Always missing OG after boil

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BansheeRider

Well-Known Member
Joined
Dec 11, 2012
Messages
1,505
Reaction score
101
I consistently achieve my estimated pre-boil gravity but after the boil I always miss the OG by 5 or so points. What am I doing wrong? I'm too lazy to add DME at the end of my boil to reach my desired OG :drunk:
 
Are you boiling off as much water as you think you are?

If your boil off is correct, the starting OG has to be off...

I would make sure that your kettle is thoroughly mixed prior to measuring also..

I have had similar issues prior to putting in a sight gauge and buying a refractometer. The refractometer was a MAJOR improvement with monitoring pre & post boil gravity.
 
Just adjust the boil off rate a little lower than what you have it set to in the software you use. If you have it set to 2 gal/hour and you are only boiling off 1.75 gal/hour then you will be a little low on your OG. If you are consistently 5 points low this is most likely the cause.
 
Just adjust the boil off rate a little lower than what you have it set to in the software you use. If you have it set to 2 gal/hour and you are only boiling off 1.75 gal/hour then you will be a little low on your OG. If you are consistently 5 points low this is most likely the cause.

Good call. I'll see what I have beersmith set as.
 
There's a direct relationship between gravity and volume. If your preboil reading is accurate, and your post-boil gravity is not, then one of the volumes must be wrong. Could be on either end, but incorrect boiloff (and incorrect post boil volume) is a probable explanation. However, if both volumes are correct, then one of the readings is wrong. If you're not thoroughly stirring your wort after sparging before taking your preboil reading, then you may be getting stratification and not getting an accurate reading.
 
Are you boiling off as much water as you think you are?

If your boil off is correct, the starting OG has to be off...

I would make sure that your kettle is thoroughly mixed prior to measuring also..

I have had similar issues prior to putting in a sight gauge and buying a refractometer. The refractometer was a MAJOR improvement with monitoring pre & post boil gravity.

Just adjust the boil off rate a little lower than what you have it set to in the software you use. If you have it set to 2 gal/hour and you are only boiling off 1.75 gal/hour then you will be a little low on your OG. If you are consistently 5 points low this is most likely the cause.

Ok so I boiled off 1.5 gallons in an hour. BeerSmith was set to 1.75gph. I changed it to 1.5 in my profile but the estimated OG for the recipe remains the same?
 
There's a direct relationship between gravity and volume. If your preboil reading is accurate, and your post-boil gravity is not, then one of the volumes must be wrong. Could be on either end, but incorrect boiloff (and incorrect post boil volume) is a probable explanation. However, if both volumes are correct, then one of the readings is wrong. If you're not thoroughly stirring your wort after sparging before taking your preboil reading, then you may be getting stratification and not getting an accurate reading.

I always mix throughly :mug:
 
Ok so I boiled off 1.5 gallons in an hour. BeerSmith was set to 1.75gph. I changed it to 1.5 in my profile but the estimated OG for the recipe remains the same?

Did you save the equipment profile once you changed it & then load it back into the recipe? It may not have updated that change because it is calculated from the equipment profile that you select.
 
Ok so I boiled off 1.5 gallons in an hour. BeerSmith was set to 1.75gph. I changed it to 1.5 in my profile but the estimated OG for the recipe remains the same?

The OG shouldn't change. If you set an OG and then change the boil off, it should adjust the starting volumes/sparge/whatever to compensate and get you to the OG.

EDIT: Just wanted to add this is just opinion, I didn't test and don't know for sure.
 
How are you measuring the post boil OG? Are you measuring after cooling? Using a refractometer or hydrometer? Have you calibrated your measuring equipment?

Ruling out an equipment/measuring/testing error might be a good in addition to any adjustments in BeerSmith.
 
Did you save the equipment profile once you changed it & then load it back into the recipe? It may not have updated that change because it is calculated from the equipment profile that you select.

The OG shouldn't change. If you set an OG and then change the boil off, it should adjust the starting volumes/sparge/whatever to compensate and get you to the OG.

What he said.

Was your post-boil volume bigger than target? Just adjust your batch size and it'll put it in the right place (ie 5.25 instead of 5 or what have you for that extra half gallon). A quarter gallon difference may account for ~4-5 points depending on the beer (particualrly in a high gravity beer).

