different hot side processes to see which method I like best. Thanks.

 

[highland_brewer]

Have done two brews on the anvil 10.5g with slow trickle recirc and a wilser bag inside the malt pipe. Considering trying ditching the malt-pipe and just using the bag to sit on the bottom without recirc. Provided I shut the power to element OFF I think it should be fine. Anybody here try this? Just trying different hot side processes to see which method I like best. Thanks.

How are you going to maintain the temp if the element is off?

 

[Noob_Brewer]

How are you going to maintain the temp if the element is off?

It is double walled so simply considering putting a sleeping bag over it and forgetting it kind of like the more basic setups do. (That’s not intended to ding anyone doing this because it’s simple). Simple can still be very effective. I recognize some temp stratification will occur but just considering diff processes is all

 

[highland_brewer]

It is double walled so simply considering putting a sleeping bag over it and forgetting it kind of like the more basic setups do. (That’s not intended to ding anyone doing this because it’s simple). Simple can still be very effective. I recognize some temp stratification will occur but just considering diff processes is all

Sure no problem. Just wondered what your solution was.. worked for BIABer's for years possibly decades!

 

[Bassman2003]

Have done two brews on the anvil 10.5g with slow trickle recirc and a wilser bag inside the malt pipe. Considering trying ditching the malt-pipe and just using the bag to sit on the bottom without recirc. Provided I shut the power to element OFF I think it should be fine. Anybody here try this? Just trying different hot side processes to see which method I like best. Thanks.

Great to try new things but why would a bag be better than the basket? You could use the basket and keep the burner on without a recirc without the need for a sleeping bag. I find the basket easier to clean than a bag. Just hose it off and I also soak it in PBW inside the boil kettle using hot chiller water that I keep.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

Great to try new things but why would a bag be better than the basket? You could use the basket and keep the burner on without a recirc without the need for a sleeping bag. I find the basket easier to clean than a bag. Just hose it off and I also soak it in PBW inside the boil kettle using hot chiller water that I keep.

Appreciate the input for sure. Not necessarily saying bag is better than basket or vice versa. Ive only done two brews on the foundry: both NEIPAs with oats/wheat etc. Both I used the wilser bag inside the malt-pipe with slow recirculation. First brew, grains were milled at 0.036 (a tiny bit of flour but good crush overall) and mash efficiency (according to beer smith) was 68%. Second brew, I milled at 0.034: more flour for sure but husks still looked decent and not shredded: mash efficiency was 53%. I'm thinking I got a "pseudo" stuck mash where the mash got sticky but since I had the bag inside the malt-pipe, the water flowed more between the bag and malt-pipe (because there are no grains there so less resistance) and exited the bottom/bottom side of the malt-pipe. The malt-pipe never overflowed Im sure because there was space between the bag and malt-pipe to flow. So given the tall nature of the vessel, I will certainly open the grain mill up to 0.038ish for my next brew and try again with same setup so that the water can better flow through the grains. I have used rice hulls in both brews too and both brews were identical grain bills.

The alternative that I posed earlier was to ditch the malt-pipe, not recirculate, "set-it and forget it" approach which would allow me to have an even finer grain crush because the full volume of water is in contact with all of grain and wouldn't be worried about stuck mashes. Im sure I will also experiment with ditching the bag and mash in the malt-pipe alone as it was intended to be used. I'm really not married to one method or the other, but one thing that I really liked with the foundry is that it appeared flexible enough for me to experiment with different approaches too. I do agree the attractive part of the anvil foundry is to be able to use the "built-in" malt-pipe and ring stand to let the grains drain which has worked nicely the first two brews where I did sparge. Once I settle on a method that I like, then I'll worry more about cleanup and overall brew day efficiency i.e. total time to brew and clean uo. IMO, both the bag and basket are both super easy to clean out so I won't base my decision on that.

 

[Bassman2003]

Yes, it is a great setup and always good to try things. I started with the bag inside the basket as well but have gone back to just the basket. I do not think there is very much if anything to be gained from using both. As you stated, maybe something lost as the bag allows for liquid to bypass the a lot of the grain bed and still exit the basket.

