SundayBrewer
Well-Known Member
Makes sense. I have some diy ideals to keep some of that junk out and some brewers just dump their wort into the fermenter regardless of how much trub is in there. I try to keep it out.
ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM
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doormatt
New Member
I've been contemplating the 6.5 as a mash tun for 5gal batches. Can someone with the 6.5 confirm my estimated dimensions and thinking? (see image below)
My reason is that I do all of my 5 gal all grain batches (typically around 10lb grain) in a 6 gal cooler at 1.3 ratio mash with plenty of room to spare. I want to keep larger volume sparge process to keep efficiency up. I would plan to use as mash tun only and do full boils in my standard 8 gal kettle.
I would like to understand why it says the 6.5 has only 8lb max capacity.
My reason is that I do all of my 5 gal all grain batches (typically around 10lb grain) in a 6 gal cooler at 1.3 ratio mash with plenty of room to spare. I want to keep larger volume sparge process to keep efficiency up. I would plan to use as mash tun only and do full boils in my standard 8 gal kettle.
I would like to understand why it says the 6.5 has only 8lb max capacity.
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There is a bit of a safety factor in the maximum grain volume that the 6.5 gal Anvil will hold, but 10 lbs is probably very much at the maximum end. Rather than running your process at the maximum or above the design limits, you might be better served with the 10.5 gallon Anvil. This would also give you enough leeway to change your brewing process in the future should you ever want to do so.
As to maximizing your efficiency, Denny Conn and others have demonstrated that you can maximize extraction efficiency from a batch sparge process by producing approximately equal runnings from the mash and sparge steps. Just some food for thought.
As to maximizing your efficiency, Denny Conn and others have demonstrated that you can maximize extraction efficiency from a batch sparge process by producing approximately equal runnings from the mash and sparge steps. Just some food for thought.
McKnuckle
Well-Known Member
The stated limit probably has to do with ensuring that the grain is entirely immersed in mash water while not overflowing the unit.
Even if you fill the entire chamber with water to the max, not all of that water is in the mash pipe where the grain sits. A good deal of it is outside the pipe. Therefore, if you continue loading grain into the pipe, the water level in the entire chamber will rise and eventually overflow. I assume that 8 lbs. is just below that amount.
Even if you fill the entire chamber with water to the max, not all of that water is in the mash pipe where the grain sits. A good deal of it is outside the pipe. Therefore, if you continue loading grain into the pipe, the water level in the entire chamber will rise and eventually overflow. I assume that 8 lbs. is just below that amount.
doormatt
New Member
@Oginme @McKnuckle
I basically agree with everything you said, thanks for feedback.
However, I was hoping someone with a 6.5 could confirm my dimensions so I could back a decision based on data.
I basically agree with everything you said, thanks for feedback.
However, I was hoping someone with a 6.5 could confirm my dimensions so I could back a decision based on data.
I am testing my new 10.5 Foundry system ahead of the first brew day and while everything seems to be working fairly well (no leaks, no sharp edges, etc... just the same grain basket handle problem other people are having) I cannot figure out the delay timer.
Here is what I do:
-Turn on the unit (red button)
-Press + sign to get to 120F (water temp in the unit is 57F)
- Press %Power to go from solid OFF to blinking OFF
-Press - to go from blinking OFF to 100%
At this point, after 100% blinks a few times, a fan switches on and start making noise. I assume because the unit just switched on the element at 100% and is trying to reach my target temp.
I press and hold % Power for a few second until 1H is displayed. I press + until I get to 5H and press % Power again for a few sec. The display returns to my current water temp, the target water temp, and 100% power. Is this what I should be seeing? Or should I see a count down timer to when the water needs to be heated up?
What is that the unit starts heating the water immediately (light on display stays on, fan spins, and water temp on read out keeps climbing) even though I though I had set the timer for 5 hours away....
ANY HELP?
Here is what I do:
-Turn on the unit (red button)
-Press + sign to get to 120F (water temp in the unit is 57F)
- Press %Power to go from solid OFF to blinking OFF
-Press - to go from blinking OFF to 100%
At this point, after 100% blinks a few times, a fan switches on and start making noise. I assume because the unit just switched on the element at 100% and is trying to reach my target temp.
I press and hold % Power for a few second until 1H is displayed. I press + until I get to 5H and press % Power again for a few sec. The display returns to my current water temp, the target water temp, and 100% power. Is this what I should be seeing? Or should I see a count down timer to when the water needs to be heated up?
What is that the unit starts heating the water immediately (light on display stays on, fan spins, and water temp on read out keeps climbing) even though I though I had set the timer for 5 hours away....
ANY HELP?