If your post boil volume was correct, then you were actually short on pre-boil volume, so while the number may have been what you expected, it was giving you misleading information.
 
I have also found brewers friend calculators to be very useful for this...

Once I get the pre boil OG & volume, I go to their website & convert it to a post boil OG & adjust my boil length from there...

To me, the post boil OG is more important than the post boil volume.

Obviously, within reason...

Pretty easy to do on the fly with a refractometer & knowing without a doubt what your boil off per minute rate is.

Running a electric kettle greatly helps too because you can finitely control the heat output much more precisely than with gas. Assuming you are using gas..
 
This is something I wrote up a while ago. Maybe this is your problem.

***
One problem I’ve consistently had over and over again with all-grain brewing is being low on OG. I’d check my pre-boil gravity and I’d calculate out where I’m going to end up, OG-wise, and I’d make my adjustments, but when I did my OG check I was always lower than what I was expecting, and the math just wasn’t adding up. I knew something was amiss, but I couldn’t figure it out until recently.

The short version:
I was doing the math based on my pre-boil SG and trying to extrapolate that to my “into the fermentor” OG, but I wasn’t taking into account the GU’s lost from the boil kettle (BK) deadspace/hoses/chiller, so those missing GU’s always threw my numbers off. To get a more accurate prediction of post-boil OG, then you either have to calculate the GU’s that you’re going to lose to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller or you’ll have to calculate OG for the post-boil volume before you transfer out of the BK.

The long version:

A primer for all-grain newbies:
Calculating estimated original gravity (OG) is one of the biggest differences between extract brewing and all-grain brewing.

With extract brewing, as long as your volumes are correct you’re pretty much guaranteed to be at your OG, unless you didn’t use all of your malt extracts that you were supposed to.

With all-grain brewing, you need to check (or just verify) how much sugar you extracted from the mashing process so you can do something about it before or during the boil if you’re not where you’re supposed to be.

After you finish the mashing step, you need to know two things: your current volume and your current specific gravity (SG). From those two pieces of information, you can calculate your gravity units (GU’s). Knowing how many GU’s you have in the wort, you can then calculate what your final OG should be.

Let's say you just finished your mash and you have 7 gallons of 155° wort pre-boil at an SG of 1.045. Water expands about 2% from room temperature to 155°, so you actually have about 6.85 gallons of wort.

So you take your volume and multiply that against the SG (after dropping the “1.” off of the reading). 1.045 would become 045, or just “45.”

6.85*45 = 308 GU's.

Okay, so you have 308 gravity units. Your wort is always going to have those gravity units unless you remove some of the wort, but you wouldn’t do that. You WILL be removing some of the WATER from the wort, which is only going to concentrate the sugars more. As the sugars get more concentrated, the specific gravity rises at the same rate.

To find out what your OG will be after the boil, you divide the GU’s by the volume of the wort you’re expecting at the end of the boil.

So you do your calculations and say, "well, if I have 308 GU's and I want 5.5 gallons of finished wort...lessee here...308 divided by 5.5 equals 56 which translates into 1.056, and HEY, that's my target OG for this recipe, so I'm golden!"

Then you do a boil for an hour and you evaporate 1 gallon of water and you stop the boil with exactly 6 gallons at boiling temps.

You're going to lose about 4% of the volume when the wort cools, so you have about 5.75 gallons of cooled wort. And let's say you have a very efficient system and lose only .25 gallons of wort to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller, so when all's said and done you have 5.5 gallons of wort in your fermenter just like you wanted. Life is good.

So you go and take an OG of the wort in your carboy and...1.053?! WHAT THE HECK?! WHERE DID THAT THREE POINTS GO?!

But think about that quarter gallon you left behind and the GU's it contained.

308*5.75 (which is the post-boil volume BEFORE transferring to your fermentor) = 1.053, not 1.056 like you were expecting.

So how do you compensate for this problem? By figuring out how many GU's you're going to lose from your BK deadspace/hoses/chiller and adjust accordingly.

On my system, I lose about .75 gallons of wort to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller. I have a 25 gallon pot, so yeah, the deadspace is just going to be bigger.

Anyway...so let's say I have a pre-boil SG of 1.045 at 14.5 gallons (measured), and I know that I'm going to lose .75 gallons of my volume down the drain.

