Another KEEZER build.... w/ pics.

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2puttbird

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Wow ... really great work! Your unit was pointed out to me by user PapaO on the Micro Matic forum because I'm planning to do a conversion on the exact same freezer, and with very similar SWMBO requirements (except that my wire loves beer ... am I lucky or what?)

As a Mechanical Engineer, I must admit that my first concept of completely enclosing this type of chest freezer included air gaps between the freezer walls and the "skin", with vents to allow the warm air to exit out the top and cool air to enter through the bottom ... which would make the unit at least a couple inches bigger, but would definitely help it use less energy (in fact, the "chimneys" would probably be more effective than just counting on random air flow around the unskinned unit).

However, your logic is quite good, and your subsequent positive experience is causing me to rethink that approach. So I thank you for posting all of this excellent information.

Using the oak stair treads is genius ... much less expensive than buying "boards". And I'm embarrassed to say that I hadn't considered just tossing the lid ... so thanks for that idea as well.

The top looks very heavy ... how is the gasket holding up? My current plan is to use 1x6 oak for the collar (mostly to keep the weight down). I'm also going to make a frame for the bottom that can support 2.5" casters (with a skirt around it to hide them) so that I can easily move it when needed (e.g., roll it over to the sink for cleaning) without worrying about damaging the tile floors ... and the casters will raise it up about 4"-5" to put the taps at a good height like yours.

One other question: what was the primary reason for putting the CO2 bottle on the outside?

Anyway, I just wanted to thank you for some inspiration, and let you know how much I liked your keezer. Cheers!
 
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HOP-HEAD

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However, your logic is quite good, and your subsequent positive experience is causing me to rethink that approach.
Still running flawlessly... sure it still hasn't been a true long duration test, but at about a year and a half, she's still purring.


The top looks very heavy ... how is the gasket holding up?
So far so good... you can tell that it's being squashed a bit (so my 1/8" gap around the top where it meets the base isn't perfectly even anymore... actually the gap is now slightly thinner in the front), but it's working fine. And no issues with the hinges holding up what-so-ever.


My current plan is to use 1x6 oak for the collar (mostly to keep the weight down).
6-inches will not likely be enough to squeeze a keg on the hump if that's your goal. It might fit, but it'd be tight. As I did mine, with the insulation on the underside of the lid, if I place a keg on the hump, the top of the keg touches the underside of the lid ever so slightly...


I'm also going to make a frame for the bottom that can support 2.5" casters (with a skirt around it to hide them) so that I can easily move it when needed (e.g., roll it over to the sink for cleaning) without worrying about damaging the tile floors ... and the casters will raise it up about 4"-5" to put the taps at a good height like yours.
This is one of the areas I'd have changed... I guess I could still easily do it, I just probably never will. It slides decent on the carpet, but casters would have been nice.


One other question: what was the primary reason for putting the CO2 bottle on the outside?
I was worried about it taking up space on the inside. In hindsight, it would have fit inside just fine.


Anyway, I just wanted to thank you for some inspiration, and let you know how much I liked your keezer. Cheers!
It's always enjoyable to receive feedback... good and bad, so thanks.


Anything particularly noteworthy?
Casters as mentioned above.

But mostly, if I did it again and could change something, I'd actually make the base larger than the originally freezer. In a sense, extend the width enough that I could have a smaller cabinet door on the front, with shelves for bottled beer and chilled mugs. The added width would be insulated with openings to the original freezer to keep it cold as well. The lid would just span the full width, original freezer and added area, so it all appeared original. The only difference would be that you could access the added side area without opening the top. Someone on here, excuse me for not remembering so I could credit them, did something similar. I don't think they insulated or chilled their additional space, but I would.
 

DogFace_Brewing

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Casters as mentioned above.