Don't have one yet, but manual says that after you get to 5H, you momentarily press %PWR or just wait 3 seconds for the time to get locked in. From your description it sounds like you are holding the %PWR down after you get to 5H. Not sure that has anything to do with what you are seeing though, just a thought.
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There is a lag built in so that the controls do no immediately respond to changes being made in temperature, power or delay settings. If you set the temperature and power, the machine will begin heating up fairly quickly. Once you set the delay, it takes a good 30 seconds or so for the delay order to kick in and the power turns off. Of the 21 times I have brewed on my Anvil, I have used the delay for 19 of them and never had a problem with setting the delay and having it work properly.
Did you post this on the Anvil Foundry Facebook group too? If so, I think I already responded to you there...after you set the hours, don't hit power again...after a few seconds it will stay at the set time. After 30 seconds to a minute the fan/heater will shut off. Just got my system too and set it last night for a brew today after work and it took me two tries to figure out.
How was everyone's boil on 120v setting? I just received mine (10.5 gal) and did a test run with 6.5 gal of tap water to make sure everything was working properly with no leaks. Once mine reached 212 I didn't get a boil at 6.5 gal. It was just bubbles coming up from the bottom with little to no any activity on the surface. I contacted anvil to see if this is a normal on the 120v, but just wanted to see if this was everyone else's experience. I'm still waiting on a response from anvil to see if maybe one if the heating elements is not working.
I noticed the ring of bubbles at the bottom of the kettle was not a complete circle. It was more like a C, so maybe one of the heating elements is not coming on since I don't have a complete circle of heating at the bottom?
Edit: Here is a picture during my "boil" of what I am talking about with the heating at the bottom not being a full circle and the water having little to no activity.
I noticed the ring of bubbles at the bottom of the kettle was not a complete circle. It was more like a C, so maybe one of the heating elements is not coming on since I don't have a complete circle of heating at the bottom?
Edit: Here is a picture during my "boil" of what I am talking about with the heating at the bottom not being a full circle and the water having little to no activity.
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That does seem weak. I have not had any issues with 120v and brewing in my garage. I do put a custom lid with a vent on to speed up the rise time and leave it partially on though. I am not looking for a huge boil.
That is what I was thinking. Maybe mine is defective, or the temp probe is not calibrated correctly, so the system won't allow the water to get into a good boil? I stuck a thermometer in there and it read 209 more towards the top of the kettle. I don't have long enough probe and am not sticking my hand down in there to see what it reads closer to the bottom lol
That picture above was taken a good while after it read 212 on the actual temperature, so it should be boiling. As you can see it is pretty calm with just bubbles coming up from the bottom. I'm not looking for, or expecting to get a real vigorous boil, but at least a gentle boil would be excepted on 120v. Enough to disrupt the surface of the water at least. Mine remained very very calm on the surface.
Does your burner make a full circle at the bottom, or is it a C shape like mine in the picture?
arsenic
Active Member
I brewed my first batch today on my new foundry. I started off outside in about 55 degree weather and after two hours of hearing up40 degree water I brought everything inside. It got to 160 degree strike temp about 20 minutes later I think.
I think it took about at hour to get up to boil. I don't remember exactly though. My boil with the lid on was fairly vigorous. After taking the lid off, it was a fairly low simmer. I setup my brewersfriend profile to have a boil evaporation rate of 3 quarts per hour and I hit those numbers right on (only a 30 minute boil on this batch).
I think you're not really supposed to see much more than a simmer on 120 volts. I'm ok with that. Overall pretty happy with the unit. May try going 240 volts with it just to speed things up.
I think it took about at hour to get up to boil. I don't remember exactly though. My boil with the lid on was fairly vigorous. After taking the lid off, it was a fairly low simmer. I setup my brewersfriend profile to have a boil evaporation rate of 3 quarts per hour and I hit those numbers right on (only a 30 minute boil on this batch).
I think you're not really supposed to see much more than a simmer on 120 volts. I'm ok with that. Overall pretty happy with the unit. May try going 240 volts with it just to speed things up.
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I let it run to mimic a 90 minute boil, and I "boiled" off, or at least evaporated about a gallon of water, so the numbers were accurate. My concern is that I'm not even really getting a simmer, which is making me think something is defective. It's just flat surface water as I watched small bubbles rise from the bottom. Hardly could call it a simmer and definitely not a boil.
I'm really looking forward to brewing on this, but don't want to waste time and money if its not working correctly.
On another note, I wonder if using the lid with the center off would allow enough ventilation to boil off DMS, but still trap enough heat to give a good boil?
arsenic
Active Member
I'd definitely shoot an email to them - they seem to be very responsive from what I've seen other people report.
I had to contact them for help as well. The ones digit of the actual temperature doesn't display correctly. Only shot them a message Friday evening so hopefully I'll hear something back early this week.