.75 * 45 = 34 GU's that are going to be lost to my system, so I need to deduct that from my GU count.

14.5 measured gallons minus 2% volume for (155°) shrinkage is about 14.2 actual gallons.

14.2 * 45 = 639 GU's.

Minus my 34 GU losses to my system, and I'm looking at 605 GU's that will be going into my carboys.

I'd like 11 gallons of finished wort, so...

605 / 11 = 1.055.

Is that what my recipe is calling for? If it's high, then I add more water or don't boil as long or I just deal with the fact that my mash tun is trying to get me drunk. If it's low, then I boil longer or add some malt extract to up the GU's or just deal with a lower OG. If it's spot on then I celebrate.

Like I said before, the alternate option is to calculate the OG post-boil, but before transferring. Since I know I lose .75 gallons in my transfer, I could take my GU’s (639) and divide that by the sum of the volume I want (11 gallons) plus my transfer loss (.75). 639 divided by 11.75 equals 54.38, which would translate into 1.054. Since we’re rounding numbers in this process, it’s not going to be exact, but close enough for our purposes.
 
This is something I wrote up a while ago. Maybe this is your problem.

***
One problem I’ve consistently had over and over again with all-grain brewing is being low on OG. I’d check my pre-boil gravity and I’d calculate out where I’m going to end up, OG-wise, and I’d make my adjustments, but when I did my OG check I was always lower than what I was expecting, and the math just wasn’t adding up. I knew something was amiss, but I couldn’t figure it out until recently.

The short version:
I was doing the math based on my pre-boil SG and trying to extrapolate that to my “into the fermentor” OG, but I wasn’t taking into account the GU’s lost from the boil kettle (BK) deadspace/hoses/chiller, so those missing GU’s always threw my numbers off. To get a more accurate prediction of post-boil OG, then you either have to calculate the GU’s that you’re going to lose to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller or you’ll have to calculate OG for the post-boil volume before you transfer out of the BK.

The long version:

A primer for all-grain newbies:
Calculating estimated original gravity (OG) is one of the biggest differences between extract brewing and all-grain brewing.

With extract brewing, as long as your volumes are correct you’re pretty much guaranteed to be at your OG, unless you didn’t use all of your malt extracts that you were supposed to.

With all-grain brewing, you need to check (or just verify) how much sugar you extracted from the mashing process so you can do something about it before or during the boil if you’re not where you’re supposed to be.

After you finish the mashing step, you need to know two things: your current volume and your current specific gravity (SG). From those two pieces of information, you can calculate your gravity units (GU’s). Knowing how many GU’s you have in the wort, you can then calculate what your final OG should be.

Let's say you just finished your mash and you have 7 gallons of 155° wort pre-boil at an SG of 1.045. Water expands about 2% from room temperature to 155°, so you actually have about 6.85 gallons of wort.

So you take your volume and multiply that against the SG (after dropping the “1.” off of the reading). 1.045 would become 045, or just “45.”

6.85*45 = 308 GU's.

Okay, so you have 308 gravity units. Your wort is always going to have those gravity units unless you remove some of the wort, but you wouldn’t do that. You WILL be removing some of the WATER from the wort, which is only going to concentrate the sugars more. As the sugars get more concentrated, the specific gravity rises at the same rate.

To find out what your OG will be after the boil, you divide the GU’s by the volume of the wort you’re expecting at the end of the boil.

So you do your calculations and say, "well, if I have 308 GU's and I want 5.5 gallons of finished wort...lessee here...308 divided by 5.5 equals 56 which translates into 1.056, and HEY, that's my target OG for this recipe, so I'm golden!"

Then you do a boil for an hour and you evaporate 1 gallon of water and you stop the boil with exactly 6 gallons at boiling temps.

You're going to lose about 4% of the volume when the wort cools, so you have about 5.75 gallons of cooled wort. And let's say you have a very efficient system and lose only .25 gallons of wort to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller, so when all's said and done you have 5.5 gallons of wort in your fermenter just like you wanted. Life is good.

So you go and take an OG of the wort in your carboy and...1.053?! WHAT THE HECK?! WHERE DID THAT THREE POINTS GO?!

But think about that quarter gallon you left behind and the GU's it contained.

308*5.75 (which is the post-boil volume BEFORE transferring to your fermentor) = 1.053, not 1.056 like you were expecting.