I have also resigned myself to accept lower efficiency numbers with this type of unit. I do a no sparge approach and am happy to buy a little more grain for the convenience of not sparging. But yes, if you want complete set and forget, dropping a bag in and pulling it out can not get any easier!

 

[bwible]

If this was out when I started in 2006.....I'd have a lot less *stuff* And maybe would have brewed a lot more if i were doing it indoors instead of out in the heat.

I’ve been thinking about this too! How much “stuff” could I get rid of by going to this? Well, for me at least, I don’t think it will be very much I can get rid of. I bought the 6.5 as I primarily make 3 gallon batches. I want to keep my cooler so I can make bigger beers when I want to. Barleywine, Imperial Stout, etc. I guess I’ll end up keeping my brewpot since I will still need to heat sparge water and also to still use for bigger beers with the cooler. The need for fermenters doesn’t change - if anything I would only want more fermenters when brewing gets easier. None of the little stuff goes away either - hydrometer, test jar, spoons, racking canes, etc. If you bottle, you still need bottles. If you keg, you still need kegs.

So what do you really get rid of? Not much that I can think of. But I also had that thought initally.

 

[bwible]

Deleted

 

[WesBrew]

I’ve been thinking about this too! How much “stuff” could I get rid of by going to this? Well, for me at least, I don’t think it will be very much I can get rid of.
So what do you really get rid of? Not much that I can think of. But I also had that thought initally.

sure there are many things accumulated that I'd still have, but could eliminate the large mash tun, 15g kettle, gas burner, pump, Had I started with an all-in-one many of the hoses and expensive fittings and valves wouldn't have been needed. I'd probably still have gotten a plate chiller. with a simple all in one system that is easy to use and move, I definitely would have brewed a lot more.
With the equipment that I already have I decided to just convert it to electric with a controller. almost done and hope to be brewing a lot more often

 

[Dovage]

Anvil updated the Foundry. Just got mine yesterday and they've moved the controller towards the top! Brilliant, can't wait to Brew on this![emoji2][emoji482]

 

[Rb4123]

Anvil updated the Foundry. Just got mine yesterday and they've moved the controller towards the top! Brilliant, can't wait to Brew on this![emoji2][emoji482]View attachment 665835

I just ordered one of these through Northern Brewer last week. How long did it take for yours to leave the warehouse? Did you order directly through Anvil?

 

[Dovage]

I just ordered one of these through Northern Brewer last week. How long did it take for yours to leave the warehouse? Did you order directly through Anvil?

Ordered it through Northern Brewer on the 23rd of January. Got here much faster then they said, was not supposed to ship until middle of this month because of backorders. Was really stoked to see it on my porch yesterday [emoji4].

 

[Dovage]

No notice was giving or update to anything. I live in Wisconsin, not sure if that helped me or not

 

[Rb4123]

That’s good to hear. Hopefully mine miraculously appears on my porch this week. I’m in Southern California so maybe a similar distance timeframe for FedEx or ups.

 

[Bassman2003]

Anvil updated the Foundry. Just got mine yesterday and they've moved the controller towards the top! Brilliant, can't wait to Brew on this![emoji2][emoji482]View attachment 665835

Yes, this kind of sucks for us early adopters! Glad you got the new version and have fun.

 

[Staestc]

Anvil updated the Foundry. Just got mine yesterday and they've moved the controller towards the top! Brilliant, can't wait to Brew on this![emoji2][emoji482]View attachment 665835

That's awesome! (I'm a late adopter, or will be)

 

[harrower]

Anvil updated the Foundry. Just got mine yesterday and they've moved the controller towards the top! Brilliant, can't wait to Brew on this![emoji2][emoji482]View attachment 665835

Nice! I've had mine for 5 months and 12 brews. I wasn't going to electric brew until I could find one with 240v. I do have to get down on on knee to look at the controls. Pic also show an exterior tube to see volume. That's been my biggest problem seeing my level during mash sparge. I usually brew first thing in the morning and I can set my start time and temp so that I can mash in when I wake up. When using a burner and propane, I was always going out to check the temp. The mash holds + or - one degree. My Foundry has cut my brewing day from 5 1/2 hours to 4, with less time checking on it with the temperature controls. I have had up to 16 lb grain in the basket with no problem. I had 240v in my garage (where I brew) and made an extension cord to feed the Anvil plug at 240v. When I get to 200 degrees in the boil, I cut the power settings back to 90% for the hot break. Chiller works great - especially in winter in Ohio. Water is cold. I don't need a bag. When I pump to my fermenter, I run it through a screen to pick up any trube.