Curious where you bought from? Every vendor I contact drop ships from Anvil and they are showing ship dates of mid April. Of course I want one now!
arsenic
Active Member
I got mine from my lhbs (that's actually their name as well). Picked it up a week or two ago - they ordered it in for me right as the new top mounted control version was released.
Silver_Is_Money
Larry Sayre, Developer of 'Mash Made Easy'
Water only boils at 212 degrees F. when the atmospheric pressure is that of "ideal" sea level. If it was a high atmospheric pressure day (and you live near sea level) it could conceivably require a bit greater than 212 degrees F. to show visible signs of actually boiling.
I ordered from Anvil on Thursday. It shipped today. Will be here Friday.
I bought mine right off anvil's website a couple weeks ago. I think I got lucky. I noticed it said ships by end of week when I purchased, and it switched to mid march shortly after I bought it. I must have got one if the last ones.
I'll try another round of test boiling with it and see how it goes in case the atmospheric pressure did have something to do with it.
Can anyone confirm that the bottom heating element makes a complete circle, or is it a C shape like in my picture where heat is applied?
I'm still waiting for a response from anvil as I am really excited to brew on this and hope I can get it sorted out!
harrower
Active Member
I bought mine directly from Anvil. Always in stock!
Bent-Brewer
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If you take the 3 screws off the bottom of the unit, you can get a better look at the internals. Off the top of my head, I think there's 3 concentric C shaped elements. On 120V, I believe only a single element will be engaged. I had a weaker boil than what I'm used to on gas, but there was no question it was a boil. Yours looks pretty weak, and I'd suggest sending a video to Anvil Support.
Thank you guys! So it looks like the heating elements are c shaped like bent brewer was saying and seeing the pictures in that link. Hence the c shape of bubbles at the bottom of my kettle, so that is good to know. Now that I have a better understanding of how it works.
I took atmopheric pressure into consideration as mentioned since a cold front was moving in when I tested it out and decided to do another test today.
I filled it up to 6 gallons with hot water from the tap and decided to take a reading before heating it up. My calibrated thermometer read 109.5 F and it was reading 110 actual temp on the foundry, so that seems to be pretty good to me.
This time around I put the lid on and sealed it while it heated to a boil. It was boiling vigorously this time around by the time it got to 209 F. I left the lid on until I saw 212 and then removed it. I had a real good boil going and then dropped to an very very gentle boil as everyone has describe. It was definitely much more than I had the first time around though. The first time around I had a very calm surface water with little bubbles rising. This time around i had fairly large bubbles coming up with a good amount of rippling and rolling on the surface.
Who knows maybe something was loose and reconnected when I was drying it out, or maybe it was the atmospheric pressure, or just the way I heated the water this time? Still waiting to hear from anvil to see what they have to say, but I'm going to give it a shot and brew this Wednesday if I'm getting a decent boil now.
Thanks for all the replies. Turns out my English comprehension is a little lacking, I was holding the power button for 3 seconds at the end of the procedure, instead of pressing quickly, or even better doing nothing. Appreciate being set on the right path.
Thanks for sharing. Can you confirm the amount of water you used to conduct this test?
harrower
Active Member
Biggest problem with electric brewing is to try to do it with 120 Volt. Anvil at 120 volt is no faster than any other 120 volt system. Getting 240 volt to your Anvil really makes the system work faster and better boils and a faster brew day. Also used less electric. Comments about time to reach strike temp and boil at 120 are common for all 120v systems. I would not have switched to Electric from Propane if not for the Anvil System. With the Anvil, you can at least start out at 120v and switch over to 240v down the road.
I just got my 6.5 and I really wanted to brew today. But the thing has an error E3. Says it was run dry. I never ran it dry. Followed the instructions a BUNCH of times to reset with no luck. No matter what I do it just flashes E3. I have a blister on my finger from pushing that nasty reset switch so many times. Still flashes E3. I’m waiting for a response from Anvil support. Not happy.
JCJ
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Im about 60 % through my first brew with my 10.5.....very impressed. Much better than the mash and boil. When it drops one degree below set temp it kicks on and the recirculating pump rocks. Checking temps with a handheld the top of the grain bed was 1 degree off from what the display showed.....I can live with that.......wort smelled incredible after the mash.
I switched to brew in the basement in MI. I hope to have my 240 set up within the next week. I just couldn't wait to do something with it.
Got my first batch in on this and everything went well. Nice gentle boil the whole time, so I'm not sure what freak occurence happened on my initial test boil. Boiled off more than I expected so a little less beer than 5 gal, but oh well. Took plenty of notes, so I'll know how to adjust for next brew day. I hit 87% efficiency on this thing. I can tell this is going be a nice setup. The sample tasted amazing. I can't wait to get it in my keg!