So how do you compensate for this problem? By figuring out how many GU's you're going to lose from your BK deadspace/hoses/chiller and adjust accordingly.

On my system, I lose about .75 gallons of wort to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller. I have a 25 gallon pot, so yeah, the deadspace is just going to be bigger.

Anyway...so let's say I have a pre-boil SG of 1.045 at 14.5 gallons (measured), and I know that I'm going to lose .75 gallons of my volume down the drain.

.75 * 45 = 34 GU's that are going to be lost to my system, so I need to deduct that from my GU count.

14.5 measured gallons minus 2% volume for (155°) shrinkage is about 14.2 actual gallons.

14.2 * 45 = 639 GU's.

Minus my 34 GU losses to my system, and I'm looking at 605 GU's that will be going into my carboys.

I'd like 11 gallons of finished wort, so...

605 / 11 = 1.055.

Is that what my recipe is calling for? If it's high, then I add more water or don't boil as long or I just deal with the fact that my mash tun is trying to get me drunk. If it's low, then I boil longer or add some malt extract to up the GU's or just deal with a lower OG. If it's spot on then I celebrate.

Like I said before, the alternate option is to calculate the OG post-boil, but before transferring. Since I know I lose .75 gallons in my transfer, I could take my GU’s (639) and divide that by the sum of the volume I want (11 gallons) plus my transfer loss (.75). 639 divided by 11.75 equals 54.38, which would translate into 1.054. Since we’re rounding numbers in this process, it’s not going to be exact, but close enough for our purposes.

Thanks for posting this... You just filled in a few gaps in my calculations that I never thought of...

Right click & save...
 
This is something I wrote up a while ago. Maybe this is your problem.

***
One problem I’ve consistently had over and over again with all-grain brewing is being low on OG. I’d check my pre-boil gravity and I’d calculate out where I’m going to end up, OG-wise, and I’d make my adjustments, but when I did my OG check I was always lower than what I was expecting, and the math just wasn’t adding up. I knew something was amiss, but I couldn’t figure it out until recently.

The short version:
I was doing the math based on my pre-boil SG and trying to extrapolate that to my “into the fermentor” OG, but I wasn’t taking into account the GU’s lost from the boil kettle (BK) deadspace/hoses/chiller, so those missing GU’s always threw my numbers off. To get a more accurate prediction of post-boil OG, then you either have to calculate the GU’s that you’re going to lose to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller or you’ll have to calculate OG for the post-boil volume before you transfer out of the BK.

The long version:

A primer for all-grain newbies:
Calculating estimated original gravity (OG) is one of the biggest differences between extract brewing and all-grain brewing.

With extract brewing, as long as your volumes are correct you’re pretty much guaranteed to be at your OG, unless you didn’t use all of your malt extracts that you were supposed to.

With all-grain brewing, you need to check (or just verify) how much sugar you extracted from the mashing process so you can do something about it before or during the boil if you’re not where you’re supposed to be.

After you finish the mashing step, you need to know two things: your current volume and your current specific gravity (SG). From those two pieces of information, you can calculate your gravity units (GU’s). Knowing how many GU’s you have in the wort, you can then calculate what your final OG should be.

Let's say you just finished your mash and you have 7 gallons of 155° wort pre-boil at an SG of 1.045. Water expands about 2% from room temperature to 155°, so you actually have about 6.85 gallons of wort.

So you take your volume and multiply that against the SG (after dropping the “1.” off of the reading). 1.045 would become 045, or just “45.”

6.85*45 = 308 GU's.

Okay, so you have 308 gravity units. Your wort is always going to have those gravity units unless you remove some of the wort, but you wouldn’t do that. You WILL be removing some of the WATER from the wort, which is only going to concentrate the sugars more. As the sugars get more concentrated, the specific gravity rises at the same rate.

To find out what your OG will be after the boil, you divide the GU’s by the volume of the wort you’re expecting at the end of the boil.

So you do your calculations and say, "well, if I have 308 GU's and I want 5.5 gallons of finished wort...lessee here...308 divided by 5.5 equals 56 which translates into 1.056, and HEY, that's my target OG for this recipe, so I'm golden!"

Then you do a boil for an hour and you evaporate 1 gallon of water and you stop the boil with exactly 6 gallons at boiling temps.

