Aluminum brew pot?
- Thread starter yewtah-brewha
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masterfool101
Well-Known Member
In fact, you probably don't want the black oxide layer, as that is more likely to leach. Ideally, you get the slightly brownish oxide, which will stick to the pot better. Boiling just water in the pot will give you this . . . as will simply putting it in the oven at 250 for an hour or so.
In the long run, it shouldn't matter. Most expert opinions I've seen agree that you'll get exponentially more aluminum in your system by using common deodorants than by drinking or eating anything that came out of an aluminum pot.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
The oven method was an epic fail for. Boiling water provided the oxide layer.
Also, aluminum is present in anti-perspirants, not deodorants.
shelly_belly
Someday After A While
A lady at work told me that you can detoxify your body of aluminum by wearing a foil hat while bathing.
Why would you need to use oxyclean or other deep cleaners on your brew pot? I just use hot water and a washcloth or papertowels. I got lazy after one brew and left the brew pot long enough to get some mold in it and hot water and just a tiny bit of soap took care of that. Also, why do people think SS lasts any longer than aluminum? A thick aluminum pot will last just as long as a SS one.
And, to the OP: if you're going to be doing 5 gallon batches with full boils I would get at least a 10 gallon pot. My preboil volume is 7.25 gallons for a 60 minute boil to leave 5.5 gallons in the kettle. I would definitely have uncontrollable and constant boilovers if I tried to do that in a 7.5 gallon pot.
And, to the OP: if you're going to be doing 5 gallon batches with full boils I would get at least a 10 gallon pot. My preboil volume is 7.25 gallons for a 60 minute boil to leave 5.5 gallons in the kettle. I would definitely have uncontrollable and constant boilovers if I tried to do that in a 7.5 gallon pot.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
I think you need to connect a 220v line to the foil hat in order for it to actually be effective though.
masterfool101
Well-Known Member
Boiling water is better.
And you are absolutely correct . . . I misstated deodorant when I meant anti-persperant . . .
If you treat them with tender loving care. Kind of goes without saying, I guess - what homebrewer wouldn't?
GrogNerd
mean old man
Santa is bringing me that same $49 turkey fryer kit.
I think the problem would come if you tried to add a valve to it. think the torque from turning the handle on the valve would bend the crap out of the aluminum.
sure it would do the same to cheap, thin stainless
I think the problem would come if you tried to add a valve to it. think the torque from turning the handle on the valve would bend the crap out of the aluminum.
sure it would do the same to cheap, thin stainless
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
It's not like you need to treat aluminum pots/kettles with kid gloves. Just don't go flinging it around like a wrecking ball.
A robust aluminum kettle will last just as long as a good stainless one. Provided you don't have an accident with either.
I have a 5 gal aluminum pot and want a larger capacity for larger boils, and I'll be looking for another aluminum pot as it's lighter and heats/cools faster.
As for cleaning it I use the kitchen sponge with the green scrubby side then run it through the short cycle in the dishwasher.
As for cleaning it I use the kitchen sponge with the green scrubby side then run it through the short cycle in the dishwasher.
It's not like you need to treat aluminum pots/kettles with kid gloves. Just don't go flinging it around like a wrecking ball.
That's what I meant. I guess it didn't come across....
Certainly the extra head space would be nice, but my boil kettle is a 7.75 gal quarter-keg, and that works fine for 5-gallon batches. My starting volume is around 6.75 gallons and I don't get boil overs (if i'm careful, plus I use anti-foam). If the 7.5 gallon is what you can afford it should work just fine.
FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
I was all for Aluminum pots, i had the IMUSA 8 gallon pot from Walmart and it worked well for many months.
But this last weekend i went to heat up my strike water, and realized there was a god damn crack in the bottom of the thing...once it heated up the metal was expanding or something and there was a pinhole size hole leaking water out of the bottom!
I was super mad needless to say as it ruined the brew day, luckily before beer was actually being made though.
But it was only a $20 pot, so i dont know.
If you want to do it OP, get the IMUSA pot for $21 bucks from Walmart and get a good Bayou burner off Amazon for $40.
But this last weekend i went to heat up my strike water, and realized there was a god damn crack in the bottom of the thing...once it heated up the metal was expanding or something and there was a pinhole size hole leaking water out of the bottom!
I was super mad needless to say as it ruined the brew day, luckily before beer was actually being made though.
But it was only a $20 pot, so i dont know.
If you want to do it OP, get the IMUSA pot for $21 bucks from Walmart and get a good Bayou burner off Amazon for $40.
I have an 8 gallon pot and that is plenty big for my boils. You just have to watch it.(or you don't if you use something like fermcap-s) You can boil over a 1 gallon starter in a 4 gallon pot if you don't watch it.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
IMO, thin aluminum is the source, and cause, of all the issues people have using aluminum kettles/pots. Getting something 2mm thick, or thinner, is a BAD idea (IMO/IME). Get a Winware pot (4mm thick) and you won't have issues.