 

[mkopec1]

Nice! I've had mine for 5 months and 12 brews. I wasn't going to electric brew until I could find one with 240v. I do have to get down on on knee to look at the controls. Pic also show an exterior tube to see volume. That's been my biggest problem seeing my level during mash sparge. I usually brew first thing in the morning and I can set my start time and temp so that I can mash in when I wake up. When using a burner and propane, I was always going out to check the temp. The mash holds + or - one degree. My Foundry has cut my brewing day from 5 1/2 hours to 4, with less time checking on it with the temperature controls. I have had up to 16 lb grain in the basket with no problem. I had 240v in my garage (where I brew) and made an extension cord to feed the Anvil plug at 240v. When I get to 200 degrees in the boil, I cut the power settings back to 90% for the hot break. Chiller works great - especially in winter in Ohio. Water is cold. I don't need a bag. When I pump to my fermenter, I run it through a screen to pick up any trube.

What is your efficiency if you mind me asking? I want to get one of these but I hear bad things about the basket and overall design leading to bad efficiency.

 

[Noob_Brewer]

What is your efficiency if you mind me asking? I want to get one of these but I hear bad things about the basket and overall design leading to bad efficiency.

Ive done 4 brews on my anvil foundry 10.5gallon. My mash efficiencies were: 68.4%, 53.1%, 76.6%, and 76.9%. If you research all the other all-in-one brands of unit (grandfather, robobrew/brewzilla, mash and boil) you will find similar efficiencies as well as people asking for help regarding low efficiencies. So, when you say "bad things about the basket and overall design leading to bad efficiency" related to the foundry, I would say that people have had efficiency issues with all of these types of units. With that being said, using the foundry, I do think that high 70 to low 80% mash efficiency is achievable and acceptable despite all the little things that people might not like as much with these coffee urn style units. Overall because Im a new brewer, Im 100% positive that my efficiencies have more to do with my human errors and decisions on how to approach the mash and less to do with the design of the anvil foundry. So, Im happy with this purchase.

 

[mkopec1]

Yeah I dont mind anything at or above 70%. So this looks good to me, thanks.

 

[Staestc]

Pic also show an exterior tube to see volume.

What picture shows a volume tube? I'm not seeing that here, on the Anvil site, or on Northern Brewer's site. I must not be understanding something.

 

[szap]

I have a question that may have been answered but I can't find it. Without cam locks how do you go from using the pump to recirculate to sterilizing and using it to transfer wort? Is sterilizing necessary for the transfer? Do you use the clamps and unclamp it from the spigot to put end in star san? I just wonder about continually clamping and unclamping.

 

[whovous]

I've just adapted to cam-locks. All the clamping and unclamping, combined with my mess-making skill-set, was just a recipe for disaster.

 

[szap]

That sounds like what I need to do. What size and where did you get your camlocks

 

[SundayBrewer]

Thinking of getting one. Any reason why you can't ferment in it. It would be easy to add a air lock hole or even open ferment.

 

[szap]

Thinking of getting one. Any reason why you can't ferment in it. It would be easy to add a air lock hole or even open ferment.

I see no reason why you couldn't. The lid has a silicone gasket and there are lock down brackets. The lid already has a hole for the recirculating pump.

 

[Bassman2003]

I do not know if I would want to ferment in all of the gunk that is left over in these all in ones. If you keep the mash sediment in there and add the break & hop material from boiling that is a lot of extra stuff for your beer to sit in during fermentation. It might be convenient. It might be "fine" but it is not how most breweries in the world operate.