All I get is foam...

[SpanishCastleAle]

Well I didn't add hose length just let the co2 bleed out a bit but also only at 2 psi.

If you got that much head pouring at 2 psi then I would say it look like it's pretty overcarbed. It looks nice though, little bit of lacing going on there.

I can't remember where I read it but it allegedly takes 18-21 days for a 'set and forget' keg to reach equilibrium (for a typical carb level and temp). It will be carbed up enough to be good well before that. And I would swear some kegs carb up faster than others but I haven't actually tested it.

 

[Yooper]

Yooper, is this how you typically carb your kegged beer, 12 PSI for 7 to 10 days (refridgerated) or do you prefer another method?

What would you do with the Dead Guy clone?

I do just that- 12 psi in my 40 degree fridge. As SpanishCastleAle said, it's carbed up (drinkable) by then, but it's better in 2-3 weeks.

 

[DoubleFisted]

If you got that much head pouring at 2 psi then I would say it look like it's pretty overcarbed. It looks nice though, little bit of lacing going on there.

I can't remember where I read it but it allegedly takes 18-21 days for a 'set and forget' keg to reach equilibrium (for a typical carb level and temp). It will be carbed up enough to be good well before that. And I would swear some kegs carb up faster than others but I haven't actually tested it.

I am not familiar with the term lacing?

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[SpanishCastleAle]

Lacing refers to the foam that sticks to the sides of the glass.

 

[Bobby_M]

I don't think it was ever determined if the original poster actually used 3/16" INSIDE DIAMETER tubing when he replaced his lines. If it's 1/4", that's the problem.

 

[DoubleFisted]

I believe it's quarter inch. Doesn't say I'll go to the hardware store now and replace it. Thanks Bobby

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[bruin_ale]

oh damn, good call Bobby.. 1/4" line has waaaay less restriction than 3/16". I think you need about 20-25ft of 1/4" line to balance a system. To give you an idea, 1/4 lines are commonly used in bars where the kegs are stored in a separate room.

 

[DoubleFisted]

Yeah I believe it is probably 1/4" line because I had a guy that works at pepsi give me some of his supply line. Just waiting to get off work so I can replace the hose yet again, and have some delicious beer for the holiday.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

Good call by Bobby. Several people specified 3/16" but we never verified what you were actually using.

When you cut the new line, go long imo. You can always 'make' foam and you can always cut it shorter. Harder to 'unmake' foam or extend a line.

 

[Flomaster]

here is the handy dandy CO2 carbing chart.

http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

I keep my keg at 38 °F so if I wanted to have 2.5 I'd put my psi to 11.25 or there abouts

in theory if I have my beer at 38 °F and psi at 11ish line length should only be controlling the speed of my pour. am I correct in this thinking?

-=Jason=-

 

[Brandonovich]

12 pounds of pressure is far too much for serving pressure. I force carb the same way you do, let it sit for an hour at 40 lbs, and vent the pressure. After that, I never go over about 5 lbs for serving pressure. If I set it at 12, it would be foam all the time. My lines are about 3 feet long and no problems. Back off your serving pressure, and you can be drinking an hour after you carbonate.

 

[SpanishCastleAle]

here is the handy dandy CO2 carbing chart.

http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

I keep my keg at 38 °F so if I wanted to have 2.5 I'd put my psi to 11.25 or there abouts

in theory if I have my beer at 38 °F and psi at 11ish line length should only be controlling the speed of my pour. am I correct in this thinking?

-=Jason=-

Yep, that's pretty much it. You're just trying to establish the required length to get good pours (using whatever line/faucet you use) when the keg is at the pressure needed to achieve the desired carb level. That's why the restaurants use bigger line, the beer has to go farther to get to the tap and they don't want to increase the pressure (the beer would overcarb) so they use bigger ID line.

EDIT:
Brandovich,
I know you're trying to help but your post is pretty much all wrong. Your lines are too short. You want to set the pressure such that the beer is carbed (and remains so) at whatever temp your keg is at (at about 40* F that's about 12 psi). Then you choose a line length and ID to give you good pours at that pressure.

 

[Flomaster]

I just scored some bev-seal ultra 235 3/16" barrier tubing and think 12' should be good but don't want to cut it short and have a wasted piece, on the same note I don't want to cut it to long and waste tubing.

by properly carbing my beer and balancing my system I don't think I'll have any problems using the tubing at 10-12'


-=Jason=-

 

[Bobby_M]

12 pounds of pressure is far too much for serving pressure. I force carb the same way you do, let it sit for an hour at 40 lbs, and vent the pressure. After that, I never go over about 5 lbs for serving pressure. If I set it at 12, it would be foam all the time. My lines are about 3 feet long and no problems. Back off your serving pressure, and you can be drinking an hour after you carbonate.

For the record, I don't endorse this at all for those who want a long term hands off approach. Balanced lines are the way. But that's just my opinion.

 

[DoubleFisted]

here is the handy dandy CO2 carbing chart.

http://www.kegerators.com/carbonation-table.php

I keep my keg at 38 °F so if I wanted to have 2.5 I'd put my psi to 11.25 or there abouts

in theory if I have my beer at 38 °F and psi at 11ish line length should only be controlling the speed of my pour. am I correct in this thinking?

-=Jason=-

Can Someone help me understand this table better? Of course the left side table is the temp of the beer, but what is the top end psi? Does that mean if I have an ale at 40 degrees my regulator should read in the green?

 

[Flomaster]

Can Someone help me understand this table better? Of course the left side table is the temp of the beer, but what is the top end psi? Does that mean if I have an ale at 40 degrees my regulator should read in the green?

Yes that's. Exactly it.

The colored chart at the bottom. Tells you what the colors mean

-=Jason=-

 

[Flomaster]

HERE IS A LITTLE BYO ARITICLE THAT EXPLAINS THE PROCESS
http://www.byo.com/stories/techniqu...-balancing-your-draft-system-advanced-brewing

yes you can server at a lower psi, but you beer will not be at the proper volume for that style.

I myself will be getting a secondary regulators for each tap so I can dial in the exact carb volume for each beer.

-=Jason=-

 

[DoubleFisted]

with time and money my friend I will be doing the same, I need regulators for everything Ive found out.

 

[DoubleFisted]

Wow so I just read through that and I became even more confused! Haha I will just have to try trial and error with the length of my hose!

 

[Yooper]

Wow so I just read through that and I became even more confused! Haha I will just have to try trial and error with the length of my hose!

Actually, the line is the easiest part. Once you set your fridge temp, it doesn't change. Then, pick your carb level- that won't change either. In my case, it's 40 degrees at 12 psi.

Anybody that tells you to change to 'serving pressure' is full of it. The beer will never equalize, and always be on the verge of undercarbing unless it's turned back up. If you only have one keg, that's not a huge deal. But I have three taps and several more kegs ready. If I had to climb into my kegerator and change each one just to pour a beer, I'd quit kegging!

The lines- well, if you start with say 12' lines, there will be no problem. The worst that can happen is the pour is a bit slow. It might take 5 seconds to pour a beer instead of 3 seconds. Most people find that 8-10 foot lines (for beer) work best in the 11-13 psi area.

 

[repomanz]

my understanding of balancing a keg system, you must use the formula to balance the line length. Your beer should be properly carb'd to style and the variable in this is the line length to get a proper pour and flow rate.

I'm currently tossing up the idea between those epoxy swizzle sticks (in the dip tube of the keg) or making some kind of modular beer line system to I can roughly gauge in the proper line length for style and co2 volume of beer in my kegs.