Just be sure to also order the lid to go with it. At <$50 for a 40 qt (that's 10 gallons), it's a really good price. Plus, if you have an Amazon Prime membership, you can get it with free 2 day shipping. :rockin:
FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
IMO, thin aluminum is the source, and cause, of all the issues people have using aluminum kettles/pots. Getting something 2mm thick, or thinner, is a BAD idea (IMO/IME). Get a Winware pot (4mm thick) and you won't have issues.
Ive been wanting a reason to just get a stainless pot anyways, so this was it. When AIHB has 9 gallon single welded port SS pots for $70, i didnt want to bother with aluminum again.
Even if i got a cheap winware for $50 its gonna cost me way more than $20 to port it after you get drill bits, compression fittings etc.
I have one of those 9gal single welds. Great kettle, I love it. It's much higher quality than you'd expect considering most places call them "economy" kettles.
mindcrime
Well-Known Member
This.It's not like you need to treat aluminum pots/kettles with kid gloves. Just don't go flinging it around like a wrecking ball.
I have a 10 gal tamale steamer I've been using as a BK for like... 5 years? It's beat to absolute hell, dented, bottom is scorched on the bottom and totally warped, lid only kinda fits at this point, has a beautiful oxide layer that stands up to washing no problem. Cost me 15 bucks new. I've lusted after a good SS BK for a long time, but keep finding things that would make better beer for less money, and until that's not the case, beat up tamale steamer soldiers on!
Baseline: I personally HIGHLY recommend a cheap aluminum BK for ALL beginning brewers, who should be spending their intro cash on more important things, like thermometers, temp control, starter prep gear, etc etc etc.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
The thicker aluminum pots (converted into kettles) won't have their bottoms warped from using on propane burners. The cheap ones will (as you have found out). IMO, pay ~$50 for a good 10 gallon aluminum pot, plus another ~$15 for the matching lid to start. You can add the ball valve later on if you're tight on funds. Also, you can use a cheap hole saw to go through aluminum, where good stainless will just laugh at your attempt (keggles).
I use Barkeeper's Friend to get the stuck-on stuff off the bottom after brewing, but I don't think you can use that on aluminum. What can you use on aluminum for that?
Hot water and a wash cloth.
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
You're doing something wrong if you have stuff stuck on the bottom so hard that you have to use BKF to clean it. I occasionally use it to give a more polished clean on the keggle, but it's not required by any stretch. Also, with the aluminum oxide layer, it should be difficult to get anything stuck on it.
Gunpalmer45
Member
Marine Corps (and other services) have been using 10 gallon and 15 gallon aluminum pots (10 pots, 15 pots) since Vietnam era. Heated with M2 burner units (more BTU than your standard propane cooker) or Babington retrofit airtronic burners (enough to heat a 2000 sqft home). I don't ever recall anyone having any .... twitch....twitch...twitch... symptoms from eating food prepared in the ... twitch...twitch... aluminum pots. We made everything from starches to tomato based dishes. No worries about using aluminum. That's a bigger fallacy than Al Gore's "An Inconvenient Truth". Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation). Semper Fi Jarheads!
Golddiggie
Well-Known Member
GrogNerd
mean old man
thank you for your service, and, as a squid, I'm more than happy to give y'all a boat ride to whatever beach needs taking, even soften it up a bit, make you a cushy landing... but I'll ask ya to please don't call me "jarhead"
Bet they weren't using the flimsy ones like those sold at wally mart.
you've never had KP/cranked in a galley, have ya?
kombat
Well-Known Member
I use the 7.5 gallon aluminum pot that came with my burner (the WalMart turkey fryer kit) as my HLT, and I use a real stainless 15-gallon kettle as my boil kettle.
GrogNerd
mean old man
have you added any hardware to 30qt, like a ball-valve? i have the same one, but I'm thinking it's too thin
kombat
Well-Known Member
Nope, I just use it as-is. I measure out the strike water I'll need (using a wooden dowel with notches cut into it indicating gallon measurements, calibrated for the aluminum pot), heat it up to 170° F or so, then pour it all into my mash tun. I stir it around until the temp drops to dough-in temp, then dough in the grist, stir more until it drops to my mash temp, and seal it up.
With 20 minutes to go in the mash, I measure out my sparge water in the same 7.5 gallon aluminum pot and begin heating it. I drain my first runnings into my boil kettle, then empty the aluminum pot into the mash tun and stir again. While waiting the 10 minutes for the batch sparge to settle a new grain bed, I start heating the first runnings over the burner in the boil kettle. At this point, I'm done with the aluminum pot, and don't even need to clean it (the only thing in it was water).
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