You're going to lose about 4% of the volume when the wort cools, so you have about 5.75 gallons of cooled wort. And let's say you have a very efficient system and lose only .25 gallons of wort to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller, so when all's said and done you have 5.5 gallons of wort in your fermenter just like you wanted. Life is good.

So you go and take an OG of the wort in your carboy and...1.053?! WHAT THE HECK?! WHERE DID THAT THREE POINTS GO?!

But think about that quarter gallon you left behind and the GU's it contained.

308*5.75 (which is the post-boil volume BEFORE transferring to your fermentor) = 1.053, not 1.056 like you were expecting.

So how do you compensate for this problem? By figuring out how many GU's you're going to lose from your BK deadspace/hoses/chiller and adjust accordingly.

On my system, I lose about .75 gallons of wort to BK deadspace/hoses/chiller. I have a 25 gallon pot, so yeah, the deadspace is just going to be bigger.

Anyway...so let's say I have a pre-boil SG of 1.045 at 14.5 gallons (measured), and I know that I'm going to lose .75 gallons of my volume down the drain.

.75 * 45 = 34 GU's that are going to be lost to my system, so I need to deduct that from my GU count.

14.5 measured gallons minus 2% volume for (155°) shrinkage is about 14.2 actual gallons.

14.2 * 45 = 639 GU's.

Minus my 34 GU losses to my system, and I'm looking at 605 GU's that will be going into my carboys.

I'd like 11 gallons of finished wort, so...

605 / 11 = 1.055.

Is that what my recipe is calling for? If it's high, then I add more water or don't boil as long or I just deal with the fact that my mash tun is trying to get me drunk. If it's low, then I boil longer or add some malt extract to up the GU's or just deal with a lower OG. If it's spot on then I celebrate.

Like I said before, the alternate option is to calculate the OG post-boil, but before transferring. Since I know I lose .75 gallons in my transfer, I could take my GU’s (639) and divide that by the sum of the volume I want (11 gallons) plus my transfer loss (.75). 639 divided by 11.75 equals 54.38, which would translate into 1.054. Since we’re rounding numbers in this process, it’s not going to be exact, but close enough for our purposes.

My way of dealing with it, because every batch will be different w/ losses to hops, losses to trub, etc, is to only worry about POST-BOIL volume, ie the volume that is left in the kettle after the boil. All my numbers go around that, not fermenter volume.

The problem with BeerSmith is that it breaks down the difference between "mash efficiency" and "brewhouse efficiency". And it can screw up your numbers if the settings aren't perfect.

So, to make things easy, batch size in BeerSmith is your post boil volume, not your fermenter volume. In your equipment profile, set batch volume as post-boil volume, zero out all trub losses, and let experience be your guide as to what to expect there. That way, mash efficiency and brewhouse efficiency become the same thing.

In other words, I know that if I want 5 gallons packed of a beer that's going to be getting dry hops, I know that I'll lose about 0.5 gallons to kettle hops and another 0.5 gallons to yeast cake and dry hops, so I'll base my recipe/settings in BeerSmith around a 6 gallon batch, but base my yeast pitching rate around a 5.5 gallon batch as I lose the first 0.5 gallons to the kettle. But if I'm doing a Scottish Ale, I may only lose an insignificant amount to kettle trub (<0.25 gal) and then the rest to the yeast, and only lose 0.5 gallons total. So it's just knowing what you're going to get. It's something I've found BeerSmith to be lacking in.
 
How are you measuring the post boil OG? Are you measuring after cooling? Using a refractometer or hydrometer? Have you calibrated your measuring equipment?

Ruling out an equipment/measuring/testing error might be a good in addition to any adjustments in BeerSmith.

It is measured after cooling. I always pour 5.5 gallons into the fermentor and I have trub left over in the kettle, maybe 1/4 gallon of trub.
 
Thanks guys. I have a feeling my profile is all messed up in beersmith. I'll go over it later and see if there's any errors. Maybe after I changed the boil off rate the profile didn't save. I didn't check if the strike/sparge volumes changed or not. I thought that would be more along the lines of water-grain ratios and not gravity.
 
The problem with BeerSmith is that it breaks down the difference between "mash efficiency" and "brewhouse efficiency". And it can screw up your numbers if the settings aren't perfect.