Definitely seal the lid on when heating up strike water. Sped things up real good on the 120v. I also kept it partially covered when getting to a boil and it got boiling in an acceptable amount of time.
Today was a good day
Definitely seal the lid on when heating up strike water. Sped things up real good on the 120v. I also kept it partially covered when getting to a boil and it got boiling in an acceptable amount of time.
Today was a good day
Got my issue with the E3 error resolved. Turns out the wire connection from the reset switch to the board in the system was either not connected at the factory or somehow became disconnected in shipping. They had me take out the three screws holding on the bottom and find that. This is apparently a common problem.
I will stress do not turn this unit on with no water in it - ever - or it will go E3 on you and you will have to reset it. I never did this and don’t know why mine was doing it. But that’s what the E3 error is.
I ran a brew and was happy with the times. I completed an all grain 3 gallon brew with cleanup in 3.5 hours. Not too shabby.
The Anvil pump is awesome, so quiet you can hardly tell it is running. Sure beats manually recirculating with 2 pitchers like I used to do. I have to replace that cheap little restrictor clamp they give you to control the pump flow and get a better valve.
I noticed alot of “junk” also in the boil. Bits of grain that I guess made it through the screen. Funny because it was crystal clear coming out of the pump. I guess the bits escaped the malt pipe when I lifted it and rinsed it. The kettle valve did an awesome job getting the liquid and leaving junk behind at the end. Looked an awful lot like BIAB. I don’t like boiling so many bits of grain. I got decent efficiency, hit my target exactly set at 70%.
Cleaned it with Barkeeper’s friend as they recommend. That also worked great.
I will stress do not turn this unit on with no water in it - ever - or it will go E3 on you and you will have to reset it. I never did this and don’t know why mine was doing it. But that’s what the E3 error is.
I ran a brew and was happy with the times. I completed an all grain 3 gallon brew with cleanup in 3.5 hours. Not too shabby.
The Anvil pump is awesome, so quiet you can hardly tell it is running. Sure beats manually recirculating with 2 pitchers like I used to do. I have to replace that cheap little restrictor clamp they give you to control the pump flow and get a better valve.
I noticed alot of “junk” also in the boil. Bits of grain that I guess made it through the screen. Funny because it was crystal clear coming out of the pump. I guess the bits escaped the malt pipe when I lifted it and rinsed it. The kettle valve did an awesome job getting the liquid and leaving junk behind at the end. Looked an awful lot like BIAB. I don’t like boiling so many bits of grain. I got decent efficiency, hit my target exactly set at 70%.
Cleaned it with Barkeeper’s friend as they recommend. That also worked great.
Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Glad to hear of your first brew on the system went well! Just curious as to how you achieved such a good mash/latter efficiency on the 10.5g system as this is the highest I’ve seen. I know @Oginme has been getting great numbers too but was thinking it was because he’s using the 6.5g system so less vertical height of the cylinder/kettle. Do you mind sharing specifics on your first brew? Ie what was your grain bill like, total grain used in pounds, what was your grain crush at? I’m assuming you got a very good lauter efficiency and had a great sparge to get this high. Thanks in advance
So I looked back over my formula and numbers and I actually hit 72-73% efficiency. I was pretty tired at the end of my brew day when I did my calculations lol. The computer isn't working so I can't use beer smith. Got to do everything the old fashion way lol I can still share my brew day though...
I wanted to do a real simple recipe to get the hang of the new system and test it out. I ended up making a pale ale
Grain bill was:
11# Domestic pale 2 row
.25# 60L Domestic Crystal
11.25 total grain bill with target gravity 1.068 for 5 gal batch. I dont have a mill (going to be getting one soon though!) so I just had the brew store crush them at a pretty standard crush.
Heated 5.25 gal strike water to 158 F and mashed in at 152 F. Mashed for 90 minutes per recipe. Then mashed out and sparge with about 1.75 gallons at 170-175. Total boil volume was about 6 gallons. I did a 90 minute boil and ended with about 5 gallons. About 4.5 - 4.75 made it into carboy from trub. OG was at 1.054.
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Noob_Brewer
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you rocked it still! 72-73% is great for first brew day I think. My first was 68% mash/lauter efficiency but have been improving over the last couple batches myself with the last one landing in at 78.7% mash/lauter efficiency. So still working to dial in system and optimize it as best I can myself. Thanks for sharing.
Absolutely! Those are great results as well. I was very surprised at my first calculation of 85%, but after you mentioned most have not been able to get those results I questioned my math and went back and looked over everything lol. I had a lot of fun brewing on this setup and already can't wait for the next batch. I'm sure over time I'll be able to get my efficiency up as I learn this system more.
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