Another BIAB n00b

[cniemira]

I'm planning to set up a BIAB rig, and am looking for a little equipment advise... specifically, I've saved up for a Boilermaker, and I'm thinking the 15 gallon model should easily accommodate a 6 gallon batch size. But is 15 overkill, and would I be able to do perfectly well with a 10 gallon?

Also, should I bother with a false bottom? If I end up building a RIMS to mash with, then I'm sure I don't, but if I use an open flame, I don't think I want that bag sitting on the bottom of the kettle, right?

Thanks in advance.

 

[McTarnamins]

I'm planning to set up a BIAB rig, and am looking for a little equipment advise... specifically, I've saved up for a Boilermaker, and I'm thinking the 15 gallon model should easily accommodate a 6 gallon batch size. But is 15 overkill, and would I be able to do perfectly well with a 10 gallon?

Also, should I bother with a false bottom? If I end up building a RIMS to mash with, then I'm sure I don't, but if I use an open flame, I don't think I want that bag sitting on the bottom of the kettle, right?

Thanks in advance.

I'll I do is BIAB now. I have an 11 gallon kettle and I can get about 13 lbs max of grain into it. I have a 7 gallon insert with holes that fits into the 11 gallon kettle, this insert is the limiting factor for the amount of grain I can fit. This insert keeps the grain bag off the bottom. I too am planning on converting this to a RIMS or similar so I can keep the mash temp consistent and to help clarify the wort....Currently my biggest issues with the BIAB (aside from the slightly longer mash times). I've done about 7 batches so far and I'll never go back to a Mash Tun...actually I gave my mash tun to someone learning to brew all grain.

I hope this helps.

 

[cniemira]

Absolutely... I actually already own all of the equipment for a RIMS, but it's a matter of how lazy am I going to be in getting the rig assembled. Sounds like it's much more worth while to skip the FB, go directly to the RIMS and not worry about it.

I should probably get the 15g, just to leave myself room to grow. Unless there are disadvantages to having too much head space.

 

[1MadScientist]

I've been brewing for about 4 years now and am starting down the path for my first BIAB. I found a used keggle on craigslist for $30.

We [BIAB] brewers make mashing complicated when it is actually the least time-consuming part of the brewing process and is totally easy.

Spend your thinking and money on the hard bits of brewing - transfers, cleaning, sanitisation etc. IMO, Convert a 15.5 gallon keg and forget the FB.

Richard

 

[kmk1012]

I use a keggle and BIAB exclusively! I have a Brewmometer installed and just stir constantly while heating the mash if needed-no false bottom. After the heat is turned off I stop stirring and continue to drink! I definetly recommend getting a keggle as well, they are super durable and will do anything that you want them to. I weighed the benefits of a false bottom and figured with a BIAB style it would only go for the BLING factor. My opinion may differ from people with false bottoms but, LOTS of great beers are good enough proof for me.

 

[Pick]

Do most of you that BIAB, sparge or do you just pull the bag out and let it drain?

 

[Seven]

I'd recommend the 15-gal kettle because it would allow you to brew 5 to 10 gallon batches. I would hold off on the false bottom for now because it's overkill for keeping the bag off the bottom for BIAB. There are other (cheaper) ways to accomplish this. You can always add the false bottom later if you decide that you need it.

Lastly, I removed the brewmometer from my boilermaker when doing BIAB because the probe would snag the bag. I simply plugged the brewmometer hole with the plug kit and I use a basic stand-alone thermometer when mashing. Works great. If I were buying another Blichmann kettle today I'd get one without the brewmometer to save even more money.

 

[kmk1012]

On my Brewmometer I had my dad fab up a removeable guard to protect the probe. He welded two threaded studs on each side an walla-removeable guard. I just tighten the little stainless nuts finger tight-easy to remove and clean. Looking down on it the guard is basically an ohm shape (squared on the corners to look better).

 

[Patstarr777]

When I did brew in a bag I did it differently. I mashed my grain in a brew kettle put the bag in a plastic pale and pour the hole thing in a bag after an hour. Then all I had to do was pick up the bag/grains the let it drain. I put this back into my kettle an sparged. No worries over a burnt strainer bag.

 

[1MadScientist]

Do most of you that BIAB, sparge or do you just pull the bag out and let it drain?

Pick, In the purist sense, it's a full volume mash with "all the water". What's nice is that you can raise the temperature to 170 degrees to mash out, which gives you your maximum viscosity and best efficiency too.

Richard

 

[Mysticmead]

Do most of you that BIAB, sparge or do you just pull the bag out and let it drain?

I started BIAB with a 40qt pot which is great for 5 gallon batch with no dunking. I'm about 90% complete on my Keggle so I'll be switching to that shortly so I can do 10 gallon BIAB batches.. all are full volume no sparge. Which is the original method of BIAB as conceived by the Aussies.. That isn't to say that dunk sparging a BIAB is wrong, it's just another way of getting the sugars from grain into the kettle.

No matter how you mash as long as you're making beer that you like its all good.

 

[McTarnamins]

I started BIAB with a 40qt pot which is great for 5 gallon batch with no dunking. I'm about 90% complete on my Keggle so I'll be switching to that shortly so I can do 10 gallon BIAB batches.. all are full volume no sparge. Which is the original method of BIAB as conceived by the Aussies.. That isn't to say that dunk sparging a BIAB is wrong, it's just another way of getting the sugars from grain into the kettle.

No matter how you mash as long as you're making beer that you like its all good.

Dunk sparging is brilliant whoever thought of it. Then you don't have to have such a think mash. I'll be 2 dollars that BIAB with a dunk sparge in 20% volume of fresh water will give a better efficience than any other brewing method.

I plan to add a small, direct fired stainless steel sink to my brew rig that can recirculate the fresh water onto the grain. This will really pull out the rest of the sugar and also keep the particulates out of the wort.

 

[McTarnamins]

Pumps are mounted and gas is getting plummed on the automated BIAB system.

 

[McTarnamins]

Quick disconnects and tubing added to my BIAB recirculating rig. Now I just need to wire the temperature controllers.

I'm trying to have as clean and simple design as possible. I love the simplicity of BIAB. I've done 10+ batches of BIAB and have had great results. Not going back, especially with the 3 hour brew days.

Cheers all,

 

[abrdnck]

I have a vegetable steamer which I open up and set on the bottom of my brew pot. It keeps the bag off of the bottom of the pot, and I didn't have to buy any special equipment for it.

I just sampled my first bottle of AG beer (BIAB method) and it is the best beer I've ever made. It is a pretty standard British bitter, about 4.5% ABV, and is simply delicious. I only brew in 2.5 gallon batches, and I am already regretting that decision. I am bottling my rye IPA next weekend, and am very excited about that.

 

[McTarnamins]

My Brew in a Bag recirculating brew stand took it's maiden voyage today. Everything went well and the recirculating wort converted the starches in about 15 minutes less time than before. The wort was much clearer thanks to the recirculation.

Next step is to hook up the thermocouple and temperature controller so I don't have to keep manually turning on/off the burner.

Here are a couple brew day pics. I brewed an American Amber.