It's probalby oxidized by mere air exposure or the steam from your first oxidation boil. I don't think you necessarily have to see a thick black oxide layer for it to be oxidized. That's like pipe cake, it builds up over time.
In fact, you probably don't want the black oxide layer, as that is more likely to leach. Ideally, you get the slightly brownish oxide, which will stick to the pot better. Boiling just water in the pot will give you this . . . as will simply putting it in the oven at 250 for an hour or so.
In the long run, it shouldn't matter. Most expert opinions I've seen agree that you'll get exponentially more aluminum in your system by using common deodorants than by drinking or eating anything that came out of an aluminum pot.
Also, aluminum is present in anti-perspirants, not deodorants.
A lady at work told me that you can detoxify your body of aluminum by wearing a foil hat while bathing.
The oven method was an epic fail for. Boiling water provided the oxide layer.
Also, aluminum is present in anti-perspirants, not deodorants.
why do people think SS lasts any longer than aluminum? A thick aluminum pot will last just as long as a SS one.
If you treat them with tender loving care. Kind of goes without saying, I guess - what homebrewer wouldn't?
It's not like you need to treat aluminum pots/kettles with kid gloves. Just don't go flinging it around like a wrecking ball.A robust aluminum kettle will last just as long as a good stainless one. Provided you don't have an accident with either.
And, to the OP: if you're going to be doing 5 gallon batches with full boils I would get at least a 10 gallon pot. My preboil volume is 7.25 gallons for a 60 minute boil to leave 5.5 gallons in the kettle. I would definitely have uncontrollable and constant boilovers if I tried to do that in a 7.5 gallon pot.
I was all for Aluminum pots, i had the IMUSA 8 gallon pot from Walmart and it worked well for many months.
But this last weekend i went to heat up my strike water, and realized there was a god damn crack in the bottom of the thing...once it heated up the metal was expanding or something and there was a pinhole size hole leaking water out of the bottom!
I was super mad needless to say as it ruined the brew day, luckily before beer was actually being made though.
But it was only a $20 pot, so i dont know.
If you want to do it OP, get the IMUSA pot for $21 bucks from Walmart and get a good Bayou burner off Amazon for $40.
IMO, thin aluminum is the source, and cause, of all the issues people have using aluminum kettles/pots. Getting something 2mm thick, or thinner, is a BAD idea (IMO/IME). Get a Winware pot (4mm thick) and you won't have issues.Just be sure to also order the lid to go with it. At <$50 for a 40 qt (that's 10 gallons), it's a really good price. Plus, if you have an Amazon Prime membership, you can get it with free 2 day shipping. :rockin:
Ive been wanting a reason to just get a stainless pot anyways, so this was it. When AIHB has 9 gallon single welded port SS pots for $70, i didnt want to bother with aluminum again.
Even if i got a cheap winware for $50 its gonna cost me way more than $20 to port it after you get drill bits, compression fittings etc.
This.It's not like you need to treat aluminum pots/kettles with kid gloves. Just don't go flinging it around like a wrecking ball.A robust aluminum kettle will last just as long as a good stainless one. Provided you don't have an accident with either.
This.
I have a 10 gal tamale steamer I've been using as a BK for like... 5 years? It's beat to absolute hell, dented, bottom is scorched on the bottom and totally warped, lid only kinda fits at this point, has a beautiful oxide layer that stands up to washing no problem. Cost me 15 bucks new. I've lusted after a good SS BK for a long time, but keep finding things that would make better beer for less money, and until that's not the case, beat up tamale steamer soldiers on!
Baseline: I personally HIGHLY recommend a cheap aluminum BK for ALL beginning brewers, who should be spending their intro cash on more important things, like thermometers, temp control, starter prep gear, etc etc etc.
I use Barkeeper's Friend to get the stuck-on stuff off the bottom after brewing, but I don't think you can use that on aluminum. What can you use on aluminum for that?
I use Barkeeper's Friend to get the stuck-on stuff off the bottom after brewing, but I don't think you can use that on aluminum. What can you use on aluminum for that?
Marine Corps (and other services) have been using 10 gallon and 15 gallon aluminum pots (10 pots, 15 pots) since Vietnam era. Heated with M2 burner units (more BTU than your standard propane cooker) or Babington retrofit airtronic burners (enough to heat a 2000 sqft home). I don't ever recall anyone having any .... twitch....twitch...twitch... symptoms from eating food prepared in the ... twitch...twitch... aluminum pots. We made everything from starches to tomato based dishes. No worries about using aluminum. That's a bigger fallacy than Al Gore's "An Inconvenient Truth". Just my $.02 (adjusted for inflation). Semper Fi Jarheads!
Semper Fi Jarheads!
Bet they weren't using the flimsy ones like those sold at wally mart.![]()
I use the 7.5 gallon aluminum pot that came with my burner (the WalMart turkey fryer kit) as my HLT, and I use a real stainless 15-gallon kettle as my boil kettle.
have you added any hardware to 30qt, like a ball-valve? i have the same one, but I'm thinking it's too thin