Will definitely give it a listen.You should listen to the recent Brewstrong show on perfect pours. Great info about tube length and pressure to get a smooth pour every time. Basically it talks about the resistance in beer line (@ 2.2 pounds per foot) and how you match length to the CO2 in your beer. Say you have a beer that is carbonated with 14 PSI at 45 degrees serving temp. So, 14 divided by 2.2 equals 6.3 feet to balance. You want a little pressure left over so the beer doesn't just trickle out, so maybe you want 5.5' of beer line to get the beer out. You also need to calculate the rise from the top of the keg to the spigot. Listen to the show and John Palmer will explain it all.
1. Construction adhesive... the entire outline of the panel and then randomly throughout. Held it tight using clamps and a lot of weight, gluing each piece separately and turning the freezer on its side as needed.I have some questions:
- How did you fasten the panels? Construction adhesive? Perimeter only or entire panel?
- The seam between the chest and the lid - which did you fasten it too?
- Would you mind shooting a close-up of the corner detail? How you mated the two rosettes and pilasters from adjoining surfaces is what I'd like to see. Corner to corner or mitre?
A couple pics to help detail it... but yes, the horizontal leaf trim is attached to the collar/lid assembly, which overhangs the main frame of the collar to conceal the rubber seal.Thanks for the explanations.
I should have been clearer on my second query... I meant the trim piece that you used to cover the seam between the body of the freezer and the collar that can be seen in post #5. Which component did you fasten it to? It looks like the collar...
The panels get warm... as they should. If they did not, I'd need to worry. The cooling of the freezer depends on the heat from the inside radiating out through the sides... if the sides were cool, it'd mean that the heat was trapped inside. If they warm when it's running, it's working as it should. I have the exact same freezer for my food... it's no cooler or warmer than this one when running.Have you paid attention at all to any heat build-up on the paneling?
99% glue and/or construction adhesive with a brad or two here and there on the base, and screws, nails, glue and brads for the top/collar. For the most part, assembly consisted of gluing one piece, clamping it... letting it dry, and then glue and clamp another piece. Just be careful with the excess glue, keeping the stain nice and uniform over glue is very difficult.Very nice build!
Just picked up a Holiday on Craig's list and am looking to do something similar but with a tower and a short collar (to gain room for hoses, etc.) and a tower.
Is the wrap pretty much all glued (panels, columns, etc.)?
Yes, construction adhesive. It's held many a full pitcher to date without a bit of flex. I'd love to pull on it to see how strong it really is, but I fear the worst so I won't... not that there's a problem, because there's no wiggle what-so-ever, I'm just a nail/screw guy, so it's tough to get used to. But the bottom line is... it's worked great so far and has held everything it's needed to.Hop-Head,
That is absolutely beautiful. I am planning mine now, and I will be taking a lot of your ideas for the build. Like you, SWMBO insists it look like furniture, which is OK by me because it’s going in the living room.
One question (For now!). How did you attach the drip tray brackets to the front? Construction adhesive?
Again, beautiful work!
Heh... same *exact* thing happened to me. Tap and handle, both.By the way.... if you're a perfectionist like me, order all your tap handles at once. These three all came from the same source and are the exact same model... unfortunately though, the "P" on the front is different with the last one I ordered... and the top of the cheap black handle is flat not rounded like the other two.... while others might not notice, I do every single time I pour.