But mostly, if I did it again and could change something, I'd actually make the base larger than the originally freezer. In a sense, extend the width enough that I could have a smaller cabinet door on the front, with shelves for bottled beer and chilled mugs. The added width would be insulated with openings to the original freezer to keep it cold as well. The lid would just span the full width, original freezer and added area, so it all appeared original. The only difference would be that you could access the added side area without opening the top. Someone on here, excuse me for not remembering so I could credit them, did something similar. I don't think they insulated or chilled their additional space, but I would.
Now I was thinking the same thing....add a additional 5-6 inches on the side and put and insulated door on it so you can easily grab beer mugs or even store wine bottles in there. Only thing I can't decide is to either make a 6in slim door for the front or a full size door on the side....any thoughts?
 

1Mainebrew

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How did you affix the laminate paneling to the keezer? Liquid nails?
 
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HOP-HEAD

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How did you affix the laminate paneling to the keezer? Liquid nails?
Yes, construction adhesive as noted in this partial quote of an earlier response...

1. Construction adhesive... the entire outline of the panel and then randomly throughout. Held it tight using clamps and a lot of weight, gluing each piece separately and turning the freezer on its side as needed.
Except not Liquid Nails... because, in my opinion, there are a lot of other, better (or at least equal) products out their for much less cost. I used a PL 200 paneling adhesive.
 

crlova2

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What are the inner dimensions of this frigidaire 7.2 cu ft. keezer? Basically I am trying to figure out if it will fit a half barrel in it (front to back wise) and possibly two with a collar. I use half barrels for fermenting and want to use a 7.2 for a fermentation chamber. If anyone knows the inner dimensions I would appreciate that information.
 

2puttbird

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crlova2 said:
What are the inner dimensions of this frigidaire 7.2 cu ft. keezer? Basically I am trying to figure out if it will fit a half barrel in it (front to back wise) and possibly two with a collar. I use half barrels for fermenting and want to use a 7.2 for a fermentation chamber. If anyone knows the inner dimensions I would appreciate that information.
Front to back, about 16 1/4.

Left to right, about 18 3/4 beside the compressor hump, about 29 3/4 overall.
 

bykviking

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So could you run two corny's on the hump and a 1/2bbl in the main? Ignoring the challenge of getting the 1/2bbl over the collar of course.
 

TastyBrew

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I've been browsing this thread looking for ideas, and I'm so glad I found your build. I recently scored a used chest freezer which had already been converted with a double tap tower and drip tray. My plans were also to panel the front and sides and create a furniture look. And like someone else said, I intended to leave air channels between the freezer and panels. But now that I've seen your build, and your confirmation that heat hasn't been a problem so far, I may have to completely rethink my design.
 
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HOP-HEAD

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I've been browsing this thread looking for ideas, and I'm so glad I found your build. I recently scored a used chest freezer which had already been converted with a double tap tower and drip tray. My plans were also to panel the front and sides and create a furniture look. And like someone else said, I intended to leave air channels between the freezer and panels. But now that I've seen your build, and your confirmation that heat hasn't been a problem so far, I may have to completely rethink my design.
Going on two years now without an issue.... ;)
 

TastyBrew

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As I'm doing a quick search online, trying to put together a materials list, I'm not finding the 4'x4' 1/8" veneer. Lowes comes close with 1/4" plywood. And Amazon has several species of 2'x8' veneers.

I'm concerned the 1/4" ply would retain too much heat, and the smaller 2' veneers will require some creative trim work to avoid visible seams.

Do you have another source or suggestions?
 
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HOP-HEAD

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As I'm doing a quick search online, trying to put together a materials list, I'm not finding the 4'x4' 1/8" veneer. Lowes comes close with 1/4" plywood. And Amazon has several species of 2'x8' veneers.

I'm concerned the 1/4" ply would retain too much heat, and the smaller 2' veneers will require some creative trim work to avoid visible seams.

Do you have another source or suggestions?
I believe the material I used may have actually been considered "1/4"... but as with most all lumber, it was not true size. It measured much closer to 1/8" thick.
 