So, to make things easy, batch size in BeerSmith is your post boil volume, not your fermenter volume. In your equipment profile, set batch volume as post-boil volume, zero out all trub losses, and let experience be your guide as to what to expect there. That way, mash efficiency and brewhouse efficiency become the same thing.


I think you just solved my BeerSmith problems. I have a feeling this is why I could never get everything dialed in the way I wanted. Thank you, kind sir.
 
I think you just solved my BeerSmith problems. I have a feeling this is why I could never get everything dialed in the way I wanted. Thank you, kind sir.

Of course, if you're more concerned with volume than with gravity, then this approach doesn't help as much. But I'm far more concerned with hitting my right gravity. And this way I'm almost never off by more than a point, two at the most. Especially not on recipes I've brewed before. I can deal with 0.1 or 0.2 gallons over or under, as long as gravity is correct.
 
Of course, if you're more concerned with volume than with gravity, then this approach doesn't help as much. But I'm far more concerned with hitting my right gravity. And this way I'm almost never off by more than a point, two at the most. Especially not on recipes I've brewed before. I can deal with 0.1 or 0.2 gallons over or under, as long as gravity is correct.

Ok I did what you suggested and now I'm only off by 1 point. Thank you for helping me! I think I'm dialed in now.
 
I&#8217;m having a similar problem even after reading LandOfLinccoln&#8217;s post (which was great BTW). For my last two batches, calculating my original gravity based on my pre-boil gravity has been off. This seems to be a recent development for me. I don&#8217;t remember having this issue prior to the previous two batches. They were off before, but close enough that I could attribute it to volumes being off.

On my previous batch, I had an pre-boil gravity of 1.040 with a volume of 9 gallons, and an original gravity of 1.054 with a post boil volume of 5.75 gallons. Based on my post boil volumes, which were more accurate, my pre-boil volume should have been 7.75 gallons. To me that seemed too far off from what I measured as my pre-boil volume.

So for my batch today, I decided to use a scale to calculate the boil off quantity. Prior to starting, I weighed my kettle and it weighed 21 lbs. After the mash, I weighed the kettle and wort. It weighed 102 lbs which meant I had 81 lbs of wort. My measurement of pre-boil volume based on a ruler was 9 gallons. My pre-boil gravity was 1.044. After the boil, when my wort was chilled, I weighed again and I had a weight of 76 lbs, which meant my post boil wort weight was 55 lbs. This amounts to a 3 gallon boil off. Probably not too far off because I had a pretty good boil going. Also, I measured the total volume of what went into the carboy and what was left in the kettle, and it came in at 6 gallons. With a three gallon boil off, it matches my initial measurement volume.

My original gravity reading came in at 1.055. Based on my pre-boil gravity I expected my OG to come in at 1.066, which is exactly what beer smith predicted. If I calculate backwards from my original gravity, my initial volume would have been 7.5 gallons. I know I had more than that based on the weight.

So what could be causing this discrepancy? All my readings were with wort chilled to 60 degrees so it&#8217;s not a temperature adjustment. Is my hydrometer off? I don&#8217;t know what else it could be, but that really doesn&#8217;t make any sense to me.

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
 
Use a refractometer on a cooled, well mixed sample. Continue boiling until you get your desired OG. The volume left will be a factor of your efficiency.
 
Thanks for the reply GreenSpyder. Unfortunately I don't have a refractometer, and it still doesn't explain why my numbers are off. Also, I forgot to say in my first post that I stirred the wort really well before taking both samples.
 
Thanks for the reply GreenSpyder. Unfortunately I don't have a refractometer, and it still doesn't explain why my numbers are off. Also, I forgot to say in my first post that I stirred the wort really well before taking both samples.

If you're serious about continuing to brew, spend the $45 for a refractometer. It won't break like a hydrometer, and only uses about 6 drops to make a calculation on spec grav. A hydrometer needs WAY more, and it's faster to cool down a few drops.

Don't worry about 5 points. Most calculators aren't that accurate, and only give generalized numbers to shoot for. They can't take into account your techniques, brewing equipment, climate or what type of bug just flew into your brew kettle.

Make this batch a few times, take good notes, improve on your techniques, and just be consistent. That's the best anyone can hope for.

Happy Brewing!!!
 
Back
Top