TastyBrew

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I believe the material I used may have actually been considered "1/4"... but as with most all lumber, it was not true size. It measured much closer to 1/8" thick.
I thought that might be the case. Thanks. The 1/4" ply was what I originally planned for panels, but now I'll probably attach it directly as you've done.

On the other hand, some those veneers offer some interesting possibilities for a more exotic looking finish, like mahogany, walnut, or even teak or burled maple.

Decisions, decisions ...
 

D_Ranged_Eskimo

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I think I am going to steal your design of just panelling the freezer instead of building an incasement. I don't have the space to build a large incasement, and this would solve my problems!
 
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HOP-HEAD

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For all the nay-Sayers that questioned my heat transfer logic.... we'll be hitting the 3 year mark in October. Over that time she hasn't been shut-off for more than an hour for an occasional cleaning, and she's still purring like a kitten. :D
 

AZBrewing

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Great feedback. It is awesome to get updates to see how things are still going. Way to think outside the box :)
 
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If you need the look and ventilation why don't you cut different wood types. Place in a planer with plywood underneath and take them down to 1/8 inch thick by 1 inch wide and steam them in a box and weave them and place them in a dado end all way around. They will look sharp. Email me if you want a photo of a cloths basket I made this way or a coffee table for your RV. I used walnut and oak but ash would also work. The verticals are about 1 1/2 inches wide and about 3 inches apart. They do not need to be steamed.
 
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HOP-HEAD

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Great job! Share the recipe on Rootbeer?
Nothing special... I've always taken the quickest route... 2 oz bottle of Old Fashion Homebrew Root Beer base, 8 cups sugar, 4 gallons water, and about 25 psi of Co2... done.

Ultimately, I think something "thicker" and "creamier" would be better, but I've always gotten rave reviews from those that drink it (though I don't drink much of it myself)...
 

mike191

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Nothing special... I've always taken the quickest route... 2 oz bottle of Old Fashion Homebrew Root Beer base, 8 cups sugar, 4 gallons water, and about 25 psi of Co2... done.

Ultimately, I think something "thicker" and "creamier" would be better, but I've always gotten rave reviews from those that drink it (though I don't drink much of it myself)...
Thanks, it's a start and the grand kids do drink rootbeer and orange soda.
 

maseline_98

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A few "final" pics since I realized I never added them to the end of this thread.



Have the plumbing in hand to add a third gas line off the end of the existing regulators to provide a spot to gas a third keg while I'm drinking the other two.... and eventually I'm sure I'll slide a 3rd tap in the middle of the other two as well as another reg.

With the fan I've added now, I can maintain a friggid' serving temp of about 38 with no freezing at the bottom. At 10 psi I've got beautiful pours from both taps and ice cold brew. 12 psi poured well also, but seemed over carbed after I lowered the temp from around 42 or 44.
What stain and poly finish did you use? Also...whay is the distance from the tap hole to the drip tray?
 
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HOP-HEAD

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What stain and poly finish did you use? Also...whay is the distance from the tap hole to the drip tray?
I honestly can't recall which stain I used. I have about a million Varathane, Minwax, etc cans laying around from previous projects and used one of them at the time... not sure which though.

Before staining, I started with a coat of Varathane Pre-Stain Wood Conditioner to help ensure that the stain adhered evenly. I was worried about the thin paneling and various trim pieces all accepting the stain equally. The conditioner also assists in hiding any glue squeeze out.

For the clear, I used a semi-gloss water based Varathane floor sealer. I like the durability of the stuff, and being waterbased, it allows for easy application, quick drying, and no mess clean-up. Love the stuff.

And the tap handle to drip tray distance is 10-1/2" from lowest point of the taps to the top of the stainless tray. I am very happy with the distance, which accommodates pitchers well, and looks appropriate for the scale of the keezer.
 
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